DROPS Baby / 33 / 8

Truly Wooly by DROPS Design

Knitted suit for baby in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted with textured pattern and hood. Size premature - 4 years

  • Truly Wooly / DROPS Baby 33-8 - Knitted suit for baby in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted with textured pattern and hood. Size premature - 4 years
  • Truly Wooly / DROPS Baby 33-8 - Knitted suit for baby in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Piece is knitted with textured pattern and hood. Size premature - 4 years
DROPS design: Pattern me-069-by
Yarn group B
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Size: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Sizes equivalent to approx. height of child in feet:
(1ft4/1ft5) 1ft7/1ft8 – 1ft10/2ft – 2ft2/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft 3/3ft5)
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: (34) 38-42-46-50 (54-60) cm = (13 3/8") 15"-16 1/2"-18"-19 3/4" (21 1/4"-23 5/8")
Full length: (34) 40-48-58-68 (74-82) = (13 3/8") 15 3/4"-19"-22 3/4"-26 3/4" (29 1/8"-32 1/4")

All measurements in charts are in cm.
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
(200) 250-300-350-400 (400-450) g color 15, light grey green

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically with A.1 = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6, length 60 or 80 cm = 24” or 32”.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON, flower (white), NO 600: (4) 5-6-6-6 (6-7) pieces.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
1 edge stitch in garter stitch = knit stitch from right side and knit stitch from wrong side.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to legs in size 3/4 years):
Increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Work the increased stitches in A.1.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 44 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 14) = 3.1.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 3rd stitch. On next row knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES (bottom up):
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row purl or knit yarn over (depending on where in the diagram you are) to make holes.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures (measured from where legs where put together):
(<0): 5, 10, 15 and 20 cm = 2”, 4”, 6” and 8”
0/1 months: 6, 11, 16, 21 and 26 cm = 2 3/8”,4 3/8”, 8 1/4” and 10 1/4”
1/3 months: 5, 10, 15, 20, 25 and 30 cm = 2”, 4”, 6”, 8”, 9 3/4” and 11 3/4” .
6/9 months: 6, 12, 17, 22, 27 and 32 cm = 2 3/8”, 4 3/4”, 6 3/4”, 8 3/4”, 10 5/8” and 12 1/2”.
12/18 months: 6, 12, 17, 23, 28 and 34 cm = 2 3/8”, 4 3/4”, 6 3/4”, 9”, 13 3/8”.
2 years: 9, 15, 21, 27, 33 and 39 cm = 3 1/2”, 6”, 8 1/4”, 9 1/2”, 10 5/8” and 15 1/4”.
3/4 years: 7, 13, 19, 25, 31, 37 and 43 cm = 2 3/4”, 5 1/8”, 7 1/2”, 9 3/4”, 12 1/4”, 14 1/2” and 17”

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SUIT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work each leg back and forth on circular needle, bottom up. Place legs together and work back and forth on circular needle from mid front up to sleeves. Then cast on new stitches for sleeves in each side and finish front pieces and back piece separately. Sew piece together on the shoulder. Finish by picking up stitches around the neck and work a hood.

RIGHT LEG (when suit is worn):
Cast on (32) 36-40-40-44 (44-48) stitches on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 with Merino Extra Fine. Work first row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, work A.1A until 3 stitches remain on row (= 7-8-9-9-10 (10-11) repetitions of 4 stitches), work A.1B (= 2 stitches) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”, insert 1 marker in piece (marks fold). When piece measures 14 cm = 5 1/2” (only applies to size 3/4 years) increase 1 stitch in each side – read INCREASE TIP-1 (do not increase in the other sizes). Repeat increase in size 3/4 years when piece measures 24 cm = 9 1/2” = (32) 36-40-40-44 (44-52) stitches on needle. Work until piece measures (12) 12-16-23-31 (32-35) cm = (4 3/4”) 4 3/4”-6 1/4”-9”-12 1/4” (12 1/2”-12 3/4”) from cast-on edge, adjust so that next row is worked from right side.
Bind off 1 stitch at beginning of the next 2 rows (i.e. bind off edge stitches) = (30) 34-38-38-42 (42-50) stitches. Then work the next 2 rows as follows, begin from right side: Work as before over all stitches and cast on (3) 3-3-5-5 (7-7) new stitches at the end of row (= mid back). Turn piece, work A.1 as before over all stitches, but make sure to continue pattern correctly, then cast on (4) 4-4-6-6 (8-8) stitches at the end of row from wrong side (= mid front). There are now (37) 41-45-49-53 (57-65) stitches on needle and piece measures approx. (13) 13-17-24-32 (33-36) cm = (5 1/8”) 5 1/8”-6 3/4”-9 1/2”-12 1/2” (13”-14 1/4”) from cast-on edge. Put piece aside and work left leg as explained below.

