DROPS Baby / 31 / 4

Odeta Pants by DROPS Design

The set consists of: knitted baby shorts and slippers with lace pattern and garter stitch. Sizes premature - 4 years. The set is worked in DROPS BabyMerino.

Tags: lace, sets, shorts, slippers,
DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-083-by
Yarn group A
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FOR THE WHOLE SET YOU WILL NEED:
Sizes: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
or (15 ¾”/17 ¼”) 19”/20 ½” - 22”/24 ⅜” - 26 ¾”/29 ⅛” - 31 ½”/33 ⅞” (36 ¼”)
Fits foot length: (8) 9-10-11-12 (14) cm
(3 ⅛”) 3 ½”-4”-4 ⅜”-4 ¾” (5 ½”-6 ¼”)
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(50) 100-100-100-100 (100) g colour 43, light sea green

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM/ US 2.5 – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows garter stitch on 10 cm/4" in width and 10 cm/4" in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM/ US 1.5 – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm/4" in width and 10 cm/4" in height.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 MM / US C/2 – for the cord.
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SHORTS:
Sizes: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2) years
Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
(15 ¾”/17 ¼”) 19”/20 ½” - 22”/24 ⅜” - 26 ¾”/29 ⅛” - 31 ½”/33 ⅞” (36 ¼”)
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio
(50) 50-50-50-50 (100) g colour 43, light sea green

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM/ US 2.5 – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM/ US 1.5 for the rib – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm/4" in width and 10 cm/4" in height.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 MM/ US C/2 – for the cord.
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SLIPPERS:
Sizes: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Fits foot length: (8) 9-10-11-12 (14-16) cm
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 43light sea green

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM/ US 1.5 – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows garter stitch on 10 cm/4" in width and 10 cm/4" in height.
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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.95 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 2.95 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 2.95 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 2.95$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Shorts: See diagram A.1.
Slippers: See diagrams A.2 and A.3.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for the shorts):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread in the side, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), increase like this at both marker threads (= a total of 4 stitches increased).
On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
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SHORTS:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down. Cast on (80) 96-96-112-112 (128) stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid back). Work rib from mid back as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, finish with purl 2 and knit 1.
When the rib measures (2) 2-2-3-3 (3) cm or (¾”) ¾”-¾”-1 ⅛”-1 ⅛” (1 ⅛”) work a row of holes for the cord on the next round as follows: * Knit 1, 1 yarn over, purl 2 together, knit 1 *, work from *-* to end of round.
Work 1 round of rib knit 2 /purl 2.
Then work an elevation in the rib at the back as follows: Work (7) 9-9-9-9 (9) stitches, turn, tighten the strand, work (14) 18-18-18-18 (18) stitches back, turn, tighten the strand, work (20) 24-24-24-26 (26) stitches, turn, tighten the strand, work (26) 30-30-30-34 (34) stitches back, turn, tighten the strand, work (32) 36-36-36-42 (42) stitches, turn, tighten the strand, work (38) 42-42-42-50 (50) stitches back.
Continue like this, i.e. work (6) 6-6-6-8 (8) more stitches each time the piece is turned until you have worked over a total of (62) 66-66-66-82 (82) stitches. Turn, tighten the strand, then continue with rib in the round over all stitches again.
When the piece measures (4) 4-5-5-5 (5) cm or (1 ½”) 1 ½”-2”-2”-2” (2”) mid front, change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Knit 1 round and decrease (10) 14-10-22-14 (26) stitches evenly on round = (70) 82-86-90-98 (102) stitches. On the next round insert 1 marker thread in each side of the piece as follows: Work (17) 20-21-22-24 (25) stitches GARTER STITCH – see description above, insert 1 marker thread (= half the back piece), work (35) 41-43-45-49 (51) stitches garter stitch, insert 1 marker thread (= front piece), work (18) 21-22-23-25 (26) stitches garter stitch (= half the back piece). The piece is now continue in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
On the next round increase 1 stitch on each side of both the marker threads in the sides (= 4 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 1 cm/3/8” a total of (6) 7-8-11-11 (14) times, then increase 2 stitches evenly on next round = (96) 112-120-136-144 (160) stitches. When the piece measures (10) 12-14-16-17 (19) cm or (4”) 4 ¾”-5 ½”-6 ¼”-6 ¾” (7 ½”), adjust so that the last row was purled, work pattern A.1 over all stitches (= a total of (12) 14-15-17-18 (20) times in width). When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, work garter stitch to finished length.
When the piece measures (15) 17-19-21-22 (24) cm or (6”) 6 ¾”-7 ½”-8 ¼”- 7 ¾” (9 ½”), cast off stitches for the legs as follows: Cast off the first (41) 49-53-61-63 (71) stitches, work (14) 14-14-14-18 (18) stitches, cast off the last (41) 49-53-61-63 (71) stitches = (14) 14-14-14-18 (18) stitches left for gusset. Cut the strand. Now continue working back and forth. Work GARTER STITCH – see description above, for approx. (2) 2-2-3-4 (5) cm or (¾”) ¾”-¾”-1 ⅛”-1 ⅛” (1 ⅛”). Cast off. Sew these ridges to the cast off edge on the back piece, in the middle, in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch.

