DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Country Muse Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Lima. The piece is worked top down, with double neck and saddle shoulders. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 216-39
DROPS Design: Pattern no li-120
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-104-112-122-134-146 cm = 37¾"-41"-44"-48"-52¾"-57⅜"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarngroup B)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g color 5310, light brown

KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16" and 60 cm = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 80 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 7-7-7-8-8-8 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 104 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 26) = 3.6. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 3rd and 4th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together alternately each 2nd and 3rd stitch and each 3rd and 4th stitch (approx.).

INCREASE TIP-1 (for saddle shoulder increase):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 2 stitches on each side of the 26-26-26-30-30-30 shoulder stitches by making 1 yarn over as described below. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch. NOTE: The number of shoulder-stitches stays the same – the increased stitches become part of the front/back pieces.
BEFORE MARKER:
Start 4 stitches before the marker, make 1 tight yarn over, work 4 stockinette stitches, make 1 tight yarn over (= 2 stitches increased).
AFTER MARKER:
Make 1 tight yarn over, work 4 stockinette stitches, make 1 tight yarn over (= 2 stitches increased).

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sleeve increase):
All increases are worked from the right side!
BEFORE MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up strand from behind and knit stitch in front loop (= 1 stitch increased)
AFTER MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up strand from the front and knit stitch in back loop (= 1 stitch increased)

INCREASE TIP-3 (yoke increase):
Start before the marker-stitch, use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up strand from behind and knit stitch in front loop, work marker-stitch in stockinette stitch as before, use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the row below, pick up strand from the front and knit stitch in back loop (= 1 stitch increased on each side of the marker-stitch). Work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP-4 (for sides of body):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Work until there are 3 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work 6 stitches in stockinette stitch (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased).
On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures 2 cm = ¾", the next when the neck measures 7 cm = ¾". These 2 buttonholes will match when the neck is folded double. Then work the other 6-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes with approx. 8-8-8½-8-8-8½ cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3 2/8"-3⅛"-3⅛"-3 2/8" between each one.

KNITTING TIP (for rib at bottom of body):
Work rib with knit 2 / purl 2 over all stitches as explained in pattern, and with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front as before. If you want the 4 purled stitches (seen from right side) from A.1 to continue all the way down in the rib, you must adjust this when increasing stitches evenly before working rib. Make sure to knit 2 stitches on each side of the 4 purled stitches.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. Stitches are increased for the saddle shoulders, then for the sleeves and then for yoke. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 104-108-112-116-120-124 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side) with circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and Lima.
Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 9 cm = 3½" – remember BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
When the rib is finished, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 26-26-30-38-38-42 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 130-134-142-154-158-166 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (yarn overs purled twisted and bands knitted). Now work yoke as described below:

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7. Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row. The yoke is measured from this marker!
In addition insert 4 new markers as described below – these markers are inserted without working the stitches, and each marker is placed between 2 stitches. These markers are used when increasing for saddle shoulder and should be of a different color to the marker on the neck.
Start mid front, count 22-23-25-26-27-29 stitches (= front piece), insert marker 1 before the next stitch, count 26-26-26-30-30-30 stitches (= shoulder), insert marker 2 before the next stitch, count 34-36-40-42-44-48 stitches (= back piece), insert marker 3 before the next stitch, count 26-26-26-30-30-30 stitches (= shoulder), insert marker 4 before the next stitch. There are 22-23-25-26-27-29 stitches left after the last marker. Allow these markers to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing.

