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Simple Mind Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan in 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with seed stitch. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: jacket, long sleeves, madame, raglan, round neck, seed st, top down

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DROPS 197-34
DROPS Design: Pattern no ks-136
Yarn group A + A + A or D
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-125-150-150 g color 05, heather
100-125-125-125-150-150 g color 12, beige
100-125-125-125-150-150 g color 15, dark brown

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
14 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with seed stitch and 3 strands Kid-Silk = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM / US 10: for seed stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM / US 10: length 40 cm and 80 cm/16" and 32" for seed stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM / US 8: for rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM / US 8: length 80 cm/32" for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 5-5-5-5-6-6 items.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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75% Mohair, 25% Silk 		from 5.30 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.30 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.30 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 63.60$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.
The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

SEED STITCH (double height):
ROW/ROUND 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-*.
ROW/ROUND 2: Knit over knit and purl over purl.
ROW/ROUND 3: Purl over knit and knit over purl.
ROW/ROUND 4: As row/round 2.
Repeats rows/rounds 1 to 4 onwards.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of each A.1 (= 8 stitches increased on row).
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in seed stitch (double height).

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 74 stitches) minus the bands (e.g.10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 7) = 9.4. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 9th and 10th stitch. Do not increase over the bands. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the stitch with the marker as follows: Work until there are 4 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, 4 stitches in seed stitch (marker sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).


BUTTONHOLES (top down):
Work buttonholes on right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = Work from the right side until there are 3 stitches left on the row, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib in the neck measures approx. 3 cm / 1''. Then work the next 4-4-4-4-5-5 buttonholes with approx. 10 cm / 4'' between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. The whole piece is worked with 3 strands Kid-Silk.

NECK:
Cast on 74-78-82-82-86-94 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and 1 strand Kid-Silk in each color (= 3 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Now work rib from the right side as follows: 4 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read description above, (knit 2 / purl 2) until there are 6 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and then 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the rib like this until the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' – Remember BUTTONHOLES! Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 7 stitches evenly on row – read INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced) = 81-85-89-89-93-101 stitches. Knit 1 row back from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10.

YOKE:
Now work pattern from the right side as follows: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, 8-9-10-10-11-13 stitches in SEED STITCH (double height) – read description above, (= left front piece), 1 yarn over, A.1 (= 6 stitches), 1 yarn over, 8 stitches in seed stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, A.1, 1 yarn over, 17-19-21-21-23-27 stitches in seed stitch (= back piece), 1 yarn over, A.1, 1 yarn over, 8 stitches in seed stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, A.1, 1 yarn over, 8-9-10-10-11-13 stitches in seed stitch (= right front piece) and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! The first increase to RAGLAN – read description above, is now finished = 89-93-97-97-101-109 stitches. Continue like this and increase to raglan every 2nd row a total of 22-23-25-27-29-31 times = 257-269-289-305-325-349 stitches. Continue until the piece measures 27-29-31-33-34-36 cm / 10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/8"-13"-13 3/8"-14 1/8" from the cast-on edge and down the band mid front.
The next row from the right side is worked as follows: Work as before over the first 37-39-42-44-47-51 stitches (= left front piece), cast on 5-5-7-7-9-9 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), place the next 58-60-64-68-72-76 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), work the next 67-71-77-81-87-95 stitches (= back piece), cast on 5-5-7-7-9-9 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), place the next 58-60-64-68-72-76 stitches on a thread (= sleeve) and work the remaining 37-39-42-44-47-51 stitches (= right front piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 151-159-175-183-199-215 stitches. Continue with 4 band stitches in garter stitch and seed stitch (double height) as before until the piece measures 36-36-36-36-37-37 cm / 14 1/8"-14 1/8"-14 1/8"-14 1/8"-14 ½"-14 ½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl; but to avoid the bind off edge being tight you can make 1 yarn over after each 4th stitch (yarn overs bind off as normal stitches). The piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 58-60-64-68-72-76 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 5-5-7-7-9-9 new stitches cast on in the side under the sleeve = 63-65-71-75-81-85 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the 5-5-7-7-9-9 new stitches in side under sleeve. Continue with seed stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3rd-3rd-2nd-2nd-2nd-1st round 4-9-4-11-24-1 times and every 4th-4th-3rd-3rd-3rd-2nd round 14-9-17-11-1-25 times = 27-29-29-31-31-33 stitches. Continue with seed stitch until the piece measures 35-33-32-30-29-28 cm / 13 ¾"-13"-12 ½"-11 ¾"-11 3/8"-11" (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 5-7-7-9-9-11 stitches evenly on round = 32-36-36-40-40-44 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and work rib (knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm / 1½''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure the bind-off edge is not tight! The sleeve measures approx. 39-37-36-34-33-32 cm / 15 ¼"-14 ½"-14 1/8"-13 3/8"-13"-12 ½". Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 197-34) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Rita Van Den Doel wrote:

