Narvik by DROPS Design

Knitted children’s sweater in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern on yoke. Sizes 2 – 12 years.

  • Narvik / DROPS Children 32-12 - Knitted children’s sweater in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern on yoke. Sizes 2 – 12 years.
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-076-bn
Yarn group B
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Sizes: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Sizes equivalent to approx height of child in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Sizes equivalent to approx height of child in feet:
3ft - 3ft3/3ft5 - 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9 - 4ft5/4ft7 - 4ft9/4ft12

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 66-72-76-80-82-86 cm = 26"-28 3/8"-29 1/2"-31 1/2"-32 1/4"-33 7/8"
Full length: 38-42-46-50-54-58 cm = 15"-16 1/2"-18"-19 3/4"-21 1/4"-22 3/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-250-300-300-350-400 g color 44, light grey
50-100-100-100-100-100 g color 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 48, wine red

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6 (in the 3 smallest sizes): length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6 (in the 3 largest sizes): length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5 (in the 3 smallest sizes): length 40 cm = 16”” and 60 cm = 24” for rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5 (in the 3 largest sizes): length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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ELEVATION (back of neck):
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation; the neck will then be the same front and back.
Insert 1 marker in the first stitch at the beginning of the round (= mid back). Start from the right side with light grey and knit 12-13-14-14-15-16 stitches past the stitch with marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 25-27-29-29-31-33 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 37-40-43-43-46-49 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 49-53-57-57-61-65 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 61-66-71-71-76-81 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 73-79-85-85-91-97 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit to mid back. Then work YOKE as described in the text.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2 (A.2 applies only to sizes 2 and 3/4 years). Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP (for Nordic pattern):
To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working pattern it is important that the strands at the back of the piece are not tight. You can use a larger needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 81 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 21) = 3.9.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck, yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 81-84-87-90-93-96 stitches with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and wine red. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 2) for approx. 2-2½ cm = 3/4"-1". Knit 1 round where you increase 21-24-27-30-33-36 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 102-108-114-120-126-132 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6.
You can now work an elevation in the back of the neck so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck is then the same front and back – work ELEVATION – read description above, or go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Read KNITTING TIP! Work A.1 in the round (= 17-18-19-20-21-22 repeats of 6 stitches).
AT THE SAME TIME on each round marked with an arrow in A.1 increase evenly spaced as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE and INCREASE TIP-1.
Arrow-1: Increase 10-12-14-16-18-20 stitches evenly on round = 112-120-128-136-144-152 stitches (there is now room for 14-15-16-17-18-19 repeats of 8 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 24-32-32-40-32-40 stitches evenly on round = 136-152-160-176-176-192 stitches (there is now room for 17-19-20-22-22-24 repeats of 8 stitches – NOTE: Make sure you work the increases between arrow-2 and arrow-3 as shown in the diagram).
Arrow-3: There are now 170-190-200-220-220-240 stitches on the needle. Increase 22-18-24-20-32-30 stitches evenly on this round = 192-208-224-240-252-270 stitches (there is now room for 12-13-14-15-14-15 repeats of 16-16-16-16-18-18 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 18-26-16-6-6-6 stitches evenly on round = 210-234-240-246-258-276 stitches.
When A.1 has been completed the piece measures approx. 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm = 6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7 1/2"-8" from the cast-on edge and down mid front. If the piece is shorter than this you can work stockinette stitch with light grey to the right length.
The next round is worked as follows with light grey: Knit 32-35-37-38-40-43 stitches (= ½ back piece), place the next 42-48-47-48-50-53 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-6 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), knit 63-69-73-75-79-85 stitches (= front piece), place the next 42-48-47-48-50-53 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-6 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), and knit the remaining 31-34-36-37-39-42 stitches (= ½ back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 138-150-158-166-174-182 stitches. Then work as follows:

SIZES 2 and 3/4 years:
Knit 1 round with light grey. Then work A.2 in the round (= 23-25 repeats of 6 stitches). Continue this pattern. When A.2 has been completed, work stockinette stitch with light grey until the piece measures 17-20 cm = 6 3/4"-8" from the division. Then work RIB as described below.

