Pink Petals by DROPS Design
Knitted jacket and tights in DROPS BabyMerino. Jacket is knitted top down with leaf pattern, round yoke and A-shape. Tights is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: Premature - 2 years.
Keywords:
a-shape, assembly free, jacket, lace, leaf pattern, long sleeves, newborn set, round neck, round yoke, set, top down, trousers
DROPS Baby 33-13
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-111-by
Yarn group A
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET:
Size: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(200) 200-250-300-300 (350) g colour 26, light old pink
JACKET:
SIZE:
(<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(150) 150-150-200-200 (200) g colour 26, light old pink
KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
24 stitches in width and 40 rows vertically with leaf pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm : Length 40 and 60 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm: For edges
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm: Length 40 and 60 cm for edges
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON Flower (red), NO 617: (5) 5-6-6 7 (7) pieces.
TIGHTS:
SIZE:
(<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour 26, light old pink
ACCESSORIES: approx. 35-50 cm elastic
KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm : Length 40 and 60 cm.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.
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DROPS design: Pattern no bm-111-by
Yarn group A
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET:
Size: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(200) 200-250-300-300 (350) g colour 26, light old pink
JACKET:
SIZE:
(<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(150) 150-150-200-200 (200) g colour 26, light old pink
KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
24 stitches in width and 40 rows vertically with leaf pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm : Length 40 and 60 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm: For edges
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm: Length 40 and 60 cm for edges
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON Flower (red), NO 617: (5) 5-6-6 7 (7) pieces.
TIGHTS:
SIZE:
(<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-150-150-150 g colour 26, light old pink
ACCESSORIES: approx. 35-50 cm elastic
KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm : Length 40 and 60 cm.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:
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JACKET:
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge= knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 70 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 13) = 4.6.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 4th and 5th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Do not increase over bands.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.
RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase for raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on every increase row).
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side!
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band when garment is worn: 1 buttonhole = work from right side until 3 stitches remain on needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish by knitting 1. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole. Decrease for first buttonhole on first row from right side after A.1. Then decrease the next (4) 4-5-5-6 (6) buttonholes, approx. 5 cm between each.
TIGHTS:
PATTERN:
See diagram A.4.
INCREASE TIP (applies to gusset mid front and mid back):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Work increased stitches in stocking stitch till they fit the pattern again.
DECREASE TIP (applies to inside of legs):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
HEEL DECREASE:
Worked back and forth in stocking stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 1 stitch remains on row, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Slip first stitch purlwise, tighten yarn and purl until 1 stitch remains on row, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Slip first stitch knitwise, tighten yarn and knit until 2 stitches remain on row, turn piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Slip first stitch purlwise, tighten yarn and purl until 2 stitches remains on row, turn piece.
Continue decrease the same way until (6) 7-8-8-7 (8) stitches remain in the middle of row. Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch
Continue in stocking stitch back and forth but now work 1 stitch more on every turn. NOTE! To avoid holes at the turns, lift the yarn before stitch to be worked and slip it twisted on the left needle. Work the twisted yarn together with stitch before turning piece. Continue like this until all heel stitches have been worked.
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START THE JACKET HERE:
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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work yoke and body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles, top down.
NECK EDGE:
Cast on (68) 70-78-82-86 (92) stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. Work A.1 with 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, in each side towards mid front. When A.1 has been worked, switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing(15) 13-17-19-21 (21) stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above = (83) 83-95-101-107 (113) stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side inside 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side. Then work yoke as explained below.
YOKE:
Work first row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.2 until 6 stitches remain on row (= (12) 12-14-15-16 (17) repetitions of 6 stitches) and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch (to make the pattern the same at beginning and end towards bands) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this and increase and decrease as shown in diagram. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
On row marked with arrow in A.2 adjust number of stitches to (150) 174-182-194-202 (214). Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece (without working the stitches): Insert first marker thread after the first (26) 29-30-32-33 (35) stitches(= front piece), insert 2nd marker thread after the next (28) 34-36-38-40 (42) stitches (= sleeve), insert 3rd marker thread after the next (42) 48-50-54-56 (60) stitches (= back piece) and insert fourth marker thread after the next (28) 34-36-38-40 (42) stitches (= sleeve). There are (26) 29-30-32-33 (35) stitches after last marker thread on front piece.
