Wendy Darling by DROPS Design

Knitted dress and hair band with lace pattern in DROPS Cotton Merino. Size children 2 - 10 years

DROPS design: Pattern no cm-003-bn
Yarn group B
Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 years
All measurements in chart in cm.

250-300-350-400-450 g color no 16, denim blue

Size: 2/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 years
Head circumference: 48/50 - 50/52 - 52/53 - 54/55 cm / 19 1/4"-20"-20 3/4"-21½"
50 g for all sizes in color no 16, denim blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS BUTTON: ARCHED (white), NO 521: 2 pieces for all sizes for dress.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.30 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

Dec as follows before A.3: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after A.3: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso

Dec for buttonholes on left back piece. Dec by working second and third st tog from mid back, then make a YO.
Dec for buttonholes when band measures 2 and 4 cm / 3/4" and 1½''.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

Worked in the round on circular needle from bottom up.
Cast on 192-192-224-224-256 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Cotton Merino. Work A.1. Then work A.2 (= 6-6-7-7-8 repetitions in width). When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows - beg 1 st before first st on round: * A.3 (= 3 sts), 29 sts in stockinette st *, repeat from *-* 6-6-7-7-8 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 15 cm / 6'', dec 1 st before every A.3 – READ DECREASE TIP (= 6-6-7-7-8 sts dec). Repeat dec alternately before and after A.3 every every 1-1½-1½-2-2 cm / 3/8"-½"-½"-3/4"-3/4" a total of 12-10-12-10-12 times = 120-132-140-154-160 sts. Continue in stockinette st and A.3 until piece measures 27-29-32-35-37 cm / 10½"-11½"-12½"-13 3/4"-14½". Now work A.1 over all sts, on first row in A.1 adjust no of sts to 124-132-140-148-160. Insert 2 markers in the piece; one at the beg of round and 1 after 62-66-70-74-80 sts = sides.
Continue in stockinette st over all sts. When piece measures 34-37-41-45-49 cm / 13½"-14½"-16"-17 3/4"-19 1/4", bind off 6 sts in each side for armholes (i.e. 3 sts on both sides of every marker) and finish each piece separately.

= 56-60-64-68-74 sts. Continue bind off for armholes in each side at beg of every row as follows: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2-2-1-1-2 times = 48-52-58-62-66 sts. When piece measures 38-42-47-52-57 cm / 15"-16½"-18½"-20½"-22½", slip the first 22-24-27-29-31 sts (from RS) on 1 stitch holder for right shoulder (work them first) and finish each shoulder separately.

= 26-28-31-33-35 sts. Continue in stockinette st but work the first 4 sts on needle (towards middle) in garter st (= button band). Dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. When piece measures 44-48-53-58-63 cm / 17 1/4"-19"-21"-22 3/4"-24 3/4", slip the first 4 sts on a stitch holder (work them first), then bind off the next 10-11-12-13-13 sts for neck. Then bind off 1 st on next row towards the neck = 11-12-14-15-17 sts remain on the shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 46-50-55-60-65 cm / 18"-19 3/4"-21½"-23½"-25½".

Slip the 22-24-27-29-31 sts from stitch holder back on needle and cast on 4 new sts at the end of first row from RS (= button band) = 26-28-31-33-35 sts. Work as left shoulder but reversed, do not dec for buttonholes.

= 56-60-64-68-74 sts. Bind off for armhole in the sides as on back piece = 48-52-58-62-66 sts. When piece measures 41-45-50-55-60 cm / 16"-17 3/4"-19 3/4"-21½"-23½", slip the middle 18-20-22-24-24 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off on every row towards neck: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 11-12-14-15-17 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 46-50-55-60-65 cm / 18"-19 3/4"-21½"-23½"-25½".

Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 40-42-44-46-48 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Cotton Merino. Work A.1 over all sts, then work in stockinette st. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'', inc 1 st on each side of marker. Inc every 6-3½-3-3-3 cm / 2½"-1 1/4"-1"-1"-1" 2-4-6-7-8 more times = 46-52-58-62-66 sts. When piece measures 20-23-26-29-32 cm / 8"-9"-10 1/4"-11½"-12½", bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve for sleeve cap. Then work sleeve back and forth while AT THE SAME TIME dec for sleeve cap in each side as follows: Dec 2 sts in each side until piece measures 24-27-30-33-36 cm / 9½"-10½"-11 3/4"-13"-14 1/4". Bind off 3 sts in each side, then bind off the remaining sts. Piece measures approx. 25-28-31-34-37 cm / 9 3/4"-11"-12 1/4"-13½"-14½".

Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew the buttons on to right band. Then place the 4 sts from right back piece behind the 4 sts on the left back piece and fasten with small sts.

NECK EDGE: Pick up approx. 72 to 88 sts (includes sts on stitch holders) around the neck on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 2 ridges. Bind off.

Cast on 15 sts on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Cotton Merino. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST - see explanation above, then work A.4 over all sts. Continue with A.4 until piece measures 41-42-43-44 cm / 16"-16½"-17"-17 1/4" (lightly pull piece when measuring), work a ridge, bind off. Sew cast-on and bind-off edge tog with grafting/kitchener stitches.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 26-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (87)

Andrea Winkler 04.11.2020 - 00:35:

Hallo, ich stricke das Kleid in Runden. Muss ich bei der Strickschrift A 1 die 1. Reihe links stricken, die 2. rechts, die 3. links , die 4. rechts, die 5. 2 M. re zusammenstr., die 8. wieder rechts, usw. Danke

DROPS Design 04.11.2020 kl. 09:33:

Liebe Frau Winkler, ja genau so wird das Diagram in Runden gestrickt - hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Christine Carr 30.09.2020 - 15:21:

How many sts each rep after round 31 on A2? I have 29 on last rep to end of round marker which I think is right. I am doing size 5/6. To knit the last 10 sts of 31 I moved the markers, making each repeat 32sts. Thank you for any help.

