Icefall by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with shawl collar, garter stitch, cables and A-shape. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no me-204
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-114-126-138 cm = 34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41”-45”-49 1/2”-54 1/4”
Full length: 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm = 26”-26 3/4”-27 1/2”-29 1/8”-30”

All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
900-1000-1100-1200-1350-1450 g color 38, blue fog

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 42 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch and cables.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for shawl collar and rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Round (pearl grey) NO 614: 4 items in all sizes.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 75.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

MEASURING TIP:
All widths are taken with the piece lying flat and without stretching.
All lengths are taken holding the piece up, or the garment will be too long when worn.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 stitch by knitting in the front and back of the same stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Increase 1 stitch by purling in the front and back of the same stitch.

INCREASE TIP-3 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 75 stitches) minus edge stitch and band (e.g. 7 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 18) = 3.8.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. Do not increase over the edge stitch/band. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (for neck, armholes, on each side of A.1 and working the A-shape):
All increases/decreases are worked from the right side!
INCREASE 1 STITCH:
Make 1 yarn over; on the next row knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitch in garter stitch.
DECREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE RIGHT:
Knit 2 together.
DECREASE 1 STITCH TOWARDS THE LEFT:
Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked approx. 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm = 3/4”-3/4”-3/4”-3/4”-1 1/8”-1 1/8” after the increases for the V-neck are finished. Then work the 3 other buttonholes with approx. 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-3 1/2”-3 1/2” between each one.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces are worked separately, with circular needle back and forth, top down.
The sleeve is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down over the sleeve cap. It is then continued in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. The sections are sewn together to finish.

SHAWL COLLAR ON LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on 22-22-24-24-26-28 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Merino Extra Fine.
Start from the right side and work GARTER STITCH back and forth – read description above – with short rows as follows: * 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches, 1 ridge over the first 16-16-18-18-20-22 stitches towards mid front *, work from *-* until the collar measures approx. 7-7-8-8-8-9 cm = 2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/2” along the shortest side (approx. 14-14-16-16-16-18 cm = 5 1/2”-5 1/2”-6 1/4”-6 1/4”-6 1/4”-7” along the longest side).
Knit 1 row from the right side over all 22-22-24-24-26-28 stitches, do not turn but cast on 30 new stitches at the end of this row for the shoulder = 52-52-54-54-56-58 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side (over all stitches). Now continue with the left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 52-52-54-54-56-58 stitches. The first row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 32-32-34-34-36-38 stitches in garter stitch, increase 1 stitch in each of the next 4 stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1, work 2 stitches in garter stitch, increase 1 stitch in each of the next 4 stitches and 10 stitches in garter stitch = 60-60-62-62-64-66 stitches.
Work back from the wrong side with 10 stitches in garter stitch, purl 8, 2 stitches in garter stitch, purl 8, 9 stitches in garter stitch, purl 1 and 22-22-24-24-26-28 stitches in garter stitch.
Insert 1 marker thread after the first 23-23-25-25-27-29 stitches on the row (seen from the right side) – allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when increasing for the neck.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 22-22-24-24-26-28 stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, 9 stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 18 stitches) and finish with 10 stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole. Continue this pattern. Read MEASURING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Now you will increase for the armhole and neck, the cable will be displaced and the collar decreased for the band. It is important to read all sections for the left front piece before continuing – increases and decreases are worked simultaneously and whether you start decreasing first for the armhole or the neck varies in different sizes.

ARMHOLE (left front piece):
When the piece measures 19-17-16-17-14-12 cm = 7 1/2”-6 3/4”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”-5 1/2”-4 3/4” from the shoulder, increase 1 stitch for the armhole on the inside of the outermost 3 stitches (inside the last 3 stitches at on the row from the right side) – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. Increase like this every 4th row a total of 1-4-6-7-10-13 times. Then cast on 4-5-7-11-13-15 new stitches for the armhole at the end of the next row from the right side = 5-9-13-18-23-28 stitches increased.
After casting on, the piece measures approx. 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm = 8”-8 1/4”-8 3/4”-9”-9 1/2”-9 3/4” from the shoulder. Work back as before from the wrong side.

