DROPS / 183 / 5

Season Greetings by DROPS Design

Knitted Christmas jumper with round yoke and multi-coloured Nordic pattern, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL The piece is worked in DROPS Karisma.

DROPS Design: Pattern no u-821
Yarn group B
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour 18, red
250-250-300-300-350-350 g colour 01, off white

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 MM – or the size needed to get 20 stitches and 26 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3.5 MM for rib - or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (8)

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 148 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 16) = 9.3.
In this example increase after approx. every 9th stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
When decreasing knit approx. every 8th and 9th stitch together.

To avoid the knitting tension becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back of the piece do not pull. You can use a larger needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve): 
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

The jumper is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. You can work an elevation in the back of the neck for a better fit, so that the yoke is a little higher at the back. You can leave out the elevation if you wish, the neck will then be the same both front and back – see description for elevation further down in the pattern. After the yoke work the body in the round with circular needle. The body is divided at the split, then worked back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

Cast on 148-148-152-156-160-164 stitches with short circular needle size 3.5 mm and with red. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid back). Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 6 cm. Change to short circular needle size 4.5 mm and knit 1 round where you increase 16-20-20-22-24-26 stitches evenly on round - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 164-168-172-178-184-190 stitches.
Now work an elevation in the back of the neck or go straight to working the yoke if you do not want an elevation.

Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Knit 13-13-14-14-15-15 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten strand and purl 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 39-39-42-42-45-45 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 52-52-56-56-60-60 stitches back. Continue by working over 13-13-14-14-15-15 more stitches each time you turn, until you have worked over a total of 104-104-112-112-120-120 stitches, turn and knit to mid back.

= 164-168-172-178-184-190 stitches.
Continue by working pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 and increase evenly on each round marked with an arrow in the diagram as described below - read PATTERN, REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
ARROW-1: Increase 28-28-32-34-40-44 stitches = 192-196-204-212-224-234 stitches.
ARROW-2: Increase 24-28-32-32-40-42 stitches = 216-224-236-244-264-276 stitches.
ARROW-3: Increase 20-24-28-34-36-40 stitches = 236-248-264-278-300-316 stitches.
ARROW-4: Increase 20-24-24-26-36-36 stitches = 256-272-288-304-336-352 stitches.
ARROW-5: Increase 28-28-24-20-24-20 stitches = 284-300-312-324-360-372 stitches.
ARROW-6: Increase 22-24-18-24-18-18 stitches = 306-324-330-348-378-390 stitches.


ARROW-7: Increase 12-18 stitches = 342-366 stitches.

ARROW-7: Increase 18 stitches = 396 stitches.
ARROW-8: Increase 12 stitches = 408 stitches.

ARROW-7: Increase 18 stitches = 408 stitches.
ARROW-8: Increase 18 stitches = 426 stitches.
ARROW-9: Increase 14 stitches = 440 stitches.

Work up to and including the last round for your size. The piece measures approx. 24-25-26-28-30-32 cm from the cast-on edge (if you have not reached this measurement, continue without increases until you have reached the right measurement - but no further than the next to last round in A.1 - adjust so that the next round to be worked after you have reached the measurement is a round in only 1 colour).
Work the next round in A.1 as follows: Work 47-48-50-56-63-68 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 60-66-72-72-78-84 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-6-12-12-12 new stitches (= the side), work 93-96-99-111-126-136 stitches (= front piece), place the next 60-66-72-72-78-84 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-6-12-12-12 new stitches (= the side) and work the last 46-48-49-55-63-68 stitches (= half back piece). Body and sleeves are now worked separately.

= 198-204-210-246-276-296 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-12-12-12 new stitches cast on in each side (= 99-102-105-123-138-147 stitches on front and back pieces) - THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Work up to and including the last round in A.1 in all sizes. When A.1 has been completed in height, work 1 round with red where the number of stitches is adjusted to 196-206-216-246-272-292 stitches.
Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2 as follows: ** Work A.2a (= 5 stitches), * A.2b (= 18 stitches), A.2c (= 1 stitch) *, work from *-* a total of 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, work A.2b (= 18 stitches), work * A.2d (= 5 stitches), A.2e (= 5 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 1-2-2-4-1-2 times, work A.2d (= 5 stitches) a total of 1-0-1-0-1-1 time, work A.2f (= 18 stitches), work * A.2c (= 1 stitch), A.2f (= 18 stitches) *, work from *-* a total of 1-1-1-1-2-2 times and work A.2g (= 4 stitches) **, repeat from **-** 1 more time. Continue until A.2 has been completed in height.
Work 1 round with red and adjust the number of stitches to 198-204-210-246-276-294 stitches by increasing/decreasing evenly on round.
Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.3 (= 33-34-35-41-46-49 repeats of 6 stitches). On the round marked with an arrow, adjust the number of stitches to 196-204-212-248-276-296. Continue until A.3 has been completed in height (= 49-51-53-62-69-74 repeats of 4 stitches).
Work stocking stitch with red from here. When the piece measures 30-31-32-33-33-33 cm from the marker thread, divide the piece in the sides for the split and the front and back pieces are finished separately back and forth on the circular needle.

