Polar Days by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with cables and raglan. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Karisma.

DROPS Design: Pattern no u-820
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-750-800-900-1000 g color 01, off white

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn Group B)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – or the size needed to get 20 stitches and 26 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 for rib - or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6 (diagrams A.2 and A.6 are for sizes XL, XXL and XXXL). The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for under sleeves):
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in pattern A.1 as before (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round the yarn overs are knitted/purled twisted and then worked into pattern A.1.

RAGLAN:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread. Purl 2 stitches together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), purl 2 stitches together. Repeat the decreases at each of the remaining marker threads (= 8 stitches decreased on the round).

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the number of stitches to be decrease/increase over (e.g. 26 stitches) and divide the stitches with the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 6) = 4.3. In this example, knit approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch together.
If you are increasing (in this example) make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch. On the next round, work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.
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SWEATER:
The body is worked in the round with circular needle, bottom up. You will work cables on the front piece and seed stitch in the sides, on the back piece and sleeves. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles. NOTE: Sizes XL, XXL and XXXL have a small cable (= A.2/A.6) further towards each side than shown in the picture.

BODY:
Cast on 218-234-254-276-304-328 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and Karisma. Knit 1 round. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= the side). Now work rib in the different sizes as follows:
SIZES S, M AND L:
Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) over the first 24-28-32 stitches, knit 2, A.3a (= 10 stitches), A.4a (= 3 stitches), A.5a (= 26 stitches), A.4a, A.3a, work rib (knit 2, purl 2) over the remaining 140-152-168 stitches.
SIZES XL, XXL AND XXXL:
Work rib (knit 2 / purl 2) over the first 32-40-44 stitches, knit 2, work A.2a (= 5 stitches), A.3a (= 10 stitches), A.4a (= 3 stitches), A.5a (= 26 stitches), A.4a, A.3a, A.6a (= 5 stitches), work rib (knit 2 / purl 2) over the remaining 180-200-220 stitches.
Continue in the round in this way and repeat the first 3 rounds in the diagrams until the rib measures 5 cm / 2''. The next round is worked as follows: Knit the first 26-30-34-34-42-46 stitches and decrease, at the same time, 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches evenly over these stitches – read DECREASE TIP, work the last row in the diagrams over the next 52-52-52-62-62-62 stitches, knit the next 26-30-34-34-42-46 stitches and decrease, at the same time, 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit the remaining stitches on the round and decrease, at the same time, 26-26-30-32-32-36 stitches evenly over these stitches = 198-214-230-248-276-296 stitches.

Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Now work pattern in the different sizes as follows:
SIZES S, M AND L:
(the marker in the side sits here = start of the round), work A.1 (= 2 stitches) over the first 20-24-28 stitches, A.3b (= 14 stitches), A.4b (= 4 stitches), A.5b (= 34 stitches), A.4b, A.3b, A.1 over the next 20-24-28 stitches, insert a marker thread here (= the other side), work A.1 over the next 88-96-104 stitches.
SIZES XL, XXL AND XXXL:
(the marker in the side sits here = start of the round), work A.1 (= 2 stitches) over the first 26-34-38 stitches, A.2b (= 6 stitches), A.3b (= 14 stitches), A.4b (= 4 stitches), A.5b (= 34 stitches), A.4b, A.3b, A.6b (= 6 stitches), A.1 over the next 26-34-38 stitches, insert a marker thread here (= the other side), work A.1 over the next 114-126-138 stitches.
Continue the pattern in the round in this way. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!

When the piece measures 34-34-35-35-35-35 cm / 13½"-13½"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/4" work a round where you bind off 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches under each sleeve for the armholes (= 5-5-6-6-7-8 stitches on each side of the marker threads in each side = 178-194-206-224-248-264 stitches on the round. Cut the strand. Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves.

SLEEVES:
The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.
Cast on 56-60-60-64-64-68 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and Karisma. Work rib (knit 2 / purl 2) for 5 cm / 2''. Knit 1 round where you decrease 14-16-14-16-14-16 stitches evenly on round = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round. Work pattern A.1 in the round. When the sleeve measures 14-11-11-8-6-5 cm / 5½"-4½"-4½"-3"-2 1/4"-2'' increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread mid under sleeve (= 2 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 6th-5th-4th-4th-4th-4th round a total of 12-15-18-19-20-21 times = 66-74-82-86-90-94 stitches. When the sleeve measures 43-42-41-40-39-39 cm / 17"-16½"-16"-15 3/4"-15 1/4"-15 1/4'' (NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke) bind off the middle 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches under the sleeve (i.e. 5-5-6-6-7-8 stitches on each side of the marker thread) = 56-64-70-74-76-78 stitches.
Lay the piece to one side and work 1 more sleeve.

YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle as the body where you bind off stitches for the armholes = 290-322-346-372-400-420 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.
Start in the transition after the sleeve and before the body on the back piece and work pattern as before as follows: Work 2-2-2-1-2-6 stitches, insert a marker thread here (NOTE: this becomes the start of the round), work 74-82-88-100-108-110 stitches (= back piece), insert a marker thread here, work 64-72-78-82-88-94 stitches (= sleeve), insert a marker thread here, work 88-96-102-108-116-122 stitches (= front piece), insert a marker thread here, work 64-72-78-82-88-94 stitches (= sleeve). Continue the pattern as before and knit 1 stitch on each side of the 4 marker threads in the piece. On the next round, start the decreases to RAGLAN – see description above. Decrease in this way every 4th round a total of 3-2-0-0-0-0 times and every 2nd round 19-24-29-31-34-37 times = 114-114-114-124-128-124 stitches. After a while as you decrease to raglan and there are not enough stitches left to work the cables on the front piece, you knit over knit and purl over purl. When all the decreases are finished, the piece measures approx. 20-22-23-25-27-29 cm / 8"-8 3/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10½"-11½''. Knit as far as the first marker thread on the front piece, work to the next marker thread and decrease at the same time 14-14-14-8-8-4 stitches evenly over these stitches, knit the remaining stitches on the round = 100-100-100-116-120-120 stitches

NECKLINE:
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Purl 1 round. Knit 1 round where you increase 8-8-12-8-8-8 stitches evenly on round – Remember INCREASE TIP = 108-108-112-124-128-128 stitches. Purl 1 round and knit 1 round. Work rib (knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm / 1''. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Cut and fasten the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 13.05.2022
New diagram A.5.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = place 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 3, purl 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = knit 2 in same stitch (i.e. knit 1 in back loop and knit 1 in front loop)
symbols = purl 2 in same stitch (i.e purl 1 in back loop and purl 1 in front loop)
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 184-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Carol McMillan wrote:

Fpr size XXL you cast on 304 sts and on the last rnd of the ribbing you decrease sts to 276 sts. But I calculate 304 - (8 + 8 +32) = 256 sts Where is my mistake?

08.07.2022 - 17:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs McMillan, at the same time as you decrease evenly you work the last row in the diagrams where you will increase 1 stitch in each A.2a + A.6a + A.4a and 4 sts in each A.3a and 8 sts in A.5a = 304-(8+8+32)+(1+4+1+8+1+4+1)=276 sts. Happy knitting!

11.07.2022 kl. 09:03

country flag SANDRINE B wrote:

Le diagramme des explications ne donne pas exactement le pull de la photo ....l Le septième symbole donne une torsade opposée aux autres,sur le A5b alors que l'image montre des torsades toutes dans le même sens. La cliente canadienne qui vous a envoyé la photo de son pull fini m'a rassurée. C'est joli aussi comme ça.....je n'aurai pas à défaire les 10 derniers rangs.....ouf.... Merci de mettre à disposition vos modèles.

04.05.2022 - 23:55

country flag Françoise TEYCHENEY wrote:

Bonjour. Lorsque je demandais des précisions, c'est sur le point fantaisie en taille M. Il est indiquait "début du tour, A1sur 24m, A3b-14m-, A4b-4m, A5b 34m, A'4b 4m, A3b 14m, A1 sur 24m, le fil marqueur et A1 sur 96m. Soit 24+14+4+34+4+14+24+96 SOIT 214 et non 234 Merci pour votre réponse

24.03.2022 - 17:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Teycheney, en fait, quand les côtes mesurent 5 cm, vous devez tricoter un tour de diminutions et d'augmentations: 30 m end en diminuant 6 = 24; le dernier rang des diagrammes A.3a, A.4a, A.5a, A.4a, A.3a ou vous allez augmenter en même temps 4+1+8+1+4 m (cf dernier et avant-dernier symbole de la légende), et diminuer encore 6+26 mailles jusqu'à la fin du tour, vous aurez ainsi: 24 m end, A.3a(14 m), A.4a(4m), A.5a (34 m), A.4a(4m), A.3a(14 m), 24 m end, marqueur, 96 m end = soit: 24+14+4+34+4+14+24+96=214 mailles. Ainsi vous aurez bien le bon nombre de mailles. Bon tricot!