SIZES 5/6, 7/8, 9/10 and 11/12 years:
Work stockinette stitch in the round with light grey until the piece measures 23-26-29-32 cm = 9"-10 1/4"-11 3/8"-12 1/2" from the division. Then work RIB as described below.

RIB:
Knit 1 round where you increase 30-33-34-35-39-43 stitches evenly on round – remember INCREASE TIP-1 = 168-183-192-201-213-225 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but make sure that the bind-off edge is not tight. The sweater measures approx. 38-42-46-50-54-58 cm = 15"-16 1/2"-18"-19 3/4"-21 1/4"-22 3/4" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 42-48-47-48-50-53 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-6 stitches cast on under the sleeves = 48-54-53-56-58-59 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-6 stitches under the sleeve and allow it to follow your work onwards. The marker thread will be used a little later when decreasing under the sleeve.

SIZES 2 and 3/4 years:
Start the round at the marker thread and knit 1 round with light grey. Then work A.2 in the round (= 8-9 repeats of 6 stitches). When A.2 has been completed continue with light grey as described under ALL SIZES.

SIZES 5/6, 7/8, 9/10 and 11/12 years:
Start the round at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round with light grey. Continue as described under ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 2-2-2-3-3-3 cm = 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 3-2½-3½-4-4-4½ cm = 1 1/8"-1"-1 1/4"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 5/8" a total of 6-8-7-7-8-8 times = 36-38-39-42-42-43 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 19-22-26-31-35-38 cm = 7 1/2"-8 3/4"-10 1/4"-12 1/4"-13 3/4"-15" from the division. Knit 1 round where you increase 0-1-3-3-6-5 stitches evenly on round = 36-39-42-45-48-48 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5. Work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 2) for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Then bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but make sure that the bind-off edge is not tight. The sleeve measures approx. 23-26-30-35-39-42 cm = 9"-10 1/4"-11 3/4"-13 3/4"-15 1/4"-16 1/2" from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = light grey
symbols = off white
symbols = wine red
symbols = start on this row in your size
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with the background colour in the pattern stripe; on the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = increase round
diagram
diagram
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diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 32-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

country flag PRESCHEY Véronique 02.03.2021 - 11:07:

Bonjour, je voudrais savoir ce que vous entendez par " RÉHAUSSE (encolure dos): Sauter ce paragraphe si on ne veut pas de réhausse " Merci pour votre retour

user icon DROPS Design 02.03.2021 kl. 13:01:

Bonjour Mme Preschey, pour que l'encolure dos soit plus haute que celle du devant, on peut tricoter des rangs raccourcis dans le dos = une réhausse (voir vidéo) - si on ne la fait pas, l'encolure dos et devant seront alors identiques. Bon tricot!

country flag Lene Grue 31.01.2021 - 21:24:

Jeg strikker str. 5/6. Skal udtagningerne passe midt bag når jeg begynder at strikke kryds mønsteret eller skal man bare prøve at få det til at passe. Når jeg tager ud efter hver 15 maske er der ikke 15 masker tilbage mellem udtagningerne når jeg når frem til midt bag.

user icon DROPS Design 08.02.2021 kl. 10:31:

Hei Lene. Er det ved 3. pil du er? Før det store krysset? Du har 200 masker og skal øke jevnt 24 masker på omgangen = 224 masker. Du må da øke ca 8 ganger etter 9 masker og 16 ganger etter 8 masker for å få en jevn økning. mvh DROPS design

country flag Maria Linghammar 31.01.2021 - 18:35:

Hej, i mönstret st 92 står vid Pil-2: Öka 24 maskor jämnt fördelat = 136 maskor (det finns nu plats för 17 rapporter à 8 maskor – OBS: Se till att få med ökningarna mellan pil-2 och pil-3 som är intecknade i diagrammen). När jag stickat detta har jag 138 maskor på rundstickan och inte 170 som det står vid förklaring för Pil-3: Det är nu 170 maskor på varvfördelat...Vad har jag missat? Har läst och läst, men har fastnat här! Vänliga hälsningar Maria Linghammar

user icon DROPS Design 02.02.2021 kl. 11:01:

Hej Maria. På varv 19 har du ett omslag inritat i början, vilket innebär att du gör ett omslag varje gång du börjar diagrammet. Diagrammet upprepas 17 gånger på ett varv så på det varvet ökar du alltså 17 maskor. Samma sak på varv 21 där du har ett omslag i slutet av diagrammet på det varvet. 136+17+17= 170m. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Patricia 10.11.2020 - 13:35:

Peut être que les personnes ne vous remonte pas le problème. J'ai eu quelques retour sur Facebook en posant la question. Bien cordialement

country flag Patricia 07.11.2020 - 17:03:

BonjourLe modèle Narvik est le deuxième modèle de pull norvégien pour enfant que je tricote sur ce site Très très gros problème de taille. Pour le col (une fois n'est pas coutume) il m'a fallu monter les mailles en taille 12 ans pour un enfant de 4 ans !!! . Mon échantillon était parfait pourtant. Il faut ensuite se "débrouiller" pour tricoter le corps du pull pour obtenir une taille acceptable. Que se passe t'il avec vos explications ?? Vous ne testez pas vos modèles avant ?

user icon DROPS Design 09.11.2020 kl. 12:12:

Bonjour Patricia, nous n'avons eu aucun retour similaire jusqu'à présent malgré le succès de ce modèle - le nombre de mailles indiqué ici correspond approximativement à ceux de même taille dans des modèles de même tension. Votre commentaire sera transmis à nos stylites pour une ultime vérification. Bonne continuation!

country flag Bjørg 17.06.2020 - 20:12:

Hei Hvor er mønstret til 2år blitt av?

user icon DROPS Design 18.06.2020 kl. 09:20:

Hej. De 2 översta diagrammen gäller strl 2 år och 3/4 år. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Macarena 07.04.2020 - 15:46:

Hola! Teji este patrón y me quedó muy bien, con la a Merino extra fine. Sin embargo al bloquear se agrandó más de dos tallas (de la talla 6 a la talla 10) nunca me había pasado algo así! Quisiera saber si es la lana que nunca la había utilizado o si tienen alguna razón (bloquee con agua temperatura ambiente, con jabón neutro) muchas gracias!

user icon DROPS Design 23.04.2020 kl. 20:52:

Hola Macarena. Esta calidad se usa mucho en las prendas para niños y adultos y no tenemos pruebas de que las pendas se deformen con los lavados. Una de las cosas que podría haber pasado, es que tuvieras la tensión del tejido un poco floja y, al absorber el agua, la prenda se deformó.

country flag Els Hoiting 14.01.2020 - 16:35:

Geweldig patroon en goede uitleg, makkelijk te volgen.

country flag María José Lacasa 07.11.2019 - 15:55:

Buenas tardes. Ustedes me pueden proporcionar las lanas y agujas necesarias para confeccionar el jersey Narvik para una talla 5 Años

user icon DROPS Design 10.11.2019 kl. 17:05:

Hola María Jose. Nosostros no vendemos directamente el material. Todo lo necesario para elaborar el modelo puedes adquirirlo en nuestras tiendas especializadas: https://www.garnstudio.com/findastore.php?id=23&cid=23

country flag Marie Borg 22.04.2019 - 21:13:

Hej, skulle vilja ha hjälp med att öka mönstret till 13 år. Stickat en Stl M och vill nu sticka till barnbarnet.

user icon DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 14:22:

Hej, tyvärr har vi inte kapacitet till detta. Du får god hjälp ifall du frågar hos närmaste DROPS-återförsäljare.

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