DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.00$. Read more.

Season Greetings

Knitted Christmas sweater with round yoke and multi-colored Nordic pattern, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL The piece is worked in DROPS Karisma.

DROPS 183-5
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-821
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color 18, red
250-250-300-300-350-350 g color 01, off white

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – or the size needed to get 20 stitches and 26 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 for rib - or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 148 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 16) = 9.3.
In this example increase after approx. every 9th stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
When decreasing knit approx. every 8th and 9th stitch together.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back of the piece do not pull. You can use a larger needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
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SWEATER:
The sweater is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. You can work an elevation in the back of the neck for a better fit, so that the yoke is a little higher at the back. You can leave out the elevation if you wish, the neck will then be the same both front and back – see description for elevation further down in the pattern. After the yoke work the body in the round with circular needle. The body is divided at the split, then worked back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 148-148-152-156-160-164 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and with red. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid back). Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 6 cm / 2 3/8''. Change to short circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and knit 1 round where you increase 16-20-20-22-24-26 stitches evenly on round - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 164-168-172-178-184-190 stitches.
Now work an elevation in the back of the neck or go straight to working the yoke if you do not want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Knit 13-13-14-14-15-15 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten strand and purl 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 39-39-42-42-45-45 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 52-52-56-56-60-60 stitches back. Continue by working over 13-13-14-14-15-15 more stitches each time you turn, until you have worked over a total of 104-104-112-112-120-120 stitches, turn and knit to mid back.

YOKE:
= 164-168-172-178-184-190 stitches.
Continue by working pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 and increase evenly on each round marked with an arrow in the diagram as described below - read PATTERN, REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
ARROW-1: Increase 28-28-32-34-40-44 stitches = 192-196-204-212-224-234 stitches.
ARROW-2: Increase 24-28-32-32-40-42 stitches = 216-224-236-244-264-276 stitches.
ARROW-3: Increase 20-24-28-34-36-40 stitches = 236-248-264-278-300-316 stitches.
ARROW-4: Increase 20-24-24-26-36-36 stitches = 256-272-288-304-336-352 stitches.
ARROW-5: Increase 28-28-24-20-24-20 stitches = 284-300-312-324-360-372 stitches.
ARROW-6: Increase 22-24-18-24-18-18 stitches = 306-324-330-348-378-390 stitches.

SIZES S - M:
Go to ALL SIZES.

SIZES L - XL:
ARROW-7: Increase 12-18 stitches = 342-366 stitches.

SIZE XXL:
ARROW-7: Increase 18 stitches = 396 stitches.
ARROW-8: Increase 12 stitches = 408 stitches.

SIZE XXXL:
ARROW-7: Increase 18 stitches = 408 stitches.
ARROW-8: Increase 18 stitches = 426 stitches.
ARROW-9: Increase 14 stitches = 440 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Work up to and including the last round for your size. The piece measures approx. 24-25-26-28-30-32 cm / 9½"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½'' from the cast-on edge (if you have not reached this measurement, continue without increases until you have reached the right measurement - but no further than the next to last round in A.1 - adjust so that the next round to be worked after you have reached the measurement is a round in only 1 color).
Work the next round in A.1 as follows: Work 47-48-50-56-63-68 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 60-66-72-72-78-84 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-6-12-12-12 new stitches (= the side), work 93-96-99-111-126-136 stitches (= front piece), place the next 60-66-72-72-78-84 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-6-12-12-12 new stitches (= the side) and work the last 46-48-49-55-63-68 stitches (= half back piece). Body and sleeves are now worked separately.

