DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g

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Odeta

The set consists of: Knitted baby jacket and slippers with lace pattern and garter stitch. Sizes premature - 4 years. The set is worked in DROPS BabyMerino.

DROPS Baby 31-3
DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-084-by
Yarn group A
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FOR THE WHOLE SET YOU WILL NEED:
Sizes: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Fits foot length: (8) 9-10-11-12 (14-16) cm
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to Yarn group A)
(150) 150-150-200-200 (200-250) g colour 43, light sea green

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 MM – for edges and cord.
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JACKET:
Sizes: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio
(100) 150-150-150-150 (200-200) g colour 43, light sea green

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 MM – for edges and cord.
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SLIPPERS:
Sizes: (<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Fits foot length: (8) 9-10-11-12 (14-16) cm
Materials:
DROPS BABYMERINO from Garnstudio
(50) 50-50-50-50 (50-50) g colour 43, light sea green

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 51 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Jacket: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size.
Slippers: See diagrams A.3 and A.4.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (for jacket):
Decrease inside the 1 band stitch in garter stitch. All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease as follows after the 1 band stitch: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over.
Decrease as follows before the 1 band stitch: Knit 2 together.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle. The body is worked first, then stitches are cast on for sleeves and the front and back pieces are finished separately.

BODY:
Cast on (111) 125-145-157-173 (181-205) stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and BabyMerino. Work as follows from the right side: Work (3) 2-4-2-2 (2-2) stitches GARTER STITCH – see description above – (= band), work A.1 (= 8 stitches) over the next (104) 120-136-152-168 (176-200) stitches (= (13) 15-17-19-21 (22-25) times in width), work A.2 (= 1 stitch) and finish with (3) 2-4-2-2 (2-2) stitches garter stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! On the last row in A.1 adjust the number of stitches to (112) 124-146-158-172 (182-204) stitches.
When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, continue in garter stitch to finished length. The piece measures approx. (10) 12-16-16-16 (19-19) cm.
Insert 1 marker (34) 37-44-48-52 (55-62) stitches in from each side. Allow the markers to follow your work onwards, they mark the front and back pieces = (44) 50-58-62-68 (72-80) stitches on back piece.

READ THE WHOLE OF THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! DECREASE FOR NECK INSIDE 1 BAND STITCH IN EACH SIDE OF THE PIECE AT THE SAME TIME AS THE PIECE IS DIVIDED AND STITCHES ARE CAST ON FOR SLEEVES.
DECREASE MID FRONT AS FOLLOWS:
When the piece measures (10) 12-16-16-17 (20-23) cm – adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side, decrease 1 stitch for the neck inside the 1 band stitch in each side of the piece (= 2 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of (18) 18-22-24-26 (28-32) times, then every 4th row a total of 2 times.
THE PIECE IS NOW DIVIDED AND STITCHES ARE CAST ON FOR THE SLEEVES AS FOLLOWS:
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
When the piece measures (12) 15-19-20-21 (24-27) cm, divide the piece at the 2 markers and the front and back pieces are finished separately. Adjust so that the next row is from the right side. Now work over all the stitches as far as the first marker (= right front piece). Place the remaining stitches on a thread.
Cast on new stitches at the end of each row from the right side (= towards the side) for the sleeve as follows: Cast on (3) 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches a total of (4) 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times and then (16) 19-19-18-19 (23-26) stitches 1 time. When all the stitches are cast on for the sleeve and the decreases to neck are finished, there are (42) 52-63-70-79 (90-102) stitches on the needle for shoulder/sleeve. Work garter stitch until the piece measures (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm. Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work over the last stitches which were placed on the thread, as far as the marker in the side.
Work as for the right front piece, but in reverse. In other words, cast on stitches for the shoulder/sleeve at the end of each row from the wrong side. Continue to decrease inside the 1 band stitch at the end of each row from the right side as before (towards neck).