NECK (and displacement of the cable, left front piece):
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 14-14-15-16-16-16 cm = 5 1/2”-5 1/2”-6”-6 1/4”-6 1/4”-6 1/4” from the shoulder, begin to increase for the neck; to allow the cable in A.1 to follow the neck, you decrease before and increase after A.1 on the same row as you increase for the neck.
Work as follows: Increase 1 stitch for the neck after the marker thread (i.e. after the stockinette stitch right after the shawl collar), decrease 1 stitch to the right before A.1 and increase 1 stitch after A.1 – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP.
Increase and decrease like this every 6th row a total of 6-6-6-6-6-6 times, then every 4th row a total of 6-6-7-7-8-9 times. When the increases to the neck are finished, stop the displacements of the cable. The piece measures approx. 27-28-29-30-31-32 cm = 10 5/8”-11”-11 3/8”-11 3/4”-12 1/4”-12 1/2” from the shoulder and you have increased 12-12-13-13-14-15 stitches for the neck. Continue the pattern back and forth as before.

COLLAR TO BAND (left front piece):
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 14-14-15-16-16-16 cm = 5 1/2”-5 1/2”-6”-6 1/4”-6 1/4”-6 1/4” from the shoulder, decrease 1 stitch outermost on the collar by knitting together stitches 2 and 3 at the beginning of the row from the right side. Decrease like this every 6th row a total of 6-6-6-6-6-6 times, then every 4th row a total of 6-6-7-7-8-9 times (these 12-12-13-13-14-15 decreases are worked on the same rows as the increases for the neck) and finally every 2nd row a total of 4-4-5-5-6-7 times (decreases continue 4-4-5-5-6-7 times after the increases for the neck are finished).
After the last decrease for the band, there are 6 stitches in garter stitch towards mid front and the piece measures approx. 29-30-31-32-34-35 cm = 11 3/8”-11 3/4”-12 1/4”-12 1/2”-13”-13 3/8”-13 3/4” from the shoulder down.

DECREASE IN SIDE (left front piece):
When the piece measures 2 cm = 3/4” from the bottom of the armhole (approx. 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm = 8 3/4”-9”-9 1/2”-9 3/4”-10 1/4”-10 5/8” from the shoulder), decrease 1 stitch towards the right inside the outermost 3 stitches on the side – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2 cm = 3/4” a total of 3 times.

A-SHAPE (left front piece):
When the piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm = 12 1/2”-13”-13 3/8”-13 3/4”-14 1/4”-14 1/2” from the shoulder, start increasing for the A-shape. All increases/decreases for the armhole, neck and band have now finished and there are 58-62-67-72-78-84 stitches on the needle before these increases begin.
Increase 1 stitch on the inside of the 3 outermost stitches on the side, as well as increasing 1 stitch on each side of the 2 garter stitches in the middle of A.1 – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (= 3 stitches increased).
Increase on each side of the garter stitches in the middle of A.1 every 3-3-3½-3½-3½-3½ cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/4”-1 1/4”-1 1/4”-1 1/4” a total of 10 times – the garter stitch section between the cables increases in size and you always increase on each side of this section.
In addition increase in the side every 6-6-7-7-7-7 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-2 3/4” a total of 5 times. After the final increase there are 83-87-92-97-103-109 stitches on the needle.
Continue working until the front piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 26”-26 3/4”-27 1/2”-29 1/8”-30” from the shoulder – remember MEASURING TIP!
Knit 1 row from the right side over all stitches and decrease AT THE SAME TIME 8 stitches by knitting all cable stitches together 2 and 2 = 75-79-84-89-95-101 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (6 band stitches worked in garter stitch towards mid front) and increase 18-18-19-22-22-24 stitches evenly spaced on this row – read INCREASE TIP-3 = 93-97-103-111-117-125 stitches. NOTE: This is done to avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work the next row from the right side as follows: 6 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 2 cm = 3/4”. Bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP. The front piece measures approx. 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm = 26”-26 3/4”-27 1/2”-29 1/8”-30” from the shoulder.

SHAWL COLLAR ON RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on 22-22-24-24-26-28 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Merino Extra Fine.
Knit 1 row from the right side. Then work garter stitch back and forth with short rows as follows from the wrong side: *1 ridge back and forth over all stitches, 1 ridge over the first 16-16-18-18-20-22 stitches towards mid front *, work from *-* until the collar measures approx. 7-7-8-8-8-9 cm = 2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/2” along the shortest side (approx. 14-14-16-16-16-18 cm = 5 1/2”-5 1/2”-6 1/4”-6 1/4”-6 1/4”-7” along the longest side).
Knit 1 row from the wrong side over all 22-22-24-24-26-28 stitches, do not turn but cast on 30 new stitches at the end of this row for the shoulder = 52-52-54-54-56-58 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side (over all stitches). Now continue with the right front piece..

