DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk |
6.75 $ /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk 6.75 $ /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side |
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= purl from right side, knit from wrong side |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Golden Years Skirt |
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Knitted skirt in DROPS BabyMerino and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down. Sizes XS - XXL.
DROPS 237-26 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN: See diagram A.1. INCREASE TIP: Increase alternately at the beginning and end of the stockinette stitch section. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked as follows on the next round: AT BEGINNING OF STOCKINETTE STITCH SECTION: Slip the yarn over onto the right needle as if to knit, place it twisted back on the left needle, knit the front loop (stitch twists to the right). No hole. AT END OF STOCKINETTE STITCH SECTION: Knit the back loop (stitch twists to the left). No hole. Work the new stitches in stockinette stitch. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- SKIRT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. So the skirt is higher at the back, you work an elevation. A twisted cord is worked for the row of holes in the waistband. WAIST-BAND: Cast on 112-128-136-152-160-176 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). Knit 1 round then work rib as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and knit 1. When the rib measures 3 cm = 1⅛", work a row of holes for the cord as follows: Knit 1, * 1 yarn over, purl 2 together, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, 1 yarn over, purl 2 together, knit 1. Continue the rib (knit 2, purl 2) until the piece measures 6 cm = 2⅜" from the cast on edge. Knit 1 round and increase 8-4-8-4-8-4 stitches evenly spaced = 120-132-144-156-168-180 stitches. SKIRT: Change to circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round = mid-back. Work A.1 10-11-12-13-14-15 times on the round. AT THE SAME TIME after the first round of pattern, work an elevation as follows: Work 8-9-10-11-12-13 stitches from the right side, turn, tighten the strand, work 16-18-20-22-24-26 stitches from the wrong side. Turn, tighten the strand and work 24-27-30-33-36-39 stitches from the right side, turn, tighten the strand, work 32-36-40-44-48-52 stitches from the wrong side. Turn, tighten the strand and work 40-45-50-55-60-65 stitches from the right side, turn, tighten the strand, work 48-54-60-66-72-78 stitches from the wrong side. Turn, tighten the strand and work 56-63-70-77-84-91 stitches from the right side, turn, tighten the strand, work 64-72-80-88-96-104 stitches from the wrong side. Turn, tighten the strand and work 72-81-90-99-108-117 stitches from the right side, turn, tighten the strand, work 80-90-100-110-120-130 stitches from the wrong side. Turn, tighten the strand and work 88-99-110-121-132-143 stitches from the right side, turn, tighten the strand, work 96-108-120-132-144-156 stitches from the wrong side. Turn, tighten the strand and work to mid-back. The skirt is now 5 cm = 2" higher mid-back. Continue the pattern in the round with 10 stitches in stockinette stitch/2 garter stitches. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 2-3-3-3-4-4 cm = ¾"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1⅛"-1½"-1½" after the rib, mid-front, increase 1 stitch at the beginning of each stockinette stitch section – read INCREASE TIP (10-11-12-13-14-15 stitches increased) = 130-143-156-169-182-195 stitches. When the piece measures 9-10-10-11-12-12 cm = 3½"-4"-4"-4⅜"-4¾"-4¾" after the rib, mid-front, increase 1 stitch at the end of each stockinette stitch section - remember INCREASE TIP = 140-154-168-182-196-210 stitches. When the piece measures 16-17-17-19-20-20 cm = 6¼"-6¾"-6¾"-7½"-8"-8" after the rib, mid-front, increase 1 stitch at the beginning of each stockinette stitch section = 150-165-180-195-210-225 stitches. When the piece measures 23-24-25-27-28-28 cm = 9"-9½"-9¾"-10⅝"-11"-11" after the rib, mid-front, increase 1 stitch at the end of each stockinette stitch section = 160-176-192-208-224-240 stitches. When the piece measures 33-34-36-38-40-40 cm = 13"-13⅜"-14¼"-15"-15¾"-15¾" after the rib, mid-front, increase 5-6-6-7-7-8 stitches by increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every other stockinette stitch section = 165-182-198-215-231-248 stitches. When the piece measures 47-48-50-52-54-54 cm = 18½"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-21¼" after the rib mid-front, increase 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches by increasing 1 stitch at the end of the other stockinette stitch section so there are 15 stitches in each section = 170-187-204-221-238-255 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm = 27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-29½"-30¾"-31½" from the cast-on edge mid-front. On the next round increase 1 stitch in each stockinette stitch section as before = 180-198-216-234-252-270 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Work as follows from mid-back: Purl 1, * knit 4, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left, knit 4 and purl 1. Continue this rib for 2 cm = ¾". Bind off a little loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl. The skirt measures approx. 74-76-78-80-82-84 cm = 29⅛"-29½"-30¾"-31½"-32¼"-33" from the cast-on edge mid-front. TWISTED CORD: Cut 3 strands of Baby Merino, each 4-4-4½-4½-5-5 metres in length. Twist the strands together until they begin to resist, fold double and the cord will continue to twist. Tie a knot in each end. Start mid-front on the inside of the skirt and thread the cord up and down through the holes in the waistband. Tie the ends together on the inside of the skirt. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (13)
Åsa wrote:
Hej! Är nybörjare så jag behöver lite hjälp. Om jag byter från 2 trådar grupp A (stickstrl 3) till 1 tråd grupp C (stickstrl 5) hur ska jag då tänka angående stickstrl? Jag brukar behöva gå upp en strl i andra beskrivningar. Med ”original garnet” hade jag använt 5,5+4,5. Ska jag göra det med tex ”Paris” också?