LEFT LEG (when suit is worn):
Cast on (32) 36-40-40-44 (44-48) stitches on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work first row as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1A until 3 stitches remain on row (= 7-8-9-9-10 (10-11) repetitions of 4 stitches), work A.1B (= 2 stitches) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”, insert 1 marker in piece (marks fold). When piece measures 14 cm = 5 1/2” (only applies to size 3/4 years) increase 1 stitch in each side – remember INCREASE TIP-1 (do not increase in the other sizes). Repeat increase in size 3/4 years when piece measures 24 cm = 9 1/2” = (32) 36-40-40-44 (44-52) stitches on needle. Work until piece measures (12) 12-16-23-31 (32-35) cm = (4 3/4”) 4 3/4”-6 1/4”-9”-12 1/4” (12 1/2”-12 3/4”) from cast-on edge, adjust so that next row is worked from right side. Bind off 1 stitch at beginning of the next 2 rows (i.e. bind off edge stitches) = (30) 34-38-38-42 (42-50) stitches. Then work the next 2 rows as follows, begin from right side: Work as before over all stitches and cast on (4) 4-4-6-6 (8-8) new stitches at the end of row (= mid front). Turn piece, work A.1 as before over all stitches, but make sure to continue pattern correctly, then cast on (3) 3-3-5-5 (7-7) stitches at the end of row from wrong side (= mid back). There are now (37) 41-45-49-53 (57-65) stitches on needle and piece measures approx. (13) 13-17-24-32 (33-36) cm = (5 1/8”) 5 1/8”-6 3/4”-9 1/2”-12 1/2” (13”-14 1/4”) from cast-on edge. Cut the yarn. Now place the parts together as explained below.

BODY:
Place right leg and left leg on same circular needle with right leg first. Begin from right side on right leg, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, continue A.1 as before over the remaining stitches on right leg (make sure to continue pattern correct according to finish on leg), then continue pattern over the first (36) 40-44-48-52 (56-64) stitches on left leg (make sure to continue pattern correct) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = (74) 82-90-98-106 (114-130) stitches on needle.
Insert another marker in piece! NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM THIS MARKER!
Continue A.1 back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side towards mid front.
When piece measures (3) 3-3-3-4 (5-5) cm = (1 1/8”) 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2” (2”-2”) from marker (adjust to work next row from right side) bind off 1 stitch at beginning of the next 2 rows (i.e. bind off edge stitches). Then work the next 2 rows as follows, begin from right side: Work as before over all stitches and cast on 3 new stitches at the end of row (= left band at the front). Turn piece, work A.1 as before over all stitches (make sure to continue pattern correctly) and cast on 3 new stitches at the end of row from wrong side (= right band at the front).
There are now (78) 86-94-102-110 (118-134) stitches on needle. Continue A.1 back and forth over all stitches (i.e. do not work edge stitches in garter stitch). Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above.
When piece measures (15) 20-24-27-28 (32-36) cm = (6”) 8”-9 1/2”-10 5/8”-11” (12 1/2”-12 1/4”) from the new marker, i.e. (28) 33-41-51-60 (65-72) cm = (11”) 12”-16 1/8”-20”-23 5/8” (25 1/2”-28 3/4”) from cast-on edge, divide the piece in each side. Finish front pieces and back piece separately as explained below.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Begin from right side and work as before over the first (21) 23-25-27-29 (31-35) stitches, then cast on (9) 13-13-17-17 (21-25) new stitches for sleeve. Slip the remaining stitches on 1 stitch holder for back piece and left front piece.
Continue A.1 back and forth as before but make sure that pattern fits over all stitches. AT THE SAME TIME cast on (8) 10-14-14-16 (20-22) new stitches for sleeve at the end of the next 2 rows from right side = (46) 56-66-72-78 (92-104) stitches on needle.
Continue pattern back and forth over all stitches until piece measures (22) 28-32-35-36 (41-45) cm = (8 3/4”) 11”-12 1/2”-12 3/4”-14 1/4” (16 1/8”-17 3/4”) from marker, i.e. (35) 41-49-59-68 (74-81) cm = (13 3/4”) 16 1/8”-19 1/4”-23 1/4” (29 1/8”-32” from cast-on edge.
At the beginning of next row from right side slip the first (8) 8-9-11-11 (12-12) stitches on 1 stitch holder for neck but to avoid cutting the yarn work them before slipping them on the stitch holder. Continue pattern back and forth as before and bind off for neck at the beginning of every row from mid front as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch (1) 1-2-2-2 (3-3) times = (35) 45-53-57-63 (75-87) stitches remain on needle. Then work until the entire suit measures approx. (24) 30-34-37-39 (44-49) cm = (9 1/2”) 11 3/8”-13 3/8”-14 1/2”-15 1/4” (17 1/4”-19 1/4”) from marker, i.e. (37) 43-51-61-71 (77-85) cm = (14 1/2”) 17”-20”-24”-28” (30 3/8”-33 1/2”) from cast-on edge, but adjust so that next row is worked from right side. Work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches. Then bind off by knitting from the right side. The entire suit measures approx. (38) 44-52-62-72 (78-86) cm = (15”) 17 1/4”-20 1/2”-24 3/8”-28 3/8” (30 3/4”-33 7/8”) from cast-on edge. Now work back piece as explained below.