SADDLE SHOULDER-INCREASE:
Read the whole section before continuing!
The piece is continued with stockinette stitch on the front/back pieces, 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and with A.1 over the 26-26-26-30-30-30 stitches on each shoulder (between markers 1 and 2 and between markers 3 and 4) – remember BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side, increase 8 STITCHES for the saddle shoulders as follows:
Increase 2 stitches BEFORE markers 1 and 3 (i.e. before A.1), and increase 2 stitches AFTER markers 2 and 4 (i.e. after A.1) – read INCREASE TIP-1. Remember there are only increases on front pieces and back piece and number of shoulder stitches remains the same.
Continue this pattern and increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 10-12-13-14-16-17 times = 210-230-246-266-286-302 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
After the last increase, the piece measures approx. 8-9-10-11-12-13 cm = 3⅛"-3½"-4"-4⅜"-4¾"-5⅛" from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the sleeves as follows:

SLEEVE-INCREASES:
Move the 4 markers from saddle shoulder-increase, so they are now on each side of the middle 18-18-18-22-22-22 stitches in A.1 on each shoulders – see arrows in A.1.
Continue with stockinette stitch, 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front and A.1 over A.1 as before.
AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side increase 4 stitches for the sleeves as follows:
Increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 1 and 3 and increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-2. Remember there are only increases on sleeves and number of stitches in A.1 is increasing, but number of stitches on front piece and back piece remains the same – the increased stitches are knitted from right side and purled from wrong side.
Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 15-16-16-18-19-19 times = 270-294-310-338-362-378 stitches.
After the last increase, the piece measures approx. 11-12-12-13-14-14 cm = 4⅜"-4¾"-4¾"-5⅛"-5½"-5½" from where the sleeve-increases started. Continue by increasing to a small raglan as described below.

YOKE INCREASE:
Move the 4 markers from the sleeves, and insert them in the outermost stitches on each side of both sleeves. There are 46-48-48-56-58-58 stitches between the markers on each sleeve.
Continue with stockinette stitch, 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front and 4 purled stitches (seen from the right side) from A.1 which should continue down the front pieces and back piece as before.
AT THE SAME TIME, on the next row from the right side, increase 8 stitches for yoke increase as follows:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the 4 marker-stitches – read INCREASE TIP-3 (= 8 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) a total of 5-5-6-7-7-8 times = 310-334-358-394-418-442 stitches.
Continue working without further increases until the piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm = 6¼"-6¾"-7"-7½"-8"-8¼" from where the sleeve-increase started after saddle shoulder increase. The piece now measures approx. 24-26-28-30-32-34 cm = 9½"-10¼"-11"-11¾"-12½"-13⅜" from the marker by the neck.
On the next row divide the yoke for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 50-54-57-62-67-72 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 60-64-70-78-80-82 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on the needle (in side under sleeve), work 90-98-104-114-124-134 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 60-64-70-78-80-82 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on the needle (in side under sleeve), work the last 50-54-57-62-67-72 stitches as before (= front piece). Remove all markers.
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 202-218-234-254-278-302 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 53-57-61-66-72-78 stitches in from each side (= sides of body). There are 96-104-112-122-134-146 stitches between threads on the back piece.
Allow the threads to follow your work onwards – they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Work stockinette stitch back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and 4 purled stitches (seen from the right side) which continue the line down the front and back pieces as before.
When the piece measures 6 cm = 2⅜" from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-4 (= 4 stitches increased).
Increase like this every 6 cm = 2⅜" a total of 3 times on each side = 214-230-246-266-290-314 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 23-23-23-22-22-22 cm = 9"-9"-9"-8¾"-8¾"-8¾" from the division. There is approx. 4 cm = 1½" left to finished length; try the jacket on and work to desired length.

Purl 1 row from wrong side (work band stitches in garter stitch) and AT THE SAME TIME increase 50-54-58-66-70-78 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 264-284-304-332-360-392 stitches. NOTE: Increase to prevent rib from contracting and pulling the piece together.
Change to circular needle 3,5 mm = US 4. Work next row as follows from right side – read KNITTING TIP: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches remaining on needle, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this rib with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl for 4 cm = 1½". Bind off with knit over knit, garter stitch over garter stitch and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 60-64-70-78-80-82 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm = US 7 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 66-70-78-86-90-94 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches under the sleeve; allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start the round at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the piece measures 2 cm = ¾" from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 2-2-1½-1-1-1 cm = ¾"-¾"-½"-⅜"-⅜" a total of 7-8-11-14-15-16 times = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 36-35-33-32-31-29 cm = 14¼"-13¾"-13"-12½"-12¼"-11⅜" from the division. There is approx. 6 cm = 2⅜" left to finished length; try the jacket on and work to desired length (NOTE: shorter measurements in larger sizes due to broader shoulders and longer yoke).
Knit 1 round where you decrease 4-6-4-6-4-6 stitches evenly spaced = 48-48-52-52-56-56 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm = US 4 and work rib (= knit 2, purl 2) for 6 cm = 2⅜".
Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 42-41-39-38-37-35 cm = 16½"-16⅛"-15¼"-15"-14½"-13¾"from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the wrong side. Sew down but, to avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important the seam is elastic – make sure the 2 buttonholes on the neck match each other. Sew the openings on each side of the neck with small stitches.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = arrow marks where markers for increase on sleeve are inserted - these markers are inserted after saddle shoulder-increases is done.
symbols = saddle shoulder increase
symbols = sleeve increase
symbols = yoke increase
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (33)

