DROPS Children 49 · Lots of new kid designs!
Product image DROPS Merino Extra Fine yarn
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
 100% Wool
from 4.40 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 52.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Jumpers
  4. DROPS
  5. 221
  6. 12

Swept Away

Knitted sweater in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with saddle shoulders, double neck, cables and balloon sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

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Highlight Size:
DROPS 221-12

#sweptawaysweater

DROPS Design: Pattern me-219
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-104-112-122-134-146 cm = 37¾"-41"-44"-48"-52¾"-57⅜"
Full length: 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-700-800-850-950 g color 13, denim blue

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Women Jumpersassembly free cable double neck maritime round neck saddle shoulder set-in / knitted in sleeves top down
related pattern
related pattern
Product image DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Merino Extra Fine
 100% Wool
from 4.40 $ /50g
DROPS Needles & Hooks
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 52.80$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side. Find your size in the diagram (applies to A.3).
A.1 and A.2 are worked on the shoulders and sleeves.
A.3 is worked on the front and back pieces.
A.4 and A.5 are worked on the neck, if you choose Alternative-2.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 104 stitches), and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 32) = 3.3. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, work together approx. each 2nd and 3rd stitch.
INCREASE TIP-1 (for shoulders, sleeves and yoke):
FROM THE RIGHT SIDE.
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand from behind between 2 stitches from the previous round/row, knit the front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand from front between 2 stitches from the previous round/row, knit the back loop.

FROM THE WRONG SIDE:
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand from front between 2 stitches from the previous round/row, purl the back loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand from behind between 2 stitches from the previous round/row, purl the front loop.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker-thread sits between these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches) slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:

THERE ARE 2 ALTERNATIVES NECKS IN THE PATTERN.
The sweater in the picture is worked bottom up, the sweater in the pattern-text is worked top down to give a neater fit for the neck/sleeves.
ALTERNATIVE-1:
This alternative has an easier neck to work.
Start by working a double neck in the round, then continue in the round increasing for the saddle shoulders (the neck is the same front and back).
When the increases for the shoulders are finished, increase for the sleeves and then the yoke.
The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves; the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.
ALTERNATIVE-2:
This alternative has the neck shown in the picture.
The piece is started back and forth, from mid-front, and stitches are cast on each side to form the neckline at the same time as stitches are increased for the saddle shoulders.
When the increases for the shoulders are finished, increase for the sleeves and then the yoke.
The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.
When the sweater is finished, stitches are knitted up for the double neck.

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ALTERNATIVE-1 – START HERE:

DOUBLE NECK:
Read SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE above.
Cast on 104-108-112-116-120-124 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and Merino Extra Fine. Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 7 cm = 2¾".
When the rib is finished, knit 1 round and increase 32-36-40-40-40-36 stitches evenly spaced– read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 136-144-152-156-160-160 stitches. Knit 1 round (yarn overs knitted twisted). Then work the yoke.

YOKE – ALTERNATIVE-1:
Change to circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7. Insert 1 marker after the first 49-51-53-54-55-55 stitches (= mid-front) – the yoke is measured from this marker!
In addition insert 4 new markers without working the stitches and each marker inserted between 2 stitches. These markers are used when increasing for the saddle shoulders and should have a different color from the marker mid-front.
Marker-1: Insert before the first stitch on the round (= right back shoulder).
Marker 2: Count 30 stitches from marker-1 (= shoulder), insert marker-2 before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count 38-42-46-48-50-50 stitches from marker-2 (= front piece), insert marker-3 before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count 30 stitches from marker-3 (= shoulder), insert marker-4 before the next stitch.
There are 38-42-46-48-50-50 stitches left after marker-4 (= back piece).
Allow these 4 markers to follow your work onwards.
On the next round start the pattern and start increasing for the shoulders as described below. Read both sections before continuing!

PATTERN – ALTERNATIVE-1:
Work A.1 over the 30 shoulder stitches between markers 1 and 2 and between markers 3 and 4. Work A.3 over the 38-42-46-48-50-50 stitches on the front and back pieces (see marks in the diagram for your size). NOTE: As you increase for the shoulders, work the increased stitches on the front/back pieces into pattern A.3 until there is room for a complete repeat in width, then work new increased stitches in stockinette stitch (in XXL and XXXL work all the increased stitches in stockinette stitch as A.3 starts with a complete repeat). Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! A.1 is repeated in height until the increases for the shoulders are finished, A.3 is repeated in height to finished length.

