DROPS / 190 / 15

Strawberry Sorbet by DROPS Design

Knitted shawl with garter stitch, lace pattern and semi-circle shape. The piece is worked top down in DROPS Flora.

Tags: lace, shawls, stripes,
DROPS Design: Pattern no fl-031
Yarn group A
Length measured along top: approx. 176 cm / 69 1/4''.
Height measured in middle: approx. 64 cm / 25 1/4''.
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200 g color 20, peach pink
100 g color 01, off white

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – or the size needed to get 20 stitches and 39 rows garter stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Flora uni colour DROPS Flora uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Flora mix DROPS Flora mix 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.30$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

The shawl is worked top down. Work back and forth on circular needle so that you have room for all the stitches.

Cast on 7 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and peach pink.
Work as follows from the right side: Knit 1 stitch, * 1 yarn over, knit1 stitch *, repeat from *-* a total of 6 times = 13 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Now insert 6 marker threads in the piece without working the stitches, the marker threads are inserted in the stitches and follow your work upwards. Insert the marker threads in the following stitches: Stitch 2, stitch 4, stitch 6, stitch 8, stitch 10 and stitch 12.

Then work and increase as follows:
Knit 1 row and increase by making a yarn over before each stitch with a marker thread = 6 yarn overs.
NOTE! All yarn overs are then knitted to leave holes.
Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side (without increasing) and knit 1 row from the wrong side = 19 stitches.
Knit 1 row and increase by making a yarn over after each stitch with a marker thread = 6 yarn overs.
Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side (without increasing) and knit 1 row from the wrong side = 25 stitches.
Knit 1 row and increase by making a yarn over before each stitch with a marker thread = 6 yarn overs.
Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side (without increasing) and knit 1 row from the wrong side = 31 stitches.
Knit 1 row and increase by making a yarn over after each stitch with a marker thread = 6 yarn overs.
Knit 1 row from the wrong side, knit 1 row from the right side (without increasing) and knit 1 row from the wrong side = 37 stitches.

Continue with the same increases, but in addition, you will work short rows. Work as follows:
ROW 1 with short row (= right side): Knit 2 stitches, 1 yarn over and knit to first stitch with a marker thread on this row, turn and knit back from the wrong side. Then knit 1 row from the right side where you increase before/after the marker thread stitches.
ROW 2 with short row (= wrong side): Knit 2 stitches, 1 yarn over and knit to first stitch with a marker thread on this row, turn and knit back from the right side. Then knit 1 row from the wrong side = a total of 8 stitches increased on rows 1-2.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Knit.

Continue by repeating rows 1-4 (increase alternately before and after the marker thread stitches as before) until the piece measures approx. 35 cm / 13 3/4'' (rows 1-4 have been worked a total of 30 times) and there are 277 stitches on the needle.

Now work stripes with off white and peach pink as follows: * Change to off white and work rows 1 and 2 (with short rows). Change to peach pink and work rows 3 and 4 *. Repeat from *-* until the piece measures approx. 51 cm / 20'' (rows 1-4 are worked with stripes a total of 16 times) and there are 405 stitches on the needle.
From here, work with off white to finished length.
Repeat rows 1-2 one more time = 413 stitches on needle.
Work 1 RIDGE - see description above, and increase 10 stitches evenly on the first row of these ridges as follows: Knit 22 stitches, * 1 yarn over, knit 41 stitches *, repeat from *-* a total of 9 times and make 1 yarn over and knit 22 stitches. Knit 1 row where all yarn overs are knitted twisted = 423 stitches (the number of stitches is divisible by 22 + 5 stitches).

Now continue working according to diagram A.1 with off white and stockinette stitch. (Row 1 = right side): Work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 over the next 418 stitches (= 19 times in width and there are 3 stitches left on the row), work 1 stitch stockinette stitch and 2 edge stitches in garter stitch. Work the diagram like this 1 time in height. The piece measures approx. 63 cm / 24 3/4'' and there are 537 stitches on the needle.

On the next row from the right side, you will bind off with i-cord binding off. It is important that the edge is bind off loosely so that the shawl has a nice shape and hangs neatly. You can use a larger needle size to bind off if necessary and make sure that all stitches are loose.
Work and bind off as follows: * Knit 2 stitches, the next 2 stitches are knitted twisted together. Push the 3 stitches from the right needle back onto the left needle (in the same order) *, repeat from *-* until all stitches on the left needle have been bind off and there are 3 stitches left on the right needle.
Push the stitches onto the left needle and cast them off with knit. Cut the strand and sew together the bind-off from the last 3 stitches so that the end of the shawl is neat. Fasten all loose strands.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, purl the yarn over on the next row to leave a hole
= knit 2 stitches together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 stitch and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 2 stitches as if to knit them together, knit 1 stitch and pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knitted stitch

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 190-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (29)

Mrs Louise Irvine 13.11.2020 - 12:30:

Hi. Thank you for all the lovely free patterns, and your yarn is fab! Am I right in thinking that the short rows are only from the start of the right/wrong side, to the first stitch marker? Thanks in anticipation.

DROPS Design 13.11.2020 kl. 15:27:

Deaer Mrs Irvine, thank you very much for your feedback - and you are right, short rows are worked from the beg of row to the first marker on each side only. Happy knitting!

