DROPS / 196 / 9

Bardu by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-152
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-200-200-200-250 g color 12, moss green
50-100-100-100-100-100 g color 19, forest green
50-50-100-100-100-100 color 03, pearl gray

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM/US 9 – for stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM/US 9: length 40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'' for stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM / US 7 – for rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM / US 7: length 40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'' for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Find your size in the diagrams. The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP-1:
To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working pattern it is important that the strands at the back of the piece are not tight. You can use a larger needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.

KNITTING TIP-2:
It is important that the knitting gauge is maintained also in height, or the yoke will be too short and the armholes too small! Check the gauge as you go and if it is right in width but not in length, you can work extra rows with forest green after the 2nd and/or the 3rd rows with increases (row with arrow) to get the right length for your size.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 84 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 20) = 4.2. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 54 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 2) = 27. 
In this example, decrease by knitting each 26th and 27th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

SWEATER:
NECK:
Cast on 84-88-92-100-104-108 stitches with short circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and forest green. Knit 1 round. Now work rib (knit 2, purl 2) until the rib measures 4 cm / 1½''.

YOKE:
Change to short circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9. Now knit 1 round where you increase 20-20-24-24-28-28 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 104-108-116-124-132-136 stitches. Knit 1 round.


Now work pattern A.1 (find your size in the diagram) in the round and increase stitches evenly on the rounds marked with an arrow in the diagram. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Read KNITTING TIP-1 and KNITTING TIP-2!
ARROW-1: Increase 24-28-32-32-32-32 stitches evenly on round = 128-136-148-156-164-168 stitches.
ARROW-2: Increase 32-32-36-36-36-40 stitches evenly on round = 160-168-184-192-200-208 stitches.
ARROW-3: Increase 32-36-38-36-40-44 stitches evenly on round = 192-204-222-228-240-252 stitches.
ARROW-4: Increase 24-30-30-30-30-36 stitches evenly on round = 216-234-252-258-270-288 stitches.
ARROW-5: Increase 6-12-24-30-30-36 stitches evenly on round = 222-246-276-288-300-324 stitches. When the increases on the round marked with arrow-5 are finished, continue as follows in the different sizes:

Sizes S, M, L and XL:
Continue until there is 1 round left in the diagrams. The piece should now measure 25-27-27-30 cm / 9 ¾"-10 5/8"-10 5/8"-11 ¾" from the cast-on edge down.

Sizes XXL and XXXL:
Continue with pattern as before and increase as follows:
ARROW-6: Increase 28-28 stitches evenly on round = 328-352 stitches. When the increases on the round marked with arrow-6 are finished, continue until there is 1 round left in the diagrams. The piece should now measure 33-34 cm / 13"-13 3/8" from the cast-on edge down.

ALL SIZES:
Work the last round in the diagrams as follows: Work the first 31-34-39-42-48-52 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 48-54-60-60-68-72 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 63-69-78-84-96-104 stitches (= front piece), place the next 48-54-60-60-68-72 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the remaining 32-35-39-42-48-52 stitches (= half back piece). THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 138-150-168-184-208-224 stitches. Now work pattern as follows: Work A.2 (find your size in diagram) in the round. The pattern on the body should match the pattern on the yoke so that each repeat of A.2 is over each repeat of A.1! In sizes S and M increase 6-2 stitches evenly on the row marked with a black dot in A.2 (do not increase in sizes L, XL, XXL and XXXL) = 144-152-168-184-208-224 stitches. When A.2 has been completed in height continue with moss green and stockinette stitch. Now insert 1 marker thread in each side as follows: Insert the first marker thread after the first 36-38-42-46-52-56 stitches, then the second marker thread after the next 72-76-84-92-104-112 stitches. There are 36-38-42-46-52-56 stitches left on the round after the second marker thread. On the next round increase 2 stitches in each side (= 4 stitches increased on the row) - read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 4-2-3-4-5-6 cm / 1 ½"-¾"-1 1/8"-1 ½"-1 7/8"-2 3/8" a total of 2-4-4-4-3-3 times = 152-168-184-200-220-236 stitches. When the piece measures 24-24-26-25-24-25 cm / 9 3/8"-9 3/8"-10 ¼"-9 ¾"-9 3/8"-9 ¾" increase 24-28-28-32-36-36 stitches evenly on round = 176-196-212-232-256-272 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2). When the rib measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl; but to avoid the bind off edge being tight you can make 1 yarn over after each 4th stitch (yarn overs bind off as normal stitches). The piece measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 48-54-60-60-68-72 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-60-66-68-76-80 stitches. Insert a marker thread mid under sleeve, i.e. in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on under sleeve. Let marker thread follow in piece, it is used for the decrease under the sleeve. Continue in the round with A.3 (find your size in the diagram). NOTE (applies to sizes S, M and L): Because the yoke was finished in the middle of a pattern repeat, it is important that the pattern on the sleeve matches the pattern on the yoke so that each repeat of A.3 is over each repeat of A.2! Make sure that you start on the right stitch in the diagram so that the pattern fits around the whole sleeve.
Now work as follows in the different sizes:

Sizes S, M and L:
On the first round with a star in A.3 decrease 2-4-2 stitches evenly – read DECREASE TIP-1 and on the second round with a star decrease 4-8-8 stitches evenly = 48-48-56 stitches.

Sizes XL, XXL and XXXL:
On the round with a star in A.3 decrease 4-4-0 stitches evenly – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 64-72-80 stitches.

