DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.25$. Read more.

Carly Pullover

Knitted sweater with raglan, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

DROPS 186-30
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-103
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 01, off white

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 5.5 MM/US 9 – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.25$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of A.1 (= 8 stitches increased per round). Increase by making 1 yarn over, on the next round work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the round (e.g. 168 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 24) = 7. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after every 7th stitch. On the next round, work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, knit 2 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches) knit the next 2 stitches together.
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The piece is worked in the round with circular needle from mid back, top down. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

SWEATER:
Cast on 80-84-88-96-96-104 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and Air. Knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 2 cm / 3/4''. The beginning of the round = mid back.
Change to circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 and work the next round as follows: Knit 15-16-17-18-18-20 stitches - AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2-1-2-2-2-3 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches, knit 30-32-34-36-36-40 stitches – AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 4-2-4-4-4-6 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches, knit 15-16-17-18-18-20 stitches – AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2-1-2-2-2-3 stitches evenly over these stitches = 88-88-96-104-104-116 stitches. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!

The next round is worked as follows: Knit 14-14-16-17-17-20 stitches (=half back piece), A.1 (= 6 stitches), knit 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches (= sleeve), A.1, knit 28-28-32-34-34-40 stitches (= front piece), A.1, knit 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches (= sleeve), A.1, knit 14-14-16-17-17-20 stitches (= half back piece). Continue this pattern at the same time as you increase 1 stitch on each side of A.1 to RAGLAN – see description above. Increase every 2nd round a total of 20-23-23-26-28-30 times. After all the increases there are 248-272-280-312-328-356 stitches on the needle. Continue with pattern and stockinette stitch (without increasing) until the piece measures 23-26-27-29-31-33 cm / 9"-10 1/4"-10½"-11½"-12 1/4"-13'' from the cast-on edge mid front.

Work the next round as follows: Work 39-42-43-48-52-57 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 46-52-54-60-60-64 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-10-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve), knit 78-84-86-96-104-114 stitches (= front piece), place the next 46-52-54-60-60-64 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-10-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve), and work the remaining 39-42-43-48-52-57 stitches (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 168-180-192-208-228-248 stitches. Insert a marker. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. Continue in the round with stockinette stitch until the piece measures 25-24-25-24-24-24 cm / 9 3/4"-9½"-9 3/4"-9½"-9½"-9½''. Knit 1 round where you increase 24-28-28-32-36-36 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP = 192-208-220-240-264-284 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 5 cm / 2''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - to avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 / US 9. The piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. Place the 46-52-54-60-60-64 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on circular needle/double pointed needles size 5.5 mm/US 9 and in addition cast on 6-6-10-8-10-10 new stitches mid under sleeve = 52-58-64-68-70-74 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. Work stockinette stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 4-3-2-2-1½-1½ cm / 1½"-1"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½"'' a total of 9-11-14-15-15-16 times = 34-36-36-38-40-42 stitches. When the piece measures 36-34-33-31-30-29 cm / 14 1/4"-13½"-13"-12 1/4"-11 3/4"-11½'' knit 1 round where you increase 6-4-8-6-8-6 stitches evenly on round = 40-40-44-44-48-48 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). Continue with rib for 5 cm / 2'', then bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 42-40-39-37-36-35 cm / 16½"-15 3/4"-15 1/4"14½"14 1/4"-13 3/4''. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 186-30

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Comments / Questions (128)

country flag Veronique wrote:

Pourriez vous réexpliquer le calcul des augmenatations à intervalles dans ce patron Carly Pullover Au début du pull. Comment en arrive t-on à 88 mailles avec toutes ces augmentations en partant de 84 mailles du début?Taille Medium

03.03.2024 - 03:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Véronique, vous allez tricoter ainsi: 16 mailles en augmentant 1 m = 17, puis vous tricotez 10 mailles, puis les 32 m suivantes en augmentant 2 mailles = 34 m, puis vous tricotez 10 mailles et tricotez les 16 dernières mailles en augmentant 1 m = 17 m, vous avez ainsi augmenté 2 mailles pour le devant et 2 mailles pour le dos (1 par demi-dos), vous avez maintenant 88 mailles. Bon tricot!

04.03.2024 - 08:54

country flag Martine wrote:

Bonjour, Je souhaiterai faire ce modèle avec la qualité Drops Air ; pour la taille M vous conseillez de prendre 300 g soit 5 pelotes, si j'ai bien compris. Par contre, sur la pelote, il est conseillé d'en acheter 8 soit 300 g pour un 38/40. Merci pour votre réponse. Cdlt

31.01.2024 - 19:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, la quantité requise dépend, en plus de la taille, de la forme du modèle, du point utilisé, de la tension, etc... Pour ce pull en taille M il faut effectivement 300 g DROPS Air soit 6 pelotes de 50 g. Bon tricot!

01.02.2024 - 08:21

country flag Vaillant Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour j ai un doute pour mesurer les 27 cm je fais la taille L je mesure droit sur le devant ??et non le raglan. Merci par avance pour votre réponse isabelle

03.08.2023 - 16:49

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Vaillant, posez votre ouvrage le plus à plat possible et mesurez à partir du rang de montage, au milieu du devant. Bon tricot!

