How to increase to saddle shoulder

In this DROPS video we show how to increase to saddle shoulders. We have already worked a piece with increases and inserted 4 markers. BEFORE MARKER (marker 1 and 3): Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up strand from BEHIND and knit stitch in front loop. The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the right. AFTER MARKER (marker 2 and 4): Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up strand from the FRONT and knit stitch in back loop. The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the left. There are only increases on back piece and front piece, the number of shoulder stitches remains the same. We use the yarn DROPS Snow in the video. You must read a pattern to be able to follow this video properly. You’ll find a pattern using this technique by clicking on one off the pictures below.
Change language:

Video #1566, listed in: Knitting Videos, Yoke, Saddle shoulder

Our videos do not have sound. We are a worldwide company and our videos are watched by people speaking endless of different languages and many do not understand English. So since there is not a given language for us to use, we instead have written instructions to accompany the video, and then there is no sound to disturb while watching.

You can adjust the speed of this video by clicking on the icon, on the play bar.

Lisa wrote:

Hi! Am just wondering how this works on a purl row? (For the urban forest pattern)

01.10.2023 - 13:21

DROPS Design :

Dear Lisa, on the Urban Forest, you never work from WS, the jumper is fully worked from RS. Happy knitting!

02.10.2023 - 12:07

Tove Henningsen wrote:

Tages der ud på hver omgang til sadelskulder? ??? Model Alpenglow Sweater Drops model z-914

21.04.2023 - 20:44

DROPS Design :

Hei Tove. I oppskrift z-914 økes det slik det er forklart i oppskriften på hver omgang X-antall ganger og etter siste økning måler arbeidet ca X cm fra merket ved halsen. Deretter økes det til ermer som forklart under ERMEØKNING i oppskriften. mvh DROPS Design

24.04.2023 - 07:05

Patricia Plasse wrote:

L'augmentation intercalaire pour le modèle urban forest doit se faire entre la dernière maille avant le marqueur et la première maille après le marqueur et pour l'augmentation après le marqueur c'est entre la dernière maille avant le marqueur et la première après le marqueur ? Ai-je bien compris ?

10.04.2023 - 17:46

DROPS Design :

Bonjour Mme Plasse, les augmentations doivent se faire soit avant le marqueur (les marqueurs doivent être placés entre les mailles, pas dans une maille pour ce modèle) soit après le marqueur en fonction de l'endroit où on va augmenter - en fonction des augmentations à faire (épaules, manches ou empiècement), on va augmenter différemment (avant ou après les marqueurs pour les épaules et les manches et de chaque côté de la maille avec un marqueur pour l'empiècement). Bon tricot!

11.04.2023 - 14:42

Astrid Schütte wrote:

Hallo, für die Sattel-Schulter wird in jeder Reihe zugenommen? Bei Raglan ja nur in jeder 2. Reihe. Ist das richtig so? LG Astrid

10.09.2022 - 09:42

DROPS Design :

Liebe Frau Schütte, können Sie uns bitte die genaue Modelle Nummer/Namen angeben? So können wir Ihnen am besten helfen. Danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis.

12.09.2022 - 12:19

Marielle wrote:

Patron 226-14 Drops design modèle ai-349 Augmentations empiècements Décaler les 4 marqueurs, on a maintenant 33 mailles pour chaque manche entre les marqueurs, est-ce que je dois décaler de 5 mailles? C’est pour XS. Merci beaucoup de m’aider

06.12.2021 - 17:54

DROPS Design :

Bonjour Marielle, à ce stade du pull, vous devez avoir augmenté pour les manches, autrement dit vous devez avoir les 23 mailles de A.1 + 5 augmentations de chaque côté soit 33 mailles pour chaque manche; avant de commencer les augmentations de l'empiècement, placez les marqueurs non plus entre 2 mailles mais dans la dernière maille du devant gauche, dans la 1ère et la dernière maille du dos et dans la 1ère maille du devant droit. Bon tricot!

07.12.2021 - 07:46

Marielle wrote:

Augmentation empiècements, décaler les 4 marqueurs, j’ai 23 mailles pour les épaules + 8 mailles = 31 mailles. Je ne comprends pas, ça dit 33 mailles. Expliquez-moi d’où vient les 2 mailles qui manquent svp. Merci!

05.12.2021 - 16:37

DROPS Design :

Bonjour Marielle, peut-être pourriez-vous poser votre question sur le modèle que vous tricotez? Ce serait ainsi plus simple pour nous de pouvoir vérifier et vous expliquer. Merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!

06.12.2021 - 09:32

Gisèle Lachance wrote:

Merci j’ai bien compris les explications avec la vidéo pour la manche marteau

28.08.2021 - 20:29

Mey wrote:

Los videos estan muy bien pero ami personalmente me gustaria ver algunas muestras desde el principio Gracias

26.09.2020 - 18:17

Leave a comment or question to this video

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *.

