Odeta |
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The set consists of: Knitted baby jacket and slippers with lace pattern and garter stitch. Sizes premature - 4 years. The set is worked in DROPS BabyMerino.
DROPS Baby 31-3 |
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INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN: RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): 1 ridge = Knit 2 rows. PATTERN: Jacket: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. Slippers: See diagrams A.3 and A.4. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. DECREASE TIP (for jacket): Decrease inside the 1 band stitch in garter stitch. All decreases are made from the right side! Decrease as follows after the 1 band stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over. Decrease as follows before the 1 band stitch: Knit 2 together. ---------------------------------------------------------- JACKET: The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle. The body is worked first, then stitches are cast on for sleeves and the front and back pieces are finished separately. BODY: Cast on (111) 125-145-157-173 (181-205) stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and BabyMerino. Work as follows from the right side: Work (3) 2-4-2-2 (2-2) stitches GARTER STITCH – see description above – (= band), work A.1 (= 8 stitches) over the next (104) 120-136-152-168 (176-200) stitches (= (13) 15-17-19-21 (22-25) times in width), work A.2 (= 1 stitch) and finish with (3) 2-4-2-2 (2-2) stitches garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! On the last row in A.1 adjust the number of stitches to (112) 124-146-158-172 (182-204) stitches. When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, continue in garter stitch to finished length. The piece measures approx. (10) 12-16-16-16 (19-19) cm or (4") 4 ¾"-6 ¼"-6 ¼"-6 ¼" (7 ½"-7 ½"). Insert 1 marker (34) 37-44-48-52 (55-62) stitches in from each side. Allow the markers to follow your work onwards, they mark the front and back pieces = (44) 50-58-62-68 (72-80) stitches on back piece. READ THE WHOLE OF THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! DECREASE FOR NECK INSIDE 1 BAND STITCH IN EACH SIDE OF THE PIECE AT THE SAME TIME AS THE PIECE IS DIVIDED AND STITCHES ARE CAST ON FOR SLEEVES. DECREASE MID FRONT AS FOLLOWS: When the piece measures (10) 12-16-16-17 (20-23) cm or (4") 4 ¾"-6 ¼"-6 ¼"-6 ¾" (8"-9") – adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side, decrease 1 stitch for the neck inside the 1 band stitch in each side of the piece (= 2 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of (18) 18-22-24-26 (28-32) times, then every 4th row a total of 2 times. THE PIECE IS NOW DIVIDED AND STITCHES ARE CAST ON FOR THE SLEEVES AS FOLLOWS: RIGHT FRONT PIECE: When the piece measures (12) 15-19-20-21 (24-27) cm or (4 ¾") 6"-7 ½"-8"-8 ¼" (9 ½"-10 ⅝"), divide the piece at the 2 markers and the front and back pieces are finished separately. Adjust so that the next row is from the right side. Now work over all the stitches as far as the first marker (= right front piece). Place the remaining stitches on a thread. Cast on new stitches at the end of each row from the right side (= towards the side) for the sleeve as follows: Cast on (3) 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches a total of (4) 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times and then (16) 19-19-18-19 (23-26) stitches 1 time. When all the stitches are cast on for the sleeve and the decreases to neck are finished, there are (42) 52-63-70-79 (90-102) stitches on the needle for shoulder/sleeve. Work garter stitch until the piece measures (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm or (8") 9 ½"-11"-11 ¾"-10 ½" (14 ¼"-15 ¾"). Cast off. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Work over the last stitches which were placed on the thread, as far as the marker in the side. Work as for the right front piece, but in reverse. In other words, cast on stitches for the shoulder/sleeve at the end of each row from the wrong side. Continue to decrease inside the 1 band stitch at the end of each row from the right side as before (towards neck). BACK PIECE: = (44) 50-58-62-68 (72-80) stitches. Cast on new stitches at the end of each row in each side of the piece for the sleeves as follows: Cast on (3) 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches a total of (4) 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times and then (16) 19-19-18-19 (23-26) stitches 1 time = (100) 120-144-158-178 (202-228) stitches. When the piece measures (19) 23-27-29-31 (35-39) cm or (7 ½") 9"-10 ⅝"-11 ⅜"-12 ¼" (13 ¾"-15 ¼") cast off the middle (16) 16-18-18-20 (22-24) stitches for neck and each shoulder/sleeve is finished separately = (42) 52-63-70-79 (90-102) stitches left on each shoulder/sleeve. Work until the piece measures (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm or (8") 9 ½"-11"-11 ¾"-10 ½" (14 ¼"-15 ¾"), adjust to match the front pieces. Cast off. Work the other shoulder/sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the seams on top of sleeve with grafting stitches from the right side. Sew the seams under the sleeves edge to edge in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch. CROCHET EDGE: Crochet with hook size 2.5 mm/ US c/2 and BabyMerino around the whole jacket opening (i.e. work from the right front piece, up along the jacket opening, around the neck and down the opening to the cast on edge on the left front piece) as follows: ROW 1: Work 1 slip stitch in the cast on edge on the right front piece, * 1 chain stitch, skip approx. 