DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.00$. Read more.

Follow the Fjord

Knitted sweater in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with saddle shoulders and lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 215-21
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-902
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-100-108-118-130-142 cm = 36 1/4”-39 3/8”-42 1/2”-46 1/2”-51 1/4”-55 3/4”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-750 g color 50, sea green

KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width 26 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch/pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 12 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 4) = 3.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 3rd stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up strand from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up strand from the front and knit stitch in back loop.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round, top down.
Stiches are increased on the yoke for the shoulders front and back, then stitches are increased for the sleeves.
The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves; the body is continued in the round. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 96-104-104-112-120-128 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and Karisma.
Knit 1 round.
Then work rib as follows: Purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and purl 1. Continue this rib for 8½ cm = 3 1/4".
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7.
Insert a marker at the beginning of the round (mid-back). Leave the marker there; THE PIECE IS MEASURED FROM THE MARKER!

YOKE:
On the next round you increase stitches, work pattern and insert 4 markers (between stitches) as follows:
Work A.1 (= 4 stitches) over 16-20-20-20-20-24 stitches (= 4-5-5-5-5-6 times in width = half back piece), insert marker 1, knit 12-12-12-12-16-16 and increase 4-4-8-8-8-8 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1, insert marker 2 (= shoulder), A.1 over the next 36-40-40-44-44-48 stitches (= 9-10-10-11-11-12 times in width = front piece), insert marker 3, knit 12-12-12-12-16-16 and increase 4-4-8-8-8-8 stitches evenly over these stitches, insert marker 4 (= shoulder) and A.1 over the last 20-20-20-24-24-24 stitches (= 5-5-5-6-6-6 times in width = half back piece) = 104-112-120-128-136-144 stitches.

SADDLE SHOULDER INCREASE:
Work stockinette stitch over the shoulder stitches and pattern A.1 over the front and back pieces. On the next round increase for saddle shoulders as follows:
Increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and 1 stitch AFTER markers 2 and 4 - read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). I.e. there are increases
on back piece and front piece, and number of shoulder stitches remain the same.
The increased stitches are worked into A.1 as you go. Pattern A.1 is repeated in height.
Increase like this every round a total of 20-20-24-24-28-28 times = 184-192-216-224-248-256 stitches.
The piece measures approx. 8-8-9-9-11-11 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2"-4 3/8"-4 3/8" from the marker on the neck.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!

SLEEVE INCREASE:
Now increase for the sleeves as follows:
Increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 1 and 3 and 1 stitch BEFORE markers 2 and 4 (= 4 stitches increased). I.e. increase in shoulder stitches, number of stitches in front piece and back piece remains the same.
Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 14-11-13-12-12-14 times = 240-236-268-272-296-312 stitches.
The piece measures approx. 19-16-19-18-20-22 cm = 7 1/2"-6 1/4"-7 1/2"-7"-8"-8 3/4" from the marker.
Continue with stockinette stitch and pattern as before without further increases until the piece measures 19-17-19-19-20-22 cm = 7 1/2"-6 3/4"-7 1/2"-7 1/2"-8"-8 3/4".

YOKE INCREASE:
Now increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker as follows:
Work until 1 stitch remain before markers 1 and 3, increase 1 stitch BEFORE marker, work 1 stitch, move the marker to the right needle and increase 1 stitch AFTER marker.
Work until markers 2 and 4, increase 1 stitch BEFORE marker, move the marker to the right needle, work one stitch and increase 1 stitch AFTER marker (= 8 stitches increased).
The increased stitches on the front and back pieces are worked into pattern A.1 and the increased stitches on the sleeves are worked in stockinette stitch (stitches between markers 1 and 2 and markers 3 and 4).
Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 8-12-12-16-16-16 times = 304-332-364-400-424-440 stitches.
When all the increases are finished, the piece measures 25-26-28-30-32-34 cm = 9 3/4"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12 1/2"-13 3/8" from the marker on the neck.
Now divide the piece for body and sleeves on the next round as follows:
Work the first 44-52-56-60-64-68 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 60-62-70-76-80-84 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-8-8-12 stitches under the sleeve, work 92-104-112-124-132-136 stitches (= front piece), place the next 60-62-70-76-80-84 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-8-8-12 stitches under the sleeve and work the last 48-52-56-64-68-68 stitches (= half back piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately.

BODY:
= 200-224-240-264-280-296 stitches.
Continue with pattern A.1 as before with stockinette stitch over the 8-8-8-8-8-12 stitches cast on under each sleeve. A.1 is repeated 23-26-28-31-33-34 times in width on both the front and the back piece.
When the body measures 22-23-23-23-23-23 cm = 8 3/4"-9"-9"-9"-9"-9", change to circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and work rib as follows:
Purl over purl and knit over the lace pattern and over the 8-8-8-8-8-12 stockinette stitches under the sleeves work as follows: Purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* 1-1-1-1-1-2 times, knit 2 and purl 1.
You now have a rib with knit 2, purl 2 over all stitches.
When the rib measures 7 cm = 2 3/4", bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP!

