DROPS Baby / 25 / 31

Simply Sweet Singlet by DROPS Design

Knitted baby singlet in rib, worked top down in DROPS BabyMerino. Size premature - 4 years.

Tags: body, raglan, top down, tops,
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-054-by
Yarn group A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Size: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: (32) 36-40-44-48 (52-56) cm / (12½”) 14”-16”-17”-19” (20½”-22”)
Full length: (20) 24-28-30-32 (35-38) cm / (8”) 9½”-11”-11¾”-12½” (13¾”-15”)

Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
(100) 100-100-100-100 (150-150) g color no 02, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES OR CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm / 16” or 24”) SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 34 sts x 32 rows in rib = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’ (24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’).

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 2 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

RAGLAN:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st on each side of the 4 raglan lines by making 1 YO on each side of the 2 sts K in each raglan line (seen from RS). Work YOs into rib, i.e. P the first 2 sts from WS, K the next 2 sts from WS etc. – NOTE: Do not work YOs twisted (i.e. there should be holes on each side of the 2 K sts in raglan line).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO (dec for buttonholes from WS).
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE (premature): 1 and 3 cm / ½’’ and 1”.
SIZE 0/1 month + 1/3 months: 1 and 4 cm / ½” and 1½’’.
SIZE 6/9 month + 12/18 months: 1 and 4½ cm / ½” and 1¾”.
SIZE (2 years + 3/4 years): 1 and 5 cm / ½” and 2’’.
----------------------------------------------------------

SINGLET:
The piece is worked top down. Work back and forth on circular needle to after neck vent, then work piece in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle until finished measurements.

YOKE:
Cast on (54) 60-60-64-74 (74-74) sts (includes 6 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with off white Baby Merino. K 4 rows (1st row = RS). Then work an elevation in the back of neck as follows (1st row = RS):
K until (6) 8-8-8-10 (10-10) sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and K until (6) 8-8-8-10 (10-10) sts remain in the other side.
Turn piece, tighten yarn and K until (12) 16-16-16-20 (20-20) sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and K until (12) 16-16-16-20 (20-20) sts remain in the other side.
Turn piece, tighten yarn and K until (18) 24-24-24-30 (30-30) sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and K until (18) 24-24-24-30 (30-30) sts remain in the other side.
Turn piece, tighten yarn and K the rest of the row.
Work next row as follows from WS: K 6 band sts, P the next (42) 48-48-52-62 (62-62) sts AT THE SAME TIME inc (32) 26-42-38-44 (60-60) sts evenly over these sts and finish with K 6 band sts (remember BUTTONHOLES on band – see explanation above) = (86) 86-102-102-118 (134-134) sts on needle.
WORK NEXT ROW AS FOLLOWS FROM RS:

SIZE (premature) + 0/1 month:
6 band sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, K 2, P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2, K 2 and 6 band sts in GARTER ST.

SIZE 1/3 months + 6/9 months + 12/18 months:
6 band sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, K 2, P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2, K 2, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 3-3-5 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 7 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 3-3-5 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), P 2, K 2, P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2, K 2 and 6 band sts in GARTER ST.

SIZE (2 years + 3/4 years):
6 band sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, ** K 2, P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2 **, repeat from **-** 2 times in total, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 9 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), ** P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2, K 2 **, repeat from **-** 2 times in total and finish with 6 band sts in GARTER ST.

ALL SIZES:
Continue pattern like this back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 sts inc). Repeat inc every other row/round (i.e. every row from RS) (7) 7-7-11-11 (11-11) more times (= (8) 8-8-12-12 (12-12) inc in total on each side of every raglan line).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures (4) 5-5-6-6 (7-7) cm / (1½”) 2”-2”-2½”-2½” (2¾”-2¾”), band ends and piece is worked in the round on needle as follows (make sure that next row is worked from RS): Place piece tog with sts from right band at the top (so that bands are on top of each other and buttonholes are at the edge).
Work 1 round in the round AT THE SAME TIME K tog the 6 sts from right and left band 2 by 2, work the rest of round, cut the yarn and beg next round mid back.
Continue rib and pattern in the round AT THE SAME TIME continue inc for raglan as before but work the 6 sts mid front as follows: P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts) and P 2.
After last inc for raglan there are (144) 144-160-192-208 (224-224) sts on needle. Work (0) 2-2-2-2 (2-2) more rounds as before, piece measures approx. (7) 8-8-10-11 (11-11) cm / (2¾”) 3”-3”-4”-4½” (4½”-4½”) from shoulder.
On next round LOOSELY bind off the (32) 32-32-40-48 (48-48) sts between each marker over sleeves in rib = (40) 40-48-56-56 (64-64) sts remain on front and back piece.