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 52-52-54-54-56-58 stitches. The first row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 10 stitches in garter stitch, increase 1 stitch in each of the next 4 stitches – remember INCREASE TIP-1, work 2 stitches in garter stitch, increase 1 stitch in each of the next 4 stitches and work 32-32-34-34-36-38 stitches in garter stitch = 60-60-62-62-64-66 stitches.
Work back from the wrong side with 22-22-24-24-26-28 stitches in garter stitch, purl 1, 9 stitches in garter stitch, purl 8, 2 stitches in garter stitch, purl 8 and 10 stitches in garter stitch.
Insert 1 marker thread before the last 23-23-25-25-27-29 stitches on the row (seen from the right side) – allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when increasing for the neck.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 10 stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole, A.1 (= 18 stitches), 9 stitches in garter stitch, 1 stitch in stockinette stitch and 22-22-24-24-26-28 stitches in garter stitch over the collar. Continue this pattern – remember MEASURING TIP!
Now you will increase for the armhole and neck, the cable will be displaced and the collar decreased for the band. It is important to read all sections for the right front piece before continuing – increases and decreases are worked simultaneously and whether you start decreasing first for the armhole or the neck varies in different sizes.

ARMHOLE (right front piece):
When the piece measures 19-17-16-17-14-12 cm = 7 1/2”-6 3/4”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”-5 1/2”-4 3/4” from the shoulder, increase 1 stitch for the armhole on the inside of the outermost 3 stitches (inside the first 3 stitches at the beginning of the row from the right side) – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. Increase like this every 4th row a total of 1-4-6-7-10-13 times. Then cast on 4-5-7-11-13-15 new stitches for the armhole at the end of the next row from the wrong side = 5-9-13-18-23-28 stitches increased.
After casting on, the piece measures approx. 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm = 8”-8 1/4”-8 3/4”-9”-9 1/2”-9 3/4” from the shoulder.

NECK (and displacement of the cable, right front piece):
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 14-14-15-16-16-16 cm = 5 1/2”-5 1/2”-6”-6 1/4”-6 1/4”-6 1/4” from the shoulder, begin to increase for the neck; to allow the cable in A.1 to follow the neck, you increase before A.1 and decrease after A.1 on the same rows as the neck-increases.
Work as follows: Increase 1 stitch before A.1, decrease 1 stitch towards the left after A.1 and increase 1 stitch for the neck before the marker thread (before the stockinette stitch just before the shawl collar) – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP.
Increase and decrease like this every 6th row a total of 6-6-6-6-6-6 times, then every 4th row a total of 6-6-7-7-8-9 times. When the increases to the neck are finished, stop the displacements of the cable. The piece measures approx. 27-28-29-30-31-32 cm = 10 5/8”-11”-11 3/8”-11 3/4”-12 1/4”-12 1/2” from the shoulder and you have increased 12-12-13-13-14-15 stitches for the neck. Continue the pattern back and forth as before – remember BUTTONHOLES on the right band– read description above.

COLLAR TO BAND (right front piece):
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 14-14-15-16-16-16 cm = 5 1/2”-5 1/2”-6”-6 1/4”-6 1/4”-6 1/4” from the shoulder, decrease 1 stitch outermost on the collar by working as before until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 2 twisted together and knit 1. Decrease like this every 6th row a total of 6-6-6-6-6-6 times, then every 4th row a total of 6-6-7-7-8-9 times (these 12-12-13-13-14-15 decreases are worked on the same rows as the increases for the neck) and finally every 2nd row a total of 4-4-5-5-6-7 times (decreases continue 4-4-5-5-6-7 times after the increases for the neck are finished).
After the last decrease for the band, there are 6 stitches in garter stitch towards mid front and the piece measures approx. 29-30-31-32-34-35 cm = 11 3/8”-11 3/4”-12 1/4”-12 1/2”-13 3/8”-13 3/4” from the shoulder down.

DECREASE IN SIDE (right front piece):
When the piece measures 2 cm = 3/4” from the bottom of the armhole (approx. 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm = 8 3/4”-9”-9 1/2”-9 3/4”-10 1/4”-10 5/8” from the shoulder), decrease 1 stitch towards the left inside the outermost 3 stitches on the side – rememeber INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2 cm = 3/4” a total of 3 times.