INCREASES FOR SADDLE SHOULDERS – ALTERNATIVE-1:
AT THE SAME TIME, on the same round as the start of the pattern, increase 4 stitches for the shoulders as follows:
Increase BEFORE markers 3 and 1, and AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-1. You only increase on the front and back pieces; the number of shoulder stitches remains the same.
Increase every round a total of 18 times in all sizes = 208-216-224-228-232-232 stitches.
After the last increase the piece measures 7 cm = 2¾" in all sizes – measured from the marker mid-front. Go to SLEEVE INCREASES below.

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ALTERNATIVE-2 – START HERE:

YOKE:
Read SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE above.
Cast on 100-104-108-110-112-112 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 and DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Insert 4 markers without working the stitches and each marker inserted between 2 stitches. These markers are used when increasing for the saddle shoulders.
Marker-1: Insert after the first stitch on the round (= left front of neck, when garment is worn).
Marker 2: Count 30 stitches from marker-1 (= shoulder), insert marker-2 before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count 38-42-46-48-50-50 stitches from marker-2 (= back piece), insert marker-3 before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count 30 stitches from marker-3 (= shoulder), insert marker-4 before the next stitch.
There is 1 stitch left after marker-4 (= right front of neck).
Allow these 4 markers to follow your work onwards.
On the first row start the pattern and start increasing for the shoulder. In addition, cast on stitches on each side for the neckline. Read all sections before continuing!

PATTERN – ALTERNATIVE-2:
Work A.4 over the first stitch (choose diagram for your size), A.1 over the 30 shoulder stitches between markers 1 and 2, A.3 over the 38-42-46-48-50-50 stitches on the back piece between markers 2 and 3 (see marks in the diagram for your size), work A.1 over the 30 shoulder stitches between markers 3 and 4, A.5 over the last stitch (choose diagram for your size).
NOTE: As you increase for the shoulders, work the increased stitches on the front piece as shown into A.4 and A.5. On the back piece work the stitches into A.3 until there is room for a complete repeat in width, then work new increased stitches in stockinette stitch (in XXL and XXXL work all the increased stitches in stockinette stitch as A.3 starts with a complete repeat). Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! A.1 is repeated in height until the increases for the shoulders are finished, A.3 is repeated in height to finished length.
When A.4 and A.5 are finished, work A.3 over these 50 pattern stitches (A.4/A.5 and the cast-on stitches mid-front) to finished length.

INCREASES FOR SADDLE SHOULDERS – ALTERNATIVE-2:
At the same time, on the first row (right side) increase 4 stitches for the shoulders as follows:
From the right side, increase BEFORE markers 3 and 1, and AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-1.
From the wrong side, increase BEFORE markers 4 and 2, and AFTER markers 3 and 1.
You only increase on the front and back pieces; the number of shoulder stitches remains the same. Continue like this, back and forth increasing on every row a total of 18 times in all sizes.

NECKLINE – ALTERNATIVE-2:
When you have worked 3 rows of pattern, cast on new stitches at the end of each row for the neckline (the first time stitches are cast on is at the end of the third row with pattern = right side).
Cast on 1 stitch at the end of each row 4 times on each side, then 2 stitches at the end of each row 3 times on each side.
At the end of row 17 (right side) cast on 16-20-24-26-28-28 stitches (mid-front of neck). Do not turn but work the last round in A.4/A.5 (= last increase for the saddle shoulders) over all stitches as follows:
Work the last round in A.4, increase before marker-1, work A.1 as before over the next 30 stitches, increase after marker-2, work stockinette stitch and A.3 as before over the back piece between markers 2 and 3, increase before marker-3, work A.1 as before over the next 30 stitches, increase after marker-4, work the last round in A.5, then knit the 16-20-24-26-28-28 cast-on stitches mid-front. Cut the strand. There are 208-216-224-228-232-232 stitches and the piece measures 7 cm = 2¾" in all sizes – measured from the cast-on edge mid-back. Now begin the next round before marker-1. Go to SLEEVE INCREASES below.

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ALTERNATIVE-1 AND ALTERNATIVE-2 CONTINUE FROM HERE FOLLOWING THE SAME PATTERN.