BODY:
= (80) 80-96-112-112 (128-128) sts. On next round cast on (8) 16-12-12-16 (16-20) LOOSE sts under each sleeve = (96) 112-120-136-144 (160-168) sts on body – NOW MEASURES PIECE FROM HERE.
Continue rib in the round as before (= K 2/P 2) with A.1 at the front as before.
When piece measures (10) 13-17-17-18 (21-24) cm / (4”) 5”-6¾”-6¾”-7” (8¼”-9½”) from armholes, work rib in the round over all sts (i.e. K 2 instead of A.1 on front piece).
When piece measures (13) 16-20-20-21 (24-27) cm / (5”) 6¼”-8”-8”-8¼” (9½”-10½”) from armholes (entire garment measures approx. (20) 24-28-30-32 (35-38) cm / (8”) 9½”-11”-11¾”-12½” (13¾”-15”) from shoulder), LOOSELY bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 25-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (48)

Judy Maguire 02.10.2020 - 20:37:

I am making the size 3 months. After doing the first round of increases I have 86 stitches as I am meant to have.Then I start first round and no matter how I try, I need 102 stitches to complete the round. That ties in with size 6 months but not 1/3 months. What’s happening here. Please help. This is such a lovely pattern. I so want to knit it. I’m using drops Nord.

DROPS Design 05.10.2020 kl. 08:50:

Dear Mrs Maguire, the size 1/3 months is the 3rd size in the pattern, this means you cast on 60 sts (as in 2nd size) and increase 42 sts evenly to get a total of 102 sts. In 2nd size you will increase evenly 26 sts only to get 86 sts. Happy knitting!

Maimouna 24.09.2020 - 22:19:

Danke für die Antwort! Ich habe es nun hinbekommen. Allerdings habe ich das fertige Stück nun gemessen und es ist nicht die 18 cm, wie es eigentlich für die Größe Neugeborene sein sollte. Das Probestück hatte ich gemacht. Kann es sein, dass aufgrund des Rippenmusters enger ist? Das fertige Hemd lässt sich jedenfalls mit Leichtigkeit auf 18 cm und mehr ausdehnen.

DROPS Design 25.09.2020 kl. 09:05:

Liebe Maimouna, ja genau, wegen das Rippenmuster sieht die Arbeit etwas enger aus, aber es ist elastisch genug um anzupassen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Maïmouna 18.09.2020 - 16:02:

Ja, hm, vielen Dank für die Antwort, sie hilft mir aber nicht weiter. Da es in der Anleitung nur lapidar heißt "nach 5 Zentimetern" (Größe Neugeborene) weiß man nicht, wie viele Maschen s da befinden sollen. Vielleicht strickt man ja ein zwei Reihen zu viel, das Messen ist bei dem m ja auch noch ganz genau möglich. Deshalb bitte ich erneut um die Massenanzahl. Danke im Voraus

DROPS Design 18.09.2020 kl. 16:11:

Liebe Maïmouna, die Umschläge von A.1 sind in der angegebene Maschenanzahl nicht inbegriffen, Je nach Ihre Maschenprobe in der Höhe, kann die Maschenanzahl unterschiedlich sein - nach5 cm (von der Anschlagskante) haben Sie noch nicht so viele Raglanzunahmen gestrickt, und sowieso nicht alle - Maschenanzahl ist hier nicht so wichtig, nur Höhe = 5 cm ist wichtig -und 8 Maschen für den Raglan bei jeder HInreihe zunehmen - solange Sie 144 M nach allen Raglanzunahmen fertig sind. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Maïmouna 17.09.2020 - 17:16:

Vielen Dank für dieses wunderschöne Muster! Ich habe den ersten Raglanteil hinbekommen, sieht auch gut und richtig aus. ABER: Ich habe zu viele Maschen auf der Nadel, auch nachdem ich beide Blenden zusammengestrickt habe. Könnten Sie mir vielleicht sagen, wieviele Maschen ich auf der Nadel haben sollte, BEVOR ich die Blenden zusammenstricke? Dann kann ich noch korrigieren. Beste Grüße

DROPS Design 18.09.2020 kl. 08:10:

Liebe Maïmouna, es ist etwas schwierig zu antworten, beachten Sie welche Reihe Sie im A.1 stricken (die mit den Umschlägen, dann haben Sie mehr Maschen auf der Nadel), und prüfen Sie mal die Maschenanzahl von den Raglanzunhammen in den gewünschten Größen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Britt 12.07.2020 - 17:06:

Der er fejl i opskriften, jeg strikker en str 6/9 mdr der er 102 masker der skal fordeles til raglan og det går ikke op. I skriver i et svar at der i beskrivelsen står en fordeling der siger: 6-14-(4*3=12)- 4-(4*7=28)-4–(4*3=12)-4-12-6 og det giver godt nok 102 men skal mønsteret ikke være ens på begge sider? Altså starte med 6-12-4 som det også slutter?