BACK PIECE:
Slip the first (36) 40-44-48-52 (56-64) stitches on stitch holder (seen from right side) on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and continue A.1 back and forth over these stitches as before. AT THE SAME TIME cast on new stitches for sleeves at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on (9) 13-13-17-17 (21-25) stitches 1 time in each side and then (8) 10-14-14-16 (20-22) stitches 2 times in each side = (86) 106-126-138-150 (178-202) stitches on needle. Continue pattern back and forth over all stitches until piece measures (23) 29-33-36-38 (43-48) cm = (9”) 11 3/8”-13”-14 1/4”-15” (17”-19”) from marker). On next row bind off the middle (12) 12-16-20-20 (24-24) stitches for neck and finish each shoulder/sleeve separately. Then bind off 2 stitches on next row from neck = (35) 45-53-57-63 (75-87) stitches remain on needle for shoulder/sleeve. Then work until the entire suit measures approx. (24) 30-34-37-39 (44-49) cm = (9 1/2”) 11 3/4”-13 3/8”-14 1/2”-15 1/4” (17 1/4”-19 1/4”) from marker, but adjust according to front piece and make sure that next row is from right side. Work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches. Then bind off by knitting from the right side. Work the other shoulder/sleeve the same way. Then work left front piece as explained below.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Slip the remaining (21) 23-25-27-29 (31-35) stitches on stitch holder back on needle size 4 mm = US 6. Begin from right side and continue A.1 back and forth as before. AT THE SAME TIME cast on new stitches for sleeve at the end of the next 3 rows from wrong side as follows: Cast on (9) 13-13-17-17 (21-25) stitches 1 time and then (8) 10-14-14-16 (20-22) stitches 2 times = (46) 56-66-72-78 (92-104) stitches on needle.
Continue pattern back and forth over all stitches until piece measures the same as right front piece.
At the beginning of next row from wrong side slip the first (8) 8-9-11-11 (12-12) stitches on 1 stitch holder for neck but to avoid cutting the yarn work them before slipping them on the stitch holder. Continue pattern back and forth as before and bind off for neck at the beginning of every row from mid front as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch (1) 1-2-2-2 (3-3) times = (35) 45-53-57-63 (75-87) stitches remain on needle. Then work until the entire suit measures approx. (24) 30-34-37-39 (44-49) cm = (9 1/2”) 11 3/4”-13 3/8”-14 1/2”-15 1/4” (17 1/4”-19 1/4”) from marker, i.e. (37) 43-51-61-71 (77-85) cm = (14 1/2”) 17”-20”-24”-28” (30 3/8”-33 1/2”) from cast-on edge, but measure so that next row is worked from right side. Work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches. Then bind off by knitting from the right side. The entire suit measures approx. (38) 44-52-62-72 (78-86) cm = (15”) 17 1/4”-20 1/2”-24 3/8”-28 3/8” (30 3/4”-33 7/8”) from cast-on edge.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside bind-off edges. Sew the seams under the sleeve.
Sew seam on inside of both legs inside 1 edge stitch in each side. Sew seam mid front from bottom of band and down inside 1 edge stitch in each side. Sew together the opening between the legs. Fold the end of legs at the marker. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

HOOD:
Pick up from right side approx. 44 to 70 stitches around the neck (including stitches on stitch holders at the front). Knit 1 row from wrong side while increasing evenly to (58) 70-74-74-78 (86-86) stitches – read INCREASE TIP-2. Knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Work next row as follows from right side: Work A.1A until 2 stitches remain on needle and finish with A.1B (= 2 stitches). Continue pattern like this until piece measures (17) 18-19-20-21 (22-23) cm = (6 3/4”) 7”-7 1/2”-8”-8 1/4” (8 1/4”-9”) from ridge in the neck, but adjust so that next row is from right side. Work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches. Then bind off by knitting from the right side. Place the hood double and sew seam at the top inside bind-off edge.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 04.09.2019
New yarn amount in size 6/9 months - 350 g.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 33-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (114)

country flag Esther 15.05.2021 - 22:35:

Hoi, ik heb de rechter en linkerpijp gebreid. Als ik deze samen op een rondbreinaald zet, klopt het dan dat de 6 steken die ik gemeerderd heb (6/9 maanden) aan de buitenkant zitten en de 5 steken die gemeerderd zijn aan de binnenkant zitten? Ik kom dan namelijk niet goed uit met het breien van A1 als ik de steken van het patroon op de naald volg. Dank alvast voor de hulp.