SLEEVE INCREASES:
Work pattern as follows: Work A.2 between markers 1 and 2 and between markers 3 and 4, work A.3 as before between markers 2 and 3 and between markers 4 and 1 (make sure you continue on the correct row in the diagrams), the other stitches are worked in stockinette stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase 4 stitches for the sleeves as follows:
Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
You only increase on the sleeves; the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. Work the increased stitches as shown in A.2.
Increase every 2nd round a total of 2-2-2-2-2-3 times = 216-224-232-236-240-244 stitches.
The piece measures approx. 9 cm = 3½" in all sizes – measured from marker (alternative-1), cast-on edge mid-back (alternative-2). Now increase for the yoke.

YOKE INCREASES:
Move the 4 markers so they sit in the outermost stitch on each side of the front and back pieces (not between 2 stitches). There are 34-34-34-34-34-36 stitches between the markers on each sleeve.
On the next round increase 8 stitches for the yoke, increasing both before and after each marker-stitch – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
You are now increasing on both the front and back pieces and on the sleeves. The increased stitches are worked in stockinette stitch on the front/back piece and in A.2 on the sleeves until there are 38 stitches in A.2, then further increases are worked in stockinette stitch.
Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 13-15-17-21-24-27 times = 320-344-368-404-432-460 stitches.
Continue without further increases until the piece measures 19-21-23-26-28-30 cm = 7½"-8¼"-9"-10¼"-11"-11¾" - measured from marker (alternative-1), cast-on edge mid-back (alternative-2).
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
S, M, L and XL: Start the round 1-1-2-2 stitches before the first marker-stitch.
XXL: Start the round just before the first marker-stitch.
XXXL: Start the round 1 stitch after the first marker-stitch.
ALL SIZES:
Place the first 64-68-74-82-84-88 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-10-12 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 96-104-110-120-132-142 stitches as before, place the next 64-68-74-82-84-88 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-10-12 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 96-104-110-120-132-142 stitches as before. Cut the strand. The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 208-224-240-260-284-308 stitches.
Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-10-12 cast-on stitches under each sleeve. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when decreasing in the sides.
Start the round by one marker-thread and continue in the round as before with A.3 over the middle 50 stitches on the front and back pieces and the other stitches in stockinette stitch.
When the body measures 4 cm = 1½" from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker-threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 4 cm = 1½" a total of 3 times in each side = 196-212-228-248-272-296 stitches.
Work until the body measures 16-16-16-15-15-15 cm = 6¼"-6¼"-6¼"-6"-6"-6" from the division. There is 3 cm = 1⅛" left to finished length – try the sweater on and work to desired length.
Knit 1 round and increase 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 206-222-240-260-286-312 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 3 cm = 1⅛". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP!
The sweater measures approx. 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 64-68-74-82-84-88 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4.5 MM = US 7 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 72-76-84-92-94-100 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve; allow the thread to follow your work onwards – it is used when increasing under the sleeve.
Continue in the round with A.2 as before over the middle 38 stitches – the other stitches are worked in stockinette stitch.
When the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1⅛" increase 2 stitches under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 3 cm = 1⅛" a total of 5-5-4-4-3-3 times = 82-86-92-100-100-106 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 33-31-30-27-26-24 cm = 13"-12¼"-11¾"-10⅝"-10¼"-9½" from the division (There is approx. 9 cm = 3½" left; try the sweater on and work to desired length).
Knit 1 round and decrease 36-38-42-46-46-50 stitches evenly spaced = 46-48-50-54-54-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 MM = US 4 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 9 cm = 3½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 42-40-39-36-35-33 cm = 16½"-15¾"-15¼"-14¼"-13¾"-13" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

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DOUBLE NECK – ALTERNATIVE-1:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

