Delicia by DROPS Design

The set consists of: Knitted hat, neck warmer and mittens with lace pattern. The set is worked in DROPS Andes.

DROPS Design: Pattern no an-046
Yarn group E or C + C
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For the whole set there will be enough with approx. 300 g DROPS Andes in both sizes.
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HAT:
Size: One-size
Fits head size: approx. 54-58 cm / 21 1/4"-22 3/4''
Materials:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
100 g color 4276, misty rose

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group E)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM / US 11 – or the size needed to get 11 stitches and 15 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM / US 10.75 – for garter stitch edge.
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NECK WARMER:
Sizes: S/M - M/L
Measurements: Circumference approx. 58-65 cm / 22 3/4"-25½''. Height approx. 20-28 cm / 8"-11''
Materials:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
100-200 g color 4276, misty pink

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group E)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM / US 11 (60 cm / 24'') – or the size needed to get 11 stitches and 15 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM / US 10.75 (60 cm / 24'') – for garter stitch edge.
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MITTEN:
Sizes: S/M - M/L
Materials:
DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
200-200 g color 4276, misty rose

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group E)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM / US 10.75 (S/M) or SIZE 8 MM (M/L) - or the size needed to get 12 stitches and 16 rows stockinette stitch (S/M) or 11 stitches 15 rows stockinette stitch (M/L) on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM / US 10 (S/M) or SIZE 7 MM (M/L) - for garter stitch edge.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 7.85 $ /100g
DROPS Andes uni colour DROPS Andes uni colour 7.85 $ /100g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Andes mix DROPS Andes mix 8.25 $ /100g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.55$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
Hat: See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
Neck warmer: See diagram A.3.
Mitten: See diagram A.4.

INCREASE TIP (for thumb gusset on mitten):
Start before the stitch with marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 (= stitch with marker thread), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.
The next time you increase make 1 yarn over on each side of the stitch with the marker thread + 1 (so outside the previously increased stitches) so you get a gusset for the thumb.

DECREASE TIP:
Start 2 stitches before the marker, knit 2 together, marker, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
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HAT:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, bottom up.
Cast on 54 stitches with double pointed needles size 7 mm / US 10.75 and Andes. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Change to double pointed needles size 8 mm / US 11 and knit 2 rounds. Then work A.1 in the round (= 9 repeats of 6 stitches). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When A.1 has been worked a total of 3 times in height, the piece measures approx. 18 cm / 7''. Work A.2 in the round and decrease as shown in the diagram. When A.2 has been completed, there are 18 stitches on the needles. On the next round knit all stitches twisted together, two and two = 9 stitches.
Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The hat measures approx. 25 cm / 9 3/4'' top down.
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NECK WARMER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle.
Cast on 64-72 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 and Andes. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Change to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and knit 2 rounds. Then work A.3 in the round (= 8-9 repeats of 8 stitches). When A.3 has been worked 2-3 times in height, change to circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75. Work 2 ridges and loosely bind off with knit. The neck warmer measures approx. 20-28 cm / 8"-11'' in height.
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LEFT MITTEN:
Size S/M is worked in the round with double pointed needles sizes 6 and 7 mm.
Size M/L is worked in the round with double pointed needles sizes 7 and 8 mm.
Cast on 26 stitches with double pointed needles size 6-7 mm and Andes. Work GARTER STITCH – see description above. When the piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' change to double pointed needles size 7-8 mm. Knit 2 rounds. The next round is worked as follows: 15 stitches stockinette stitch, A.4 (= 9 stitches), 2 stitches stockinette stitch. Continue the pattern in this way. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When the piece measures 14 cm / 5½'' insert 1 marker thread in the 12th stitch on the round. On the next round increase for the thumb gusset by increasing 1 stitch on each side of the stitch with the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP (= 2 stitches increased). Increase in this way on each side of the increased stitches also on the next round = 5 stitches in the thumb gusset. Work 2-3 rounds without increases. On the next round place the 5 thumb-gusset stitches on a thread, in addition cast on 1 new stitch on the needle over the stitches on the thread = 26 stitches on the needles. Continue with stockinette stitch and A.4 (A.4 repeats as far as it will fit, then work stockinette stitch over all stitches). AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 24-26 cm / 9½"-10 1/4'' from the cast-on edge, insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round and 1 marker after 13 stitches (= in each side of the mitten). On the next round decrease 1 stitch on each side of both markers - read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way every round, 5 times in each side = 6 stitches left on the needles. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The whole mitten measures approx. 27-29 cm / 10½"-11½'' from the cast-on edge.

THUMB:
Place the 5 thumb-gusset stitches back on double pointed needles size 7-8 mm. In addition, knit up 5 stitches behind the thumb (i.e. knit up 1 stitch in the stitch which was cast on + 2 stitches on each side of this stitch) = 10 stitches. Work stockinette stitch in the round until the thumb measures 5-6 cm / 2''-2 3/8''. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round and 1 marker after 5 stitches. On the next round decrease 1 stitch on each side of both markers in the same way as at the top of the mitten (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease in this way on the next round as well = 2 stitches left on the needles. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.

