Dear Daisy by DROPS Design

Knitted cardigan in seed st in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Size children 2 - 10 years

Tags: jackets,
  • Dear Daisy / DROPS Children 26-2 - Knitted cardigan in seed st in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Size children 2 - 10 years
DROPS design: Pattern no z-037-bn
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 years
All measurements in chart in cm.

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-100-100-150-200 g color no 100, off white
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
50-50-50-50-100 g color no 01, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in seed st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm) with 1 strand of each yarn held together.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 4 mm / US 6 – for rib
DROPS BUTTON: ARCHED (white), NO 521: 3-3-3-3-4 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

SEED ST:
Row 1: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat 2nd row.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. Dec by working third and fourth st tog from mid front, then make a YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 2 years: 5, 11 and 17 cm / 2", 4½", 6 3/4"
SIZE 3/4 years: 5, 11 and 18 cm / 2", 4½", 7"
SIZE 5/6 years: 5, 12 and 20 cm / 2", 4 3/4", 8"
SIZE 7/8 years: 5, 13 and 21 cm / 2", 5", 8 1/4"
SIZE 9/10 years: 5, 11, 17 and 23 cm / 2", 4½", 6 3/4", 9".
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JACKET:
Work back and forth on circular needle from bottom up.
Cast on 128-132-140-152-160 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work as follows – from RS: 5 sts in garter st (= band), K 2, P 2/K 2 until 5 sts remain, work 5 sts in garter st (= band). Continue with rib like this until piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', P a row from WS (continue bands in garter st) while dec 22-22-22-26-26 sts evenly = 106-110-118-126-134 sts. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and continue in SEED ST - see explanation above with 5 sts in garter st in each side until finished measurements. When piece measures 5 cm / 2'', beg to dec for BUTTON HOLES – see explanation above.
When piece measures 10-11-12-13-14 cm / 4"-4½"-4 3/4"-5"-5½", work as follows: Work 26-27-29-31-33 sts (= right front piece), bind off the next 6 sts for armhole, work 42-44-48-52-56 sts (= back piece), bind off the next 6 sts for armhole, work 26-27-29-31-33 sts (= left front piece). Finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 42-44-48-52-56 sts. Continue bind off for armholes in each side at beg of every row as follows: 2 sts 1 time = 38-40-44-48-52 sts. When piece measures 20-22-24-26-28 cm / 8"-8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4"-11", bind off the middle 18-20-22-24-24 sts for neck and finish each side separately. Then bind off 1 st on next row towards the neck = 9-9-10-11-13 sts remain on the shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 22-24-26-28-30 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4".

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 26-27-29-31-33 sts. Bind off for armhole in the side as on back piece = 24-25-27-29-31 sts. When piece measures 18-19-21-22-24 cm / 7"-7½"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9½", slip 11-12-13-14-14 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Then bind off on every row towards neck: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 9-9-10-11-13 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 22-24-26-28-30 cm / 8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4".

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but without buttonholes.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 42-42-46-46-50 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with a strand of each yarn (= 2 strands). Work rib K 2/P 2 and 1 edge st in garter st in each side until piece measures 4 cm / 1½''. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and K 1 row from RS while dec 8-6-8-6-8 sts evenly = 34-36-38-40-42 sts. Now work in seed st. When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'', inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side of piece. Inc every 5½-7-6-5-4½ cm / 2 1/4"-2 3/4"-2½"-2"-1 3/4" 2-2-3-4-5 more times = 40-42-46-50-54 sts. Work the inc sts in seed st. When piece measures 20-23-26-29-32 cm / 8"-9"-10 1/4"-11½"-12½", bind off 3 sts in each side of piece. Then bind off for sleeve cap in each side as follows: bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 24-27-30-33-36 cm / 9½"-10½"-11 3/4"-13"-14 1/4". Bind off 3 sts in each side, then bind off the remaining sts. Piece measures approx. 25-28-31-34-37 cm / 9 3/4"-11"-12 1/4"-13½"-14½".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up sts with circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 around the neck from RS with a strand of each yarn, approx. 58 to 72 sts (includes sts on stitch holders). Work 2 ridges. Loosely bind off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 26-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Kathleen M Wallace 02.05.2021 - 21:01:

Your directions are sorely lacking direction! So much is left out. I've been knitting for 40 years and have never seen anything like this.

country flag Kathleen 02.05.2021 - 20:59:

The instructions stink! On the second size, both the front and back end at 9 1/2 inches. Then it says add 2 rows for the neck. On the schematic it says the second size will end with 13 inches vertically. I'm at 9 1/2 - adding two rows is not going to get me to 13 inches. What do I do?

user icon DROPS Design 03.05.2021 kl. 09:27:

Dear Kathleen, the total height from shoulder to bottom edge is 9 1/2 inch for the 2nd size. Neck edge is not included in that total length. Hope this helps!

