DROPS / 221 / 12

Swept Away by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is worked top down with saddle shoulders, double neck edge, cables and balloon sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

  • Swept Away / DROPS 221-12 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is worked top down with saddle shoulders, double neck edge, cables and balloon sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
  • Swept Away / DROPS 221-12 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is worked top down with saddle shoulders, double neck edge, cables and balloon sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
  • Swept Away / DROPS 221-12 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is worked top down with saddle shoulders, double neck edge, cables and balloon sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
  • Swept Away / DROPS 221-12 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is worked top down with saddle shoulders, double neck edge, cables and balloon sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern me-219
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-700-800-850-950 g colour no 13, denim blue

KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm: Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for stocking stitch and pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm: Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 37.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 104 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 32) = 3.3.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 3rd stitch. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes.
To decrease in this example work approx. every 2nd and 3rd stitch together.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to increase for saddle shoulders, sleeves and yoke):
BEFORE MARKER:
The stitch is twisted towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from round below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The stitch is twisted towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from round below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid under sleeves):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work 4 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at marker thread).
On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, stitches 2 in stocking stitch (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work double neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from right shoulder at the back, top down. On yoke increase stitches for saddle shoulders, then increase stitches for sleeves and finally increase stitches for yoke.
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

DOUBLE NECK EDGE:
Cast on 104-108-112-116-120-124 stitches on a short circular needle size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 7 cm.
When rib is done, knit 1 round while increasing 32-36-40-40-40-36 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 136-144-152-156-160-160 stitches. Knit 1 round (knit yarn overs twisted). Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Insert 1 marker after the first 49-51-53-54-55-55 stitches on round (= mid front) – measure yoke from this marker!
In addition insert 4 new markers in piece as explained below - this is done without working the stitches, and insert each of these 4 markers between 2 stitches. Use markers when increasing for saddle shoulder.
1st marker: Insert 1st marker at the beginning of round (= right shoulder at the back when garment is worn).
2nd marker: Count 30 stitches in all sizes from 1st marker (= shoulder stitches), insert 2nd marker before next stitch.
3rd marker: Count 38-42-46-48-50-50 stitches from 2nd marker (= front piece), insert 3rd marker in next stitch.
4th marker: Count 30 stitches in all sizes from 3rd marker (= shoulder stitches), insert 4th marker before next stitch.
38-42-46-48-50-50 stitches remain on round after 4th marker (= back piece).
Move these 4 markers upwards when working; increase at each of these markers.

SADDLE SHOULDER INCREASE:
Read the entire section before working - on first round begin pattern at the same time as increase for saddle shoulder!
PATTERN:
Work A.1 over the 30 shoulder stitch between 1st and 2nd marker and between 3rd and 4th marker, and work A.3 over the 38-42-46-48-50-50 stitches on front and back piece – see markings in diagram for your size. Continue pattern like this – repeat A.1 vertically until saddle shoulder increase is done, and repeat A.3 vertically until finished measurements.
SADDLE SHOULDER INCREASE:
AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase 4 stitches for saddle shoulder as follows:
Increase BEFORE 1st and 3rd marker and increase AFTER 2nd and 4th marker – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase only on front piece and back piece, and number of shoulder stitches remains the same.
Continue in round like this, and increase the same way on every round 18 times in total for all sizes = 208-216-224-228-232-232 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
NOTE: Work the increased stitch in A.3 on front piece and on back piece as shown in diagram, then work the next increases in stocking stitch (in XXL and XXXL work the increased stitches in stocking stitch as A.3 begins the entire diagram).
After last increase piece measures approx. 7 cm from marker at the neck in all sizes.
Then increase for sleeves as explained below.

SLEEVE INCREASE:
Continue pattern in the round as before, but between 1st and 2nd marker and between 3rd and 4th marker knit A.2.
AT THE SAME TIME on first round increase 4 stitches for sleeves as follows:
Increase AFTER 1st and 3rd marker and increase BEFORE 2nd and 4th marker – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
Increase only on sleeve, and number of stitches on front piece and back piece stays the same. Work the increased stitches as shown in A.2.
Increase for sleeves like this every other round 2-2-2-2-2-3 times in total = 216-224-232-236-240-244 stitches.
Piece measures approx. 9 cm from marker at the neck in all sizes. Then increase for yoke as explained below.