BODY:
= 198-204-210-246-276-296 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-12-12-12 new stitches cast on in each side (= 99-102-105-123-138-147 stitches on front and back pieces) - THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Work up to and including the last round in A.1 in all sizes. When A.1 has been completed in height, work 1 round with red where the number of stitches is adjusted to 196-206-216-246-272-292 stitches.
Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2 as follows: ** Work A.2a (= 5 stitches), * A.2b (= 18 stitches), A.2c (= 1 stitch) *, work from *-* a total of 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, work A.2b (= 18 stitches), work * A.2d (= 5 stitches), A.2e (= 5 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 1-2-2-4-1-2 times, work A.2d (= 5 stitches) a total of 1-0-1-0-1-1 time, work A.2f (= 18 stitches), work * A.2c (= 1 stitch), A.2f (= 18 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 1-1-1-1-2-2 times and work A.2g (= 4 stitches) **, repeat from **-** 1 more time. Continue until A.2 has been completed in height.
Work 1 round with red and adjust the number of stitches to 198-204-210-246-276-294 stitches by increasing/decreasing evenly on round.
Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.3 (= 33-34-35-41-46-49 repeats of 6 stitches). On the round marked with an arrow, adjust the number of
stitches to 196-204-212-248-276-296. Continue until A.3 has been completed in
height (= 49-51-53-62-69-74 repeats of 4 stitches).
Work stockinette stitch with red from here. When the piece measures 30-31-32-33-33-33 cm / 11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12½"-13"-13"-13'' from the marker thread, divide the piece in the sides for the split and the front and back pieces are finished separately back and forth on the circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
= 99-102-105-123-138-147 stitches. Continue working stockinette stitch with 4 stitches in GARTER STITCH - see description above, in each side. When the piece measures 40-41-42-43-43-43 cm / 15 3/4"-16"-16½"-17"-17"-17'', change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work 1 row where you increase 23-24-25-31-32-35 stitches evenly on row = 122-126-130-154-170-182 stitches. Then work as follows from the right side: Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and work 4 stitches garter stitch. Work like this for 2 cm / 3/4''. Change back to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The piece measures approx. 42-43-44-45-45-45 cm / 16½"-17"-17 1/4"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 3/4''.

FRONT PIECE:
= 99-102-105-123-138-147 stitches. Work in the same way as for the back piece.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked in the round.
Place stitches from the thread in the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7, in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-12-12-12 new stitches cast on under the sleeve (continue with diagram A.1 as before) = 66-72-78-84-90-96 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the mid under sleeve (= in the middle of the 6-6-6-12-12-12 stitches which were knitted up under the sleeve) - the next round begins from here. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
When the piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 3-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm / 1 1/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½'' a total of 12-14-16-18-20-22 times = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches. Continue in the round according to A.1 over all stitches until the diagram has been completed in height.
Insert 1 marker mid top of sleeve = mid stitch. NOTE: Now you are working diagram A.4, but because of decreases mid under sleeve, you need to adjust so do as follows: Count the number of stitches on each side of the mid stitch on top of sleeve and see how many stitches there is room for of the first repeat of A.4a on the round and how many stitches there is room for of the last repeat of A.4c on the round.
In other words you work pattern as follows: Work the number of stitches there is room for of A.4a, work A.4a (= 19 stitches), A.4b (= 9 stitches, see star in the diagram = mid stitch), A.4c (= 19 stitches) and work the number of stitches there is room for of A.4c.
When A.4 has been completed, work pattern in the round according to diagram A.3 - adjust so that first stitch in diagram is at the mid of top of sleeve. When A.3 has been completed in height, continue with stockinette stitch and red. When the piece measures 38-38-38-37-35-34 cm / 15"-15"-15"-14½"-13 3/4"-13½'' from the marker thread mid under sleeve, change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and knit 1 round where you increase 6-4-6-4-6-4 stitches evenly on round = 48-48-52-52-56-56 stitches. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm / 1½''. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 and bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 42-42-42-41-39-38 cm / 16½"-16½"-16½"-16"-15 1/4"-15''. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 06.09.2018
Correction in diagram A.3

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off white
symbols = red
symbols = increase round
symbols = last round before working 1 round for division of front and back pieces + sleeves
symbols = mid stitch on sleeve
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Petra wrote:

Hallo, das Muster A4 für den Ärmel hat drei rote Reihen bis das Geweih des Rentiers beginnt. Das Muster A2 für den Rumpf hat keine roten Reihen bis das Geweih des Rentiers beginnt. Das bedeutet, dass der Abstand zwischen dem Ende von A1 und dem Beginn des Geweihs des Rentiers unterschiedlich ist. Ist das so gewollt? Viele Grüße

19.01.2024 - 09:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, stricken Sie genauso viele Runden mit rot vor die Rentiere, so sind beide Muster gleich. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.01.2024 - 15:49

country flag Petra wrote:

Hallo, ist es richtig, dass ich beim Rumpf und an den Ärmeln unterschiedlich viele rote Reihen zwischen der letzten weißen Reihe von A1 und dem Beginn des Rentiers habe? Am Rumpf sind es 3 rote Reihen und am Ärmel 5 rote Reihen.

