DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pink Petals

Knitted jacket and tights in DROPS BabyMerino. Jacket is knitted top down with leaf pattern, round yoke and A-shape. Tights is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: Premature - 2 years.

DROPS Baby 33-13
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-111-by
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------

FOR THE ENTIRE SET:

Size: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in inches:
(1ft4/1ft5) 1ft7/1ft8 – 1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft)
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(200) 200-250-300-300 (350) g color 26, light old pink

JACKET:

SIZE:
(<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in inches:
(1ft4/1ft5) 1ft7/1ft8 – 1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft)
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 44-48-52-56-60-64 cm = 17¼"-19"-20½"-22"-23⅝"-25¼"
Full length: 25-28-31-34-37-40 cm = 9¾"-11"-12¼"-13⅜"-14½"-16¾"

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(150) 150-150-200-200 (200) g color 26, light old pink
KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
24 stitches in width and 40 rows vertically with leaf pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 40 and 60 cm = 16" and 24".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5: For edges
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5: Length 40 and 60 cm = 16" and 24" for edges
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON Flower (red), NO 617: (5) 5-6-6 7 (7) pieces.

TIGHTS:

SIZE:
(<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in inches:
(1ft4/1ft5) 1ft7/1ft8 – 1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft)
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)

Finished measurements:
Waist measurements: (36) 38-44-50-54 (56-60) cm = (14¼") 15"-17¼"-19¾"-21¼" (22"-23⅝")
Full length: (28) 35-38-44-48 (54-60) cm = (11") 13¾"-15"-17¼"-19" (21¼"-23⅝")

All measurements in chart are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-150-150-150 g color 26, light old pink
ACCESSORIES: approx. 35-50 cm = 13¾"-19¾" elastic

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 40 and 60 cm = 16" and 24".
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller needles.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

More like this:
Baby Baby Cardigans Newborn Sets Baby Trousers & Shorts a-shape assembly free lace leaf pattern round neck round yoke top down

DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge= knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 70 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 13) = 4.6.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 4th and 5th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Do not increase over bands.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase for raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on every increase row).
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side!
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band when garment is worn: 1 buttonhole = work from right side until 3 stitches remain on needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish by knitting 1. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole. Decrease for first buttonhole on first row from right side after A.1. Then decrease the next (4) 4-5-5-6 (6) buttonholes, approx. 5 cm = 2" between each.

TIGHTS:

PATTERN:
See diagram A.4.

INCREASE TIP (applies to gusset mid front and mid back):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Work increased stitches in stockinette stitch till they fit the pattern again.

DECREASE TIP (applies to inside of legs):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

HEEL DECREASE:
Worked back and forth in stockinette stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 1 stitch remains on row, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Slip first stitch purlwise, tighten yarn and purl until 1 stitch remains on row, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Slip first stitch knitwise, tighten yarn and knit until 2 stitches remain on row, turn piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Slip first stitch purlwise, tighten yarn and purl until 2 stitches remains on row, turn piece.
Continue decrease the same way until (6) 7-8-8-7 (8) stitches remain in the middle of row. Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch
Continue in stockinette stitch back and forth but now work 1 stitch more on every turn. NOTE! To avoid holes at the turns, lift the yarn before stitch to be worked and slip it twisted on the left needle. Work the twisted yarn together with stitch before turning piece. Continue like this until all heel stitches have been worked.

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE JACKET HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:

Work yoke and body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on (68) 70-78-82-86 (92) stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 with Baby Merino. Work A.1 with 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, in each side towards mid front. When A.1 has been worked, switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing(15) 13-17-19-21 (21) stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above = (83) 83-95-101-107 (113) stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side inside 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side. Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Work first row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.2 until 6 stitches remain on row (= (12) 12-14-15-16 (17) repetitions of 6 stitches) and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch (to make the pattern the same at beginning and end towards bands) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this and increase and decrease as shown in diagram. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
On row marked with arrow in A.2 adjust number of stitches to (150) 174-182-194-202 (214). Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece (without working the stitches): Insert first marker thread after the first (26) 29-30-32-33 (35) stitches(= front piece), insert 2nd marker thread after the next (28) 34-36-38-40 (42) stitches (= sleeve), insert 3rd marker thread after the next (42) 48-50-54-56 (60) stitches (= back piece) and insert fourth marker thread after the next (28) 34-36-38-40 (42) stitches (= sleeve). There are (26) 29-30-32-33 (35) stitches after last marker thread on front piece.
Then work in stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME on first row (right side) increase for RAGLAN on each side of the 4 marker threads - see explanation above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase like this every other row (i.e. on every row from right side) (3) 3-3-4-4 (4) times in total. After last increase for raglan there are (174) 198-206-226-234 (246) stitches on needle. Work until piece measures (10) 12-13-14-15 (16) cm = (4") 4¾"-5⅛"-5½"-6" (6¼") from cast-on edge mid front. Work next row as follows from wrong side: Work (29) 32-33-36-37 (39) as before (= front piece), slip the next (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), purl (48) 54-56-62-64 (68) (= back piece), slip the next (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the last (29) 32-33-36-37 (39) stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= (114) 126-134-146-154 (162) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread (31) 34-36-39-41 (43) stitches in from each side (= (52) 58-62-68-72 (76) stitches between marker threads on back piece) and move marker threads upwards when working.
Work first row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.3A until (5) 9-9-5-5 (5) stitches remain on row (= (13) 14-15-17-18 (19) repetitions of 8 stitches), work A.3B over the next (0) 4-4-0-0 (0) stitches and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern back and forth like this.
When piece measures 2 cm = ¾" from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every (2) 2½-3-3½-4 (4½) cm = (3/4") 1"-1⅛"-1¼"-1½" (1¾") 5 times in total in each side = (134) 146-154-166-174 (182) stitches- NOTE: Work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch so that there are more stitches between holes in each side of body. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures (10) 11-13-15-17 (19) cm = (4") 4⅜"-5⅛"-6"-6¾" (7½"), continue in stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Work until piece measures (12) 13-15-17-19 (21) cm = (4¾") 5⅛"-6"-6¾"-7½" (8¼") from division.
Work 4 ridges over all stitches. Bind off with picot as explained below.

BIND-OFF EDGE WITH PICOT:
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and work from right side as follows: Knit 1, (* insert right needle in between the first 2 stitches on left needle i.e. between stitches on needle, not through stitches, make 1 yarn over on right needle, pull yarn over forwards between stitches and slip yarn over on to left needle *, repeat from *-* 2 more times = 3 new stitches on left needle. ** Knit first stitch on left needle, pass first stitch on right needle over last stitch worked **), repeat from **-** 5 times in total and repeat from (-) along the entire edge until 1 stitch remains on left needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through last stitch.

SLEEVE:
Slip the (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) new stitches cast on under sleeve = (38) 44-48-52-56 (58) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) stitches. Begin round at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 2 cm = ¾" from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every (2) 2-1½-1½-1½ (1½) cm = (3/4") ¾"-½"-½"-½" (1/2") (2) 4-6-7-9 (9) times in total = (34) 36-36-38-38 (40) stitches. Work until sleeve measures (5) 8-11-13-15 (18) cm = (2") 3⅛"-4⅜"-5⅛"-6" (7") from division. Switch to double pointed needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 and work in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. When sleeves measures (8) 11-14-16-18 (21) cm = (3⅛") 4⅜"-5½"-6¼"-7" (8¼"), bind off with picot the same way as on body. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

----------------------------------------------------------
START THE TIGHTS HERE:
---------------------------------------------------------

TIGHTS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down division for legs. Then work each leg in the round on double pointed needles top down until finished measurements.

WAISTBAND:
Cast on (88) 96-104-120-128 (136) stitches on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with Baby Merino. Work 2 cm = ¾" in stockinette stitch for folding edge. Work next round as follows: * Knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over*, work from *-* the entire round (= folding edge). MEASURE PIECE FROM FOLDING EDGE!
Work 2 cm = ¾" in stockinette stitch. For better fit work an elevation at the back on pants under as explained below.

ELEVATION AT THE BACK - ALL SIZES:
Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round = mid back. Work from right side and knit 8 past marker thread, turn piece, tighten yarn and purl 16 stitches. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 24 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and purl 32 stitches. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 40 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and purl 48 stitches. Turn piece, tighten yarn and knit until mid back.

PANTS:
Work A.4 in the round over all stitches (= (11) 12-13-15-16 (17) repetitions of 8 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! NOTE! On every round marked with star in A.4 displace the beginning of round 1 stitch to the left, i.e. pass the first stitch on to right needle without working stitch, work A.4 in the round. Work stitch passed on to right needle in last repetition of A.4. Begin next round as before.
When piece measures (9) 11-12-15-16 (17) cm = (3½") 4⅜"-4¾"-6"-6¼" (6¾") from folding edge mid front, insert 1 marker thread mid front so that there is 1 marker thread mid front and 1 marker thread mid back (= (44) 48-52-60-64 (68) stitches in each side between marker threads).
Continue A.4 in the round. AT THE SAME TIME on next round increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every other round 8 times in total = (120) 128-136-152-160 (168) stitches. Continue A.4 in the round until piece measures (15) 18-18-21-22 (23) cm = (6") 7"-7"-8¼"-8¾" (9") from folding edge mid front. Now bind off 4 stitches mid front and mid back. Finish each leg separately. Work right leg as explained below.