RIGHT MITTEN:
Cast on as for the left mitten and work garter stitch until the piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8''. Change to double pointed needles size 7-8 mm. Knit 2 rounds. The next round is worked as follows: 2 stitches stockinette stitch, A.4 (= 9 stitches), 15 stitches stockinette stitch. Continue the pattern in this way. When the piece measures 14 cm = 5 1/2" insert 1 marker thread in the 15th stitch on the round. On the next round increase to thumb gusset by increasing 1 stitch on each side of the stitch with the marker thread – read INCREASE TIP! Increase in this way on each side of the increased stitches on the next round as well = 5 stitches in the thumb gusset. The rest of the mitten is worked in the same way as the left mitten.
Work the thumb in the same way as for the left mitten.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 18.11.2020
Correction: RIGHT MITTEN: .... When the piece measures 14 cm = 5 1/2" insert 1 marker thread in the 15th stitch on the round.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 182-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Siv Merete Torheim wrote:

Hei, Jeg skal strikke lue Drops 182-9, men forstår ikke diagrammet A1. Jeg har strikket 6 omganger med diagram, og da ser det ut som om jeg skal begynne på neste omgang før den siste 6. omgangen er ferdig? Hvordan/hvor skal jeg da begynne på nytt på diagram 1? (Jeg startet på diagram 1 med å ta 1 maske løs av, strikke 1 rett og løftet deretter den løse masken over. Har jeg startet på feil plass?

21.07.2022 - 11:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Siv, mønsteret som altid består af 6 masker, bliver bare forskudt. Du vil kunne se det når du har strikket de først 6 pinde i diagrammet :)

03.08.2022 kl. 15:30

country flag Francine Auclair wrote:

Dans les instructions du modèle Delicia vous mentionnez que dans le diagramme A1 on aura 9 motifs de 6 mailles. Je n’en vois que 8. Où est mon erreur?

30.10.2021 - 23:03

DROPS Design answered:

Bonsoir Mme Auclair, vous avez monte 54 mailles. Chaque diagramme A1 a 6 mailles > 54:6=9 motifs. Bon tricot!

01.11.2021 kl. 22:09

country flag Catherine wrote:

Si je comprends bien on peut réaliser ce modèle avec deux fils C tricotés ensemble (fil double)?

21.09.2021 - 20:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Catherine, c'est exact, retrouvez plus d'infos sur les alternatives ici. Rappelez-vous qu'en fonction de la laine choisie, la texture pourra être différente, tricotez un échantillon au préalable pour non seulement vérifier votre tension mais aussi la texture obtenue. Votre magasin saura vous conseiller si besoin, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

22.09.2021 kl. 07:20

country flag Gullvi Erlandsson wrote:

Hej! Diagram A1 varv 6 räta maskor stickar jag inte dom två sista i varvet? Utan börjar med rad 7 direkt? Är det riktigt? Med vänlig hälsning, Gullvi

15.12.2020 - 12:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gullvi. Ja det stämmer. Mvh DROPS Design

18.12.2020 kl. 08:08

country flag Lene Hasle wrote:

Er der ikke en fejl i højre vante? Jeg mener markeringen til tommelfingerkilen bør være i den 15. maske og ikke den 17. Ellers synes jeg den bliver skæv?

15.11.2020 - 17:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lene, du har helt ret, vi skal få rettet opskriften. God fornøjelse!

18.11.2020 kl. 14:40

country flag Gertrude Deslauriers wrote:

The hat is done in multiples of 6 sts, I would like to know if the pattern repeats correctly if I add 6 sts? I want to use 60 sts opposed to 54. Thank you for your time; Gertie

02.09.2020 - 23:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Gertie, that's right, pattern is worked over 6 sts, so that you can add 6 more sts for every extra repeat in width. Happy knitting!

03.09.2020 kl. 08:58

country flag Anita Pounu wrote:

Hej Jag förstår inte hur jag ska göra när schemat är förskjutet i sidled, i det här fallet med mössan?

10.01.2020 - 14:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anita, jo det er for at mønsteret skal være forskudt. Du sørger for at du har samme antal retmasker imellem hver gang du strikker diagram-symbolet. God fornøjelse!

31.01.2020 kl. 11:06

country flag Katerina Andritsopoulou wrote:

Good afternoon! How do I follow pattern A.3 (9th row extended to the right) if I am using straight needles and not circular ones. I have added a stich on each side to join together. Thank you.

18.11.2019 - 18:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Andritsopoulou, since this pattern is worked in the round, you have to start the 11th round when 2 sts from 10th round remain on left needle, then work the last 2 sts on round 10 together with the first stricht in first repeat, then work the last 2 sts together with first st next repeat, and so on. Happy knitting!

19.11.2019 kl. 08:47

country flag Karen A Hartvig Nielsen wrote:

Regarding charts like A!...I\\\\\\\'m still having problems with the \\\"how\\\" factor of how to read uneven (sticking out to left and right) charts. I was unable to find any information, especially as I don\\\'t even know what these types of charts are called. Would you consider a \\\"uneven charts for dummies\\\" addition to your tutorials? Tak

01.07.2018 - 07:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hartvig Nielsen, in diagrams such as A.1, A.2 (= 7th row for ex.) and A.3 (= row 9) start the 7th/9th row 2 sts before beg of row, ie work the last 2 sts on previous row together with the first st in first repeat, then work the last 2 sts in each repeat tog with the first st next repeat. In next to last row in A.2 work the last st from previous row/repeat tog with the first 2 sts first/next repeat. Happy knitting!

02.07.2018 kl. 10:19

country flag Cindy wrote:

Oh darn, It's a double pointed needle pattern! I, like many people, HATE DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES.

18.04.2018 - 15:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Cindy, you can then work with a circular needle and use the technique of magic loop. Happy knitting!

18.04.2018 kl. 15:45

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