YOKE INCREASE:
Move the 4 markers from sleeve increase so that each of the 4 markers are in the outermost stitch in each side on front and back piece (not between 2 stitches) There are 34-34-34-34-34-36 stitches between stitches with markers on each sleeve.
On next round increase 8 stitches for yoke by increasing both before and after each of the 4 stitches with markers - remember INCREASE TIP-1.
Increase stitches on front and back piece and on both sleeves. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch on front and back piece and in A.2 on both sleeves until A.2 is over 38 stitches, then work the increased stitches in stocking stitch.
Increase like this every other round 13-15-17-21-24-27 times in total = 320-344-368-404-432-460 stitches.
Work without increases until piece measures 19-21-23-26-28-30 cm from marker by the neck.
Now divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
NOTE: Begin round 2-2-3-3-1-0 stitches before first stitch with marker as explained below:
Slip the first 64-68-74-82-84-88 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 96-104-110-120-132-142 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 64-68-74-82-84-88 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), and work the last 96-104-110-120-132-140 stitches as before (= back piece). Cut the yarn.
Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 208-224-240-260-284-308 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in each side of piece – in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-10-12 stitches that were cast on under sleeves. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for decrease later in the sides on body.
Begin round at one marker thread and continue in the round as before with A.3 over the middle 50 stitches on front and back piece and the other stitches in stocking stitch.
When piece measures 4 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 4 cm 3 times in total in each side = 196-212-228-248-272-296 stitches.
Work until piece measures 16-16-16-15-15-15 cm from division. Approx. 3 cm remains until finished measurements. Try the jumper and work to desired length.
Knit 1 round while increasing 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches evenly - remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 206-222-240-260-286-312 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP.
Jumper measures approx. 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 64-68-74-82-84-88 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 4.5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-10-12 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 72-76-84-92-94-100 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new 8-8-10-10-10-12 stitches that were cast on under sleeve. Move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for increase mid under sleeve.
Continue A.2 in the round as before over the middle 38 stitches - work the other stitches in stocking stitch.
When sleeve measures 3 cm from division, increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP-2.
Increase like this every 3 cm 5-5-4-4-3-3 times in total = 82-86-92-100-100-106 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 33-31-30-27-26-24 cm from division. Approx. 9 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jumper on and work until desired length.
Now decrease stitches to make the rib a bit tighter.
Knit 1 round while decreasing 36-38-42-46-46-50 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 46-48-50-54-54-56 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 9 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP. Sleeve measures approx. 42-40-39-36-35-33 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way. 

ASSEMBLY:
Fold rib at the top of neck down on the inside of garment. Fasten rib but to avoid a tight neck edge and avoiding the edge to tip outwards, it is important to make the seam elastic.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = saddle shoulder increase
symbols = sleeve increase
symbols = yoke increase
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 221-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Ida 01.06.2021 - 18:10:

Når det står i oppskriften at de økte maskene strikkes fortløpende inn i A.3 diagrammet, deretter strikkes de neste økningene i glattstrikk: hvordan vet jeg hvor mange av de økte som skal inn i diagrammet og når de skal kun strikkes i glattstrikk?

user icon DROPS Design 02.06.2021 kl. 13:36:

Hej Ida, du strikker de nye masker ind i A.3 til du har totalt 50 masker som i diagrammet. :)

country flag Maria 30.04.2021 - 22:57:

Grazie, sono riuscita a risolvere i miei dubbi.

country flag Maria 29.04.2021 - 22:20:

Gentilissimi, come mai il diagramma delle maniche è sfalsato di una riga rispetto a quello del davanti-dietro? (A1-A2) Grazie Cordiali saluti

user icon DROPS Design 30.04.2021 kl. 20:31:

Buonasera Maria, ci può spiegare meglio la sua difficoltà? Buon lavoro!

country flag Sandra 08.04.2021 - 16:54:

Hallo, was bedeuten die Symbole wie der Diamant oder die Uhr bei den Anleitungen? Viele Grüße, Sandra

user icon DROPS Design 09.04.2021 kl. 07:16:

Liebe Sandra, die mit dem Diamant sind diejenigen, die man auf der Homeseite sehen kann; die mit der Uhr sind die neuesten hochgeladenen Modellen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Barbara 01.04.2021 - 10:42:

Non riesco a vedere le immagini dei modelli e neanche gli schemi delle spiegazioni sul sito da nessun dispositivo apple, vorrei risolvere il problema, non vorrei rinunciare alle vostre proposte di lavori a maglia, ne ho realizzate due e mi sono trovata benissimo, anche con la spedizione del materiale!!!! Aiuto!!!!!!

user icon DROPS Design 01.04.2021 kl. 17:35:

Buongiorno Barbara, oggi il sito ha avuto qualche problema con le immagini ma i tecnici si sono attivati per risolverli. Ora dovrebbe essere a posto. Buon lavoro!

country flag Aleksandra 11.03.2021 - 22:55:

Bardzo podoba mi się wzór. Chciałabym zrobić taki sweter.

country flag Sjan Baardemans 05.03.2021 - 08:43:

Wat een mooie trui

country flag Louise 23.02.2021 - 06:03:

I absolutely love this pattern and I hope its available very soon

country flag Karolina 16.01.2021 - 21:58:

Beautiful pattern! This is my favourite one! What about naming it "Sea adventure"? Kisses!

country flag Annika 16.01.2021 - 10:24:

Sally by the Sea

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