When A.3 has been completed, continue with stockinette stitch and moss green. On the next round start to decrease under the sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this approx. every 2-2-1-1-1-1 cm / ¾"-¾"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8" a total of 7-7-10-13-16-19 times = 34-34-36-38-40-42 stitches. When the sleeve measures 34-32-33-30-27-27 cm / 13 3/8"-12 ½"-13"-11 ¾"-10 5/8"-10 5/8" from the division, knit 1 round where you increase 6-6-8-6-8-10 stitches evenly = 40-40-44-44-48-52 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work rib (knit 2 /purl 2) for 6 cm / 2 3/8''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 40-38-39-36-33-33 cm / 15 ¾"-14 7/8"-15 ¼"-14 1/8"-13"-13". Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= moss green
= forest green
= pearl grey
= increase round - read description in text
= decrease round (for sleeves) - read description in text
= increase round (for body in sizes S and M) - read description in text




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 196-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (35)

Andrea Denby 23.11.2020 - 19:34:

Are you aware that this pattern picture (and a load of your other designs) is being used by a clothing website whicestyle.com. They are offering clothing in these styles, illegally I assume!

Mette Gade 18.09.2020 - 01:44:

Jeg er en meget stor dame og ville rigtig gerne strikke denne trøje til mig selv. Er der en måde at øge mønsteret på, så jeg kan lave en trøje jeg kan passe?

DROPS Design 21.09.2020 kl. 10:44:

Hei Mette. Om du tar utgangspunkt i den største størrelsen og strikker ovenfra og ned kan du prøve bærestykket underveis. Om du ønsker å øke med noen masker, pass på at du øker med et antall masker slik at mønstret går opp. Øker du maskenatallet på bærestykket, vil ermene også bli kortere. Det fine med å strikke et plagg ovenfra og ned, er at du hele tiden kan prøve og se om den passer og evnt gjøre endringer underveis. God Fornøyelse!

Ann 07.09.2020 - 20:08:

Hvor langt ned skal ermer og bole gå på denne genseren?

DROPS Design 08.09.2020 kl. 07:11:

Hei Ann, Det finnes en skisse med mål til de forskjellige størrelsene på bunnen av oppskriften. God fornøyelse!

Silje Lehn-Pedersen 13.07.2020 - 22:34:

Når i oppskriften bør en bytte fra liten rundpinne til 80cm

DROPS Design 14.07.2020 kl. 07:00:

Hei Silje. Du kan bytte når du har økt nok masker til at man fint kan bruke en 80 cm. Er du usikker, bytt til 80 cm og strikk 1 omgang, ser du ved omgangens ende at det fremdeles er for få masker, bytt tilbake til 40 cm. mvh DROPS design

Susanne Vigsø Møller 07.07.2020 - 22:12:

Hej. Flot trøje. Efter udtagning pil 2 synes jeg at jeg har flere masker mellem 2 x mosegrøn kryds. Skal jeg gå efter at mønster med perlegrå kommer i midten af mosegrøn kryds eller skal jeg tælle 7 skovgrønne masker? Håber mit spørgsmål giver mening.

DROPS Design 13.07.2020 kl. 08:33:

Hei Susanne. Pga av økningene jevnt fordelt vil mønstret forskyve seg. Når du har økt ved pil 2, så start neste omgang slik du ser i diagrammet. God Fornøyelse!

Marianne Vatne 05.07.2020 - 19:57:

Drops 196-9 På str L, skal 28 m økes når vi begynner på bolen eller på siste omgang før vrangborden? Hvis det er begynnelsen på bolen stemmer ikke økningen på bolen før vrangborden Totalt maskeantall skal være 212 før vrangbord. Ved økning av 28 m kommer de i tillegg når økningene er ferdig på bryst og bol. Håper på snarlig svar

DROPS Design 06.07.2020 kl. 07:33:

Hei Marianne, Du øker 28 masker før vrangbord slik at vrangbordet ikke strammer. God fornøyelse!

Kristin Bjorøy Viksøy 28.06.2020 - 21:48:

Lengden på genseren står at skal bli 62cm i L og det synes eg er passe, men når eg følger oppskriften så får eg det til å bli 59cm? Overdel blir 27cm pluss 26cm før vrangbord og 6cm vrangbord.. kan eg bare legge til 3cm på den siste delen, nermer meg vrangbord nå?

DROPS Design 02.07.2020 kl. 11:36:

Hej Kristin, du kan altid prøve genseren og strikke den længde som passer dig. Det er fordelen ved at strikke ovenfra og ned. God fornøjelse!

Carla 08.04.2020 - 23:19:

Me encanta!! quisiera saber si hay un diseño similar o con colores similares para hombres?

DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 21:15:

Hola Carla. En este link puedes consultar la colección de modelos para hombres: https://www.garnstudio.com/search.php?action=browse&c=4&lang=es

Joy 01.02.2020 - 22:17:

Hej 😊 Jeg har nu sat maskerne til det første ærme af på en tråd, og skal nu slå slå 8 masker op (=i siden af ærmet). Hvordan gør jeg det? På forhånd tak.

DROPS Design 03.02.2020 kl. 11:15:

Hei Joy. Ta en titt på hjelpevideoene som ligger nederst på oppskriften. Der finner du videoen: Hvordan legge opp nye masker i siden på et arbeid. God Fornøyelse!

Bente Pedersen 10.01.2020 - 18:23:

Skal de 6 masker der slås op når der sættes masker af til ærmer, strikkes med i ryg og forstykke ?

DROPS Design 15.01.2020 kl. 15:58:

Hej Bente, ja det er de masker som danner siden under ærmerne. God fornøjelse!

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