country flag Britta 09.04.2021 - 16:41:

Wie bereits mehrfach geschrieben, bei Größe 1-3 Monate sind 250 gr nicht genug. Bitte in den Garnangaben ändern 😊

country flag Hege Lundeby 31.03.2021 - 22:27:

Når jeg strikker sammen beina på størrelse 6_9 mnd skal det være seks nye masker på slutten og begynnelsen. Siden jeg har felt de gamle rillemaskene i enden, og skal starte med en ny rillekantemaske, så går jo ikke mønsteret oppi starten. Er dette riktig? ( jeg starter på retten men en rett, en vrang, deretter to rett to rang, og en en igjen til slutten)

user icon DROPS Design 10.05.2021 kl. 15:16:

Hei Hege. Når du har lagt opp de nye maskene, bare pass på å justere det slik at de passer inn i mønstert (med 2 rett /2 vrang). mvh DROPS design

country flag Sigurveig Hreinsdóttir 31.03.2021 - 16:28:

Það vantar í uppskrift hversu langt á að vera milli hnappagata..?

user icon DROPS Design 02.04.2021 kl. 12:31:

Blessuð Sigurveig. Ef þú ferð ofar í uppskriftina í dálkinn HNAPPAGAT þá sérðu hvar hnappagötin eru staðsett. Gangi þér vel.

country flag Karin 19.02.2021 - 13:25:

Hallo kann man die Beine nicht mit dem Nadelspiel ohne Naht stricken?

country flag Katharina 19.02.2021 - 09:17:

Ich bin gerade dabei das linke und rechte Bein zu stricken. Wenn ich in Reihen Muster A1A und A1B stricken, habe ich immer vier "gleiche"Maschen hintereinander, d.h. entweder 4 rechte oder vier linke (je nachdem ob Hin- oder Rückreihe). wenn ich nun rechtes und linkes abein zusammenfüge, sind beim rechten Bein diese vier gleichen Maschen an der inneren Mitte, beim linken Bein an der hinteren Mitte. Ist dies so gewollt?

user icon DROPS Design 19.02.2021 kl. 10:14:

Liebe Katharina, Muster sollte die ganze Reihe stimmen, es sind jetzt in der Mitte von Rückenteil 6 neuen Masche, die sollten Sie 2 re, 2 li, 2 re stricken oder 2 li, 2 re, 2 li stricken, je nach der letzten Maschen von rechten Bein (letze Maschen in A.1B) und der ersten Masche von linken Bein. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Pernille Nymann 11.02.2021 - 19:08:

Har købt 250 g som der står man skal bruge på str 1/3 mdr af forhandler på nettet. Der er ikke nok garn. Kan nu se flere skriver de også mangler. Det er godt nok ærgerligt i ikke har rettet i opskriften. Jeg har nu en dragt jeg ikke kan strikke færdig.

country flag Vanessa 31.01.2021 - 15:16:

Hallo, ich benötige Hilfe zum rechten Vorderteil. Ich bin an der folgenden Stelle: Im Muster hin und zurück wie zuvor weiterstricken und dabei für den Halsausschnitt am Anfang jeder Reihe, die am Halsrand beginnt, wie folgt abketten. Muss ich danach nur einmal 3 Maschen (0/1 M.) abketten, oder kette ich tatsächlich bei jeder Hinreihe jeweils 3 M ab? Wie viele M sind dann noch auf der Nadel, bevor ich die restlichen M abkette, oder ist das irrelevant und nur von der Gesamtlänge abhängig? VG

country flag Elisabeth 12.01.2021 - 20:52:

I'm currently knitting size 1/3 months and just had to order more yarn because 250g is not enough to finish the hood. I'm lucky that the shop still has the same dyelot. So better buy 300g.

country flag Emmy 29.12.2020 - 17:34:

Hej, sliter lite med att förså hur jag skal gå till väga med benen. Då det ökas 6 maskor på ena sidan och 5 på andra (storlek 6-9mnd) så får arbetet ett udda tal. 1. Skal kantmaskorna fortfarande gälla? 2. Mönstret kräver ett jämnt antall maskor för att bli komplett, skal de då vara "ett halvt mönster" med bara en maska på ena sidan? Eller kan man göra två kantmaskor på den ojämna sidan?

user icon DROPS Design 14.01.2021 kl. 12:32:

Hej Emmy, jo om du lägger upp nya maskor i varje sida och sätter det andra benet på stickan, så har du nu 1 kantm i varje sida av mitt fram. Du fortsätter mönstret över det tidigare mönster och fortsätter med de nya maskor. Det bör stämma, men gör inget om du avslutar med 1 maska från mönstret. Lycka till :)

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