DROPS / 186 / 30

Carly Pullover by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Air.

  • Carly Pullover / DROPS 186-30 - Knitted jumper with raglan, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.
The piece is worked in DROPS Air.
  • Carly Pullover / DROPS 186-30 - Knitted jumper with raglan, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.
The piece is worked in DROPS Air.
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-103
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 01, off white

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 5.5 MM – or the size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 MM – or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of A.1 (= 8 stitches increased per round). Increase by making 1 yarn over, on the next round work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the round (e.g. 168 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 24) = 7. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after every 7th stitch. On the next round, work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, knit 2 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches) knit the next 2 stitches together.
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The piece is worked in the round with circular needle from mid back, top down. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

JUMPER:
Cast on 80-84-88-96-96-104 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Air. Knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 2 cm. The beginning of the round = mid back.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work the next round as follows: Knit 15-16-17-18-18-20 stitches - AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2-1-2-2-2-3 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches, knit 30-32-34-36-36-40 stitches – AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 4-2-4-4-4-6 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches, knit 15-16-17-18-18-20 stitches – AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 2-1-2-2-2-3 stitches evenly over these stitches = 88-88-96-104-104-116 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

The next round is worked as follows: Knit 14-14-16-17-17-20 stitches (=half back piece), A.1 (= 6 stitches), knit 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches (= sleeve), A.1, knit 28-28-32-34-34-40 stitches (= front piece), A.1, knit 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches (= sleeve), A.1, knit 14-14-16-17-17-20 stitches (= half back piece). Continue this pattern at the same time as you increase 1 stitch on each side of A.1 to RAGLAN – see description above. Increase every 2nd round a total of 20-23-23-26-28-30 times. After all the increases there are 248-272-280-312-328-356 stitches on the needle. Continue with pattern and stocking stitch (without increasing) until the piece measures 23-26-27-29-31-33 cm from the cast-on edge mid front.

Work the next round as follows: Work 39-42-43-48-52-57 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 46-52-54-60-60-64 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-10-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve), knit 78-84-86-96-104-114 stitches (= front piece), place the next 46-52-54-60-60-64 stitches on 1 thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-10-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= under the sleeve), and work the remaining 39-42-43-48-52-57 stitches (= half back piece).

BODY:
= 168-180-192-208-228-248 stitches. Insert a marker. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. Continue in the round with stocking stitch until the piece measures 25-24-25-24-24-24 cm. Knit 1 round where you increase 24-28-28-32-36-36 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP = 192-208-220-240-264-284 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - to avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with needle size 5.5 mm. The piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
The piece is worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. Place the 46-52-54-60-60-64 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on circular needle/double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and in addition cast on 6-6-10-8-10-10 new stitches mid under sleeve = 52-58-64-68-70-74 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 4-3-2-2-1½-1½ cm a total of 9-11-14-15-15-16 times = 34-36-36-38-40-42 stitches. When the piece measures 36-34-33-31-30-29 cm knit 1 round where you increase 6-4-8-6-8-6 stitches evenly on round = 40-40-44-44-48-48 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2). Continue with rib for 5 cm, then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 42-40-39-37-36-35 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 186-30) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (109)

country flag Paulina 12.03.2021 - 18:48:

Jeg har begynt å øke på annen hver omgang. så en omgang med økning og det skal strikkes A1 dvs rette og vrange masker. Dersom neste omgang skal være uten økning, skal jeg strikke de vrange maskene fra tidligere omgang vrang. eller rett?

country flag Cecilie 11.03.2021 - 23:50:

Når man deler til ærme og krop, går A1 så ind som en del af ærmet eller deles mønsteret lige over mellem ærme og krop? Jeg vil gerne have r r (udtagning) r r (udtagning) r r i stedet for (udtagning) r v r r v r (udtagning) , men det går jo kun, hvis A1 deles lige mellem ærme og forstykke?