BACK PIECE:
= (44) 50-58-62-68 (72-80) stitches. Cast on new stitches at the end of each row in each side of the piece for the sleeves as follows: Cast on (3) 4-6-6-6 (6-6) stitches a total of (4) 4-4-5-6 (7-8) times and then (16) 19-19-18-19 (23-26) stitches 1 time = (100) 120-144-158-178 (202-228) stitches.
When the piece measures (19) 23-27-29-31 (35-39) cm cast off the middle (16) 16-18-18-20 (22-24) stitches for neck and each shoulder/sleeve is finished separately = (42) 52-63-70-79 (90-102) stitches left on each shoulder/sleeve. Work until the piece measures (20) 24-28-30-32 (36-40) cm, adjust to match the front pieces. Cast off. Work the other shoulder/sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the seams on top of sleeve with grafting stitches from the right side. Sew the seams under the sleeves edge to edge in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch.

CROCHET EDGE:
Crochet with hook size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino around the whole jacket opening (i.e. work from the right front piece, up along the jacket opening, around the neck and down the opening to the cast on edge on the left front piece) as follows:
ROW 1: Work 1 slip stitch in the cast on edge on the right front piece, * 1 chain stitch, skip approx. 2 stitches/rows, 1 double crochet in the next stitch/row *, work from *-* to the corner where the decreases for neck started. Work the cord as follows: 1 double crochet in the tip, then work chain stitches for approx. 20-25 cm, turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch, then work 1 double crochet in the tip of the front piece again, continue the crochet edge around the jacket and neck to the tip on the left front piece, work cord as on the right front piece, continue working down the left front piece and finish with 1 slip stitch in the cast on edge.
ROW 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet around the first chain stitch on the previous row, * 4 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, skip 1 double crochet + 1 chain stitch + 1 double crochet, work 1 double crochet around the next chain stitch *, work from *-* (make sure you work over the cords so the cords lie underneath), finish with 1 slip stitch in the last stitch.
Work rows 1 and 2 in the same way around the bottom of both sleeves (the rounds start with 1 chain stitch and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch).
Work 2 loose cords: Work chain stitches for approx. 20-25 cm, turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch. Cut the strand and work 1 more cord in the same way. Sew 1 cord to the inside of the right side in the side and 1 cord on the outside of the left side in the side. Make sure the two cords are at the same height on each side.
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SLIPPER:
The slipper is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid back, top down; i.e. you first work the leg then the foot.
Cast on (36) 38-40-44-48 (52-56) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino. Work 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – see above, A.3 (= 2 stitches) until 1 stitch remains, work 1 stitch in garter stitch
. When A.3 has been worked 1 time in height, work the next row from the right side as follows: Work (2) 3-0-2-0 (2-0) stitches stocking stitch, A.4 (= 8 stitches) a total of (4) 4-5-5-6 (6-7) times in width and finish with (2) 3-0-2-0 (2-0) stitches stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.4 has been completed 1 time in height continue with A.3 as follows: work 1 stitch in garter stitch, A.3 until 1 stitch remains, and work 1 stitch in garter stitch (the cord is later thread through this row of holes). When A.3 has been completed in height, work 2 RIDGES – see description above and decrease (6) 8-6-6-6- (10-14) stitches evenly on the last row from the right side = (30) 30-34-38-38 (42-42) stitches. Cut the strand.
Now place the first (11) 11-12-13-13 (15-15) stitches and the last (11) 11-12-13-13 (15-15) stitches on two separate threads. The piece is now worked in garter stitch to finished length. Work (3) 3½-4-4½-5½ (6½-8) cm, over the middle (8) 8-10-12-12 (12-12) stitches (= mid top of slipper), cut the strand.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work the stitches from the one thread in the one side back onto the double pointed needles, knit up (7) 9-10-11-13 (16-21) stitches in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch along the side of the middle piece, work the (8) 8-10-12-12 (12-12) stitches on the needle (= front), knit up (7) 9-10-11-13 (16-21) stitches in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch along the other side of the middle piece and work the stitches from the other thread back onto the double pointed needles = (44) 48-54-60-64 (74-84) stitches on the needles. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work a total of (2½) 3-3-4-5 (5-5) cm garter stitch over all stitches AT THE SAME TIME when you have worked approx. (1) 1½-1½-2-3 (3-3) cm, insert 1 marker (22) 24-27-30-32 (37-42) stitches in (= middle of slipper). Now decrease every 2nd row to finished length as follows:
Knit 1 stitch, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, knit together the next 4 stitches, 2 and 2 (= 2 stitches decreased), knit until there are 3 stitches left, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 1 stitch (= 4 stitches decreased every 2nd row) = approx. (32) 36-42-48-52 (62-72) stitches.
Cast off and sew the seam under the foot and up mid back in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat.
Work 1 more slipper in the same way.

