Simply Sweet by DROPS Design
Knitted baby body in rib, worked top down in DROPS BabyMerino. Size premature – 4 years.
DROPS Baby 25-30
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-053-by
Yarn group A
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Sizes: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: (32) 36-40-44-48 (52-56) cm/ (12½”) 14¼”-15¾”-17¼”-19” (20½”-22”)
Full length from shoulder to buttons between legs:
(25) 31-35-38-41 (45-50) cm/ (9¾”) 12¼”-13¾”-15”-16” (17¾”-19¾”)
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
(100) 100-150-150-150 (150-200) g colour no 02, off white
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES OR CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm/16” and 24”) SIZE 3.5 mm/ US 4 - or size needed to get 34 sts x 32 rows in rib = 10 x 10 cm/ 4” x 4”.
(24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm/ 4” x 4”).
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 5 pieces for all sizes
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-053-by
Yarn group A
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Sizes: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: (32) 36-40-44-48 (52-56) cm/ (12½”) 14¼”-15¾”-17¼”-19” (20½”-22”)
Full length from shoulder to buttons between legs:
(25) 31-35-38-41 (45-50) cm/ (9¾”) 12¼”-13¾”-15”-16” (17¾”-19¾”)
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
(100) 100-150-150-150 (150-200) g colour no 02, off white
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES OR CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm/16” and 24”) SIZE 3.5 mm/ US 4 - or size needed to get 34 sts x 32 rows in rib = 10 x 10 cm/ 4” x 4”.
(24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm/ 4” x 4”).
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 5 pieces for all sizes
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.
RAGLAN:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st on each side of the 4 raglan lines by making 1 YO on each side of the 2 sts K in each raglan line (seen from RS). Work YOs into rib, i.e. P the first 2 sts from WS, K the next 2 sts from WS etc. – NOTE: Do not work YOs twisted (i.e. there should be holes on each side of the 2 K sts in raglan line).
BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO (dec for buttonholes from WS).
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE (premature): 1 and 3 cm / ½” and 1”.
SIZE 0/1 month + 1/3 months: 1 and 4 cm/ ½” and 1½”.
SIZE 6/9 months + 12/18 months: 1 and 4½ cm / ½” and 1¾”.
SIZE (2 years + 3/4 years): 1 and 5 cm / ½” and 2”.
DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to leg opening):
Dec inside 3 edge sts in garter st.
FROM RS:
Dec after 3 sts in garter st as follows: P 2 twisted tog.
Dec as follows before 3 sts in garter st (beg when 5 sts remain on row): P 2 tog.
FROM WS:
Dec after 3 sts in garter st as follows: K 2 twisted tog.
Dec as follows before 3 sts in garter st (beg when 5 sts remain on row): K 2 tog.
DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to sleeves):
Work until 3 sts remain before marker, work 2 sts tog (in rib), work 2 sts (marker is between these 2 sts) and then work 2 sts twisted tog (in rib).
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ONESIE:
The piece is worked top down. Work back and forth on circular needle to after neck vent, then work piece in the round on double pointed needles/circular needles before dividing for leg openings. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.
YOKE:
Cast on (54) 60-60-64-74 (74-74) sts (includes 6 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3.5 mm/US 4 with off white Baby Merino. K 4 rows (1st row = RS).
Then work an elevation in the back of neck as follows (1st row = RS):
K until (6) 8-8-8-10 (10-10) sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and work until (6) 8-8-8-10 (10-10) sts remain in the other side.
Turn piece, tighten yarn and work until (12) 16-16-16-20 (20-20) sts remain, turn piece, tighten yarn and work back until (12) 16-16-16-20 (20-20) sts remain.
Turn piece, tighten yarn and work until (18) 24-24-24-30 (30-30) sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and work until (18) 24-24-24-30 (30-30) sts remain in the other side.
Turn piece, tighten yarn and work the rest of the row.
Work next row as follows from WS: K 6 band sts, P the next (42) 48-48-52-62 (62-62) sts AT THE SAME TIME inc (32) 26-42-38-44 (60-60) sts evenly over these sts and finish with K 6 band sts (remember BUTTONHOLES on band – see explanation above) = (86) 86-102-102-118 (134-134) sts on needle.
WORK NEXT ROW AS FOLLOWS FROM RS:
SIZE (premature) + 0/1 month:
6 band sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, K 2, P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2, K 2 and 6 band sts in GARTER ST.
SIZE 1/3 months + 6/9 months + 12/18 months:
6 band sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, K 2, P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2, K 2, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 3-3-5 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 7 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 3-3-5 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), P 2, K 2, P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2, K 2 and 6 band sts in GARTER ST.
SIZE (2 years + 3/4 years):
6 band sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, ** K 2, P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2 **, repeat from **-** 2 times in total, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 9 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), ** P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2, K 2 **, repeat from **-** 2 times in total and finish with 6 band sts in GARTER ST.
ALL SIZES:
Continue pattern like this back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 sts inc). Repeat inc every other row/round (i.e. every row from RS) (7) 7-7-11-11 (11-11) more times (= (8) 8-8-12-12 (12-12) inc in total on each side of every raglan line).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures (4) 5-5-6-6 (7-7) cm / (1½”) 2”-2”-2½”-2½” (2¾”-2¾”), band ends and piece is worked in the round on needle as follows (make sure that next row is worked from RS): Place piece tog with sts from right band at the top (so that bands are on top of each other and buttonholes are at the edge).