DOUBLE NECK – ALTERNATIVE-2:
Start mid-back and knit up from the right side 136-144-152-156-160-160 stitches around the neck with short circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1). On the first round decrease the number of stitches to 104-108-112-116-120-124 stitches. When the neck measures 7 cm = 2¾", bind off a little loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 22.11.2022
This pattern has been revised; it has now 2 alternatives for the neck.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

knit = knit
purl = purl
place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2 , knit 2 from cable needle = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2 , knit 2 from cable needle
place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2 , knit 2 from cable needle = place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2 , knit 2 from cable needle
place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3 , knit 3 from cable needle = place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3 , knit 3 from cable needle
place 3 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3 , knit 3 from cable needle = place 3 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3 , knit 3 from cable needle
knitting direction = knitting direction
increases for saddle shoulders = increases for saddle shoulders
sleeve increases = sleeve increases
yoke increases = yoke increases
at end of this row (after A.5), cast on stitches mid-front as explained in the text = at end of this row (after A.5), cast on stitches mid-front as explained in the text
Diagram for DROPS 221-12
Diagram for DROPS 221-12
Diagram for DROPS 221-12
Diagram for DROPS 221-12
Diagram for DROPS 221-12
Diagram for DROPS 221-12
Diagram for DROPS 221-12
© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (52)

country flag Paula wrote:

Ik ben begonnen aan het patroon in alternief 2. Hierbij loop ik tegen het probleem met meerderen aan de uiteindes, al vanaf het begin. Moet in de eerste naald (in de opgezette steken) al gemeerderd worden? Hoe moet ik deze zien in het diagram? Er staat meerder in de 1e naald, maar in dat geval zijn in naald 1 in A.4 en A.5 al 2 steken te breien in plaats van 1?

02.02.2025 - 21:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Paula,

Het telpatroon en de meerderingen beginnen inderdaad direct op de eerste naald. Als je op de eerste naald meerdert en je breit bijvoorbeeld A.5 (1 steek) dan heb je op de volgende naald een steek erbij. Dus als je op de volgende naald de 2 steken van A.5 breit, dan is één van die 2 steken de meerdering die je op de vorige naald maakte.

03.02.2025 - 21:28

country flag Anna wrote:

Dobry wieczór, tzn.,że mierzę w drugiej wersji od początku robótki tak? Nie od momentu np. dodawania oczek ? Dziękuję i pozdrawiam

01.01.2025 - 22:50

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Aniu, dokładnie. Pozdrawiam noworocznie!

02.01.2025 - 09:45

country flag Anna wrote:

Mam kolejne pytanie, jestem w miejscu,gdzie nie dodaje już oczek i mam mieć 21 cm od momentu dodawania oczek w wersji 2 na plecach, tylko od dodawania oczek na karczek? Czy od początku dodawania oczek? Dziekuje za pomoc :)

30.12.2024 - 22:37

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Aniu, w wersji 2 należy mierzyć długość robótki od rzędu nabierania oczek na środku tyłu. Pozdrawiamy!

31.12.2024 - 14:41

country flag Anna wrote:

Dobry wieczór, mam pytanie, skończyłam właśnie rzad 18 w rozm.M, mam 28 o.we wzorach a4i a5 ,18 dodatkowych między markerami razy dwa 30 oczek na a1 razy dwa i 42 oczka na wzór a3. Nie daje mi to niestety 216 oczek :( gdzie popełniłam błąd? Mam tylko 214 oczek. 56+ 60+42+36 +20=214. O co tutaj chodzi?

21.12.2024 - 23:38

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Aniu, dochodzi nam jeszcze pierwsze i ostatnie oczko w rzędzie. W pierwszym rzędzie schematów A.4 i A.5 już dodajesz po 1 oczku, więc są już 2, a na schemacie widzisz tylko 1, itd. Na samym końcu będziesz mieć po 29 oczek: czyli 29 o. przed markerem 1 i 29 oczek za markerem 4. Pozdrawiamy!

23.12.2024 - 13:08

country flag Anna wrote:

Czy dobrze robie ,że zaczynając wzór a3 na plecach zaznaczam sobie markerem i potem wszystko między markerami to są dodane oczka i je przerabiam na prawej stronie na prawo a na lewej na lewo? Nie wiem dlaczego cos mi nie wychodzi we wzorach a4 i a5, czy wzory czytamy od lewej do prawej i potem od prawej do lewej? Czy może popełniam błąd? Pozdrawiam

18.12.2024 - 22:39

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Aniu, zobacz moją poprzednią odpowiedź, czyli jak czytać schematy w robótce przerabianej w rzędach. Zobacz również kurs DROPS TUTAJ. Pozdrawiamy!