You might also like

5:01
How to increase the sleeves to saddle shoulder

In this DROPS video we show how to increase the sleeves to saddle shoulders. We have already worked a piece with increases and inserted 4 markers. AFTER MARKER (marker 1 and 3): Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up strand from the FRONT and knit stitch in back loop. The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the left. BEFORE MARKER (marker 2 and 4): Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up strand from BEHIND and knit stitch in front loop. The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the right. There are only increases on back piece and front piece, the number of shoulder stitches remains the same. We use the yarn DROPS Snow in the video. You must read a pattern using this technique to be able to follow this video properly. You’ll find a pattern by clicking on one off the pictures below.
17:52
How to work saddle shoulders with pouffe sleeves - back and forth

In this DROPS video we show how we work the beginning to the saddle shoulders with pouffe sleeves, working back and forth, like it is worked in the “White Water Jacket” in DROPS 222-26. The same technique is used in the "White Water" sweater in DROPS 222-25 - even if beginning of the piece is first worked in the round. We use the stitch numbers in the smallest size and we have already worked the neck edge (3 cm = 1 1/8"). We start the video by showing which stitches are set on a thread (front pieces and back piece). The saddle shoulders are worked separately. Read in the pattern under SADDLE SHOULDERS how it is worked. This jacket is worked in 2 threads DROPS Kid Silk but in the video, we use 1 thread DROPS Air. You must read the pattern to be able to follow this video properly. You’ll find the pattern by clicking on the picture below.
9:45
How to work saddle shoulder increase back and forth

In this DROPS video we show how to work saddle shoulder increase back and forth, both from right side and wrong side. We have put 4 markers in the piece and it increases like this: BEFORE MARKER (applies from right side): The stitch is twisted towards the right. Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop. AFTER MARKER: The stitch is twisted towards the left. Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop. BEFORE MARKER (applies from wrong side): The stitch is twisted towards the right. Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and purl stitch in back loop. AFTER MARKER: The stitch is twisted towards the left. Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and purl stitch in front loop. We use the yarn DROPS Snow in the video. You must read a pattern and if necessary, look at the charts to be able to follow this video properly. You’ll find a pattern using this technique by clicking on one of the pictures below.
11:46
How to work a body with English rib together again

In this DROPS video we show how we work a body together again in English rib after binding off stitches for sleeve opening, as it is done in the Mountain Moraine vest in DROPS 210-4. We have a fewer number of stitches than what is written in the pattern. Work front piece according to chart A1a, (work garter stitches now as 1st stitch in A.1a), cast on new stitches under 1st sleeve, work back piece after the same chart (A.1a), cast on new stitches under 2nd sleeve / at the end of the round. Now work A.1a in the round over all the stitches. On the first round work the 3 cast-on stitches under each sleeve without yarn overs. This vest is worked in DROPS Air, but in the video we use a thicker yarn; DROPS Snow. You must read the pattern and look at the charts to be able to follow this video properly. You’ll find the pattern by clicking on the pictures below and other relevant videos.
8:38
How to divide a piece for front and back pieces and how to bind off shoulder stitches in English rib

In this DROPS video we show how to divide a piece for front and back pieces and how to bind off shoulder stitches, as done in vests in DROPS 210-4 and 217-13. In the Slippery Slopes Sweater in 217-14 we dont bind off the stitches for the sleeve opening, but put the shoulder stitches on a thread. We have fewer stitches than what is written in the patterns. Start in the middle of the back and work the number of stitches written in the pattern, we work 13 stitches in English rib, 1 stitch in garter stitch (K1), then bind off stitches for the 1st sleeve opening (yarn overs are bind off as separate stitches to avoid the bind-off edge being tight). Work English rib over the front piece, 1 garter stitch (K1), bind off to the 2nd sleeve opening, 1 garter stitch(K1) and then work English rib rest of the round. Cut the strand. Allow the other stitches to remain on the needle.Work from RS (the stitches must now be moved to the left side of the needle). Work as follows from RS: 1 garter stitch (K1), A.4 until 1 stitch remains and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch (K1). Work like this back and forth to the stated size in the pattern (make sure that the last row is from WS). Work the front piece the same as the back piece (the stitches are moved to the left needle). These vests are worked in DROPS Air, but in the video we use a thicker yarn; DROPS Snow. You must read the pattern and look at the charts to be able to follow this video properly. You’ll find patterns by clicking on one of the pictures below and other relevant videos.
17:11
How to start working a garment in English rib after charts - Part 2

In this DROPS video we show how to continue working after charts A.1, A.2 and A.3 used in the Mountain Moraine vest in DROPS 210-4 and the Easy Over vest in DROPS 217-13. We have already worked chart A.1 once in height and now only A.1a is repeated over A.1 in height. In the video we show how to work round 9. (increase round) and round 10, then we work round 15 (increase round) and round 16. Then we work A.2a over A.2 and A.3a over A.3 (we show the first round of A.2a and A.3a). When all the increases are finished (read the pattern for the number of increases), work A.1a over all stitches until the work has the correct measurements (read the pattern for measurements). Adjust so the next round is purled. These vests are worked in DROPS Air, but in the video we use a thicker yarn; DROPS Snow. You must read the pattern and look at the charts to be able to follow this video properly. You’ll find patterns by clicking on one of the pictures below and other relevant videos.