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  1. Free patterns
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  6. 190
  7. 12

Sunburst by DROPS Design

Crocheted shawl with squares and fringes. The piece is worked in DROPS Cotton Merino.

Keywords: granny square, patchwork, shawl, square

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DROPS 190-12
DROPS Design: Pattern no cm-077
Yarn group B
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Measurements: Width at top: 168 cm / 66''. Length in middle: 95 cm without tassels.
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
300 g color 28, powder
50 g color 04, lilac
50 g color 06, red
50 g color 10, pistachio
50 g color 13, coral
50 g color 14, cerise
50 g color 15, mustard
50 g color 23, lavender
50 g color 24, turquoise
50 g color 29, sea green
NOTE: If the garment is worked in one color, you will need approx. 500 g Cotton Merino.

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM/US 7 – or the size needed to get 16 double crochets and 8 rows on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height. 1crochet square should measure 15 x 15 cm / 6''

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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50% Wool, 50% Cotton 		from 4.45 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 66.75$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.
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SHAWL:
36 crochet squares are worked with different color combinations; these are crocheted together to finish.

CROCHET SQUARE:
Start with hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 and Cotton Merino. Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 and work 1 square of each of the 18 different color combinations described below. Then work all 18 different color combinations 1 more time BUT change colors 2 and 3 in each combination = 36 crochet squares.
NOTE: Color combinations 2 and 5 are the same with reversed colors. Color combinations 10 and 14 are the same with reversed colors. When all the squares have been completed, there are therefore 4 squares which have the same colors as another square (= 8 squares). The other 28 squares have different color combinations.

COLOR COMBINATION 1:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: pistachio
ROUND 3: lavender
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 2:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: red
ROUND 3: sea green
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 3:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: cerise
ROUND 3: mustard
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 4:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: lilac
ROUND 3: cerise
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 5:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: sea green
ROUND 3: red
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 6:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: turquoise
ROUND 3: pistachio
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 7:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: sea green
ROUND 3: turquoise
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 8:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: pistachio
ROUND 3: lilac
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 9:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: lavender
ROUND 3: coral
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 10:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: red
ROUND 3: coral
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 11:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: turquoise
ROUND 3: lilac
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 12:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: coral
ROUND 3: turquoise
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 13:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: cerise
ROUND 3: pistachio
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 14:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: coral
ROUND 3: red
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 15:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: mustard
ROUND 3: cerise
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 16:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: lavender
ROUND 3: mustard
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 17:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: mustard
ROUND 3: sea green
ROUNDS 4-5: powder

COLOR COMBINATION 18:
Chain stitch ring on start of round + ROUND 1: powder
ROUND 2: lilac
ROUND 3: lavender
ROUNDS 4-5: powder




ASSEMBLY:
Lay the crochet squares as shown in the sketch. The numbers in the sketch show where the different color combinations should be. The numbers with A behind show the first 18 color combinations worked and the numbers with B show the last 18 (i.e. those crocheted with reversed colors in rounds 2 and 3).
It is a good idea to fasten the squares together temporarily by tying them with a thread, so that they do not move too much as you assemble them. 

Lay the squares wrong side to wrong side and crochet from the right side with powder through both layers. Work from arrow 1 along the thick line and then across and down to the star between 6A and 4B as follows – see sketch:
Work 1 single crochet around the chain-space outermost in the corner of the 2 crochet squares, * work 6 chain stitches, (1 single crochet around the next chain-space, 4 chain stitches), work from (-) 3 more times, work 1 single crochet around the next chain-space, 6 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around the chain-space in the corner, 2 chain stitches (= in the transition between 2 crochet squares), 1 single crochet around the next chain-space in the corner (= new crochet square) *, work from *-* until 7 crochet squares have been worked together with their adjacent squares (i.e. as far as 6A) but finish with a single crochet around the last chain-space in the corner. Now continue working along the thick line and down to the star: 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet around the chain-space in the corner (i.e. the same chain-space on crochet square 4B and chain-space in the corner of 6A), and continue to work in the same way as before down to the star, but finish with 1 single crochet around the chain-space in the corner. Cut and fasten the strand.

Work like this from arrow 2, arrow 3, etc., until all the crochet squares have been worked together. Cut and fasten the strands.

TASSELS:
Cut 16 strands powder of 26 cm/10 1/4", fold them double. Use a crochet hook and pull the middle of the strands through the chain-space in the corner outermost on the side of 6A, pull the ends of the strands through the loop and tighten. Fasten tassels along the whole of the bottom edge of the shawl, in every other chain-space. To get the tassels to hang neatly, you can dip them in/spray them with water, then shake them out and hang the shawl to dry over a chair so that the tassels hang down while they dry.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = work 5 chain stitches and form them into a circle with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. The black spot on the circle is the beginning of the round
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 6 chain stitches
symbols = 1 double crochet around the chain-stitch ring
symbols = 1 treble crochet around the chain stitch
symbols = 1 single crochet around chain stitch/chain-stitch ring
symbols = The round starts with 3 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round, then work 1 slip stitch around the first chain stitch
symbols = The round starts with 4 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain stitch at the beginning of the round, then work 1 slip stitch around the first chain stitch
symbols = The round starts with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round, then work slip stitches as far as the top of the first chain-space.
symbols = The round starts with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round. Cut the strand and continue around the first chain-space on the round.
symbols = 12 chain stitches
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 190-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (5)

country flag Debbie Bullen wrote:

Thank you for your reply. I have used this technique on another Drops blanket but the sunburst shawl instructions indicate that dc bd chains should be worked with two squares on top of each other (wrong side to wrong side) as opposed to working from one to the other making the zig zig pattern. Can I confirm that that is correct. Hope I'm making sense. Thanks very much.

04.08.2020 - 16:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bullen, oh oops you are right sorry, these squares are worked together from RS, this means you will crochet the dc around both chain spaces ( of each square), with the chains in between. I don't think we have a video for this technique, but you just have to work the squares together from WS chain between dc and work the dc around the ch-spaces of both squares, this way, the squares will be next to each other tighter than with the other technique. Happy assembly!

05.08.2020 kl. 07:46

country flag Debbie Bullen wrote:

Thank you for the lovely pattern. This is the first time using a diagram to crochet and the squares are really lovely. However, I'm finding it difficult understanding the assembly and wondered whether there was a better tutorial to follow. I have watched the recommended tutorial but it is not the same by the look of the instructions in the Sunburst Shawl. Any help would be great. Thank you.

04.08.2020 - 11:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bullen, this video shows for another pattern how to crochet squares together - the technique is the same as for the shawl, you will just here crochet 4/6 chains between each dc and work 1 dc in each chain-space - but this should help you to understand the technique of crochet together. Happy crocheting!

04.08.2020 kl. 13:45

country flag Margaret K Weller wrote:

Utter Beauty!

22.06.2019 - 19:26

country flag Ola wrote:

Dlaczego schemat jest inny niż kwadraty przedstawione w chuście ? Proszę o odpowiedź.

01.07.2018 - 14:39

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Olu, wg mnie schemat się zgadza. Czy już zaczęłaś go wykonywać? Jeśli tak napisz co według Ciebie się nie zgadza, sprawdzimy. Pozdrawiamy

02.07.2018 kl. 21:30

country flag Birgitta Svaneblom wrote:

Hej. Den är så vacker låt den bli med

21.12.2017 - 19:21

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