= 99-102-105-123-138-147 stitches. Continue working stocking stitch with 4 stitches in GARTER STITCH - see description above, in each side. When the piece measures 40-41-42-43-43-43 cm, change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work 1 row where you increase 23-24-25-31-32-35 stitches evenly on row = 122-126-130-154-170-182 stitches. Then work as follows from the right side: Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and work 4 stitches garter stitch. Work like this for 2 cm. Change back to circular needle size 4.5 mm and cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The piece measures approx. 42-43-44-45-45-45 cm.

= 99-102-105-123-138-147 stitches. Work in the same way as for the back piece.

The sleeve is worked in the round.
Place stitches from the thread in the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4.5 mm, in addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-12-12-12 new stitches cast on under the sleeve (continue with diagram A.1 as before) = 66-72-78-84-90-96 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the mid under sleeve (= in the middle of the 6-6-6-12-12-12 stitches which were knitted up under the sleeve) - the next round begins from here. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
When the piece measures 2 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 3-2½-2-2-1½-1½ cm a total of 12-14-16-18-20-22 times = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches. Continue in the round according to A.1 over all stitches until the diagram has been completed in height.
Insert 1 marker mid top of sleeve = mid stitch. NOTE: Now you are working diagram A.4, but because of decreases mid under sleeve, you need to adjust so do as follows: Count the number of stitches on each side of the mid stitch on top of sleeve and see how many stitches there is room for of the first repeat of A.4a on the round and how many stitches there is room for of the last repeat of A.4c on the round.
In other words you work pattern as follows: Work the number of stitches there is room for of A.4a, work A.4a (= 19 stitches), A.4b (= 9 stitches, see star in the diagram = mid stitch), A.4c (= 19 stitches) and work the number of stitches there is room for of A.4c.
When A.4 has been completed, work pattern in the round according to diagram A.3 - adjust so that first stitch in diagram is at the mid of top of sleeve. When A.3 has been completed in height, continue with stocking stitch and red. When the piece measures 38-38-38-37-35-34 cm from the marker thread mid under sleeve, change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and knit 1 round where you increase 6-4-6-4-6-4 stitches evenly on round = 48-48-52-52-56-56 stitches. Work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 42-42-42-41-39-38 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Correction in diagram A.3
Updated online: 06.09.2018


= off white
= red
= increase round
= last round before working 1 round for division of front and back pieces + sleeves
= mid stitch on sleeve

Comments (8)

Leave your comment!

Brigitte 23.11.2018 - 13:34:

Auf der deutschen Drops Facebook Seite habe ich ein Foto gepostet mit den Raporten in der Reihenfolge wie es in der Anleitung steht. Völlig falsch. Die Raporte 2 d und 2 e kommen so auf dem Bild gar nicht vor. Stricken lassen und korrigieren. Habe mir alles zusammgebastelt damit es so aussieht wie auf dem Bild.

DROPS Design 23.11.2018 kl. 15:33:

Liebe Brigitte, in allen Grössen haben Sie auf beiden Seiten A.2d und A.2e und 2. A.2d (vor A.2f) nur nicht in den 2. und 4. Grösse. Diese Diagramme kann man auf dem Bild hier nicht sehen, da sie auf die Seiten sind. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Brigitte 22.11.2018 - 17:30:

Hallo,habe diesen Pullover endlich beendet. Leider ist die Anleitung nach der Ärmeltrennung mit dem Raport Hirsch und Tannenbäume völlig falsch. Habe das Gefühl das ihr die Anleitungen nur ins deutsche übersetzten lässt aber nicht gleichzeitig von der gleichen Person Probestricken lässt. Denn dann würden ihr von den Fehlern wissen. Ihr habt wirklich schöne Anleitungen. Leider habe ich bisher nur Anleitungen von Euch mit Fehlern gehabt.