Heel vaak zie ik mooie truien om te breien op pinterest,met ook de daarvoor bedoelde wol. Ik vind het jammer dat de truien meestal van boven naar beneden worden gebruikt en dan ook nog eens op een rondbreinaald.

31.01.2021 - 19:07

country flag Marion wrote:

Hallo, auf dem Bild mit der jüngeren Frau wirkt der Halsausschnitt größer als bei der älteren Frau. Ich möchte ihne gerne so stricken wie bei der älteren Frau. Für welchen Ausschnitt ist die Anleitung geschrieben?

25.02.2019 - 11:43

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Marion, beide Frauen tragen hier dieselbe Jacke. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.02.2019 kl. 12:44

country flag Rolijn wrote:

Hallo! Mir ist nicht ganz deutlich wie viel Wolle ich für Größe S benötige. 900 gramm? Vielen Dank für eine kurze Info! :-)

29.01.2019 - 12:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Rolijn, Für Grösse S brauchen Sie 100 g in jede Farbe 05, 12 und 15, ie 4 Knäuel Farbe 05 + 4 Knäuel Farbe 12 + 4 Knäuel Farbe 15 in DROPS Kid-Silk. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.01.2019 kl. 12:54

country flag Pascale wrote:

Bonjour, Je m'étonne de la petite quantité de laine demandée pour ce modèle. Sachant que le fils est tricoté triple, cela fait un gilet avec uniquement 3 grosses pelotes (triple fils) soit environ 167 m X 3 = 501 m. N'y-a-t-il pas une erreur? Belle journée

16.11.2018 - 08:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pascale, DROPS Kid-Silk se présente sous forme de pelotes de 25 g/200 m. Ainsi, en taille S, il vous faudra un total de 300 g soit 300/25 g la pelote = 12 pelotes (4 de chaque couleur) de 200 m chacune. Bon tricot!

16.11.2018 kl. 09:57

country flag Karin wrote:

Har följt instruktionerna för ok och börjat på raglan. Efter första ökningen står det ”Fortsätt så och öka till raglan på vartannat varv totalt 22-23-25-27-29-31 ggr”. Fortsätt hur då? Med samma instruktioner för ok och raglan? Nästa omgång har jag ju 8 nya maskor, så den initiala instruktionen för ok och raglan funkar ju inte.

31.10.2018 - 19:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karin, jo du ökar alltid på samma ställe (på varje sida av A.1) de nya maskorna stickas in i moss-stickningen. Lycka till!

01.11.2018 kl. 15:37

country flag Gabi wrote:

Ich würde sehr gerne die Anleitung hierzu ausdrucken, aber es wird nur die Seite mit dem Zubehör für die Arbeit ausgedrückt. Könnt Ihr das bitte klären... vielen Dank

08.10.2018 - 18:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gabi, wir könnten gerade diese Anleitung erfolgreich ausdrücken. Beachten Sie in den Drückereinstellungen, daß alle Seiten ausgedrückt werden - Versuchen Sie zudem, den Browsercache und Cookies zu löschen. Sollte all das nichts ändern, sagen Sie uns bitte Bescheid , welchen Browser Sie benutzen.

09.10.2018 kl. 09:06

country flag Solveig wrote:

Hej, Virkelig flot jakke! Har I et forslag til 3 farver, så jakken får et rødligt eller blåligt look?

31.08.2018 - 16:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Solveig, Det rødlige kunne være DROPS Kid-Silk fv 13+17+14. Det blålige look kunne være DROPS Kid-Silk fv 21+08+07. Se farverne her: DROPS Kid-Silk

03.09.2018 kl. 15:42

country flag Helle wrote:

Skøn jakke før overtøjet skal i brug

06.08.2018 - 18:02

country flag Monique wrote:

Eine zeitlose schöne Jacke, die nicht nur im Winter toll ist. Hoffentlich kommt sie mit in das Sortiment!

12.07.2018 - 14:07

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© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.