Simple Mind Jacket by DROPS Design

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.
The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

SEED STITCH (double height):
ROW/ROUND 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-*.
ROW/ROUND 2: Knit over knit and purl over purl.
ROW/ROUND 3: Purl over knit and knit over purl.
ROW/ROUND 4: As row/round 2.
Repeats rows/rounds 1 to 4 onwards.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of each A.1 (= 8 stitches increased on row).
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in seed stitch (double height).

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 74 stitches) minus the bands (e.g.10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 7) = 9.4. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 9th and 10th stitch. Do not increase over the bands. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the stitch with the marker as follows: Work until there are 4 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, 4 stitches in seed stitch (marker sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).


BUTTONHOLES (top down):
Work buttonholes on right band (when the garment is worn). 1 buttonhole = Work from the right side until there are 3 stitches left on the row, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib in the neck measures approx. 3 cm / 1''. Then work the next 4-4-4-4-5-5 buttonholes with approx. 10 cm / 4'' between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. The whole piece is worked with 3 strands Kid-Silk.

NECK:
Cast on 74-78-82-82-86-94 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and 1 strand Kid-Silk in each color (= 3 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Now work rib from the right side as follows: 4 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read description above, (knit 2 / purl 2) until there are 6 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and then 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the rib like this until the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' – Remember BUTTONHOLES! Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 7 stitches evenly on row – read INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced) = 81-85-89-89-93-101 stitches. Knit 1 row back from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10.

YOKE:
Now work pattern from the right side as follows: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, 8-9-10-10-11-13 stitches in SEED STITCH (double height) – read description above, (= left front piece), 1 yarn over, A.1 (= 6 stitches), 1 yarn over, 8 stitches in seed stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, A.1, 1 yarn over, 17-19-21-21-23-27 stitches in seed stitch (= back piece), 1 yarn over, A.1, 1 yarn over, 8 stitches in seed stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, A.1, 1 yarn over, 8-9-10-10-11-13 stitches in seed stitch (= right front piece) and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! The first increase to RAGLAN – read description above, is now finished = 89-93-97-97-101-109 stitches. Continue like this and increase to raglan every 2nd row a total of 22-23-25-27-29-31 times = 257-269-289-305-325-349 stitches. Continue until the piece measures 27-29-31-33-34-36 cm / 10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/8"-13"-13 3/8"-14 1/8" from the cast-on edge and down the band mid front.
The next row from the right side is worked as follows: Work as before over the first 37-39-42-44-47-51 stitches (= left front piece), cast on 5-5-7-7-9-9 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), place the next 58-60-64-68-72-76 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), work the next 67-71-77-81-87-95 stitches (= back piece), cast on 5-5-7-7-9-9 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), place the next 58-60-64-68-72-76 stitches on a thread (= sleeve) and work the remaining 37-39-42-44-47-51 stitches (= right front piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 151-159-175-183-199-215 stitches. Continue with 4 band stitches in garter stitch and seed stitch (double height) as before until the piece measures 36-36-36-36-37-37 cm / 14 1/8"-14 1/8"-14 1/8"-14 1/8"-14 ½"-14 ½". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl; but to avoid the bind off edge being tight you can make 1 yarn over after each 4th stitch (yarn overs bind off as normal stitches). The piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 58-60-64-68-72-76 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 5-5-7-7-9-9 new stitches cast on in the side under the sleeve = 63-65-71-75-81-85 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the 5-5-7-7-9-9 new stitches in side under sleeve. Continue with seed stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3rd-3rd-2nd-2nd-2nd-1st round 4-9-4-11-24-1 times and every 4th-4th-3rd-3rd-3rd-2nd round 14-9-17-11-1-25 times = 27-29-29-31-31-33 stitches. Continue with seed stitch until the piece measures 35-33-32-30-29-28 cm / 13 ¾"-13"-12 ½"-11 ¾"-11 3/8"-11" (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 5-7-7-9-9-11 stitches evenly on round = 32-36-36-40-40-44 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and work rib (knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm / 1½''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Make sure the bind-off edge is not tight! The sleeve measures approx. 39-37-36-34-33-32 cm / 15 ¼"-14 ½"-14 1/8"-13 3/8"-13"-12 ½". Work the other sleeve in the same way.