DROPS Design 13.07.2020 kl. 14:23:

Hei Britt. Det er ikke feil i oppskriften. Om du teller maskene fra stolpen til 1.raglanlinjen så er det: 6 stolpemasker – 2 rett - 2 vrang – A.1(2 masker) – 2 vrang – 2 rett – 2 vrang – 2 rett, 1.raglanlinjen settes mellom de to siste rett maskene (= 19 masker med stolpen til 1. raglanslinjen). Om du teller fra den andre stolpen er det: 6 stoplemasker – 2 rett – 2 vrang – A.1(2 masker) – 2 vrang – 2 rett – 2 vrang - 2 rett – 4. raglanlinjen settes mellom de to siste rett maskene (= 19 masker fra 4. raglanslinjen og t.o.m de 6 stolpemaskene). God Fornøyelse!

Beata 20.08.2019 - 05:59:

Thank you so much.

Beata 16.08.2019 - 10:38:

Witam,  Bardzo  prosze o pomoc. Zaczelam robic  karczku I jedtem w momencie kiedy na drugie mam 134 oczka. / 6o obszycia, 62 o lewe, 60 o dodanych I 6 o obszycia/ Teraz chce robic dalej Jestem na prawej stronie robotki i....zrobilam 6 o obszycia, 2 o prawde, 2 o lewe......I mam teraz robic A1 (=2o) Pytanie.....od ktorego momentu zaczac robic A1. ? Czyli  jak przerobic pierwsze A1. Dziekuje  bardzo  za pomoc  Beata

DROPS Design 19.08.2019 kl. 16:48:

Witaj Beato, przerabiasz teraz zgodnie z częścią opisu: ROZMIAR (2 lata + 3/4 lata): 6 o. obszycia przodu ściegiem francuskim – patrz powyżej, **2 o.p., 2 o.l., A.1 (= 2 o.)… Czyli po przerobieniu 10 oczek od brzegu (wg opisu) wykonujesz pierwszy rząd schematu A.1 ponad 2 oczkami następująco: 1 oczko prawe, 1 narzut, 1 oczko prawe. Jak wykonywać schemat A.1 znajdziesz TUTAJ. Powodzenia

Beata 13.08.2019 - 09:02:

Prosze o pomoc. Zaczynam robotke od karczku. Nabralam 72 oczka I nic dalej nie rozumiem.Nie rozumiem co znaczy przerabiac az zostanie 10 o...przerabiac az zostanie 20 . ...przerabiac az zostanie 30 o. ? Mam gubic te oczka? W ktorym miejscu ?

DROPS Design 13.08.2019 kl. 20:06:

Witaj Beato! Tutaj wykonujemy podwyższenie na dekolt tyłu z wykorzystaniem techniki tzw. rzędów skróconych. Ponad tylną częścią bluzeczki będzie wykonanych więcej rzędów, aby tył był lekko wyższy niż przód. Jak wykonać rzędy skrócone obrazuje film TUTAJ. Powodzenia!

Cynthia 13.06.2019 - 13:33:

Thanks you for the details. I will try this on a test swatch and hopefully will be able to restart and finish. Really appreciate the response.

Cynthia 12.06.2019 - 22:37:

I'm sorry but this still isn't clear. Reading about the raglan increase does not help. Is there any way you can be more specific about these increase by stepping me through stitch by stitch? Both the increases on the rs and picking them up on the ws? Without clearer instructions I'll be forced to abandon the project.

DROPS Design 13.06.2019 kl. 09:06:

Dear Cynthia, the increases for the raglan should be worked in rib as the other sts to keep rib pattern, when you increase before the K2 you have first P2, marker, K2 - you will increase from RS: P2, YO, marker, K2 - this YO will be worked P on next row (WS) so that it becomes from RS: P2, K1, YO, marker, K2 - repeat for next inc so that you have from RS: P2, K2 (= 2 new sts), marker, K2. Work next increase so that it becomes from RS: P2, K2, P1, marker, K2, and on next inc you should have from RS: P2, K2, P2, marker, K2 - repeat the increase like this (before and after the K2 as explained). Happy knitting!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 25-31

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.