SLEEVE:
Place the 60-62-70-76-80-84 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm = US 7 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-8-8-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 68-70-78-84-88-96 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. This will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8" from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP.
Repeat this decrease every 6-5-3-2-2-1½ cm = 2 3/8"-2"-1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4"-1/2” a total of 5-5-8-10-11-14 times = 58-60-62-64-66-68 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch until the body measures 33-32-31-30-30-28 cm = 13"-12 1/2"-12 1/4"-11 3/4"-11 3/4"-11" from the division. Knit 1 round where you increase 18-16-18-16-18-16 stitches evenly spaced = 76-76-80-80-84-84 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4.
Work rib (= knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm = 2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 08.09.2020
No errors in pattern corrected, but the text and sketch have been updated to make the construction of the saddle shoulders easier to understand.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knitting direction
symbols = saddle shoulder increase
symbols = sleeve increase
symbols = yoke increase
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (42)

country flag Patricia Ribeiro wrote:

Je tricote le modèle 215-21. Je viens de terminer le col : 104 mailles taille M. J’ai un problème pour réaliser l’empiècement. En effet sur le patron, il est indiqué : tricoter A1 = 4 mailles augmentations 1/2 dos ; toujours A1 augmenter 4 mailles épaule gauche ; idem 8 mailles devant ; à nouveau 4 mailles épaules droite et 4 mailles pour le second 1/2 dos soit au total 24 augmentations. 104 mailles du col + 24 augmentations = 128 mailles correspondant à la taille XL.

04.02.2024 - 21:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ribeiro, tricotez ainsi: 20 m de A.1 pour le demi-dos + (12+4) m pour la manche + 40 m de A.1 pour le devant + (12+4) pour la manche + 20 m de A.1 pour le demi-dos soit: 20+16+40+16+20=112 m (vous aviez 104 m et avez augmenté 2 x 4 m, soit 104 + 8 = 112). Bon tricot!

05.02.2024 - 09:37

country flag Lia De Wind wrote:

Een vraag over de stekenverhouding: Van welke naald gaan jullie uit. Dit staat er namelijk niet bij Vriendelijke groet

01.04.2023 - 19:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lia,

Het proeflapje wordt met naald 4,5 gebreid of de dikste naald. Naald 3,5 is alleen voor de boorden.

05.04.2023 - 10:22

country flag Maja wrote:

I’ve really enjoyed knitting this sweater, but I don’t really like that the sleeves end up really wide at the bottom. Could you suggest an interval for further decreases to make the sleeves a bit more tapered, please? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

21.02.2023 - 22:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Maja, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, maybe you can calculate your own decreases following your own measurements. Feel free to contact your DROPS store for any individual assistance. Thanks for your comprehension. Happy knitting!

22.02.2023 - 08:40

country flag Ragnhild Brudevik wrote:

Strikker str M Antall under «Bærestykke» er feil. Ved setting av merker har vi 20+12+40+12+20=104(ikke 112) Etter økning +4x20=80 har vi da 104+80=184(ikke 192) Hva er riktig??

04.11.2022 - 13:17

country flag Inge Andersen wrote:

Det ser ud til at diagrammet er faldet ud af opskriften, jeg kan ikke finde det. Er der ikke en tekstforklaring til mønsteret?

17.10.2022 - 22:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Inge. Diagram A.1 finner du ved siden av målskissen (under ermet, lite diagram). mbh DROPS Design

24.10.2022 - 14:31

country flag Christy wrote:

It might be helpful if the questions and answers were translated into English (and those in English translated into German or French). That would make them accessible to more of your fans. Thank you for your consideration.

07.03.2022 - 06:44

country flag Cath wrote:

Il semble manquer le diagramme du point fantaisie est-il possible de l’obtenir ?

14.01.2022 - 09:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Cath, vous trouverez le diagramme du point fantaisie (A.1) à droite du schéma des mesures (sous la manche). Bon tricot!

14.01.2022 - 16:32

country flag Kirsten wrote:

Hej Drops-team. Når man tager ud til for-og bagstykke, så tager man 2 masker ud (1 efter og 1 før mærket). Når jeg kommer rundt til samme sted på næste pind, så har jeg øget maskeantallet med 2, men mønsteret strækker sig over 4 masker. Hvordan skal de sidste to masker strikkes? Hvis jeg starter med mønsteret straks efter den nye udtagning, så "mangler" jeg to masker til sidst (f.eks. der, hvor man skal strikke første maske vrang og derefter to masker ret sammen).

03.12.2021 - 11:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kirsten, du strikker de nye masker ind i mønsteret, men først når du har 2 m glatstrik efter hinanden, kan de strikkes sammen ifølge diagrammet. God fornøjelse!

03.12.2021 - 15:42

country flag Stefania wrote:

Non riesco a capire gli aumenti manica: Il lavoro misura circa 19-16-19-18-20-22 cm dal segnapunti. Continuare a maglia rasata e con il motivo come prima senza ulteriori aumenti fino a quando il lavoro misura 19-17-19-19-20-22 cm. Io sto lavorando la taglia L . Quanto deve misurare la parte senza aumenti (B) ? Io ho capito che deve essere 19 cm dalla fine degli aumenti!

25.10.2021 - 21:53

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Stefania, per la taglia L non deve lavorare ulteriormente, ha già la lunghezza corretta. Buon lavoro!

26.10.2021 - 19:49

country flag Simon Erzsébet wrote:

Tisztelt Ügyfélszolgálat, sajnos nem találom a minta leírást (pl. A.1 minta), kéek segítséget. Köszönöm, Erzsébet

28.09.2021 - 21:16

DROPS Design answered:

Kedves Erzsébet, a hiba javításra került, most már láthatónak kell lennie a diagramoknak, és a hozzájuk tartozó magyarázatoknak. Sikeres Kézimunkázást!

01.10.2021 - 17:10