country flag Saskia Havinga wrote:

Nog een vraag: onder het kopje mouwmeerderingen staat als laatste zin: Ga verder door te minderen naar een kleine raglan, zoals beschreven hieronder. Echter, ik zie nergens staan dat er geminderd moet worden.

25.03.2024 - 17:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Saskia,

De laatste zin is inderdaad wat verwarrend, want het lijkt daardoor of je iets kleiner moet maken doordat er een 'kleine raglan' staat. Je kunt dit negeren en gewoon verder gaan met de volgende paragraaf.

27.03.2024 - 12:40

country flag Saskia Havinga wrote:

Ik ben net bij het lijf van het vest begonnen. Ik moet volgens het patroon beginnen met meerderen 6 cm vanaf de scheiding. Wat wordt bedoeld met de scheiding? Met vriendelijke groet, Saskia

24.03.2024 - 23:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Saskia,

Hiermee wordt het punt bedoelt waarop je alleen het lijf breit en de mouwen laat rusten.

27.03.2024 - 13:45

country flag Mari wrote:

Vedr sadelskulderøkning. Det er 134 m (str M) og skal økes 12 ggr. (12x4=48) noe som gir 182m og ikke 230m som det står i oppskriften. 230m tilsier 24 økninger. Hva er riktig?

06.03.2024 - 20:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mari, Du øker 2 masker på begge sider av både for- og bakstykket. Da blir det 8 økte masker på hver pinne. 12 x 8 = 96. 134 + 96 = 230 masker. God fornøyelse!

11.03.2024 - 07:02

country flag Willemijn wrote:

Bij het meerderen voor de zadelschouder ontstaan er gaatjes vóór de eerste en de derde markeerdraad. Dat komt omdat de volgende steek averechts is. Hoe voorkom ik dit? Kan ik voor de laatste vier steken een omslag maken, dan drie steken breien, weer een omslag en de vierde steek normaal breien? Ik ben al drie keer opnieuw begonnen.

11.01.2024 - 16:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Willemijn,

Doordat de volgende steek een averechte steek is wordt de omslag inderdaad automatisch groter, vandaar dat bij tip voor het meerderen ook staat aangegeven om extra strakke omslagen te maken. Heb je hier op gelet? Je zou daarnaast ook nog de volgende steek extra strak kunnen breien.

11.01.2024 - 18:44

country flag Martine RIBAULT wrote:

Sur votre conseil j'ai fait un échantillon avec une d'aig. n°5 pour obtenir 10x10 avec KARISMA. Je trouve que le tricot est plus aéré qu'avec une aig. n°4,5. L'échantillon avec aig. 4,5 la tension est 9,5x9,5 et un tricot plus resserré, qui me convient davantage. Dans le cas si je tricote avec 4,5, en rajoutant 2m à chaque bord des devants, est-ce-que j'obtiendrai les mêmes dimensions en largueur que sur le schéma représentant la veste ? Merci pour votre réponse.

03.01.2024 - 19:22

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ribault, pensez également qu'un blocage aide parfois à obtenir la tension souhaitée, toutefois, si vous souhaitez conserver votre échantillon, il vous faudra recalculer les explications en vous basant sur votre propre tension car nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande. Vous pouvez également consulter les différents modèles du groupe B avec la tension qui vous convient. Bon tricot!