Then work in stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME on first row (right side) increase for RAGLAN on each side of the 4 marker threads - see explanation above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase like this every other row (i.e. on every row from right side) (3) 3-3-4-4 (4) times in total. After last increase for raglan there are (174) 198-206-226-234 (246) stitches on needle. Work until piece measures (10) 12-13-14-15 (16) cm from cast-on edge mid front. Work next row as follows from wrong side: Work (29) 32-33-36-37 (39) as before (= front piece), slip the next (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), purl (48) 54-56-62-64 (68) (= back piece), slip the next (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the last (29) 32-33-36-37 (39) stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!
BODY:
= (114) 126-134-146-154 (162) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread (31) 34-36-39-41 (43) stitches in from each side (= (52) 58-62-68-72 (76) stitches between marker threads on back piece) and move marker threads upwards when working.
Work first row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.3A until (5) 9-9-5-5 (5) stitches remain on row (= (13) 14-15-17-18 (19) repetitions of 8 stitches), work A.3B over the next (0) 4-4-0-0 (0) stitches and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern back and forth like this.
When piece measures 2 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every (2) 2½-3-3½-4 (4½) cm 5 times in total in each side = (134) 146-154-166-174 (182) stitches- NOTE: Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch so that there are more stitches between holes in each side of body. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures (10) 11-13-15-17 (19) cm, continue in stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Work until piece measures (12) 13-15-17-19 (21) cm from division.
Work 4 ridges over all stitches. Cast with picot as explained below.
CAST-OFF EDGE WITH PICOT:
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work from right side as follows: Knit 1, (* insert right needle in between the first 2 stitches on left needle i.e. between stitches on needle, not through stitches, make 1 yarn over on right needle, pull yarn over forwards between stitches and slip yarn over on to left needle *, repeat from *-* 2 more times = 3 new stitches on left needle. ** Knit first stitch on left needle, pass first stitch on right needle over last stitch worked **), repeat from **-** 5 times in total and repeat from (-) along the entire edge until 1 stitch remains on left needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through last stitch.
SLEEVE:
Slip the (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) new stitches cast on under sleeve = (38) 44-48-52-56 (58) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) stitches. Begin round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 2 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every (2) 2-1½-1½-1½ (1½) cm (2) 4-6-7-9 (9) times in total = (34) 36-36-38-38 (40) stitches. Work until sleeve measures (5) 8-11-13-15 (18) cm from division. Switch to double pointed needle size 2.5 mm and work in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. When sleeves measures (8) 11-14-16-18 (21) cm, cast off with picot the same way as on body. Work the other sleeve the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.
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START THE TIGHTS HERE:
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TIGHTS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down division for legs. Then work each leg in the round on double pointed needles top down until finished measurements.
WAISTBAND:
Cast on (88) 96-104-120-128 (136) stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with Baby Merino. Work 2 cm in stocking stitch for folding edge. Work next round as follows: * Knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over*, work from *-* the entire round (= folding edge). MEASURE PIECE FROM FOLDING EDGE!
Work 2 cm in stocking stitch. For better fit work an elevation at the back on pants under as explained below.
ELEVATION AT THE BACK - ALL SIZES:
Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round = mid back. Work from right side and knit 8 past marker thread, turn piece, tighten yarn and purl 16 stitches. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 24 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and purl 32 stitches. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 40 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and purl 48 stitches. Turn piece, tighten yarn and knit until mid back.
PANTS:
Work A.4 in the round over all stitches (= (11) 12-13-15-16 (17) repetitions of 8 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! NOTE! On every round marked with star in A.4 displace the beginning of round 1 stitch to the left, i.e. pass the first stitch on to right needle without working stitch, work A.4 in the round. Work stitch passed on to right needle in last repetition of A.4. Begin next round as before.
When piece measures (9) 11-12-15-16 (17) cm from folding edge mid front, insert 1 marker thread mid front so that there is 1 marker thread mid front and 1 marker thread mid back (= (44) 48-52-60-64 (68) stitches in each side between marker threads).
Continue A.4 in the round. AT THE SAME TIME on next round increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every other round 8 times in total = (120) 128-136-152-160 (168) stitches. Continue A.4 in the round until piece measures (15) 18-18-21-22 (23) cm from folding edge mid front. Now cast off 4 stitches mid front and mid back. Finish each leg separately. Work right leg as explained below.
RIGHT LEG:
= (56) 60-64-72-76 (80) stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at inside of leg, and move the marker thread upwards when working. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!