18.01.2024 - 21:39

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, nach der Verteilung muss das diagram A.1 weiter gestrickt werden, Das Muster ist das gleiche beim Rumpf und Ärmel. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.01.2024 - 09:20

country flag Katerina wrote:

Hello! I don't understand how to decrease sts of the sleeves so as not to break the pattern. Or will the sleeves' pattern be broken anyway?

06.09.2023 - 16:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Katerina, when you decrease mid under sleeve, the pattern will be broken because of the decrease - work as many stitches as possible in pattern, but just make sure to line up diagrams (so that you will work less stitches in pattern at the beg / end of the rounds). Happy knitting!

07.09.2023 - 09:09

country flag Katerina wrote:

Hello! I made the elevation in back of neck (size XXL). Now the back and front have a different leight (the leight of back = 30 cm, and leight of front = 27 cm). My next step - to separate the sleeves from the torso at a 30 cm from the cast-on edge, according to instructions . But I'm not sure how exacltly to measure the length. Should the piece be measured along the back or along the front cast-on edge (should the leight of front = 30 cm)? Thank you!

03.09.2023 - 13:36

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Katerina, you should measure from the cast on edge in the mid front. Happy knitting!

03.09.2023 - 23:43

country flag Keterina wrote:

Hello! Is this pattern suitable for knitting a sweater for man?

28.07.2023 - 17:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Katerina, it’s not very difficult to convert women's size to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve. Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few. Happy knitting!

29.07.2023 - 09:36

country flag Ema wrote:

Jo napot, probalom megerteni hogyan lehet szaporitani a kerek raglan pulover koteseben a minta kozben de sajnos elege hianyosan van le irva itt. Kerhetnek esetleg egy ertheto, reszletes leirast, azaz mikor - hany soronkent kell szaporitani, hany szemnekent kell szaporitani es hogyan kell szaporitani a norvegmintaban ugy hogy esztetikus legyen, mert ez igy erthetelen. Valaszukat elore is koszonom!

12.02.2023 - 09:58

country flag Alison Mccourt wrote:

Hi I've knitted upto the start of the reindeer pattern ive been knitting from mid back in rounds do I change to side to knit in rounds ? Ty

21.11.2022 - 00:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alison, the markers on the sides are only for taking measurements for the body. You continue working from the mid back. Happy knitting!

21.11.2022 - 01:14

country flag Veronika wrote:

Hallo, Ich finde diesen Pulli top, leider habe ich schon eine Frage, nach der ersten Zunahme nach den Pfeil ist die Maschenzahl 234,wenn ich sie nach dem Muster durch 4 teile geht es nicht auf, müsste es nicht 232 Maschen sein? Oder beende ich das Muster einfach mitten im Mustersatz🤔 Danke für die Hilfe

14.06.2022 - 23:03

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Veronika, danke für den Hinweis, unser Design Team wird das noch mal prüfen - aber sicher können Sie das schon mal so z.B. arrangieren: bei dem 1. Pfeil lieber 46 Maschen zunehmen und bei dem 2. Pfeil nur 40, so haben Sie wieder die 276 Maschen und das Muster kann in der Runde passen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.06.2022 - 09:12

country flag Jutta Illhardt wrote:

Hallo, die Anleitung ist gut verständlich und läst sich gut nacharbeiten, leider rollt sich der untere Rand des Rumpfteils, 2 Maschen rechts 2 M links, nach oben oder biegt sich um. Wie kann ich das verhindern?

30.01.2022 - 19:01

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Illhardt, Sie können den Pullover mit Stecknadeln auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, danach entfernen Sie die Stecknadeln, dann sollte sich der Rand nicht mehr rollen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

31.01.2022 - 10:02

country flag Marie Grönning wrote:

Hej, jag behöver hjälp med att välja ett alternativt garn eftersom ull brukar klia. Vilket garn i grupp B skulle ni rekommendera som inte kliar? På förhand tack för svar! Mvh Mia

02.01.2022 - 13:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Marie. Jag hade valt Merino Extra Fine eller Sky. Mvh DROPS Design

03.01.2022 - 10:06