CORD:
Work a cord as follows: Work chain stitches with hook size 2.5 mm and BabyMerino for approx. 30-40 cm, turn and work back with 1 slip stitch in each chain stitch. Cut and fasten the strand.
Thread the cord in and out of the row of holes on the slipper (start and finish mid front of slipper).

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For shorts see DROPS number 31-4.
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This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 08.11.2023
When diagram A.3 is worked on slippers, the first and the last stitch will be worked in garter stitch.

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

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See more

Odeta

Cosyknitsandcoffee, Finland

Odeta

Joe5, France

Twin Sister

Martins, United Kingdom

Odeta

Sylvia, Germany

Odeta Jacket

Daisy, Estonia

Babyjäckchen

Sonngard, Germany

B31-3 a Odeta Jacket

Egita, Latvia

Odeta Jacket

Sofylo, France

Odeta

Cosyknitsandcoffee, Finland

Odeta

Joe5, France

Twin Sister

Martins, United Kingdom

Odeta

Sylvia, Germany

Odeta Jacket

Daisy, Estonia

Babyjäckchen

Sonngard, Germany

B31-3 a Odeta Jacket

Egita, Latvia

Odeta Jacket

Sofylo, France

Comments / Questions (180)

Jane wrote:

Hi with this pattern I was looking for the hat also. Please and thanks

30.11.2024 - 23:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Jane, you can find the pattern for the hat here. Happy knitting!

01.12.2024 - 19:18

Rita Briggs wrote:

The jacket. Please explain why after casting on 125 the pattern = 120 a1 and a2 1stitch where are the rest?

08.11.2024 - 15:51

Dear Mrs Briggs, work the 125 stitches as follows: 2 sts in garter stitch, then repeat the 8 stitches in A.1 a total of 15 times (over the next 8x15= 120 stitches), then work the stitch in A.2 (so that pattern is symmetrical) and finish with 2 stitches in garter stitch = 2+120+1+2=125. From Wrong side, read diagrams from the left towards the right and work: 2 sts in garter stitch, 1 st A.2, 8 sts A.1 x 15 and 2 sts in garter stitch. Happy knitting!

08.11.2024 - 16:03

Stefanie Lorenz wrote:

Guten Abend! Ich habe das Jäckchen gestrickt, habe aber das Gefühl, dass ein Band zu kurz ist. Wird das Band am linken Vorderteil durch die Kraus-Rechts-Rippen gezogen und am Rücken entlang nach wieder vorne? Dafür würde es nämlich nicht reichen. Danke für eure Hilfe! Stefanie

26.10.2024 - 21:46

Liebe Frau Lorenz, bei der 1. Reihe der Häkelkante wird man 2 Bänder häkeln, dann wird man 2 separate Bindebänder häkeln, die jeweils an der Innenseite an der rechten Seite der Jacke anbringen und an der Außenseite der linken Seite angenäht werden (so sind es insgesamt 4 Bänder). Viel Spaß beim Häkeln!

28.10.2024 - 09:14

Melanie wrote:

I am questioning my math skills! Doing jacket, size 1/3, you split the stitches: 44 on each side, 58 for back. On each side, you decrease 1 stitch every other row x 18, then one every 4 rows x2. This means reduced by 20 to a total of 24. You increase on sleeve side of the front piece 6x4 (24) plus 19, totaling 43 added stitches to the 24 = 67, not 63 (which pattern says you will have). I have reread several times, what am I missing?