Begin round at the marker thread and continue A.4 in the round - work in stocking stitch where repetition does not fit. When 2 rounds have been worked, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread on inside of leg– read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this on every round 6 times in total and then on every other round 4 times in total times and finally every (5th) 6th-6th-6th-7th (7th) round (4) 5-6-8-9 (10) times in total = (28) 30-32-36-38 (40) stitches. Work until piece measures (13) 17-20-23-26 (31) cm from division. Now work foot as explained below.
FOOT:
= (28) 30-32-36-38 (40) stitches. Keep the first (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches on needle for heel (it is important that the heel does not come mid on top of foot), slip the remaining (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches on a stitch holder (= mid on top of foot).
Work HEEL DECREASE in stocking stitch - see explanation above.
After heel decrease slip the (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches from stitch holder mid on top of foot back on needles = (28) 30-32-36-38 (40) stitches. Work in stocking stitch in the round over all stitches. When foot measures (7) 9-10-10-11 (12) cm from marker on heel (approx. 2,5-3 cm remain until finished measurements), distribute stitches so that there are (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches both on top of foot and under foot. Insert 1 marker thread in each side. Work in stocking stitch in the round over all stitches. AT THE SAME TIME on first round decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every other round (4) 4-4-5-5 (5) times in total = (12) 14-16-16-18 (20) stitches remain on needles. Cut the yarn so that it is long enough to sew the piece tog. Place the piece flat and sew the (6) 7-8-8-9 (10) stitches on top of foot against the (6) 7-8-8-9 (10) stitches under foot with grafting/kitchener stitches. Foot measures approx. (10) 11-12-13-14 (15) cm from marker on heel.
Slip the (56) 60-64-72-76 (80) stitches from stitch holder in the other side of piece back on double pointed needles size 3 mm and work leg and foot the same way, but make sure that foot is the correct way so that heel does not come mid on top of foot (slip the first (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches on a stitch holder (= mid on top of foot), keep the last (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches on needle for heel).
ASSEMBLY:
Fold the hem over towards wrong side and fasten neatly by sewing, let there be a small opening to thread the elastic through. Thread the elastic through, and sew shut the opening.
Sew the 4 stitches that were cast off between legs together.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:
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JACKET:
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge= knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 70 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 13) = 4.6.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 4th and 5th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Do not increase over bands.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.
RAGLAN:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase for raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on every increase row).
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side!
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band when garment is worn: 1 buttonhole = work from right side until 3 stitches remain on needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish by knitting 1. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole. Decrease for first buttonhole on first row from right side after A.1. Then decrease the next (4) 4-5-5-6 (6) buttonholes, approx. 5 cm between each.
TIGHTS:
PATTERN:
See diagram A.4.
INCREASE TIP (applies to gusset mid front and mid back):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Work increased stitches in stocking stitch till they fit the pattern again.
DECREASE TIP (applies to inside of legs):
Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
HEEL DECREASE:
Worked back and forth in stocking stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 1 stitch remains on row, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Slip first stitch purlwise, tighten yarn and purl until 1 stitch remains on row, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Slip first stitch knitwise, tighten yarn and knit until 2 stitches remain on row, turn piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Slip first stitch purlwise, tighten yarn and purl until 2 stitches remains on row, turn piece.
Continue decrease the same way until (6) 7-8-8-7 (8) stitches remain in the middle of row. Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch
Continue in stocking stitch back and forth but now work 1 stitch more on every turn. NOTE! To avoid holes at the turns, lift the yarn before stitch to be worked and slip it twisted on the left needle. Work the twisted yarn together with stitch before turning piece. Continue like this until all heel stitches have been worked.
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START THE JACKET HERE:
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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work yoke and body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles, top down.
NECK EDGE:
Cast on (68) 70-78-82-86 (92) stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. Work A.1 with 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, in each side towards mid front. When A.1 has been worked, switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing(15) 13-17-19-21 (21) stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP-1 and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above = (83) 83-95-101-107 (113) stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side inside 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side. Then work yoke as explained below.
YOKE:
Work first row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.2 until 6 stitches remain on row (= (12) 12-14-15-16 (17) repetitions of 6 stitches) and finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch (to make the pattern the same at beginning and end towards bands) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this and increase and decrease as shown in diagram. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
On row marked with arrow in A.2 adjust number of stitches to (150) 174-182-194-202 (214). Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece (without working the stitches): Insert first marker thread after the first (26) 29-30-32-33 (35) stitches(= front piece), insert 2nd marker thread after the next (28) 34-36-38-40 (42) stitches (= sleeve), insert 3rd marker thread after the next (42) 48-50-54-56 (60) stitches (= back piece) and insert fourth marker thread after the next (28) 34-36-38-40 (42) stitches (= sleeve). There are (26) 29-30-32-33 (35) stitches after last marker thread on front piece.