2 stitches/rows, 1 single crochet in the next stitch/row *, work from *-* to the corner where the decreases for neck started. Work the cord as follows: 1 single crochet in the tip, then work chain stitches for approx. 20-25 cm (8"-9¾"), turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch, then work 1 single crochet in the tip of the front piece again, continue the crochet edge around the jacket and neck to the tip on the left front piece, work cord as on the right front piece, continue working down the left front piece and finish with 1 slip stitch in the cast on edge. ROW 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around the first chain stitch on the previous row, * 4 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, skip 1 single crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 single crochet, work 1 single crochet around the next chain stitch *, work from *-* (make sure you work over the cords so the cords lie underneath), finish with 1 slip stitch in the last stitch. Work rows 1 and 2 in the same way around the bottom of both sleeves (the rounds start with 1 chain stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch). Work 2 loose cords: Work chain stitches for approx. 20-25 cm or (8"-9 ¾"), turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch. Cut the strand and work 1 more cord in the same way. Sew 1 cord to the inside of the right side in the side and 1 cord on the outside of the left side in the side. Make sure the two cords are at the same height on each side. ---------------------------------------------------------- SLIPPER: The slipper is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid back, top down; i.e. you first work the leg then the foot. Cast on (36) 38-40-44-48 (52-56) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino. Work 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – see above, A.3 (= 2 stitches) until 1 stitch remains, work 1 stitch in garter stitch. When A.3 has been worked 1 time in height, work the next row from the right side as follows: Work (2) 3-0-2-0 (2-0) stitches stocking stitch, A.4 (= 8 stitches) a total of (4) 4-5-5-6 (6-7) times in width and finish with (2) 3-0-2-0 (2-0) stitches stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.4 has been completed 1 time in height continue with A.3 as follows: work 1 stitch in garter stitch, A.3 until 1 stitch remains, and work 1 stitch in garter stitch (the cord is later thread through this row of holes). When A.3 has been completed in height, work 2 RIDGES – see description above and decrease (6) 8-6-6-6- (10-14) stitches evenly on the last row from the right side = (30) 30-34-38-38 (42-42) stitches. Cut the strand. Now place the first (11) 11-12-13-13 (15-15) stitches and the last (11) 11-12-13-13 (15-15) stitches on two separate threads. The piece is now worked in garter stitch to finished length. Work (3) 3½-4-4½-5½ (6½-8) cm or (1 ⅛")1 ¼"-1 ½"-1 ¾"-2 ⅛" (2 ¼"-3 ⅛"), over the middle (8) 8-10-12-12 (12-12) stitches (= mid top of slipper), cut the strand. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work the stitches from the one thread in the one side back onto the double pointed needles, knit up (7) 9-10-11-13 (16-21) stitches in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch along the side of the middle piece, work the (8) 8-10-12-12 (12-12) stitches on the needle (= front), knit up (7) 9-10-11-13 (16-21) stitches in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch along the other side of the middle piece and work the stitches from the other thread back onto the double pointed needles = (44) 48-54-60-64 (74-84) stitches on the needles. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work a total of (2½) 3-3-4-5 (5-5) cm or (1") 1 ⅛"-1 ⅛"- 1 ½"-2" (2"-2") garter stitch over all stitches AT THE SAME TIME when you have worked approx. (1) 1½-1½-2-3 (3-3) cm or (⅜") ½"-½"-¾"-1 ⅛" (1 ⅛"-1 ⅛"), insert 1 marker (22) 24-27-30-32 (37-42) stitches in (= middle of slipper). Now decrease every 2nd row to finished length as follows: Knit 1 stitch, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, knit together the next 4 stitches, 2 and 2 (= 2 stitches decreased), knit until there are 3 stitches left, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 1 stitch (= 4 stitches decreased every 2nd row) = approx. (32) 36-42-48-52 (62-72) stitches. Cast off and sew the seam under the foot and up mid back in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat. Work 1 more slipper in the same way. CORD: Work a cord as follows: Work chain stitches with hook size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino for approx. 30-40 cm (11 ¾"-15 ¾"), turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch. Cut and fasten the strand. Thread the cord in and out of the row of holes on the slipper (start and finish mid front of slipper). ---------------------------------------------------------- For shorts see DROPS number 31-4. ---------------------------------------------------------- |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Comments / Questions (174)
Melanie Bacon wrote:
I am working on Odeta jacket, decreasing on front and increasing on sides of front. It says to add 6 stitches EVERY row on the side (for sleeve. To be clear: I add six stitches on the right hand needle, then turn the needles and immediately add 6 more before knitting back (on wrong side)? I used loop add on on the front, is there a good add on stitch for going back, given the first stitch is just a loop? I misread initially, started to add the 6stitches on right side only, am ripping out now
23.10.2024 - 21:02Melanie wrote:
Working on the jacket -finished lace portion and ready to start decreases, but directions are very vague. what is the “1 band stitch”? Does this mean the first/edge stitch?
