DROPS / 197 / 25

Ice Dancer by DROPS Design

Knitted fitted jacket in DROPS Lima. Piece is knitted back and forth from mid front with lace pattern, cables and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL

  • Ice Dancer / DROPS 197-25 - Knitted fitted jacket in DROPS Lima. Piece is knitted back and forth from mid front with lace pattern, cables and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL
  • Ice Dancer / DROPS 197-25 - Knitted fitted jacket in DROPS Lima. Piece is knitted back and forth from mid front with lace pattern, cables and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL
  • Ice Dancer / DROPS 197-25 - Knitted fitted jacket in DROPS Lima. Piece is knitted back and forth from mid front with lace pattern, cables and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL
  • Ice Dancer / DROPS 197-25 - Knitted fitted jacket in DROPS Lima. Piece is knitted back and forth from mid front with lace pattern, cables and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL
  • Ice Dancer / DROPS 197-25 - Knitted fitted jacket in DROPS Lima. Piece is knitted back and forth from mid front with lace pattern, cables and shawl collar. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern no li-105
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
750-850-950-1000-1100-1250 g color 0100, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR Needle size 4 mm / US 6, length 40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'' for the garment.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR Needle size 3.5 mm / US 4, length 80 cm/32" for edges in garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'' switch to smaller needles.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 4 pieces for all sizes

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 58.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.8. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

SHORT ROWS IN BAND:
Work short rows over stitches in band to avoid it contracting vertically. Work as follows from right side every 20th row: Knit 5 (= right band), turn and work back. Work 1 row over all stitches as before. Turn and knit 5 (= left band), turn and work back. Turn and work 1 row over all stitches as before.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 2 stitches in each section with marker thread as follows:
Work until first section in stockinette stitch and marker thread, knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit until 1 stitch remains in section with stockinette stitch, 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= 2 stitches increased). Repeat at each of the remaining sections with stockinette stitch and marker thread (= 8 stitches increased on every row with increase). On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to collar):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch by making a yarn over inside 3 stitches in garter stitch on band mid front. On next row knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-3 (applies to sleeves):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker under sleeve, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to body):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease 2 stitches in each of the 8 sections with 20-22-24-24-24-24 stitches in stockinette stitch as follows: Work until first section with stockinette stitch, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, work until 2 stitches remain in this section with stockinette stitch, knit the last 2 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased). Repeat at each of the remaining 7 sections with stockinette stitch (= 16 stitches decreased on every row with decrease).
 
BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band when garment is worn (i.e. decrease at the beginning of row from right side). 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over = hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 27, 36, 45 and 54 cm
M: 28, 37, 46 and 55 cm
L: 29, 38, 47 and 56 cm
XL: 30, 39, 48 and 57 cm
XXL: 31, 40, 49 and 58 cm
XXXL: 32, 41, 50 and 59 cm

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle up to armhole, then work front pieces and back piece back and forth separately. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 323-339-355-391-391-427 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Lima. Work 1 ridge in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Work 2 rows in stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. Now work pattern from right side in the different sizes as follows:

Size S, M and L:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 9 stitches), A.3 (= 18 stitches), * stockinette stitch over the next 20-22-24 stitches, A.1 over the next 9 stitches *, work from *-* 3 times in total, stockinette stitch over the next 20-22-24 stitches, A.5 over the next 18 stitches, A.1 over the next 9 stitches, A.3 over the next 18 stitches, * stockinette stitch over the next 20-22-24 stitches, A.1 over the next 9 stitches *, work from *-* 3 times in total, stockinette stitch over the next 20-22-24 stitches, A.5, A.1, 5 band stitches in garter stitch.

Size XL, XXL and XXXL:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 9 stitches), A.7 (= 18 stitches), A.1 over the next 9-9-18 stitches (= 1-1-2 repetitions in total), * stockinette stitch over the next 24-24-24 stitches, A.1 over the next 9 stitches *, work from *-* 3 times in total, stockinette stitch over the next 24-24-24 stitches, A.1 over the next 9-9-18 stitches (= 1-1-2 repetitions in total), A.7 over the next 18 stitches, A.1 over the next 9 stitches, A.7 over the next 18 stitches, A.1 over the next 9-9-18 stitches (= 1-1-2 repetitions in total), * stotcking stitch over the next 24-24-24 stitches, A.1 over the next 9 stitches *, work from *-* 3 times in total, stockinette stitch over the next 24-24-24 stitches, A.1 over the next 9-9-18 stitches (= 1-1-2 repetitions in total), A.7 over the next 18 stitches, A.1 over the next 9 stitches, 5 band stitches in garter stitch.