23.12.2024 - 13:22

country flag Anna wrote:

Mam pytanie,chodzi o ścieg fantazyjny ,gdy mamy w 3 rzędzie zacząć dodawać oczka na końcu rzędu, czy chodzi o 3 rzad,czyli tam gdzie sa 3 oczka ? Bo rozumiem ,że wzory a4,a5 przerabiamy od lewej do prawej na prawo i od prawej do lewej na lewo? Czy oczka dodawane na lewej stronie przerabiamy na lewo? Dziekuje

18.12.2024 - 22:37

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj, schematy A.4 i A.5 przerabiamy od prawej do lewej strony na prawej stronie robótki i od lewej do prawej na lewej stronie robótki. Oczka dodane na dekolt są przerabiane zgodnie ze schematami A.4 i A.5. Rysunkowe schematy pokazują jak robótka wygląda na prawej stronie. Pozdrawiamy!

23.12.2024 - 13:19

country flag Anna wrote:

Mam pytanie: po pierwsze to jak robie wg wersji 2 to zaczynam sciegu fantazyjnego,a kiedy robie ten dekolt ściągaczem??? Po drugie ,gdy schemat a3 robie w rozmiarze M 42,to jak zacząć w połowie tej długiej kreski w 3 rzędzie???wydaje się bardzo trudny ten wzór, może udałoby się nagrać film jak powinien wyglądać początek robótki w wersji 2? Pozdrawiam i dziękuję

08.12.2024 - 18:59

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Anno, w wersji 2 zaczynasz od ściegu fantazyjnego, a dekolt ściągaczem jest wykonywany na końcu. Co do schematu A,3 to w rozmiarze M, tam gdzie na początku schematu (3-ci rząd) widzisz tą ukośną kreskę (podzieloną) to będą tam 2 oczka prawe w Twoim rozmiarze. Po prostu w większych rozmiarach będzie więcej warkoczy niż w mniejszych. Pomyślimy o filmie. Pozdrawiamy!

10.12.2024 - 09:59

country flag Nathalie DAMAY wrote:

Je ne comprends pas bien comment faire les augmentations pour les épaules/manches marteau. Peut-on voir un tutoriel ?

19.11.2024 - 14:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Damay, avez-vous pensé à regarder cette vidéo? On y montre comment augmenter pour les épaules / manches marteau dans un pull jersey; ici, on va tricoter les augmentations en suivant le diagramme A.3 jusqu'à ce qu'il soit complet pour votre taille; puis on les tricote en jersey. Si c'était autre chose qui vous pose problème, n'hésitez pas à préciser votre pensée/question. Merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!

19.11.2024 - 16:03

country flag Magdalena wrote:

Hej! Jag vill gärna sticka detta mönster (alternativ 2 till halskant) och har läst igenom det flera gånger, men förstår inte hur man skall sticka fram och tillbaka utan att sy någonstans. Har jag missat något? När byter man från att sticka fram och tillbaka till att sticka runt? Tack för svar!

01.04.2024 - 12:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Magdalena. Først strikker du frem og tilbake (det strikkes mønster og økninger til sadelskulder), samtidig økes det masker til en halsringning. På slutten av 17.pinne (retten) legges det opp x-antall masker midt foran i halsen. Nå skal arbeidet ikke snus, men det skal strikkes rundt. Du har nå en dypere hals/foran enn nakken/bak, og når du nå skal strikke er det ingen behov for å sy noen steder. mvh DROPS Design

08.04.2024 - 09:05

country flag CuriousKnitter wrote:

Hi, I am currently working on this pattern. I am in love with the design especially the cable design. However, I would like to change the balloon sleeves design to a normal sleeve. How would I go about to changing the sleeve? Do I have to change the sleeve from the shoulder area?

09.02.2024 - 00:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hi, you might take inspiration from another pattern with the same tension and the desired kind of sleeves (including decreases mid under sleeve). Happy knitting!