DROPS Design 23.11.2018 kl. 11:14:

Liebe Brigitte, können Sie uns bitte mehr darüber sagen, welche Grösse Sie gestrickt haben, und wo genau es falsch sein sollte, damit wir die Anleitung neu mal schauen - haben Sie auch gesehen, daß A.3 im September korrigiert wurde?

Sandra 25.10.2018 - 06:01:

Hallo, meine Maschenprobe glatt re gestrickt hat gepasst. Jetzt beim in Runden stricken und mit 2 Farben habe ich eine Maschenzahl von 21 und eine Reihenzahl von 23. Muss das so sein? Lieben Dank im voraus

DROPS Design 25.10.2018 kl. 08:48:

Liebe Sandra, die Maschenprobe muss dieselbe sein, versuchen Sie mit dickeren Nadelstärke, damit die Maschenprobe korrekt bleibt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sandra 22.10.2018 - 13:23:

Hallo, wenn ich bei Größe S Ärmel nach den Abnahmen noch 42 M habe, welche Masche ist dann meine Mittelmasche für A4? Die Mitte wäre ja genau zwischen je 21 M und somit keine Masche die ich in A. 4b stricken kann? Lieben Dank im voraus für die schnelle Hilfe

DROPS Design 22.10.2018 kl. 14:25:

Liebe Sandra, Sie können die 21. Masche als Mittelmasche nehmen, bei der 2. Ärmel spiegleverkehr kalkulieren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

LauraK 11.10.2018 - 09:16:

Hallo liebes Drops Team, ab wann sollte man denn zur langen Rundnadel 4,5 wechseln? Wozu braucht man die lange 3,5? Und wie ist das bei den Ärmeln zu verstehen? Um auf die 66 Maschen zu kommen muss man die kompletten 6 extra angeschlagenen Maschen mit aufnehmen, oder? Wie funktioniert das? Gibt es hierzu ein Video? Danke und LG

DROPS Design 11.10.2018 kl. 10:12:

Liebe Laura K, Sie fangen mit den 40 cm Rundnadel 4,5 für den Hals, dann werden Sie für die Rundpasse regelmäßig zunehmen - nach und nach bekommen Sie zuviele Masche für die 40 cm Rundnadel, dann wechseln Sie zu der längeren Nadeln. Die 80 cm Rundnadel 3,5 brauchen Sie für das Bündchen unten am Rücken- bzw Vorderteil. Für die Ärmel werden 60 M stillgelegt dann werden 6 neuen Maschen in den 6 am Rumpfteil angeschlagten Maschen aufgenommen = 66 M. Siehe hier (ca 6:35) wie man die Ärmel strickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Henriette Nielsen 16.03.2018 - 18:44:

Men når jeg tager nye masker ud så bliver mønsteret skævt. selve diagrammet ser således ud: 1 omgang: 5 hvide og 1 grå. \\\\r\\\\n2. Omgang: 1 grå, 3 hvide, 3 grå osv og slut omgangen med 2 grå. (På denne omgang skal jeg tage 1 maske ud i første maske og 1 maske i anden sidste maske.\\\\r\\\\n3. Omgang: 2 grå, 1 hvid, 5 grå osv og slut med 3 grå. \\\\r\\\\n4.-6. Omgang: hele omgangen grå. Hvordan skal jeg strikke de nye masker?

Le Floch 14.02.2018 - 21:18:

Bonjour, ce n'est pas forcément sue ce modèle que je me pose des questions mai je cherche des modèles tricot aux aiguilles non circulaires.Y en a t'il sur votre site, je viens de le découvrir et le trouve fabuleux Merci

DROPS Design 15.02.2018 kl. 09:50:

Bonjour Mme Le Floch, tout à fait, en fonction du modèle, on va tricoter en rond sur aiguille circulaire ou bien en allers et retours. Vous trouverez quelques informations utiles ici. Bon tricot!

SWer 05.12.2017 - 21:32:

Hallo, Ich stricke gerade diesen Pullover in Größe L und bin beim Muster A2 und frage mich ob das Muster nicht wie folgt lauten müsste: g,f,c,f,d,e,d,e,d,b,c,b,a und nicht wie folgt in der Anleitung geschrieben: a,b,c,b,d,e,d,e,d,f,c,f,g ?! Freue mich auf eine schnelle Antwort. Viele Grüße!

DROPS Design 06.12.2017 kl. 09:30:

Liebe Frau Swer, die Diagramme sind so richtig, Sie stricken von oben nach unten und von der Mitte am Rückenteil, so beginnt man mit a (Mitte am Ruckenteil) bis g (Mitte am Vorderteil) und noch einmal wiederholen von a bis g wie geschrieben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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