26.10.2024 - 05:16

Dear Melanie, in the 3rd size you will decreasee first 22 times on every 2nd row then 2 times on every 4th row = 24 times/stitches so that you will have: 44 sts - 24 + (for sleeves: 24+19)=63 stitches. Happy knitting!

28.10.2024 - 10:25

I think it helps. The language is not consistent - it’s reversed but meaning the same thing, and that is actually what I was doing as it made most sense. Thanks so much for your patience.

24.10.2024 - 20:47

Melanie Bacon wrote:

Just to be clear - it says to decrease every other, increase every row. Are the decreases every other row or every other right side row (like the increases). Sorry I’m finding this confusing. Lovely jacket so far!

24.10.2024 - 14:32

Dear Mrs Bacon, when you decrease on mid front you decrease on every other row = on every row from right side then on every 4th row (= on every other row from right side); you increase at the end of every row from mid front towards side/sleeve = on every other row worked. The decrease for neck are worked towards opening on jacket, the stitches increased for sleeves are worked towards side. Can this help?

24.10.2024 - 15:14

I am working on Odeta jacket, decreasing on front and increasing on sides of front. It says to add 6 stitches EVERY row on the side (for sleeve. To be clear: I add six stitches on the right hand needle, then turn the needles and immediately add 6 more before knitting back (on wrong side)? I used loop add on on the front, is there a good add on stitch for going back, given the first stitch is just a loop? I misread initially, started to add the 6stitches on right side only, am ripping out now

23.10.2024 - 21:02

Dear Mrs Bacon, the new stitches for sleeve will be added at the end of every row from the mid front towards side/sleeve, ie on every other row from RS on right front piece/from WS on left front piece. You an use the technique shown in this lesson for example. Happy knitting!

24.10.2024 - 09:22

Working on the jacket -finished lace portion and ready to start decreases, but directions are very vague. what is the “1 band stitch”? Does this mean the first/edge stitch?

09.10.2024 - 22:30

Dear Melanie, yes, you will decrease after the first stitch from RS (right front piece) and before the last stitch from RS (left front piece) as explained under DECREASE TIP. Happy knitting!

10.10.2024 - 09:25

Isariya Duncan wrote:

Hello there, awesomely cute design. Question on picking the correct A.1/A.2 to use for the size I want to make. I want to make the 6/9 month size, can you confirm I use the A.1/A.2 with the 68/74-80/86 pattern? I can't seem to find those numbers anywhere in the rest of the pattern to correlate them. Thank you.

27.09.2024 - 16:09

Dear Isariya, the numbers are the: Size equivalent to approx. child’s length in cm, which you can find at the beginning of the pattern, in the materials section. For size 6/9 months, the length is 68/74 cm. Happy knitting!

29.09.2024 - 19:57

Marie wrote:

Bonjour, Merci pour votre réponse. A la fin de a1, j'ai 10 cm de hauteur soit 6 cm de différence. Ce qui est énorme. Si je dégauge je n'aurai pas la bonne largeur. Que me conseillez-vous ? Merci

28.06.2024 - 09:32

Bonjour Marie, la différence paraît grande, avez-vous bien tricoté au point mousse dans A.1 comme indiqué? Vous devez avoir 11 -14 côtes mousse au total dans A.1. Quoi qu'il en soit, vous devez tricoter ensuite au point mousse, sans les diagrammes donc si votre tension point mousse est juste (48 rangs = 10 cm de hauteur), vous pouvez continuer simplement les indications. Bon tricot!

28.06.2024 - 13:51

	DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 100% Wool	3.50 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Baby Merino mix 100% Wool	3.50 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 100% Wool 3.50 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Baby Merino mix 100% Wool 3.50 £ /50g Order

Odeta

The set consists of: Knitted baby jacket and slippers with lace pattern and garter stitch. Sizes premature - 4 years. The set is worked in DROPS BabyMerino.

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Odeta

The set consists of: Knitted baby jacket and slippers with lace pattern and garter stitch. Sizes premature - 4 years. The set is worked in DROPS BabyMerino.

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