All sizes:
On first row increase stitches in each diagram, increases are shown in diagram (= 17-17-17-21-21-25 stitches increased) = 340-356-372-412-412-452 stitches. Work band stitches in garter stitch until finished measurements and on every 20th row work SHORT ROWS IN BAND – read explanation above. When A.1, A.3, A.5 and A.7 have been worked vertically, work A.2 over A.1, A.4 over A.3, A.6 over A.5 and A.8 over A.7 until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE. When piece measures 9-6-7-11-8-9 cm / 3 ½"-2 3/8"-2 ¾"-4 ¼"-3 1/8"-3 ½", begin decrease in every section with 20-22-24-24-24-24 stitches in stockinette stitch – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5-5-5-4-5-5 cm / 1 7/8"-1 7/8"-1 7/8"-1 ½"-1 7/8"-1 7/8" 8-9-9-10-9-9 times in total = 212-212-228-252-268-308 stitches. After all decreases are done, there are 4-4-6-4-6-6 stitches in stockinette stitch in every section with stockinette stitch. Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above. When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm / 18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾''-20''-20½'', insert 4 marker threads in piece as follows: Insert a marker thread in 2nd, 3rd, 6th, and 7th section with stockinette stitch. I.e. the 2 middle section in stockinette stitch in each side of piece. On next row from right side, increase in every section with marker thread - read INCREASE TIP-1! Increase like this every 4-4-4-4-2-2 cm / 1 ½"-1 ½"-1 ½"-1 ½"-¾"-¾" 1-2-3-3-3-3 times in total = 220-228-252-276-292-332 stitches.
When piece measures 58-59-60-61-62-63 cm / 22¾''-23¼''-23 5/8''-24''-24 3/8''-24¾'', work next row from wrong side as follows:
Work the first 56-58-64-70-74-84 stitches (= right front piece), bind off the next 8 stitches under sleeve, work the next 92-96-108-120-128-148 stitches (= back piece), bind off the next 8 stitches under sleeve, work the last 56-58-64-70-74-84 stitches on needle (= left front piece). Cut the yarn. Slip stitches for right and left front piece on separate stitch holders and work the back piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 92-96-108-120-128-148 stitches. Continue pattern back and forth the same way but work edge stitch in each side in garter stitch, AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole at the beginning of every row in each side of piece as follows: bind off 3 stitches 0-0-0-0-0-2 times, 2 stitches 1-2-3-3-3-3 times and 1 stitch 1-1-3-2-3-2 times = 86-86-90-104-110-120 stitches. When piece measures 74-76-78-80-82-84 cm / 29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33'' / 29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33'', bind off the middle 24-24-26-26-28-28 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately = 31-31-32-39-41-46 stitches. Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures 75-77-79-81-83-85 cm / 29½''-30 3/8''-31''-32''-32¾''-33½''. Now work 1 ridge over all stitches, at the same time decrease 3-3-3-4-4-6 stitches evenly = 28-28-29-35-37-40 stitches. Bind off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 56-58-64-70-74-84 stitches. Continue pattern back and forth the same way. On first row begin increase for collar - read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 4th row 8-8-10-10-12-12 times in total, AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole at beginning of every row from side the same way as on back piece. When all bind offs for armhole and all increases for collar are done, there are 61-61-65-72-77-82 stitches on needle. Continue until piece measures 75-77-79-81-83-85 cm / 29½''-30 3/8''-31''-32''-32¾''-33½'', adjust so that next row is worked from right side:
Knit the first 30-30-33-33-36-36 stitches before slipping them on a stitch holder (= collar), knit the next 31-31-32-39-41-46 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME decrease 3-3-3-4-4-6 stitches evenly = 28-28-29-35-37-40 stitches for shoulder. Turn and knit over stitches for shoulder, turn and bind off. Slip stitches from stitch holder back on circular needle and knit 1 row from wrong side. Then work shawl collar in garter stitch, begin from mid front as follows: * Work 2 rows back and forth over the first 18-18-20-20-21-22 stitches, work 2 rows back and forth over all stitches *, work from *-* until collar measures 6-6-6-6-7-7 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 ¾"-2 ¾" on the shortest. Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 56-58-64-70-74-84 stitches. Continue pattern back and forth the same way. On first row begin increase for collar - remember INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 4th row 8-8-10-10-12-12 times in total, AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole at beginning of every row from side the same way as on back piece and right front piece. When all bind offs for armhole and all increases for collar are done, there are 61-61-65-72-77-82 stitches on needle. Continue until piece measures 75-77-79-81-83-85 cm / 29½''-30 3/8''-31''-32''-32¾''-33½'', adjust so that next row is worked from wrong side: Knit the first 30-30-33-33-36-36 stitches before slipping them on a stitch holder (= collar), knit the next 31-31-32-39-41-46 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME decrease 3-3-3-4-4-6 stitches evenly = 28-28-29-35-37-40 stitches for shoulder, turn and bind off. Slip stitches from stitch holder back on circular needle and knit 1 row from right side. Then work shawl collar in garter stitch, begin from mid front as follows: * Work 2 rows back and forth over the first 18-18-20-20-21-22 stitches, work 2 rows back and forth over all stitches *, work from *-* until collar measures 6-6-6-6-7-7 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 ¾"-2 ¾" on the shortest. Bind off.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeve in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 52-54-56-58-60-60 stitches on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Lima. Work 1 ridge. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Work 1 round in stockinette stitch. Then work as follows: 8-9-10-11-12-12 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.1 (= 9 stitches), A.7 (= 18 stitches), A.1, 8-9-10-11-12-12 stitches in stockinette stitch, insert 1 marker at the beginning of round. Continue pattern like this. When A.1 and A.7 have been worked vertically, continue with A.2 over A.1 and A.8 over A.7. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', increase 1 stitch on each side of marker - read INCREASE TIP-3. Increase like this every 3-3-3-3-1-1 cm / 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-3/8"-3/8" 9-8-5-2-0-7 times and every 4-2-2-2-2-2 cm / 1 ½"-¾"-¾"-¾"-¾"-¾" 1-3-7-11-14-9 times = 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches. Work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch. When piece measures 46-45-44-43-40-38 cm / 18"-17 5/8"-17 ¼"-16 7/8"-15 ¾"-14 7/8" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), bind off for sleeve cap at beginning of every row in each side as follows: bind off 4 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 4-3-3-3-3-3 times, 1 stitch 2-6-7-6-9-10 times, 2 stitches 3-1-1-1-3-3 times and 3 stitches 2-3-3-4-2-2 times = 24-26-28-28-30-32 stitches. Bind off the remaining stitches. Piece measures 55-55-55-54-53-52 cm / 21 5/8"-21 5/8"-21 5/8"-21 ¼"-20 7/8"-20 3/8". Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams together. Sew in sleeves. Sew the collar tog mid back and sew it to the neckline. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 24.10.2019
Correction: SLEEVE...Increase like this every 3-3-3-3-1-1 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-3/8"-3/8" 9-8-5-2-0-7 times and every 4-2-2-2-2-2 cm = 1 1/2"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4" 1-3-7-11-14-9 times = 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next row purl or knit yarn over - see next row in digram – it should make a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 2 yarn over. On next row purl first yarn over in front loop of stitch and purl next yarn over in back loop of stitch - it should make a hole (= 2 stitches increased)
symbols = knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased)
symbols = knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together (= 2 stitches decreased)
symbols = slip 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
symbols = 1 yarn over, knit 1. On next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbols = 1 yarn over, purl 1 On next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 197-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (60)