09.04.2024 - 17:55DROPS Design answered:
Hej Åsa, ja det stemmer, lav en strikkeprøve med pind 5,5 og se om du får samme strikkefasthed som står i opskriften du skal strikke (rigtig strikkefasthed for at størrelsen i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften)
10.04.2024 - 09:44Unni With wrote:
Hei, Jeg lurer på om dere også har oppskriften til toppen som er vist sammen med skjørtet? Hva heter den i så fall?
06.09.2023 - 09:41DROPS Design answered:
Hej Unni, det er ikke en strikkeopskrift: Her finder du vores T-shirts: Dame - T-skjorter
13.09.2023 - 15:33Vittoria wrote:
Si può lavorare solo son il filato baby merino senza il Kid Silk? se si quanto baby merino devo prendere? Grazie
31.08.2023 - 11:09DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Vittoria, può raddoppiare la quantità di Baby Merino, ma tenga presente che il capo avrà una struttura completamente diversa una volta terminato e anche il suo peso e la sua vesitibilità saranno diverse. Buon lavoro!
01.09.2023 - 08:37Roberta wrote:
Non riesco a capire come fare i ferri accorciati per l’alzata dietro e al contempo aumentare 1 m in tutti i moduli a magia rasata. Grazie
16.02.2023 - 10:57DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Roberta, per gli aumenti deve seguire le indicazioni riportate nel paragrafo "suggerimento per gli aumenti". Buon lavoro!
09.03.2023 - 23:02Veronica wrote:
If a pattern states to use Drops Air, can I use Drops Alpaca Silk brushed instead, and get the same result?
12.01.2023 - 16:45DROPS Design answered:
Hi Veronica, Drops Air and Drops Alpaca Brushed Silk are both from yarn group C. All our yarns are spun to a standard thickness so yarns from the same yarn group can replace each other without a problem. Happy crafting!
13.01.2023 - 08:04Sienne wrote:
Hello, regarding the instructions for right after the elevation, when it says to "continue the pattern in the round with 10 st in stockinette/2 garter st", does it mean to do it for every row, or every *second* row as it is on the A.1 diagram?
30.12.2022 - 16:46DROPS Design answered:
Dear Sienne, this means to work exactly as shown in A.1 - this means (1 stitch in garter stitch (worked alternately K and P), 10 sts in stocking st (K every round) and 1 stitch in garter stitch (worked alternately K and P)). Happy knitting!
02.01.2023 - 13:25Lola wrote:
Los aumentos de las secciones de punto jersey suponen aumentos en la anchura de dichas secciones? Gracias por vuestra atención
28.12.2022 - 11:57DROPS Design answered:
Hola Lola, sí, las secciones de punto jersey se volverán más anchas a medida que se aumente.
07.01.2023 - 19:17Lola wrote:
Entiendo que al ir aumentando 1punto antes de cada sección de punto de jersey, estas secciones van aumentando en anchura progresivamente, verdad?.. Gracias por vuestra atención
28.12.2022 - 09:15DROPS Design answered:
Hola Lola, sí, las secciones de punto jersey se volverán más anchas a medida que se aumente.
07.01.2023 - 19:17Unni Mossestad wrote:
Hvilket annet garn kan jeg bruke i stedet for Baby Merino til å strikke dette skjørtet? Vennlig hilsen Unni.
19.12.2022 - 13:18DROPS Design answered:
Hej Unni, du kan bruge alle vore garnkvaliteter fra Garngruppe A (hvor du strikker med 2 tråde) eller så kan du bruge 1 tråd fra garngruppe C. Prøv vores omregner. Vælg BabyMerino (som du vil bytte ud) vælg antal gram i din størrelse og vælg 1 tråd, hvis det kun er den du vil bytte.
20.12.2022 - 09:09Beatriz wrote:
Para elegir la talla correcta, quisiera saber qué medida debo tomar. La medida que se muestra en la cintura debe ser mayor que el punto más ancho en mi cuerpo? Cómo puedo estar segura de que podré ponerme la falda? Gracias
25.11.2022 - 16:54DROPS Design answered:
Hola Beatriz, para elegir la talla correcta tomas la medida por la parte más ancha del cuerpo, sean las caderas o la cintura. Si la cintura queda demasiada ancha se podría ajustar insertando una cinta elástica.
27.11.2022 - 16:13