24.03.2022 kl. 17:43

country flag Françoise TEYCHENEY wrote:

Bonjour, je rencontre un problème sur la taille M. J'ai 234 mailles, mais lorsque je passe au point fantaisie, celui-ci se fait sur 214 mailles, il me reste donc 20 mailles. J'ai beau recompter, je me heurte toujours aux mêmes chiffres.Merci pour votre réponse

23.03.2022 - 17:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Teycheney, tricotez ainsi: 28 mailles en côtes 2 m end 2 m env (= 7 fois *2 m end, 2 m env*); puis 2 m end, puis les 10 m de A.3a, les 3 m de A.4a, les 26 m de A.5a, les 3 m de A.5a, les 10 m de A.3a et les 152 dernières m en côtes (2 m end, 2 m env), soit: 28+2+10+3+26+3+10+152=234 mailles. En espérant que ce décompte puisse vous aider. Bon tricot!

24.03.2022 kl. 09:40

country flag Iwona wrote:

Nie rozumiem jak mam przerobić narzuty po dodaniu oczek na rękaw i jak wygląda następny rzad po przerobieniu narzutów. Próbowałam już różne kombinacje i w następnych okrążeniach już nic mi się nie zgadza. Albo są obok siebie dwa oczka prawe albo dwa oczka lewe. Proszę o pomoc bo może coś robię nie tak.

12.02.2022 - 19:54

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Iwono, dodawanie oczek zaburza ścieg fantazyjny (A.1). Dlatego zawsze w pewnym punkcie będziesz miała 2 takie same oczka obok siebie (prawe lub lewe), albo pojedynczy ścieg ryżowy ponad 2 oczkami środkowymi (między którymi znajduje się marker). Obie opcje będą słabo widoczne, gdyż są po wewnętrznej stronie rękawa. Myślę, że opcja 2 będzie mniej widoczna. Ale wybór należy do Ciebie. Powodzenia!

14.02.2022 kl. 07:52

country flag Heli Miettinen wrote:

Kaarrokkeen tekeminen tuottaa ihmetystä. Merkkilanka kohdat ovat epäsymnetrisessä paikassa. Oikealla takaosan ja hihan taitekohtaan otetaan merkkilanka kahden silmukan päöhän vasemmalla selustalla 6 silmikan päähän. Vastaavasti epäsymmetria on etukappaleen puolella. Tarvitsisin vähän neuvoa. Kiitos

16.04.2021 - 20:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, kun kiinnität merkkilangat työhön ohjeen mukaisesti, ne ovat oikeissa kohdissa.

19.05.2021 kl. 17:43

country flag Ellis wrote:

Waarom zijn niet alle tekens hetzelfde? de ene keer is een pijl omhoog de steken op kabelnaald vóór het werk houden de andere keer er achter?! de tekens zijn zo niet logisch te begrijpen. het is zinloos een visueel teken te maken als dit niet telkens hetzelfde betekent. het voordeel van visualiseren is juist om een andere manier van onthouden te creëren, een blik op de kaart moet voldoende zijn om door te kunnen gaan

07.12.2020 - 10:58

country flag Ellis wrote:

Waarom zijn niet alle tekens hetzelfde? de ene keer is een pijl omhoog de steken op kabelnaald vóór het werk houden de andere keer er achter?! de tekens zijn zo niet logisch te begrijpen. het is zinloos een visueel teken te maken als dit niet telkens hetzelfde betekent. het voordeel van visualiseren is juist om een andere manier van onthouden te creëren, een blik op de kaart moet voldoende zijn om verder te kunnen gaan.

07.12.2020 - 10:57

country flag Ellis wrote:

Waarom zijn niet alle tekens hetzelfde? de ene keer is een pijl omhoog de steken op kabelnaald vóór het werk houden de andere keer er achter?! de tekens zijn zo niet logisch te begrijpen. het is zinloos een visueel teken te maken als dit niet telkens hetzelfde betekent. het voordeel van visualiseren is juist om een andere manier van onthouden te creëren, een blik op de kaart moet voldoende zijn om verder te kunnen gaan.

07.12.2020 - 10:53

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ellis,

Bedankt voor je feedback. Je opmerking zal ik doorgeven aan het ontwerpteam, zodat dit hopelijk in de toekomst consequenter toegepast kan worden.

11.12.2020 kl. 14:09

country flag Sjöfn Geirdal wrote:

Fæ ekki skilið að það séu bara 74 lykkjur á framstykki að næstu ermi tel um 90 lykkjur og 78 á bakstyķki

18.10.2019 - 14:03

DROPS Design answered:

Það eru fleiri lykkjur á framstykki en á bakstykki þar sem kaðlarnir draga stykkið saman að framan. Lykkjufjöldinn á að passa þegar búið er að fella af fyrir handveg.

19.10.2019 kl. 11:01

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