CORD:
Crochet a cord as follows: Work chain stitches with hook size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino for approx. 75-80-85-90-95 cm = 29 1/2"-31 1/2"-33 1/2"-25 1/2"-37 3/8", turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain. Cut and fasten the strand. Thread the cord in and out through the row of holes (start and finish mid front).
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SLIPPER:
The slipper is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid back, top down; i.e. you first work the leg then the foot.
Cast on (36) 38-40-44-48 (52-56) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino. Work A.2 (= 2 stitches) over all stitches. When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, work the next row from the right side as follows: Work (2) 3-0-2-0 (2-0) stitches stocking stitch, A.3 (= 8 stitches) a total of (4) 4-5-5-6 (6-7) times in width and finish with (2) 3-0-2-0 (2-0) stitches stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.3 has been completed 1 time in height continue with A.2 as follows: Knit (0) 1-0-0-0-(0-0) stitches, A.2 over the next (36) 36-40-44-48 (52-56) stitches and finish by knitting (0) 1-0-0-0-(0-0) stitches (the cord is later thread through this row of holes). When A.2 has been completed in height, work 2 RIDGES – see description above and decrease (6) 8-6-6-6- (10-14) stitches evenly on the last row from the right side = (30) 30-34-38-38 (42-42) stitches. Cut the strand.
Now place the first (11) 11-12-13-13 (15-15) stitches and the last (11) 11-12-13-13 (15-15) stitches on two separate threads. The piece is now worked in garter stitch to finished length. Work (3) 3½-4-4½-5½ (6½-8) cm or (1 ⅛”)1 ¼”-1 ½”-1 ¾”-2 ⅛” (2 ¼”-3 ⅛”), over the middle (8) 8-10-12-12 (12-12) stitches (= mid top of slipper), cut the strand.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work the stitches from the one thread in the one side back onto the double pointed needles, knit up (7) 9-10-11-13 (16-21) stitches in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch along the side of the middle piece, work the (8) 8-10-12-12 (12-12) stitches on the needle (= front), knit up (7) 9-10-11-13 (16-21) stitches in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch along the other side of the middle piece and work the stitches from the other thread back onto the double pointed needles = (44) 48-54-60-64 (74-84) stitches on the needles. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work a total of (2½) 3-3-4-5 (5-5) cm or (1”) 1 ⅛”-1 ⅛”- 1 ½”-2” (2”-2”) garter stitch over all stitches AT THE SAME TIME when you have worked approx. (1) 1½-1½-2-3 (3-3) cm or (⅜”) ½”-½”-¾”-1 ⅛” (1 ⅛”-1 ⅛”), insert 1 marker (22) 24-27-30-32 (37-42) stitches in (= middle of slipper). Now decrease every 2nd row to finished length as follows:
Knit 1 stitch, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, knit together the next 4 stitches, 2 and 2 (= 2 stitches decreased), knit until there are 3 stitches left, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 1 stitch (= 4 stitches decreased every 2nd row) = approx. (32) 36-42-48-52 (62-72) stitches.
Cast off and sew the seam under the foot and up mid back in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat.
Work 1 more slipper in the same way.

CORD:
Work a cord as follows: Work chain stitches with hook size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino for approx. 30-40 cm (11 ¾”-15 ¾”), turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch. Cut and fasten the strand.
Thread the cord in and out of the row of holes on the slipper (start and finish mid front of slipper).

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For jacket see DROPS number 31-3.
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This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 24.04.2019
Correction - CORD (shorts): Crochet a cord as follows: Work chain stitches with hook size 2.5 mm = C/2 and BabyMerino for 75-80-85-90-95 cm = 29 1/2"-31 1/2"-33 1/2"-25 1/2"-37 3/8"

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over
= knitting direction


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 31-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (32)

Maja 12.09.2020 - 23:45:

Hei, jeg har et annet spørsmål. Det står "Når arbeidet måler (10) 12-14-16-17 (19) cm (...) strikkes mønster A.1 over alle maskene". Skal det måles midt foran eller midt bak? Jeg antar det er foran, men vil bare dobbeltsjekke.