RIGHT LEG:
= (56) 60-64-72-76 (80) stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5. Insert 1 marker thread at inside of leg, and move the marker thread upwards when working. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!
Begin round at the marker thread and continue A.4 in the round - work in stockinette stitch where repetition does not fit. When 2 rounds have been worked, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread on inside of leg– read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this on every round 6 times in total and then on every other round 4 times in total times and finally every (5th) 6th-6th-6th-7th (7th) round (4) 5-6-8-9 (10) times in total = (28) 30-32-36-38 (40) stitches. Work until piece measures (13) 17-20-23-26 (31) cm = (5⅛") 6¾"-8"-9"-10¼" (12¼") from division. Now work foot as explained below.

FOOT:
= (28) 30-32-36-38 (40) stitches. Keep the first (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches on needle for heel (it is important that the heel does not come mid on top of foot), slip the remaining (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches on a stitch holder (= mid on top of foot).
Work HEEL DECREASE in stockinette stitch - see explanation above.
After heel decrease slip the (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches from stitch holder mid on top of foot back on needles = (28) 30-32-36-38 (40) stitches. Work in stockinette stitch in the round over all stitches. When foot measures (8) 9-10-11-12 (13) cm = (3⅛") 3½"-4"-4⅜"-4¾" (5⅛") from marker on heel (approx. 2 cm = ¾" remain until finished measurements), distribute stitches so that there are (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches both on top of foot and under foot. Insert 1 marker thread in each side. Work in stockinette stitch in the round over all stitches. AT THE SAME TIME on first round decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every other round (4) 4-4-5-5 (5) times in total = (12) 14-16-16-18 (20) stitches remain on needles. Cut the yarn so that it is long enough to sew the piece tog. Place the piece flat and sew the (6) 7-8-8-9 (10) stitches on top of foot against the (6) 7-8-8-9 (10) stitches under foot with grafting/kitchener stitches. Foot measures approx. (10) 11-12-13-14 (15) cm = (4") 4⅜"-4¾"-5⅛"-5½" (6") from marker on heel.
Slip the (56) 60-64-72-76 (80) stitches from stitch holder in the other side of piece back on double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work leg and foot the same way, but make sure that foot is the correct way so that heel does not come mid on top of foot (slip the first (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches on a stitch holder (= mid on top of foot), keep the last (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches on needle for heel).

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the hem over towards wrong side and fasten neatly by sewing, let there be a small opening to thread the elastic through. Thread the elastic through, and sew shut the opening. Sew the 4 stitches that were bind off between legs together.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 21.10.2019
under FOOT: When foot measures (7) 9-10-10-11 (12) cm = (2 3/4") 3 1/2"-4"-4"-4 3/8" (4 3/4") from marker on heel (approx. 2,5-3 cm = 7/8-1 1/8" remain until finished measurements), ....

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
	= increase row
	= displace beginning of round 1 stitch to the left as explained in pattern

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Valentina wrote:

Buonasera sto lavorando il corpo con il modello A3.A bella taglia 6/9 mesi. Quando arrivo alle due maglie che vanno passate insieme per creare il buco, questo motivo viene a livello del segnapunti. Cioè dovrei passare insieme la maglia prima e la maglia dopo il segnapunti. Come posso fare?

21.06.2024 - 19:26

Buonasera sto seguendo il modello A.2 per il cardigan e non mi è chiaro come devo trattare l’ultima maglia lavorata a legaccio dopo le ripetizioni. Sul rovescio devo iniziare con una maglia a legaccio e poi con il modello A.2?

13.06.2024 - 19:56

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Valentina, sul rovescio deve lavorare 1 maglia a legaccio e continuare con A.2. Buon lavoro!

13.06.2024 - 22:31

Josiane wrote:

Bonjour. Gilet taille 2 ans. Sur A2 je tombe bien jusqu au rang 23. Mais au 24 il me manque 1 m de chaque côté de la m centrale soit 2 par motif.\r\nJ ai vérifié j\'ai bien mes 9 trous en hauteur\r\nPouvez vous m\'aider. J\'ai cherché dans les commentaires en français et je n\'ai pas trouvé\r\nMerci

13.04.2024 - 13:49

Bonjour Josiane, au 24ème rang, vous devez avoir 15 mailles dans chaque A.2: 2 m env, 11 m end, 2 m env. Au tour précédent, vous devez avoir 1 jeté pour chacune des 2 diminutions pour ne pas changer le nombre de mailles. Au 25ème rang, vous diminuez 1 maille au début de chaque A.2, puis au 27ème rang vous diminuez 1 m à la fin de chaque A.2 et enfin au 37ème rang vous diminuez 1 m au début de chaque A.2 - il reste 12 m dans chaque A.2. En espérant que cela puisse vous aider. Bon tricot!