09.02.2024 - 08:18

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Swept Away

#sweptawaysweater

Swept Away / DROPS 221-12 - Knitted sweater in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with saddle shoulders, double neck, cables and balloon sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
 Swept Away / DROPS 221-12 - Knitted sweater in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with saddle shoulders, double neck, cables and balloon sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

Knitted sweater in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with saddle shoulders, double neck, cables and balloon sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 221-12
DROPS Design: Pattern me-219
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-104-112-122-134-146 cm = 37¾"-41"-44"-48"-52¾"-57⅜"
Full length: 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-700-800-850-950 g color 13, denim blue

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side. Find your size in the diagram (applies to A.3).
A.1 and A.2 are worked on the shoulders and sleeves.
A.3 is worked on the front and back pieces.
A.4 and A.5 are worked on the neck, if you choose Alternative-2.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 104 stitches), and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 32) = 3.3. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, work together approx. each 2nd and 3rd stitch.
INCREASE TIP-1 (for shoulders, sleeves and yoke):
FROM THE RIGHT SIDE.
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand from behind between 2 stitches from the previous round/row, knit the front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand from front between 2 stitches from the previous round/row, knit the back loop.

FROM THE WRONG SIDE:
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand from front between 2 stitches from the previous round/row, purl the back loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand from behind between 2 stitches from the previous round/row, purl the front loop.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker-thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker-thread sits between these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches) slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:

THERE ARE 2 ALTERNATIVES NECKS IN THE PATTERN.
The sweater in the picture is worked bottom up, the sweater in the pattern-text is worked top down to give a neater fit for the neck/sleeves.
ALTERNATIVE-1:
This alternative has an easier neck to work.
Start by working a double neck in the round, then continue in the round increasing for the saddle shoulders (the neck is the same front and back).
When the increases for the shoulders are finished, increase for the sleeves and then the yoke.
The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves; the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.
ALTERNATIVE-2:
This alternative has the neck shown in the picture.
The piece is started back and forth, from mid-front, and stitches are cast on each side to form the neckline at the same time as stitches are increased for the saddle shoulders.
When the increases for the shoulders are finished, increase for the sleeves and then the yoke.
The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.
When the sweater is finished, stitches are knitted up for the double neck.

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ALTERNATIVE-1 – START HERE:

DOUBLE NECK:
Read SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE above.
Cast on 104-108-112-116-120-124 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and Merino Extra Fine. Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 7 cm = 2¾".
When the rib is finished, knit 1 round and increase 32-36-40-40-40-36 stitches evenly spaced– read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 136-144-152-156-160-160 stitches. Knit 1 round (yarn overs knitted twisted). Then work the yoke.

YOKE – ALTERNATIVE-1:
Change to circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7. Insert 1 marker after the first 49-51-53-54-55-55 stitches (= mid-front) – the yoke is measured from this marker!
In addition insert 4 new markers without working the stitches and each marker inserted between 2 stitches. These markers are used when increasing for the saddle shoulders and should have a different color from the marker mid-front.
Marker-1: Insert before the first stitch on the round (= right back shoulder).
Marker 2: Count 30 stitches from marker-1 (= shoulder), insert marker-2 before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count 38-42-46-48-50-50 stitches from marker-2 (= front piece), insert marker-3 before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count 30 stitches from marker-3 (= shoulder), insert marker-4 before the next stitch.
There are 38-42-46-48-50-50 stitches left after marker-4 (= back piece).
Allow these 4 markers to follow your work onwards.
On the next round start the pattern and start increasing for the shoulders as described below. Read both sections before continuing!

PATTERN – ALTERNATIVE-1:
Work A.1 over the 30 shoulder stitches between markers 1 and 2 and between markers 3 and 4. Work A.3 over the 38-42-46-48-50-50 stitches on the front and back pieces (see marks in the diagram for your size). NOTE: As you increase for the shoulders, work the increased stitches on the front/back pieces into pattern A.3 until there is room for a complete repeat in width, then work new increased stitches in stockinette stitch (in XXL and XXXL work all the increased stitches in stockinette stitch as A.3 starts with a complete repeat). Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! A.1 is repeated in height until the increases for the shoulders are finished, A.3 is repeated in height to finished length.

INCREASES FOR SADDLE SHOULDERS – ALTERNATIVE-1:
AT THE SAME TIME, on the same round as the start of the pattern, increase 4 stitches for the shoulders as follows:
Increase BEFORE markers 3 and 1, and AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-1. You only increase on the front and back pieces; the number of shoulder stitches remains the same.
Increase every round a total of 18 times in all sizes = 208-216-224-228-232-232 stitches.
After the last increase the piece measures 7 cm = 2¾" in all sizes – measured from the marker mid-front. Go to SLEEVE INCREASES below.