A-SHAPE (right front piece):
When the piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm = 12 1/2”-13”-13 3/8”-13 3/4”-14 1/4”-14 1/2” from the shoulder, start increasing for the A-shape. All increases/decreases for the armhole, neck and band have now finished and there are 58-62-67-72-78-84 stitches on the needle before the increases begin.
Increase 1 stitch on the inside of the 3 outermost stitches on the side, as well as increasing 1 stitch on each side of the 2 garter stitches in the middle of A.1 – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (= 3 stitches increased).
Continue to increase on each side of the garter stitches in the middle of A.1 every 3-3-3½-3½-3½-3½ cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/4”-1 1/4”-1 1/4”-1 1/4” a total of 10 times – the garter stitch section between the cables increases in size and you always increase on each side of this section.
In addition increase in the side every 6-6-7-7-7-7 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-2 3//4”-2 3/4” a total of 5 times. After the final increase there are 83-87-92-97-103-109 stitches on the needle.
Continue working until the front piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 25 1/4”-26”-26 3/4”-27 1/2”-29 1/8” from the shoulder – remember MEASURING TIP!
Knit 1 row from the right side over all stitches and decrease AT THE SAME TIME 8 stitches by knitting all cable stitches together 2 and 2 = 75-79-84-89-95-101 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (6 band stitches worked in garter stitch towards mid front) and increase 18-18-19-22-22-24 stitches evenly spaced on this row = 93-97-103-111-117-125 stitches. NOTE: This is done to avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work the next row from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left and finish with 6 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 2 cm = 3/4”. Bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.

BACK PIECE:
The back piece is worked in garter stitch with cables.
The right shoulder is worked, then the left shoulder and the 2 sections joined together by casting on for the neck. The back piece is finished back and forth.

RIGHT SHOULDER (when the garment is worn):
Cast on 30 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and Merino Extra Fine.
Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 10 stitches in garter stitch, increase 1 stitch in each of the next 4 stitches – remember INCREASE TIP-1, 2 stitches in garter stitch, increase 1 stitch in each of the next 4 stitches and finish with 10 stitches in garter stitch = 38 stitches.
Work back from the wrong side with 10 stitches in garter stitch, purl 8, 2 stitches in garter stitch, purl 8 and 10 stitches in garter stitch.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 10 stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 (= 18 stitches) and 10 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the wrong side, cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the row towards the neck (this stitch is also worked in garter stitch) = 39 stitches. Work 2 more rows. The piece measures approx. 2 cm = 3/4” from the cast-on edge. Lay the piece to one side and work the left shoulder.

LEFT SHOULDER:
Cast on 30 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and Merino Extra Fine.
Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side and knit 1 row from the wrong side.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 10 stitches in garter stitch, increase 1 stitch in each of the next 4 stitches, 2 stitches in garter stitch, increase 1 stitch in each of the next 4 stitches and finish with 10 stitches in garter stitch = 38 stitches.
Work back from the wrong side with 10 stitches in garter stitch, purl 8, 2 stitches in garter stitch, purl 8 and 10 stitches in garter stitch.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 10 stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 (= 18 stitches) and 10 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side, cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the row towards the neck (this stitch is also worked in garter stitch) = 39 stitches. When the piece measures 2 cm = 3/4” from the cast-on edge (the same row from the wrong side in A.1 as on the right shoulder), work the back piece as described below.

BACK PIECE:
Now work the 2 shoulders together by casting on stitches for the neck as follows: Start on the right side of the left shoulder and work pattern as before over the 39 stitches, do not turn but cast on 22-22-24-24-26-28 new stitches for the neck and then work pattern as before over the 39 stitches on the right shoulder = 100-100-102-102-104-106 stitches.
Continue back and forth with garter stitch and A.1 as before.
Now you will increase for the armholes and the cables will be displaced towards the middle. It is important to read all sections for the back piece before continuing – increases and decreases are worked simultaneously and whether you start decreasing first for the armhole or displace the cables varies in different sizes.