04.01.2024 - 08:10

country flag Martine RIBAULT wrote:

Je ne suis pas parvenue à imprimer l'ensemble des réponses données aux questions posées par les différentes personnes, qui ont eu besoin de plus renseignement sur ce modèle. Serait-il possible de recevoir en P.J. par mail l'ensemble de ces pages avec traduction française si nécessaire, S.V.P. Avec fil KARISMA j'obtient 9,5x9,5 d'échantil. Si je rajoute 2m à chaque bande boutonnage, est-ce-que j'aurai les même dimensions que sur le schéma représentant le modèle ?

03.01.2024 - 19:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ribault, pour obtenir les mesures finales telles qu'indiqué dans ce modèle, votre échantillon doit être de 20 mailles x 26 rangs jersey = 10 x 10 cm, si vous n'avez que 9,5 cm de côté, ré-essayez avec des aiguilles d'une demi-taille et/ou d'une taille au-dessus jusqu'à ce que vous ayez le bon échantillon, il vous faudra sinon recalculer les explications pour votre échantillon si vous souhaitez conserver une autre tension. Bon tricot!

04.01.2024 - 08:08

country flag RIBAULT Martine wrote:

J'ai fais un échantillon avec le fil KARISMA, aiguille circulaire 4,5 et j'ai obtenu un 9,5x9,5, pour 20 m en largeur et 26 rgs en hauteur. Il manque donc 0,5 cm en largeur et en hauteur pour le même nbre de mailles et rgs, soit 20 m et 26 rgs. Est-ce que je peux me risquer à faire ce cardigan en taille L, avec le fil KARISMA ? Je vous remercie pour votre réponse éventuelle. Cordialement.

02.01.2024 - 00:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ribault, vous pouvez essayer de bloquer votre échantillon pour voir si ça peut changer quelque chose, sinon oui, essayez avec des aiguilles plus grosses pour obtenir le bon échantillon et ainsi les mesures finales (en hauteur et en largeur) comme indiqué dans le schéma. Bon tricot!

02.01.2024 - 12:26

country flag RIBAULT Martine wrote:

Est-ce que ce modèle Country Muse Cardigan est réalisable avec le fil KARISMA. Avec ce fil mon échantillon correspond à 21 m en larg. & 28 rg en haut. pour 10x10 cm, avec une aiguille circulaire 4,5. Si je peux me risquer à utiliser KARISMA pour ce modèle, je choisirais la taille L. Est-ce réalisable ? Le fil KARISMA a une longueur de 100m, un poids de 50grs tout comme le fil LIMA préconisé pour ce modèle. Merci pour votre réponse.

31.12.2023 - 21:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ribault, tout à fait, Lima (ici) et Karisma sont du même groupe de fils B; la tension est ici de 20 mailles x 26 rangs, adaptez la taille de vos aiguilles pour avoir cet échantillon et ainsi les bonnes mesures finales correspondant à celles du schéma. Bon tricot!

02.01.2024 - 11:42

country flag Mascha wrote:

Kann man die Jacke auch in Puna stricken? Oder ist das Garn vielleicht zu weich für eine solche Strickjacke?

20.04.2023 - 20:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Mascha, gerne kann mann diese Jacke auch mit Puna stricken, da beide Garne selbe Garngruppe B sind (versuchen Sie unseren Garnumrechner um die neue Garnmenge kalkulieren zu lassen) - das Ergebnis wird ja etwas verschieden sein, da beide Garne verschiedene Zusammensetzung haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.04.2023 - 07:55

country flag Francine wrote:

Comment décaler les 4 marqueurs des augmentations des épaules pour le cardigan modele drops 216-39 je vous remercie

16.03.2023 - 16:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Francine, les marqueurs doivent désormais se trouver au niveau des flèches dans le diagramme A.1, autrement dit, après les 4 m envers au début de A.1 et avant les 4 m envers à la fin de A.1. Bon tricot!

17.03.2023 - 08:37