country flag Karin 09.03.2021 - 08:47:

Jeg har 240 gr Flora.\r\nVil gerne strikke denne bolero i str 3/4 år.\r\nMed 2 tråde på pind nr 4 ,....har jeg garn nok til det.?

country flag Nathalie Barriol 10.12.2020 - 13:11:

Bonjour, pour le col, je ne trouve pas l'explication très claire ..."tricoter 2 côtes mousse" ???? combien de rangs / cm ? Des côtes mousse 2:2 ? Merci pour votre réponse.

user icon DROPS Design 10.12.2020 kl. 14:01:

Bonjour Mme Barriol, 1 côte mousse = 2 rangs endroit (cf POINT MOUSSE au tout début des explications, ainsi, pour avoir 2 côtes mousse, il vous faudra tricoter 4 rangs endroit. Bon tricot!

country flag Anne Kristi Haugland 08.01.2020 - 19:59:

Kan denne jakken strikkes med dobbel Kid-Silk? I tilfelle - hvilken pinnenr. ?

user icon DROPS Design 15.01.2020 kl. 15:44:

Hej Anne, ja den kan strikkes i 2 tråde DROPS Kid-Silk, prøv med pind 5 men sørg for at du får 17 masker på 10 cm i perlestrik :)

country flag Rous 09.10.2019 - 16:29:

Je ne comprend pas les explications de ce modèle ne sont pas très claire (( y allé 2 ans les 11 mailles elle son sur le milieu du devant et quand vous dites il reste 9 mailles c'est côté emanchure qu'on où devant . Mercier de votre réponse

user icon DROPS Design 09.10.2019 kl. 16:42:

Bonjour Mme Rous, pour le devant droit, on tricote les 11 premières mailles sur l'endroit et on les met en attente pour l'encolure, on continue ensuite en rabattant tous les rangs à partir de l'encolure (= sur l'endroit pour le devant droit) 1 x 2 m et 2 x 1 m, il va rester 9 m pour l'épaule. Bon tricot!

country flag Baldo 10.11.2016 - 14:35:

En fait je n'avais pas bien compris, j'ai mis mes mailles sur un arrêt de mailles et j'ai continué à tricoter le reste jusqu'à 26cm... Est-il possible que la partie qui parle de l'arrêt de mailles arrivent trop tôt dans l'explication? (style : à la fin du paragraphe?) Merci

user icon DROPS Design 10.11.2016 kl. 15:06:

Bonjour Mme Baldo, vous mettez les mailles de l'encolure devant sur un arrêt de mailles puis diminuez pour l'encolure et continuez sur les mailles restantes de l'épaule quand l'ouvrage mesure 26 cm (3ème taille), dans cette taille, il faut mettre les mailles en attente à 13 cm, rabattre 1 x 2 m et 2 x 1 m pour l'encolure et rabattre les 10 m restantes à 26 cm. Bon tricot!

country flag Baldo 07.11.2016 - 12:17:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas le passage avec mettre en attente sur arrêt de mailles : "glisser 11-12-13-14-14 m côté milieu devant sur un arrêt de mailles pour l'encolure. Rabattre ensuite tous les rangs côté encolure: 1 fois 2 m et 2 fois 1 m = il reste 9-9-10-11-13 m pour l'épaule. Rabattre quand l'ouvrage mesure 22-24-26-28-30 cm. " Mais que fait-on après de ces mailles en attente? Merci de pour votre réponse.

user icon DROPS Design 07.11.2016 kl. 13:37:

Bonjour Mme Baldo, on reprendra les mailles en attente quand on va tricoter le col: on reprend d'abord les mailles du devant droit en attente (= sur l'endroit), puis on relève les mailles autour de l'encolure et on termine par les mailles du devant gauche en attente. Bon tricot!

country flag Inge Trier 24.10.2016 - 23:29:

Hvad er strikkefastheden?

user icon DROPS Design 25.10.2016 kl. 10:32:

Hej Inge. DROPS RUNDP (60 cm) nr 4,5 – eller det p.nr du skal bruge for at få 17 m x 22 p perlestrik på 10 x 10 cm med 1 tråd i hver kvalitet.

country flag Ida 13.05.2016 - 10:45:

Jeg er ikke den habile strikker endnu, men vil meget gerne lave denne cardigan, mit spørgsmål går derfor på om man behøver at strikke den med dobbelttråd som opskriften angiver, eller om jeg kan nøjes med enkelt tråd? på forhånd tak. Vh Ida

user icon DROPS Design 13.05.2016 kl. 12:20:

Hej Ida. Jeg tror den vil blive for lös hvis du vaelger f.eks. 1 traad Alpaca. Du kan eventuelt erstatte med 1 traad fra gruppe C (Nepal eller Big Merino f.eks.) Se garngrupperne her, og husk at strikke en pröve og kontroller din strikkefasthed.

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