ARMHOLES (back piece):
When the piece measures 19-17-16-17-14-12 cm = 7 1/2”-6 3/4”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”-5 1/2”-4 3/4” from the shoulder, increase 1 stitch for the armhole on the inside of the 3 outermost stitches on each side – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. Increase like this every 4th row a total of 1-4-6-7-10-13 times. Then cast on 4-5-7-11-13-15 new stitches at the end of the next 2 rows = a total of 5-9-13-18-23-28 stitches increased on each side.
After casting on, the piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm = 8”-8 1/4”-8 3/4”-9”-9 1/2”-9 3/4” and there are 110-118-128-138-150-162 stitches.

DISPLACEMENT OF CABLES (back piece):
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 14-15-16-18-19-20 cm = 5 1/2"-6"-6 1/4"-7"-7 1/2"-8" from the shoulder begin to displace the cables towards mid-back. Increase 1 stitch before the first A.1 (seen from the right side) and increase 1 stitch after the second A.1 (seen from the right side) – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. In addition, on the same row, decrease 1 stitch towards the left after the first A.1 and decrease 1 stitch towards the right before the second A.1 (= 2 stitches increased and 2 stitches decreased).
Increase and decrease like this every 6th row a total of 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm = 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" times, then every 4th row a total of 4-4-4-2-2-2 cm = 1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4" times. When the increases and decreases are finished, the piece measures approx. 27-28-29-30-31-32 cm = 10 5/8”-11”-11 3/8”-11 3/4”-12 1/4”-12 1/2” from the shoulder and there are 22-22-24-26-28-30 garter stitches between the cables mid-back. Continue the pattern without displacements.

DECREASE IN SIDES (back piece):
When the piece measures 2 cm = 3/4” from the bottom of the armholes (approx. 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm = 8 3/4”-9”-9 1/2”-9 3/4”-10 1/4”-10 5/8” from the shoulder), decrease 1 stitch on each side in the same way as on the front pieces (decrease 1 stitch towards the left on the inside of the first 3 stitches from the right side and decrease towards the right on the inside of the last 3 stitches remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP). Decrease like this every 2 cm = 3/4” a total of 3 times = 104-112-122-132-144-156 stitches.