09.10.2024 - 22:30DROPS Design answered:
Dear Melanie, yes, you will decrease after the first stitch from RS (right front piece) and before the last stitch from RS (left front piece) as explained under DECREASE TIP. Happy knitting!
10.10.2024 - 09:25Isariya Duncan wrote:
Hello there, awesomely cute design. Question on picking the correct A.1/A.2 to use for the size I want to make. I want to make the 6/9 month size, can you confirm I use the A.1/A.2 with the 68/74-80/86 pattern? I can't seem to find those numbers anywhere in the rest of the pattern to correlate them. Thank you.
27.09.2024 - 16:09DROPS Design answered:
Dear Isariya, the numbers are the: Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm, which you can find at the beginning of the pattern, in the materials section. For size 6/9 months, the length is 68/74 cm. Happy knitting!
29.09.2024 - 19:57Marie wrote:
Bonjour, Merci pour votre réponse. A la fin de a1, j'ai 10 cm de hauteur soit 6 cm de différence. Ce qui est énorme. Si je dégauge je n'aurai pas la bonne largeur. Que me conseillez-vous ? Merci
28.06.2024 - 09:32DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Marie, la différence paraît grande, avez-vous bien tricoté au point mousse dans A.1 comme indiqué? Vous devez avoir 11 -14 côtes mousse au total dans A.1. Quoi qu'il en soit, vous devez tricoter ensuite au point mousse, sans les diagrammes donc si votre tension point mousse est juste (48 rangs = 10 cm de hauteur), vous pouvez continuer simplement les indications. Bon tricot!
28.06.2024 - 13:51Marie wrote:
Bonjour, mon échantillon correspond à celui du patron à savoir 24mx48rgs. Je n'atteins pas les 16 cm (3 mois) à la fin du motif A1. Comment ce motif de 44 rgs peut il mesurer 16cm alors que l'échantillon de 48 rgs en mesure 10? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse.
27.06.2024 - 21:21DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Marie, l'échantillon de 48 rangs pour 10 cm est au point mousse or, dans le diagramme A.1 on va alterner point mousse et jersey, et comme il faut moins de rangs jersey que de rangs point mousse pour la même hauteur, on aura automatiquement plus de cm avec ces 44 rangs (mélange point mousse/jersey) - on doit avoir environ 32 rangs jersey pour 10 cm avec les aiguilles 3 (si cela peut vous aider).. Bon tricot!
28.06.2024 - 07:49Mrs Paula Carr wrote:
Iv worked the first 10 lines. I'm using the size 0/3 so i cast on 145 STS. But working the pattern it has decreased significantly is this right.
15.06.2024 - 17:35DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Paula, the stitch-count should not change when working the pattern, as in the diagram for every decrease there is a yarnover. Please see the diagrams carefully, and you might want to knit a swatch just with the pattern, so you can figure out the placement of those stitches. Happy Knitting!
16.06.2024 - 08:05Anna wrote:
Palun lisage heegeldamise osa ka skeemina. Tekstist on väga raske aru saada.
11.06.2024 - 20:38Safiye wrote:
Bonjour, tout d\'abord merci pour ce magnifique patron. Je vais commencer le gilet et des le départ j\'ai un souci. Le patron indiqué qu\'il faut monter les mailles, puis commencer directement le diagramme. Or, sur la photo il ya bien quelques rangs de point mousse. Je ne comprends pas très bien. Merci de votre explication.
11.06.2024 - 12:53DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Safiye, on commence de suite à tricoter les diagrammes, et, en suivant les 6 premiers rangs, vous aurez 3 côtes mouse (tricotez 1 rang endroit sur l'endroit, 1 rang endroit sur l'envers et répétez ces 2 rangs encore 2 fois pour les 6 premiers rangs, cf légende des symboles) Bon tricot!
12.06.2024 - 08:00Christine Jørgensen wrote:
Hej , jeg har nu strikket de fire mønstre af jakken ( rundpind str. 3 1/2 - størrelse 80/86) - dog arbejdet måler kun 14 cm. og ikke 16 cm. Hvis jeg nu strikker 3 cm i retstrik for at nå 17 cm, som der står i opskriften, vil hele jakken få rette størrelse til baby (80/86)?
17.05.2024 - 01:58DROPS Design answered:
Hej Christine, du finder målene til den valgte størrelse i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften, her kan du se hvilke mål du skal have :)
20.05.2024 - 15:39Rina Gresse wrote:
Can you please explain the meaning of the caracters in the diagram
28.04.2024 - 06:51DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mina, the meaning of each symbol is explaned just above the diagram. Happy Knitting!
28.04.2024 - 20:21