Then work in stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME on first row (right side) increase for RAGLAN on each side of the 4 marker threads - see explanation above (= 8 stitches increased). Increase like this every other row (i.e. on every row from right side) (3) 3-3-4-4 (4) times in total. After last increase for raglan there are (174) 198-206-226-234 (246) stitches on needle. Work until piece measures (10) 12-13-14-15 (16) cm from cast-on edge mid front. Work next row as follows from wrong side: Work (29) 32-33-36-37 (39) as before (= front piece), slip the next (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), purl (48) 54-56-62-64 (68) (= back piece), slip the next (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the last (29) 32-33-36-37 (39) stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!
BODY:
= (114) 126-134-146-154 (162) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread (31) 34-36-39-41 (43) stitches in from each side (= (52) 58-62-68-72 (76) stitches between marker threads on back piece) and move marker threads upwards when working.
Work first row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.3A until (5) 9-9-5-5 (5) stitches remain on row (= (13) 14-15-17-18 (19) repetitions of 8 stitches), work A.3B over the next (0) 4-4-0-0 (0) stitches and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern back and forth like this.
When piece measures 2 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every (2) 2½-3-3½-4 (4½) cm 5 times in total in each side = (134) 146-154-166-174 (182) stitches- NOTE: Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch so that there are more stitches between holes in each side of body. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures (10) 11-13-15-17 (19) cm, continue in stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Work until piece measures (12) 13-15-17-19 (21) cm from division.
Work 4 ridges over all stitches. Cast with picot as explained below.
CAST-OFF EDGE WITH PICOT:
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work from right side as follows: Knit 1, (* insert right needle in between the first 2 stitches on left needle i.e. between stitches on needle, not through stitches, make 1 yarn over on right needle, pull yarn over forwards between stitches and slip yarn over on to left needle *, repeat from *-* 2 more times = 3 new stitches on left needle. ** Knit first stitch on left needle, pass first stitch on right needle over last stitch worked **), repeat from **-** 5 times in total and repeat from (-) along the entire edge until 1 stitch remains on left needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through last stitch.
SLEEVE:
Slip the (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) new stitches cast on under sleeve = (38) 44-48-52-56 (58) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) stitches. Begin round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 2 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every (2) 2-1½-1½-1½ (1½) cm (2) 4-6-7-9 (9) times in total = (34) 36-36-38-38 (40) stitches. Work until sleeve measures (5) 8-11-13-15 (18) cm from division. Switch to double pointed needle size 2.5 mm and work in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. When sleeves measures (8) 11-14-16-18 (21) cm, cast off with picot the same way as on body. Work the other sleeve the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.
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START THE TIGHTS HERE:
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TIGHTS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down division for legs. Then work each leg in the round on double pointed needles top down until finished measurements.
WAISTBAND:
Cast on (88) 96-104-120-128 (136) stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with Baby Merino. Work 2 cm in stocking stitch for folding edge. Work next round as follows: * Knit 2 together, make 1 yarn over*, work from *-* the entire round (= folding edge). MEASURE PIECE FROM FOLDING EDGE!
Work 2 cm in stocking stitch. For better fit work an elevation at the back on pants under as explained below.
ELEVATION AT THE BACK - ALL SIZES:
Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round = mid back. Work from right side and knit 8 past marker thread, turn piece, tighten yarn and purl 16 stitches. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 24 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and purl 32 stitches. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 40 stitches, turn, tighten yarn and purl 48 stitches. Turn piece, tighten yarn and knit until mid back.
PANTS:
Work A.4 in the round over all stitches (= (11) 12-13-15-16 (17) repetitions of 8 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! NOTE! On every round marked with star in A.4 displace the beginning of round 1 stitch to the left, i.e. pass the first stitch on to right needle without working stitch, work A.4 in the round. Work stitch passed on to right needle in last repetition of A.4. Begin next round as before.
When piece measures (9) 11-12-15-16 (17) cm from folding edge mid front, insert 1 marker thread mid front so that there is 1 marker thread mid front and 1 marker thread mid back (= (44) 48-52-60-64 (68) stitches in each side between marker threads).