country flag Françoise 26.04.2021 - 15:07:

Bonjour Comment faire avec les carrés noirs des motifs A1 A3 et A5. Ils sont compris dans le nombre de mailles, mais ne doivent pas être tricotés. Cela devrait donc faire une maille de moins. Merci de votre réponse. Cordialement.

user icon DROPS Design 27.04.2021 kl. 07:19:

Bonjour Françoise, les carrés noirs ne sont pas des mailles, mais au même rang que ces carrés noirs, vous allez augmenter ( avant-dernier symbole dans A.1, dernier symbole dans A.3 par ex.), autrement dit, le 1er rang de A.1 par ex. va se tricoter ainsi: 2 m env, 1 m end, (1 jeté, 1 m end, tricotez le jeté torse à l'envers au rang suivant pour éviter un trou), 3 m end, 2 m env. Bon tricot!

country flag Britta Sørensen 11.04.2021 - 12:55:

Når ærmet måler xx cm skal man lukke af i begyndelsen af hver pind. Men jeg strikker jo på strømpepinde, som der står man skal. Forestiller mig ikke, man lukker masker 4 steder på en gang😜 hvad menes mon?? Vh Britta

user icon DROPS Design 12.04.2021 kl. 15:17:

Hej Britta, når du har lukket de 4 første masker af på omgangen (fra mærket under ærmet), strikkes resten af ærmekuplen frem og tilbage (da er det nok lettere at strikke frem og tilbage på rundpind, men det gør du som du vil), og maskerne skal lukkes af på hver side af ærmet. God fornøjelse

country flag Carol 17.03.2021 - 23:04:

I have finished this beautiful sweater but the bottom of it rolls up. Is there anything you can recommend to fix this besides starting the sweater all over again.

user icon DROPS Design 18.03.2021 kl. 09:45:

Dear Carol, you can block it: wash if (read thoroughly the instructions on the label) or just moisten it and let it dry flat, adding pins if necessary. Enjoy!

country flag Carol 15.03.2021 - 13:24:

I am working on the collar and need to know if I continue working the pattern on the 13sts that are not the colloar part.

user icon DROPS Design 15.03.2021 kl. 15:12:

Dear Carol, are you meaning the shawl collar, ie you have now 28 - 28-29 -35-37-40 sts on needle after binding off for shoulder? You should now work garter stitch over all these stitches with short rows over the first 18-18-20-20-21-22 sts towards front band. Happy knitting!

country flag Carol 22.01.2021 - 13:35:

A.5 I am having a problem with. I purl 5 sts, make 1 y/o, k 2 tog, k2, make 2 y/o, k 2, sl1 k1 p/o s/s, make 1 y/o, (I have 5 sts left on my needle instead of 3 that is shown on pattern to purl). What am I missing?

user icon DROPS Design 22.01.2021 kl. 16:12:

Dear Carol, see the last symbol, you should work: 1 yarn over, Purl 1 so that A.5 will be: P5, P1, YO, K2 tog, K2, 2 YO, K2, slip 1, k1, psso, P1, K1, P3 = 20 sts. Happy knitting!

country flag Coco 14.12.2020 - 16:44:

Bonjour A1 n'ayant que 8 rangs alors que A5 et A3 en ont 10 je vais devoir commencer A2 avant A4 et A6 que faire lorsque que A2 sera terminer et que A4 et A6 ne le seront pas encore ayant plus de rangs? Merci de votre réponse

user icon DROPS Design 15.12.2020 kl. 08:28:

Bonjour Coco, effectivement, les diagrammes se répètent en hauteur sur un nombre différent de rangs, lorsque l'un d'eux est terminé, reprenez-le au 1er rang mais continuez les autres comme avant. Bon tricot!

country flag Zsuzsa 01.11.2020 - 19:32:

Hi, I would have one question regarding the diagram. The 2 diagram explanation symbol in the bottom say: "1 yarn over, knit/purl 1" Does it mean that I do 1 or 2 stitches? Many thanks in advance! :) Beautiful jacket!

user icon DROPS Design 02.11.2020 kl. 08:58:

Dear Mrs Zsuzsa, this is in fact really 2 sts, work either YO, K1, or YO, P1 and on next round, work YO twisted (as shown on 2nd row in diagram) to avoid a hole. Happy knitting!

country flag Karin Nilsen 07.10.2020 - 18:27:

Skal det felles en maske etter kast i a1 slik at man fortsatt har 9 masker

user icon DROPS Design 08.10.2020 kl. 07:56:

Hej Karin. Nej det ska du inte. Det är ökningar inritade i diagrammen på första raden (A.1 har efter första raden 10 m). Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Margreeth 11.09.2020 - 11:39:

Wil 52 steken mouw op zetten dan volgens patroon 8 st trico dan a1 (9 st) dan a7(18 st) dan weer 8 st trico st maar volgens mij mis ik dan 1o st moet ik dat dan over due trico steken verdelen mvg margreeth

user icon DROPS Design 13.09.2020 kl. 10:31:

Dag Margreeth,

Als je breit volgens de instructies: 8 tricot + 9 A.1 + 18 A.7 + 9 A.1 + 8 trictot, dan kom je precies op 52 steken uit.

country flag Sylvie 09.09.2020 - 22:04:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas les diagrammes A1, A3 et A5 : par exemple sur la 1ère ligne de A1 on ne tricote que 9 mailles puisqu'il y a un jeté mais sur les rangs suivants figurent 10 mailles ? Merci de votre aide.

user icon DROPS Design 10.09.2020 kl. 09:36:

Bonjour Sylvie, on augmente au 1e rrang de chacun des diagrammes A.1, A.3 et A.5: le diagramme A.1 se tricote sur 9 mailles et on augmente 1 m = on aura ensuite 10 m dans A.1, A.3 se tricote sur 18 m mais on augmente 2 m = on aura 20 m dans A.3 etc autrement, au 1er rang, vous allez augmenter 17-21 ou 25 m en fonction de la taille et vous aurez à la fin de ce rang 340 à 452 m - cf "Toutes les tailles" après la répartition des mailles du 1er rang. Bon tricot!

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