A-SHAPE (back piece):
When the piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm = 12 1/2”-13”-13 3/8”-13 3/4”-14 1/4”-14 1/2” from the shoulder, increase 8 stitches for the A-shape from the right side as follows: Increase 1 stitch on the inside of the outermost 3 stitches on each side, increase 1 stitch on each side of the 22-22-24-26-28-30 garter stitches mid-back and increase 1 stitch on each side of the 2 garter stitches in the middle of both A.1 (= 8 stitches increased - remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP). NOTE: All the new stitches are worked in garter stitch.
Continue the increases on each side of the garter stitches in A.1 every 3-3-3½-3½-3½-3½ cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/4”-1 1/4”-1 1/4”-1 1/4” a total of 10 times –the cables divide and the garter stitch sections between them increases. In addition continue to increase on each side of the back piece and on each side of the garter stitches mid-back every 6-6-7-7-7-7 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-2 3/4” a total of 5 times.
After the last increase there are 164-172-182-192-204-216 stitches on the needle.
Continue working until the piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm = 25 1/4”-26”-26 3/4”-27 1/2”-29 1/8” from the shoulder – remember MEASURING TIP!
Knit 1 row from the right side and AT THE SAME TIME decrease 16 stitches by knitting together all cable stitches 2 and 2 = 148-156-166-176-188-200 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side) where you increase 37-39-41-43-47-49 stitches evenly spaced = 185-195-207-219-235-249 stitches; this is done to avoid the rib being tight.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 2 cm = 3/4”. Bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve top is worked back and forth with circular needle; the rest of the sleeve is worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.
Cast on 38-38-38-34-30-26 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and Merino Extra Fine.
The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Purl 14-14-14-12-10-8 stitches, increase 1 stitch in each of the next 4 stitches – remember INCREASE TIP-2, work 2 stitches in garter stitch, increase 1 stitch in each of the next 4 stitches and purl 14-14-14-12-10-8 = 46-46-46-42-38-34 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the row; the thread should match the arrow in A.2.
Work A.2 back and forth; but note that sleeve cap has fewer stitches than A.2, so count out from the middle to find the beginning of the pattern and as you increase work more stitches into A.2; the other stitches are worked in stockinette stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME cast on new stitches for the sleeve cap at the end of every row as follows: Cast on 3 stitches 1-1-1-1-1-1 time on each side, 2 stitches 2-2-2-2-3-4 times on each side, 1 stitch 4-5-7-7-9-10 times on each side, 2 stitches 2-2-2-3-3-4 times on each side, 3 stitches 0-0-0-1-1-1 time on each side and 3-5-6-6-6-6 stitches 1 time on each side = 82-88-94-100-104-110 stitches.
After the final cast-on, the sleeve cap measures approx. 7-8-9-11-13-15 cm = 2 3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/2”-4 3/8”-5 1/2”-6” from the cast-on edge. Remove the marker thread.
The rest of the sleeve is now worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6.
Start of the round = mid under sleeve. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Continue with A.2 over the middle 56 stitches on top of the sleeve and stockinette stitch over the other stitches.
AT THE SAME TIME when the sleeve measures 2-2-2-2-1-1 cm = 3/4”-3/4”-3/4”-3/4”-3/8”-3/8” from where you began working in the round, decrease 2 stitches mid-under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4th-3rd-2nd-2nd-2nd-2nd round a total of 9-11-13-13-14-16 times = 64-66-68-74-76-78 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 17-16-16-16-15-15 cm = 6 3/4”-6 1/4”-6 1/4”-6 1/4”-6”-6” from where you began working in the round, increase 4 stitches as follows: 1 stitch on each side of the middle 6 stitches under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP-1 and 1 stitch on each side of the 2 garter stitches in the middle of A.2. The 2 stitches under the sleeve are worked in stockinette stitch, the 2 stitches in A.2 are worked in garter stitch.
Increase like this every 5-5-5-7-6-6 cm = 2”-2”-2”-2 3/4”-2 3/8”-2 3/8” a total of 5-5-5-4-4-4 times = 84-86-88-90-92-94 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 44-44-44-43-41-40 cm = 17 1/4”-17 1/4”-17 1/4”-17”-16 1/8”-15 3/4” from where you began working in the round. There is approx. 2 cm = 3/4” left to finished length; try the jacket on and work to desired length. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to broader shoulders and longer sleeve cap.
Knit 1 round where you decrease 8 stitches by knitting all cable stitches together 2 and 2 = 76-78-80-82-84-86 stitches. Knit 1 round where you increase 20 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes = 96-98-100-102-104-106 stitches.
Change to short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 2 cm = 3/4”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 53-54-55-56-56-57 cm = 21”-21 1/4”-21 5/8”-22”-22”-22 1/2” from the cast-on edge. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-on edge. Sew the collar together mid-back – make sure the seam is on the inside when the collar is turned down. Sew the collar to the neck at the back.
Sew the side seams from the armholes and down, inside the 1 edge stitch.
Sew in the sleeves, inside the 1 edge stitch on the armholes.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.12.2020
Correction: ...DISPLACEMENT OF CABLES (back piece): AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 14-15-16-18-19-20 cm = 5 1/2"-6"-6 1/4"-7"-7 1/2"-8" from the shoulder begin to displace the cables towards mid-back. Increase 1 stitch before the first A.1 (seen from the right side) and increase 1 stitch after the second A.1 (seen from the right side) – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. In addition, on the same row, decrease 1 stitch towards the left after the first A.1 and decrease 1 stitch towards the right before the second A.1 (= 2 stitches increased and 2 stitches decreased). Increase and decrease like this every 6th row a total of 7-7-7-8-8-8 times, then every 4th row a total of 4-4-4-2-2-2 times. When the increases and decreases are finished, the piece measures approx. 27-28-29-30-31-32 cm = 10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/2" from the shoulder and there are 22-22-24-26-28-30 garter stitches between the cables mid-back. Continue the pattern without displacements...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = place 4 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 4, knit 4 from cable needle
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = marker thread
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 216-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Annie wrote:

Liebes Drops Team, Dies ist ein wunderschönes Werk! Ich bin am Halsausschnitt und weiss nicht genau wie der Zopf verschoben wird. Wenn ich nach der rechten Masche eine zunehme zählt die dann auch zu diesen 9 Maschen bis A1 anfängt? Bleiben also zwischen dem Schallkragen und dem Zopf immer 9 Maschen? Vielen Dank. Annie

08.05.2021 - 08:44

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Annie, zwischen die glatt rechte Masche und A.1 sollen Sie immer 9 Maschen kraus rechts haben, dh nach der glatt rechte Maschen 1 Umschlag stricken (= Zunahme), 7 M rechts stricken, 1 Abnahme (= 2 M re zs), dann A.1 stricken, 1 Umschlag und wie zuvor weiterstricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.05.2021 kl. 10:47

country flag Lucia Gauthier wrote:

Je veux tricoter le Modèle n° me-204. On n'indique pas combien de balles de laine est requis. Pour un modèle de grandeur L, combien m'en faudra-t-il? Merci.