07.08.2023 - 09:17

country flag Maren wrote:

Hey, jeg lurer på om det er mulig å strikke denne oppskriften med en tråd drops air OG en tråd drops kid-silk for å få genseren litt mer fyldig? Bør jeg foreta meg noen endringer i forhold til oppskriften eller er det bare å følge den slik som den er?

25.07.2023 - 11:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Maren, Når du bruker et garn til, i tillegg til Drops Air, må du enten går ned i pinnestørrelse eller antall masker, ellers blir genseren for stor. Det blir litt prøving og feiling, men å strikke en prøvelapp og justere etter det er måten å gjøre dette på. Lykke til og god fornøyelse!

26.07.2023 - 06:53

country flag Lena Brønsholt wrote:

Der står 2 gange, at man skal “slå op under ærme”: 1. gang, når man skal dele op til ærmer og fortsætte til “bare” at strikke ryg og forstk. og så IGEN under stykket, under “ÆRMER” Hvis, man gør det 1. gang, bliver blusen jo større!!?? (Omkredsen) Så, HVORNÅR mener I/hvad skal gøres??

24.01.2023 - 15:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Lena. Du legger opp masker til erme 2 steder når du strikker bolen, så når du skal strikke ermene legger du også opp masker, "over" de maskene du la opp på bolen. Du får da et hull under ermene der du har lagt opp nye masker. Dette hullet sys sammen senere. Ta en titt på videoen: Bluse strikket oppefra og ned og se på tidspunktene: 07:46, 08:50 (legger opp masker under ermene) og tidspunkt 11:18 (legges opp masker under ermet på ermet). Kanskje du bedre vil forstå hvordan det strikkes. mvh DROPS Design

30.01.2023 - 10:28

country flag Catherine Choquel wrote:

Bonjour pour le modèle 186-30 on fait une augmentation avant et après A1 au tour suivant ses 2 mailles augmentées on les tricote comment?Le A1 est décalé .pourquoi faire un jeté pour augmenter et pas une augmentation droite ou gauche?merci pour votre réponse

25.10.2022 - 21:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Choquel, vous pouvez augmenter avec une autre technique que le jeté si vous le préférez, ce n'est pas un problème du tout; juste une question de choix de technique; mais les augmentations du raglan doivent se faire automatiquement avant et après chaque A.1, autrement dit, vous tricotez jusqu'à la 1ère maille endroit de A.1, vous augmentez pour le raglan, tricotez les 6 mailles de A.1 et vous augmentez pour le raglan; A.1 doit ainsi continuer en ligne droite, c'est la ligne du raglan. Bon tricot!

26.10.2022 - 07:59

country flag Lena Brønsholt wrote:

🇩🇰 Hej, hvis jeg ønsker, at strikkedenne ( Carly Pullover) i str. xl. i Jeres “Wish” - Hvilke p.-str. skal jeg så bruge? Og, hvor meget garn skal jeg så bruge? Jeg KAN IKKE REGNE 👀; Ej, heller Jeres, måske så fiiiine regne-dén-ud-stykker🤷‍♀️: dét siger mig INTET😪🤦‍♀️\r\nMvh. Lena B.

21.09.2022 - 18:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lena, Denne bluse er strikker i DROP Air som tilhører garngruppe C, hvis du strikker den i Wish (gruppe E) vil den blive meget kompakt. Vil du strikke lignende model i Wish prøv en af disse: Bluse - raglan - oppefra - 9-11masker

22.09.2022 - 14:59

country flag Aliisa wrote:

Hi! I would love to do this pattern with Drops Wish + Kid silk but is it going to be very different in size then?

17.07.2022 - 19:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Aliisa, If you use Drops Wish + Kid Silk, the garment will be quite a lot thicker and you will need fewer stitches and rows. You need to work a swatch and adjust your stitch number and row number accordingly. Happy crafting!

18.07.2022 - 06:57

country flag Anouchka wrote:

Bonjour, Pourriez-vous fournir les explications de vos modèles avec des aiguilles droites ? Je ne comprends rien avec les aiguilles en rond. C'est décourageant ! Merci :)

31.03.2022 - 20:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Anouchka, cette leçon explique comment on peut adapter un modèle pour des aiguilles droites; il peut être parfois plus simple de tricoter en rond, comme dans les explications, cette leçon et cette vidéo montrent par exemple comment tricoter un pull de haut en bas. Bon tricot!

01.04.2022 - 07:52

country flag Iris wrote:

Hallo! Na om hulp te hebben gevraagd van een vriendin weet ik inmiddels al hoe ik verder moet en zie ik dat ik het patroon helemaal verkeerd begrepen heb. Ik kan mijn eerdere vraag alleen niet verwijderen, dus doe ik het even zo!

16.03.2022 - 13:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Iris,

Oh, mooi dat je verder kon en bedankt voor de terugkoppeling! Veel breiplezier. Je eerdere vraag had ik zojuist beantwoord, misschien dat iemand anders er nog wat aan heeft...

18.03.2022 - 08:53