Camilla 27.05.2020 - 21:33:

När det står att man ska sticka fram till första maskan med markör på vid VARV 1 på förkortat varv. Ska man sticka den maskan också eller bara sticka till den maskan som är innan maskan med markör på? Och sen när man vänder för att sticka räta maskor tillbaka på det aviga varvet, ska man då lyfta den första maskan?

DROPS Design 05.06.2020 kl. 09:23:

Hej Camilla, ja du stickar bara till den maskan med markör och vänder innan. Ja man kan lyfta första maskan och man kan även sticka den. Titta gärna hur man kan göra i vår video längst ner på sidan i mönstret :)

Lucia Dhaenens 28.04.2020 - 13:58:

Kan deze omslagsjaal ook met gewone breinaalden gemaakt worden ? Ik heb geen ervaring met rondbreinaalden en dat lijkt mij niet praktisch. Met vriendelijke groet

DROPS Design 28.04.2020 kl. 20:00:

Dag Lucia,

Deze omslagdoek wordt met de rondbreinaald gebreid omdat je op een gegeven moment heel veel steken op de naald hebt. (Meer dan 500.) Met gewone naalden lukt dat niet.

Anne 22.01.2020 - 11:29:

Vielen Dank für die vielen vielen tollen Strickanleitungen. Achtung allerdings, bei dieser: ich bin mit den Garnmengen hier nicht hingekommen: man braucht meines Erachtens 150g von jeder Farbe. Ich habe mit den angegeben Mengen schließlich die weiße Bordüre mit Apriko gestrickt, musste sie allerdings etwas verkürzen um hinzukommen. Den I-Cord-Abschluss hab ich dann mit dem weißen Rest gemacht. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

Massetti Anna Maria 30.11.2019 - 09:59:

Sto realizzando il modello Strawberry Sorbet, ma sono un difficoltà a proseguire la parte finale in bianco. Non mi è chiaro se la ripetizione dei ferri 1 e 2 la devo fare subito. E poi cosa vuol dIre lavorare 1 costa e leggerela descrizione sopra, ma dove? Se potete aiutarmi. Grazie

DROPS Design 30.11.2019 kl. 21:02:

Buonasera Anna Maria, quando inizia a lavorare a strisce, lavorerà il ferro 1 e 2 con il panna e il 3 e 4 con il rosa. Lavora in questo modo fino a 51 cm, poi solo con il panna e inizierà con il ferro 1 e 2. Per la costa, abbiamo aggiunto le spiegazioni all'inizio, comunque deve lavorare 2 ferri a diritto. Buon lavoro!

Anna Maria Massetti 15.10.2019 - 14:56:

Non riesco a comprendere il ferro 1 a ferri accorciati del modello Strawberry Sorbet o meglio, dopo il primo giro del lavoro al primo segnapunti come proseguo sul resto del lavoro e perchè dice di diminuire prima/dopo le maglie con i segnapunti? Sarebbe utile un video di spiegazione. Ho acquistato la lana ed ora non riesco ad andare avanti nella realizzazione del modello. Grazie

DROPS Design 15.10.2019 kl. 16:11:

Buongiorno Anna Maria. Abbiamo corretto il testo: si deve aumentare. Lavora il primo ferro a ferri accorciati come segue: lavora come indicato fino alla maglia con il 1° segnapunti, gira e lavora il ferro di ritorno a diritto. Poi lavora il ferro successivo aumentando o prima o dopo ogni maglia con il segnapunti (quando aumenta, alterna gli aumenti una volta prima, una volta dopo i segnapunti come fatto fino ad adesso). Buon lavoro!

Ver 19.09.2019 - 16:14:

Hola el patron esta disponible en español? no lo encuentro, si alguien me puede guiar le agradezco mucho

DROPS Design 24.09.2019 kl. 23:55:

Hola Ver, Aquí está el link: https://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=8476&cid=23. Para cambiar de idioma pulsa el botón bajo la foto.

Annedore 15.07.2019 - 09:05:

Hallo ihr lieben, danke auch von mir für die vielen kostenlosen Anleitungen. Ich hab das Tuch mit einer dünnen wolle gestrickt und es kleiner gemacht , sieht auch gut aus. Da kommt man mit 100g auch schon ziemlich weit.Die verkürzten Reihen sind ne gute Idee,allerdings finde ich, dass sich das Tuch so sehr ausdehnt und verzieht, mal sehen wie es sich nach dem dämpfen und spannen verhält

Lilou 02.06.2019 - 09:14:

Bonjour, il y a pas mal de modèles que j'aimerai bien faire, mais qui me rebute, soit parce que les explications et/ou diagrammes sont trop compliqués. De plus, beaucoup trop de modèles avec aiguilles doubles pointes!!! en fait, beaucoup trop de modèles, pour tricoteuses averties. Dommage!.

DROPS Design 03.06.2019 kl. 10:55:

Bonjour Lilou, pensez à consulter notre FAQ et notre rubrique Astuces & Aide, vous y trouverez notamment comment adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!

Laurence 01.06.2019 - 23:55:

Bonjour, pouvez vous m’expliquer comment on fait suivre le fil marqueur d’un rang à l’autre quand il se trouve dans la maille et non entre 2 mailles. Franchement je n’y arrive pas et je n’ai pas trouver de vidéo. Merci par avance.

DROPS Design 04.06.2019 kl. 08:40:

Bonjour Laurence, vous pouvez utiliser des marqueurs que vous pourrez accrocher sur chacune des mailles indiquées, ou bien mettre un fil marqueur avant (sur l'endroit) la maille concernée. Bon tricot!

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