Continue A.4 in the round. AT THE SAME TIME on next round increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every other round 8 times in total = (120) 128-136-152-160 (168) stitches. Continue A.4 in the round until piece measures (15) 18-18-21-22 (23) cm from folding edge mid front. Now cast off 4 stitches mid front and mid back. Finish each leg separately. Work right leg as explained below.
RIGHT LEG:
= (56) 60-64-72-76 (80) stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Insert 1 marker thread at inside of leg, and move the marker thread upwards when working. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!
Begin round at the marker thread and continue A.4 in the round - work in stocking stitch where repetition does not fit. When 2 rounds have been worked, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread on inside of leg– read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this on every round 6 times in total and then on every other round 4 times in total times and finally every (5th) 6th-6th-6th-7th (7th) round (4) 5-6-8-9 (10) times in total = (28) 30-32-36-38 (40) stitches. Work until piece measures (13) 17-20-23-26 (31) cm from division. Now work foot as explained below.
FOOT:
= (28) 30-32-36-38 (40) stitches. Keep the first (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches on needle for heel (it is important that the heel does not come mid on top of foot), slip the remaining (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches on a stitch holder (= mid on top of foot).
Work HEEL DECREASE in stocking stitch - see explanation above.
After heel decrease slip the (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches from stitch holder mid on top of foot back on needles = (28) 30-32-36-38 (40) stitches. Work in stocking stitch in the round over all stitches. When foot measures (7) 9-10-10-11 (12) cm from marker on heel (approx. 2,5-3 cm remain until finished measurements), distribute stitches so that there are (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches both on top of foot and under foot. Insert 1 marker thread in each side. Work in stocking stitch in the round over all stitches. AT THE SAME TIME on first round decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every other round (4) 4-4-5-5 (5) times in total = (12) 14-16-16-18 (20) stitches remain on needles. Cut the yarn so that it is long enough to sew the piece tog. Place the piece flat and sew the (6) 7-8-8-9 (10) stitches on top of foot against the (6) 7-8-8-9 (10) stitches under foot with grafting/kitchener stitches. Foot measures approx. (10) 11-12-13-14 (15) cm from marker on heel.
Slip the (56) 60-64-72-76 (80) stitches from stitch holder in the other side of piece back on double pointed needles size 3 mm and work leg and foot the same way, but make sure that foot is the correct way so that heel does not come mid on top of foot (slip the first (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches on a stitch holder (= mid on top of foot), keep the last (14) 15-16-18-19 (20) stitches on needle for heel).
ASSEMBLY:
Fold the hem over towards wrong side and fasten neatly by sewing, let there be a small opening to thread the elastic through. Thread the elastic through, and sew shut the opening.
Sew the 4 stitches that were cast off between legs together.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
Updated online: 21.10.2019
under FOOT:
When foot measures (7) 9-10-10-11 (12) cm from marker on heel (approx. 2,5-3 cm remain until finished measurements), ....
under FOOT:
When foot measures (7) 9-10-10-11 (12) cm from marker on heel (approx. 2,5-3 cm remain until finished measurements), ....
Updated online: 11.11.2020
Correction: Diagrams A.3A and A.3B updated.
Correction: Diagrams A.3A and A.3B updated.
Diagram
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= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side |
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= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side |
|
= knit 2 together |
|
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked |
|
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together |
|
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over |
|
= increase row |
|
= displace beginning of round 1 stitch to the left as explained in pattern |
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
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Lo siento pero sigue sin cuadrarme el gráfico. Si solo se muestran las las líneas del derecho ,las del revés serán como se presentan,o punto bobo. Si la tercera línea es del revés, no puede quedar entre las hojas ni punto bobo ni punto revés. Me rindo. Gracias
11.09.2023 - 16:22Estoy intentando hacer la talla dos años. Entre hoja y hoja hay , creo, puntos de separación de revés o punto bobo, pero en el gráfico no los veo. Qué hago mal?. Gracias
06.09.2023 - 22:35DROPS Design answered:
Hola Ana, los símbolos del cuadrado blanco y el cuadrado con la raya serían los puntos de derecho o revés que separan las hojas. No hay más puntos aparte de estos.
10.09.2023 kl. 19:35Jag färstår inte förskjutningen. "På varje varv markerat med stjärna i A.4 förskjuts varvets början 1 maska till vänster, dvs lyft över första maskan på höger sticka utan att sticka maskan, sticka A.4 runt. Maskan som lyftes över på höger sticka kommer att stickas i sista repetitionen med A.4. Nästa varv börjar som förut." Så var 16e varv kommer starten på varvet vara en maska till vänster? Hur blir det då med avmaskningen mitt fram och bak??