user icon DROPS Design 12.03.2021 kl. 08:52:

Hej Cecilie, men når du deler stykket op til ryg & forstykke så fortsætter du i glatstrik, så det bliver ikke noget mønster når du har delt arbejdet. God fornøjelse!

country flag Ane 21.02.2021 - 08:56:

Hei, lurer på om man etter vrangborden skal strikke totalt 23 runder eller 46 runder (rundene med og uten økning)

user icon DROPS Design 23.02.2021 kl. 14:10:

Hej Ane, du strikker og tager ud på hver 2. omgang 23 gange = 46 runder, men hold øje med cm-målet :)

country flag Inga 16.02.2021 - 19:00:

Hei, jeg lurer på om man etter man har begynt å øke fortsatt skal strikke feks 14 masker før A1 når man teller med de maskene man økte.

user icon DROPS Design 17.02.2021 kl. 07:37:

Hei Inga, De økte maskene er på hver side av A.1, så da blir det flere og flere masker før man strikker A.1, etter hver økning. God fornøyelse!

country flag Michelle 15.02.2021 - 13:55:

Where the pattern states “increase every second round x amount of time” does that mean we are alternating knit rows and increase rows for x amount of rows?

user icon DROPS Design 15.02.2021 kl. 15:21:

Dear Michelle, correct, you work *1 round with increase, 1 round without increase*, and then repeat these 2 rounds the number of times stated for your size. Happy knitting!

country flag Britta 12.02.2021 - 19:01:

Hallo, es ist mir leider noch nicht klar, wie breit der Ärmel am Ansatz der Passe ist. Ich meine nicht die Länge, dass die 36 + 4 cm ist, verstehe ich. Danke für Ihre Antwort.

user icon DROPS Design 15.02.2021 kl. 06:59:

Liebe Britta, der Umfang von der Ärmel können Sie von der Maschenprobe kalkulieren, dh in S haben Sie 46 + 6 Maschen = 52 Maschen, mit 16 M = 10 cm sind diese 52 M am Anfang von der Ärmel 32.5 cm. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Britta 12.02.2021 - 15:50:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, in Größe M werden für den Ärmel 52 M stillgelegt und später 6 Maschen dazu angeschlagen. Diese 58 M entsprechen aber nur 36 cm, nicht der im Diagramm angezeigten Ärmelbreite von 24+4=28 cm, mal 2 = Gesamtbreite = 56 cm. Oder lese ich das Diagramm falsch? Danke für Ihre Antwort!

user icon DROPS Design 12.02.2021 kl. 16:38:

Liebe Britta, die 24+4 cm (Größe M) sind für die Höhe/Länge von der Passe + Schulter, nicht von der Ärmel - die gesamte Länge von der Ärmel wird 34 +6 cm ab der Verteilung. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Tone 15.01.2021 - 20:50:

Hva er oppleggskant for å måle lengden fra vrangbord eller er etter de 2 cm vrangbord.

user icon DROPS Design 18.01.2021 kl. 14:58:

Hei Tone. Oppleggskanten er der du starter med å legge opp masker, altså den første omgangen/raden (før vrangborden). mvh DROPS design

country flag Lisbeth 21.12.2020 - 08:30:

Jeg vil gerne høre, om det er korrekt, at ærmelængden er kortest i største størrelse? 35 cm, men 42 ved mindste størrelse ?

user icon DROPS Design 21.12.2020 kl. 08:54:

Hei Lisbeth Det stemmer. Det er lengre skuldervidde (skulder til skulder) i de største størrelsene og da blir ermene kortere. Man har ikke lengre armer selv om man bruker større størrelser. mvh DROPS design

country flag Angelika Perpeth 18.11.2020 - 10:36:

Danke für die Anleitung, muß sagen das ich schon immer viel gestrickt habe.es war sehr hilfreich für mich.Weiter so die Anregungen sehr gut.Bleiben Sie gesund.

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