DROPS Design 14.09.2020 kl. 11:53:

Hei Maja. Midt foran ja. God Fornøyelse!

Maja 08.09.2020 - 08:31:

Hei! Jeg bare lurer på om det er like greit å strikke shortsen med rundpinner istedenfor settpinner?

DROPS Design 09.09.2020 kl. 13:57:

Hej Maja, ja hvis du har masker nok til at de når rundt på rundpinden, så må du selvfølgelig gerne gøre det :)

Courveille Chantal 03.09.2020 - 07:54:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas l'explication du chausson, au niveau du marqueur, on diminue que d'un côté du marqueur 1 maille tout les 2 rangs ou on diminue sur tout le rang de chaque côté du marqueur.

DROPS Design 03.09.2020 kl. 09:14:

Bonjour Mme Courveille, à la fin des chaussons, on diminue 4 mailles tous les rangs sur l'endroit = 1 m en début de rang, 1 m de chaque côté du marqueur (= 2 m ens à l'end, marqueur, 2 m ens à l'end) et 1 m à la fin du rang. Bon tricot!

Beverley 22.07.2020 - 18:44:

On the slippers size 0-1 "When A.2 has been completed in height, work 2 RIDGES – ... decrease (6) 8-6-6-6- (10-14) stitches evenly on the last row from the right side = (30) 30-34-38-38 (42-42) stitches. Cut the strand." My last ROW is a Wrong side so therefore I cannot decrease on my last ROW on the right side?

DROPS Design 23.07.2020 kl. 07:12:

Hi Beverley, The decreases are worked on the second row from the right side, while working the ridges. Happy knitting!

Sandy Magesis 05.05.2020 - 00:14:

I’m knitting the shorts. The increases are written for every cm or 3/8 inch. 1 cm is closer to 6/8 inch. Can you please tell me which is correct.

DROPS Design 05.05.2020 kl. 11:23:

Dear Mrs Magesis, increases should be worked on every 1 cm = 0.39 inches (see converter into inches here. Happy knitting!

Gery Mol-kok 26.04.2020 - 20:59:

Ik heb een vraag over de slofjes ik wil de 2de maat breien nu moet is k stylen op de huisraad zetten en dan breien tot de gewenste lengte nu brei ik dit voor een kraamcadeau welke lengte moet ik dan aanhouden

Serina 21.04.2020 - 22:57:

Hei, jeg strikker tøffel. Og litt uti oppskriften står det at : "Strikk maskene fra tråden i den ene siden tilbake på rundpinnen". Men her skal det vel være settpinne og ikke rundpinne? Rundpinne er ikke nevnt tidligere i denne oppskriften.

DROPS Design 22.04.2020 kl. 15:25:

Hej Serina, ja det stemmer som du siger, tøflerne strikkes på settpinne :)

Sandra 12.04.2020 - 21:13:

De slofjes. Ik heb nu de middelste 8 steken gebreid tot de gewenste lengte. Er staat dan “ knip de draad af” is het dan ook de bedoeling dat die 8 steken afgekant worden. Dat staat er namelijk niet. Als ik verder lees kom ik er niet uit of ik deze steken nog nodig heb. Dank je wel alvast! Sandra

DROPS Design 13.04.2020 kl. 10:02:

Dag Sandra,

Het is de bedoeling dat je de draad afknipt. Je laat de 8 steken even staan. Dan plaats je de steken van de hulpdraad aan de ene kant van het werk op een breinaald zonder knop, je neemt vervolgens steken op langs de zijkant van het lapje van 8 steken wat je zojuist hebt gebreid, dan brei je de 8 steken en vervolgens neem je aan de andere zijkant steken op en zet je de steken van de hulpdraad aan de andere kant ook op de naald.

Shari 28.03.2020 - 16:39:

I am making the slippers and the instructions needs to be changed from A.3 to A.2 and from A.4 to A.3.

Nicole FORTIN 20.03.2020 - 18:46:

Bonjour, je ne saisis pas bien la concordance entre les tailles et le nombre de mailles à monter (chaussons)... pour un bb de 3 mois c'est 40 mailles ? merci

DROPS Design 23.03.2020 kl. 09:05:

Bonjour Mme Fortin, si vous tricotez la taille 1/3 mois alors tout à fait, vous suivez les 3èmes indications soit 40 mailles à monter. Bon tricot!

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