05.05.2021 - 22:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gauthier, vous trouverez toujours la quantité requise pour chaque taille, au poids, dans l'en-tête, en même temps que les tailles, les aiguilles et (dans les derniers modèles) l'échantillon, autrement dit, en L il vous faut ici 1100 g DROPS Merino Extra Fine/50 g la pelote = il vous faudra 22 pelotes Merino Extra Fine en taille L. Bon tricot!

06.05.2021 kl. 07:37

country flag Ria wrote:

Hi I love this cardigan and can't wait to get started. I've scanned through the instructions and found something odd. Is this right here?: ARMHOLES (back piece): When the piece measures 19-17-16-17-14-12 cm from the shoulder - The number 17 comes up twice, shouldn't it be 15? Is this intentional? Thank you so much for your help, Ria

06.04.2021 - 09:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ria, when unsure about a line of numbers (like measurements, etc) you can always check the Norvegian version. In this case that has the same measurements, so the translations are correct, but let me check with the Design dept, and get back to you. Happy Knitting until then.

06.04.2021 kl. 09:35

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Liebes drops team vielen dank für gute nachricht ich habe nur gedacht ich frage vorher denn das ganze wieder aufzuziehen erscheint etwas schwierig. jetzt kann ich stricken. Wann kommt die frühjahr- sommerkollektion zur ansicht. Es sind immer wieder mald tolle modelle dabei. viele grüsse aus friesenheim ingrid

05.01.2021 - 18:11

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Hallo liebes drops team, ich wende mich heute nochmal an euch, da ich immer nochd keine rückmeldung habe auf die korrektur des rückenteils. ich möchte doch endlich fertigsgtricken. liebe grüsse ingrid

05.01.2021 - 09:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ingrid, Entschuldigung für die Verspätung, es ist also so richtig, die Verschiebung wird beim Rückentil etwas unterschiedlich sein. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.01.2021 kl. 15:15

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Hallo, danke für die mitteilung ich hoffe, dass die korrektur bald kommt ich möchte doch die jakce schnellstens fertig stricken. Danke , ingrid

04.01.2021 - 08:40

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Hallo danke für die schnelle bearbeitung. Muss ich ,mich nochmals melden oder kommt die antwort automatisch. bin ich registriert zur beantwortung

23.12.2020 - 13:46

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ingrid, kommen Sie regelmäßig wieder, wenn eine Korrektur gemacht wird, dann sehen Sie den neuen Text auch unter "Diese Anleitungn wurde korrigiert" ganz am Ende der Anleitung. Danke für Ihren Geduld.

04.01.2021 kl. 07:19

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Hallo , sind die zunahmen und abnahmen beim rückenteil nicht identisch mit den vorderteilen . die zunahmen und abnahmen sind höhenmäßig nicht identisch mit den vorderteilen. ich bitte um antwort noch vor den feiertagen. vielen dank liebe grüße ingrid

22.12.2020 - 18:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ingrid, Ihren Hinweis wurde unsere Design Team weiterleitet, leider wird es nicht vor den Feiertagen erledigt - danke im voraus für Ihren Geduld.

23.12.2020 kl. 10:54

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Hallo bin gerade am stricken dieser jacke. mir ist nicht ganz klar warum die zopfverschiebung beim vorderteil nach 14 cm beginnt und beim rückenteil nach 16 cm beginn der zopfverschiebung. das kann doch nicht sein sonst wäre es unterschiedlich zwischen vorder- und rückenteil. ich bitte um baldi ge antwort da ich sonst nicht weiterstricken kann.

22.12.2020 - 13:51

country flag Malin Sivertsson wrote:

I diagram förklaring så är flätorna vridna åt samma håll. Ska inte den ena sättas 4 maskor på flätstickan bakom arbetet? Som det är nu sätts båda framför arbetet.

19.12.2020 - 23:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Malin. Tack för info, det var fel i den svenska översättningen och detta är nu rättat. Mvh DROPS Design

21.12.2020 kl. 10:22

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