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ALTERNATIVE-2 – START HERE:

YOKE:
Read SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE above.
Cast on 100-104-108-110-112-112 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 and DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Insert 4 markers without working the stitches and each marker inserted between 2 stitches. These markers are used when increasing for the saddle shoulders.
Marker-1: Insert after the first stitch on the round (= left front of neck, when garment is worn).
Marker 2: Count 30 stitches from marker-1 (= shoulder), insert marker-2 before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count 38-42-46-48-50-50 stitches from marker-2 (= back piece), insert marker-3 before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count 30 stitches from marker-3 (= shoulder), insert marker-4 before the next stitch.
There is 1 stitch left after marker-4 (= right front of neck).
Allow these 4 markers to follow your work onwards.
On the first row start the pattern and start increasing for the shoulder. In addition, cast on stitches on each side for the neckline. Read all sections before continuing!

PATTERN – ALTERNATIVE-2:
Work A.4 over the first stitch (choose diagram for your size), A.1 over the 30 shoulder stitches between markers 1 and 2, A.3 over the 38-42-46-48-50-50 stitches on the back piece between markers 2 and 3 (see marks in the diagram for your size), work A.1 over the 30 shoulder stitches between markers 3 and 4, A.5 over the last stitch (choose diagram for your size).
NOTE: As you increase for the shoulders, work the increased stitches on the front piece as shown into A.4 and A.5. On the back piece work the stitches into A.3 until there is room for a complete repeat in width, then work new increased stitches in stockinette stitch (in XXL and XXXL work all the increased stitches in stockinette stitch as A.3 starts with a complete repeat). Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! A.1 is repeated in height until the increases for the shoulders are finished, A.3 is repeated in height to finished length.
When A.4 and A.5 are finished, work A.3 over these 50 pattern stitches (A.4/A.5 and the cast-on stitches mid-front) to finished length.

INCREASES FOR SADDLE SHOULDERS – ALTERNATIVE-2:
At the same time, on the first row (right side) increase 4 stitches for the shoulders as follows:
From the right side, increase BEFORE markers 3 and 1, and AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-1.
From the wrong side, increase BEFORE markers 4 and 2, and AFTER markers 3 and 1.
You only increase on the front and back pieces; the number of shoulder stitches remains the same. Continue like this, back and forth increasing on every row a total of 18 times in all sizes.

NECKLINE – ALTERNATIVE-2:
When you have worked 3 rows of pattern, cast on new stitches at the end of each row for the neckline (the first time stitches are cast on is at the end of the third row with pattern = right side).
Cast on 1 stitch at the end of each row 4 times on each side, then 2 stitches at the end of each row 3 times on each side.
At the end of row 17 (right side) cast on 16-20-24-26-28-28 stitches (mid-front of neck). Do not turn but work the last round in A.4/A.5 (= last increase for the saddle shoulders) over all stitches as follows:
Work the last round in A.4, increase before marker-1, work A.1 as before over the next 30 stitches, increase after marker-2, work stockinette stitch and A.3 as before over the back piece between markers 2 and 3, increase before marker-3, work A.1 as before over the next 30 stitches, increase after marker-4, work the last round in A.5, then knit the 16-20-24-26-28-28 cast-on stitches mid-front. Cut the strand. There are 208-216-224-228-232-232 stitches and the piece measures 7 cm = 2¾" in all sizes – measured from the cast-on edge mid-back. Now begin the next round before marker-1. Go to SLEEVE INCREASES below.

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ALTERNATIVE-1 AND ALTERNATIVE-2 CONTINUE FROM HERE FOLLOWING THE SAME PATTERN.

SLEEVE INCREASES:
Work pattern as follows: Work A.2 between markers 1 and 2 and between markers 3 and 4, work A.3 as before between markers 2 and 3 and between markers 4 and 1 (make sure you continue on the correct row in the diagrams), the other stitches are worked in stockinette stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first round increase 4 stitches for the sleeves as follows:
Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
You only increase on the sleeves; the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. Work the increased stitches as shown in A.2.
Increase every 2nd round a total of 2-2-2-2-2-3 times = 216-224-232-236-240-244 stitches.
The piece measures approx. 9 cm = 3½" in all sizes – measured from marker (alternative-1), cast-on edge mid-back (alternative-2). Now increase for the yoke.