17.04.2023 - 22:20DROPS Design answered:
Hei Johanna. Du har et merke på begynnelsen av omgangen (midt bak). Og når du har strikket 13. og 14. rad, skal midt bak være på det samme stedet som tidligere (ved merket) . mvh DROPS Design
24.04.2023 kl. 07:34Bonjour, je voulais commencer le petit gilet. Je ne comprend pas les explications pour le col. J'ai deux questions, la première les mailles pour le col l'empiècement et le dos/devant sont bien tricotés en aller retour ? Et les manches seulement en rond? Pour la 2eme question, concernant le motif A1, pour la taille 6/9, j'ai monté 82 mailles, fini le motif A1 ( 4 augmentations), puis il faut augmenter 19m, je me retrouve avec 105m au lieu de 101 comment cela se fait?
28.03.2023 - 20:55DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Cessateur, effectivement, le col et l'empiècement se tricotent en allers et retours, on divise ensuite pour les manches (qui se tricoteront en rond) et on termine le bas du gilet en allers et retours. On ne doit pas augmenter dans A.1, le 3ème rang de A.1 se tricote ainsi (1 jeté, 2 m ens à l'end) entre les mailles de bordure devant (rang ajouré); donc vous avez toujours bien 82 m après A.1 + 19 = 101 m. Bon tricot!
29.03.2023 kl. 10:11Salve, devo lavorare il sesto giro del diagramma A2 per la taglia 2 anni ma all inizio del giro il diagramma mi da 2 m. (rov dal diritto del lav., diritto dal rov. del lavoro) ma per seguire il disegno io devo lavorare 3 maglie come scritto nelle parentesi e poi mi trovo con il diagramma. Ho sbagliato io qualcosa? Grazie
16.02.2023 - 20:31DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Elena, la maglia in più è data dall'aumento nel ferro precedente. Buon lavoro!
09.03.2023 kl. 23:00Salve, vorrei fare questo modello taglia 2 anni con il filato Safran. Ho visto che appartengono entrambi al gruppo A e volevo sapere se posso seguire le vostre spiegazioni per la taglia 2 anni senza modificare niente. Grazie
13.02.2023 - 19:43DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Elena, se il suo campione con Safran corrisponde a quello indicato, può lavorare con le stesse indicazioni. Buon lavoro!
13.02.2023 kl. 20:58Hvor meget garn skal jeg bruge til jakken str 6/9 mdr
07.02.2023 - 12:36Hi-Can you please confirm that the pattern for this Jacket uses and begins with chart A2 (not A1 as is printed on Ravelry)? I think this is why I am having such a difficult time . Thanks and Happy Holidays!
23.12.2022 - 17:35DROPS Design answered:
Dear Sharon, A.1 is used for the neck edge and A.2 is used for the yoke of the jacket. The Ravelry page should redirect you to this page, the official version. Happy knitting!
25.12.2022 kl. 20:10While I appreciate your response to my question, I’m still unclear. For the jacket, I am casting on 82 st and immediately beginning pattern A1 (10 are worked in garter for the band). Row 1- 72 stitches are purled. Row2- knit 72 stitches (become 144 with yarn overs ). Row 3-144 st. Row 4-216…. Row 5- 216…. Do I have the wrong A1 pattern?
21.12.2022 - 00:25DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Bobbins, work A.1 as follows on first row (K6 x 15 repeats), on 2nd row (K3, P1, K3) and repeat from (to) a total of 15 times and so on. You will start to increase only on 5th row (from RS: *K3, YO, K1, YO, K2*, work from *-* a total of 15 times., this means you will here increase 2 sts x 15 = 30 sts. Read more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!
21.12.2022 kl. 08:16Please help! I’m an experienced knitter but struggling with starting this sweater. After casting on , I started pattern A1, but the stitch count became so high that my 24” needles aren’t long enough! For examples, the Cast on 82 stitches (-10 for neck edge) quickly becomes 154 and then continues to increase. What am I doing wrong?
19.12.2022 - 16:31DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Bobbins, when working A.1 size 6/9 months, you will first repeat A.1 over 6 sts then increase in each A.1 until there are 15 sts in each A.1 for the leaf pattern then you will start decreasing again (from 21st row) until there are 12 sts in each A.1, so that there will be 5+(12stsx15 repeats)+1+5=191 sts then increase 3 sts to get 194 sts and start then to increase for raglan. Happy knitting!
20.12.2022 kl. 07:47