DROPS Design 30.09.2020 kl. 16:03:

Dar Mrs Carr, from row 31 A.2 will still worked over the same number of sts, but on every other round, start first repeat on round with last st on previous round = the yarn over is now the last st of the round, and work the last st in each A.2 tog with the first 2 sts next repeat (fist YO is now last st previous A.2). Happy knitting!

ANNE MUHLEMANN-GENCE 14.09.2020 - 16:43:

Bonjour, J'ai 224 mailles et le diagramme dit répéter 7 fois A2 en largeur, ça ne tombe pas juste dès le 1er rang: faut-il laisser 5 mailles entre chaque dessin? J'ai essayé et ça na tombe toujours pas juste Aidez-moi, SVP.....j'aime tant cette robe!! MERCI ANNE

DROPS Design 15.09.2020 kl. 09:29:

Bonjour Mme Muhlemann-Gence, dans la 3ème et la 4ème taille, tricotez les 224 mailles ainsi: tricotez 1 fois A.1 en hauteur, puis répétez 7 fois en largeur (= tout le tour) les 32 mailles de A.2 (soit 7x32=224 m) - vous trouverez plus d'infos sur les diagrammes ici. Bon tricot!

Hannah 11.08.2020 - 16:48:

Sorry if my question was unclear i am up to the top part of the dress i placed the markers on both sides and worked up to 37 cm now i need to decrease 6 stitches on each side of the marker i know how to do that after the marker but how do i do it before?

DROPS Design 12.08.2020 kl. 07:46:

Dear Hanah, at 37 cm in 2nd size you have to bind off/cast off the 6 sts on each side, this means you won't decrease these stitches by knitting them together, just cast them off to divide piece and continue each part separately. Happy knitting!

Hannah 11.08.2020 - 16:09:

When decreasing for the sleeve on the main dress how do i decrease before the marker?

DROPS Design 11.08.2020 kl. 16:29:

Dear Hannah, when decrease at each A.3 you will decrease as explained under DECREASE TIP, is before A.3 with K2 together - and after A.3 with slip 1 as if to K, K1, psso. Happy knitting!

Sara 20.07.2020 - 21:17:

I am a bit confused about the A2 pattern do I use the purl stitch on the first line since it’s the wrong side and then line 2 do all K? I tried it and it doesn’t seem right please advise. Thanks

DROPS Design 21.07.2020 kl. 07:26:

Hi Sara, A.2 is worked in the round on the dress, so round 2 is knitted. Happy crafting!

Eileen Doucette 16.02.2020 - 15:21:

I'm am so confused about A.3 .I get moving marker and using last stitch of previous row. I think a video would help with this pattern where to start decreasing to show what row to form the A line. I'm frustrated and have knitted for years! please help me with this section. I do read the questions and answers that others have asked in English language. After the very first row of A.3 I end up with 191 stitches instead of 192 is this correct? Please help me. thanks Eileen

DROPS Design 17.02.2020 kl. 09:21:

Dear Eileen, A.3 is worked over 3 stitches: 1 yarn over, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, (you have decreased 2 stitches) 1 yarn over = there are always 3 stitches - make sure you didn't forget a yarn over on first round. Then start to decrease, you are repeating A.3 a total of 6 times in the round and you should decrease 6 stitches on each decrease round. On first decrease round, work *A.3, dec 1 st - see DECREASE TIP, 27 sts in stocking st*, repeat from *-*; on next decrease round work: *A.3, 26 sts in stocking st, dec 1 st*, repeat from *-* around. Happy knitting!

Eileen Doucette 12.02.2020 - 20:57:

Could you please help me figure out A.2 pattern. For the 2nd row of pattern, it shows to knit 13, YO sl 1 st, k2 tog. Psso st then Yo again. For size 2 then repeat pattern. 6 times? or all around the dress? Thanks, Eileen

DROPS Design 13.02.2020 kl. 10:34:

Hi Eileen, The 2nd round of A.2 is knit all stitches. Round 3, from right to left is : K2, 1 YO, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over, K7, K2 together, 1 YO, K7, 1 YO, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over, K7, K2 together, 1 YO, K1 and repeat this pattern to end of round. Happy knitting!

Martina Nikodemová 04.01.2020 - 20:59:

¨Dobrý den, potřebovala bych poradit, s pletením těchto krásných šatiček. Pochopila jsem, že se plete v kruhových řadách bez švu, ale nevím jak mám plést tu rubovou stranu :-(........zkoušela jsem najít na netu nějaký návod, ale nic jsem nenašla..... mohla byste mi poradit nebo někam nasměrovat děkuji Nikodemová

DROPS Design 05.01.2020 kl. 12:56:

Milá Martino, při pletení v kruhových řadách pleteme vlastně stále jen lícovou stranu. Rubové (a lícové) řady budete plést jen v místě, kde je pletenina rozdělená na jednotlivé díly - tj. v horní části hrudníku, po uzavření ok pro průramky. Hodně zdaru! Hana

Brigitte 02.01.2020 - 16:22:

Très joli modèle tricoté deux fois en 6 ans : la première fois en coton mérinos bleu jeans avec un fil glitter argent, la seconde fois en lilas et agrémenté de sequins de couleur. Ma petite-fille aime beaucoup ces 2 robes.

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