YOKE INCREASES:
Move the 4 markers so they sit in the outermost stitch on each side of the front and back pieces (not between 2 stitches). There are 34-34-34-34-34-36 stitches between the markers on each sleeve.
On the next round increase 8 stitches for the yoke, increasing both before and after each marker-stitch – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
You are now increasing on both the front and back pieces and on the sleeves. The increased stitches are worked in stockinette stitch on the front/back piece and in A.2 on the sleeves until there are 38 stitches in A.2, then further increases are worked in stockinette stitch.
Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 13-15-17-21-24-27 times = 320-344-368-404-432-460 stitches.
Continue without further increases until the piece measures 19-21-23-26-28-30 cm = 7½"-8¼"-9"-10¼"-11"-11¾" - measured from marker (alternative-1), cast-on edge mid-back (alternative-2).
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
S, M, L and XL: Start the round 1-1-2-2 stitches before the first marker-stitch.
XXL: Start the round just before the first marker-stitch.
XXXL: Start the round 1 stitch after the first marker-stitch.
ALL SIZES:
Place the first 64-68-74-82-84-88 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-10-12 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 96-104-110-120-132-142 stitches as before, place the next 64-68-74-82-84-88 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-10-12 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 96-104-110-120-132-142 stitches as before. Cut the strand. The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 208-224-240-260-284-308 stitches.
Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-10-12 cast-on stitches under each sleeve. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when decreasing in the sides.
Start the round by one marker-thread and continue in the round as before with A.3 over the middle 50 stitches on the front and back pieces and the other stitches in stockinette stitch.
When the body measures 4 cm = 1½" from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker-threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 4 cm = 1½" a total of 3 times in each side = 196-212-228-248-272-296 stitches.
Work until the body measures 16-16-16-15-15-15 cm = 6¼"-6¼"-6¼"-6"-6"-6" from the division. There is 3 cm = 1⅛" left to finished length – try the sweater on and work to desired length.
Knit 1 round and increase 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 206-222-240-260-286-312 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 3 cm = 1⅛". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP!
The sweater measures approx. 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 64-68-74-82-84-88 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4.5 MM = US 7 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 72-76-84-92-94-100 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve; allow the thread to follow your work onwards – it is used when increasing under the sleeve.
Continue in the round with A.2 as before over the middle 38 stitches – the other stitches are worked in stockinette stitch.
When the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1⅛" increase 2 stitches under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 3 cm = 1⅛" a total of 5-5-4-4-3-3 times = 82-86-92-100-100-106 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 33-31-30-27-26-24 cm = 13"-12¼"-11¾"-10⅝"-10¼"-9½" from the division (There is approx. 9 cm = 3½" left; try the sweater on and work to desired length).
Knit 1 round and decrease 36-38-42-46-46-50 stitches evenly spaced = 46-48-50-54-54-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 MM = US 4 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 9 cm = 3½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 42-40-39-36-35-33 cm = 16½"-15¾"-15¼"-14¼"-13¾"-13" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

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DOUBLE NECK – ALTERNATIVE-1:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

DOUBLE NECK – ALTERNATIVE-2:
Start mid-back and knit up from the right side 136-144-152-156-160-160 stitches around the neck with short circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4. Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1). On the first round decrease the number of stitches to 104-108-112-116-120-124 stitches. When the neck measures 7 cm = 2¾", bind off a little loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

Diagram explanations
knit = knit
purl = purl
place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2 , knit 2 from cable needle = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2 , knit 2 from cable needle
place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2 , knit 2 from cable needle = place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2 , knit 2 from cable needle
place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3 , knit 3 from cable needle = place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3 , knit 3 from cable needle
place 3 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3 , knit 3 from cable needle = place 3 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3 , knit 3 from cable needle
knitting direction = knitting direction
increases for saddle shoulders = increases for saddle shoulders
sleeve increases = sleeve increases
yoke increases = yoke increases
at end of this row (after A.5), cast on stitches mid-front as explained in the text = at end of this row (after A.5), cast on stitches mid-front as explained in the text
Diagram for DROPS 221-12
Diagram for DROPS 221-12
Diagram for DROPS 221-12
Diagram for DROPS 221-12
Diagram for DROPS 221-12
Diagram for DROPS 221-12
Diagram for DROPS 221-12

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