15.04.2024 - 07:12

Carmen Arteaga wrote:

Hola estoy tejiendo la chaqueta del patron pink petals en talla

14.02.2024 - 19:10

Hola Carmen, ¿puedes concretar tu pregunta y la talla que estás trabajando?

18.02.2024 - 20:00

Ana wrote:

Lo siento pero sigue sin cuadrarme el gráfico. Si solo se muestran las las líneas del derecho ,las del revés serán como se presentan,o punto bobo. Si la tercera línea es del revés, no puede quedar entre las hojas ni punto bobo ni punto revés. Me rindo. Gracias

11.09.2023 - 16:22

Estoy intentando hacer la talla dos años. Entre hoja y hoja hay , creo, puntos de separación de revés o punto bobo, pero en el gráfico no los veo. Qué hago mal?. Gracias

06.09.2023 - 22:35

Hola Ana, los símbolos del cuadrado blanco y el cuadrado con la raya serían los puntos de derecho o revés que separan las hojas. No hay más puntos aparte de estos.

10.09.2023 - 19:35

Johanna wrote:

Jag färstår inte förskjutningen. "På varje varv markerat med stjärna i A.4 förskjuts varvets början 1 maska till vänster, dvs lyft över första maskan på höger sticka utan att sticka maskan, sticka A.4 runt. Maskan som lyftes över på höger sticka kommer att stickas i sista repetitionen med A.4. Nästa varv börjar som förut." Så var 16e varv kommer starten på varvet vara en maska till vänster? Hur blir det då med avmaskningen mitt fram och bak??

17.04.2023 - 22:20

Hei Johanna. Du har et merke på begynnelsen av omgangen (midt bak). Og når du har strikket 13. og 14. rad, skal midt bak være på det samme stedet som tidligere (ved merket) . mvh DROPS Design

24.04.2023 - 07:34

Cessateur wrote:

Bonjour, je voulais commencer le petit gilet. Je ne comprend pas les explications pour le col. J'ai deux questions, la première les mailles pour le col l'empiècement et le dos/devant sont bien tricotés en aller retour ? Et les manches seulement en rond? Pour la 2eme question, concernant le motif A1, pour la taille 6/9, j'ai monté 82 mailles, fini le motif A1 ( 4 augmentations), puis il faut augmenter 19m, je me retrouve avec 105m au lieu de 101 comment cela se fait?

28.03.2023 - 20:55

Bonjour Mme Cessateur, effectivement, le col et l'empiècement se tricotent en allers et retours, on divise ensuite pour les manches (qui se tricoteront en rond) et on termine le bas du gilet en allers et retours. On ne doit pas augmenter dans A.1, le 3ème rang de A.1 se tricote ainsi (1 jeté, 2 m ens à l'end) entre les mailles de bordure devant (rang ajouré); donc vous avez toujours bien 82 m après A.1 + 19 = 101 m. Bon tricot!

29.03.2023 - 10:11

Elena wrote:

Salve, devo lavorare il sesto giro del diagramma A2 per la taglia 2 anni ma all inizio del giro il diagramma mi da 2 m. (rov dal diritto del lav., diritto dal rov. del lavoro) ma per seguire il disegno io devo lavorare 3 maglie come scritto nelle parentesi e poi mi trovo con il diagramma. Ho sbagliato io qualcosa? Grazie

16.02.2023 - 20:31

Buonasera Elena, la maglia in più è data dall'aumento nel ferro precedente. Buon lavoro!

09.03.2023 - 23:00

Salve, vorrei fare questo modello taglia 2 anni con il filato Safran. Ho visto che appartengono entrambi al gruppo A e volevo sapere se posso seguire le vostre spiegazioni per la taglia 2 anni senza modificare niente. Grazie

13.02.2023 - 19:43

Buonasera Elena, se il suo campione con Safran corrisponde a quello indicato, può lavorare con le stesse indicazioni. Buon lavoro!

13.02.2023 - 20:58

	DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 100% Wool	4.55 $ /50g	Order
	DROPS Baby Merino mix 100% Wool	4.55 $ /50g	Order

	DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 100% Wool 4.55 $ /50g Order
	DROPS Baby Merino mix 100% Wool 4.55 $ /50g Order

Pink Petals

Knitted jacket and tights in DROPS BabyMerino. Jacket is knitted top down with leaf pattern, round yoke and A-shape. Tights is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: Premature - 2 years.

Pattern instructions

Diagram

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 33-13

Comments / Questions (63)

Pink Petals

Knitted jacket and tights in DROPS BabyMerino. Jacket is knitted top down with leaf pattern, round yoke and A-shape. Tights is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: Premature - 2 years.

Diagram explanations

Do you need help with this pattern?