Work 1 round in the round AT THE SAME TIME K tog the 6 sts from right and left band 2 by 2, work the rest of round, cut the yarn and beg next round mid back.
Continue rib and pattern in the round AT THE SAME TIME continue inc for raglan as before but work the 6 sts mid front as follows: P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts) and P 2.
After last inc for raglan there are (144) 144-160-192-208 (224-224) sts on needle. Work (0) 2-2-2-2 (2-2) more rounds as before, piece measures approx. (7) 8-8-10-11 (11-11) cm/ (2¾”) 3”-3”-4”-4½” (4½”-4½”) from shoulder.
On next round slip the (32) 32-32-40-48 (48-48) sts between each marker over sleeve on stitch holders (work sts before slipping them on stitch holder) = (40) 40-48-56-56 (64-64) sts remain on front and back piece.
BODY:
= (80) 80-96-112-112 (128-128) sts. On next round cast on (8) 16-12-12-16 (16-20) LOOSE sts under each sleeve = (96) 112-120-136-144 (160-168) sts on body – NOW MEASURES PIECE FROM HERE. Place a marker each side.
Continue rib in the round as before (= K 2/P 2) with A.1 at the front as before. When piece measures (13) 16-20-20-21 (24-27) cm/ (5”) 6¼”-8”-8”-8¼” (9½”-10½”) from armhole, divide at the markers in each side and finish front and back piece separately.
BACK PIECE:
= (48) 56-60-68-72 (80-84) sts. Work rib back and forth as before but work the outermost 3 sts in each side in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st inside the 3 edge sts in each side – READ DECREASE TIP 1 (= 2 sts dec).
Repeat dec on every row (i.e. from both RS and WS) (6) 10-12-16-14 (18-14) more times (= (7) 11-13-17-15 (19-15) times in total) and then every other row (i.e. every row from RS) (5) 5-5-5-7 (7-11) times in total = (24) 24-24-24-28 (28-32) sts remain on needle.
K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec (8) 8-8-8-10 (10-12) sts evenly = (16) 16-16-16-18 (18-20) sts remain on needle. K 10 rows (= 5 ridges) and loosely bind off with K from WS.
FRONT PIECE:
= (48) 56-60-68-72 (80-84) sts. Work rib back and forth as before but work the outermost 3 sts in each side in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st inside the 3 edge sts in each side – READ DECREASE TIP 1 (= 2 sts dec).
Repeat dec on every row (i.e. from both RS and WS) (11) 13-17-21-19 (23-17) more times (= (12) 14-18-22-20 (24-18) times in total) and then every other row (i.e. every row from RS) (0) 2-0-0-2 (2-8) times in total = (24) 24-24-24-28 (28-32) sts remain on needle.
K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec (8) 8-8-8-10 (10-12) sts evenly = (16) 16-16-16-18 (18-20) sts on needle. K 1 row from WS.
On next row (= RS), dec for 3 buttonholes as follows: K (3) 3-3-3-3 (3-4), * 1 YO, K 2 tog, K (2) 2-2-2-3 (3-3) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, K 2 tog, 1 YO and K (3) 3-3-3-3 (3-4). K 4 rows (= 2 ridges) and loosely bind off with K from WS.
SLEEVE:
= (32) 32-32-40-48 (48-48) sts. Cast on (8) 16-12-12-16 (16-20) LOOSE sts under sleeve = (40) 48-44-52-64 (64-68) sts on needle (work in the round on double pointed needles). Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Continue rib in the round as before (= K 2/P 2). AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 1 cm/½”, dec 1 st on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP 2. Repeat dec every (4) 4-6-6-6 (8-8) rows (3) 7-3-7-7 (7-7) more times (= (4) 8-4-8-8 (8-8) times in total) = (32) 32-36-36-48 (48-52) sts remain on needle.
When sleeve measures (12) 16-20-20-24 (29-35) cm/ (4¾”) 6¼”-8”-8”-9½” (11½”-13¾”), loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.
Work the other sleeve the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.
Sew 2 buttons on to left button band in the neck and 3 buttons at the bottom of body.
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.
RAGLAN:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st on each side of the 4 raglan lines by making 1 YO on each side of the 2 sts K in each raglan line (seen from RS). Work YOs into rib, i.e. P the first 2 sts from WS, K the next 2 sts from WS etc. – NOTE: Do not work YOs twisted (i.e. there should be holes on each side of the 2 K sts in raglan line).
BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO (dec for buttonholes from WS).
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE (premature): 1 and 3 cm / ½” and 1”.
SIZE 0/1 month + 1/3 months: 1 and 4 cm/ ½” and 1½”.
SIZE 6/9 months + 12/18 months: 1 and 4½ cm / ½” and 1¾”.
SIZE (2 years + 3/4 years): 1 and 5 cm / ½” and 2”.
DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to leg opening):
Dec inside 3 edge sts in garter st.
FROM RS:
Dec after 3 sts in garter st as follows: P 2 twisted tog.
Dec as follows before 3 sts in garter st (beg when 5 sts remain on row): P 2 tog.
FROM WS:
Dec after 3 sts in garter st as follows: K 2 twisted tog.
Dec as follows before 3 sts in garter st (beg when 5 sts remain on row): K 2 tog.
DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to sleeves):
Work until 3 sts remain before marker, work 2 sts tog (in rib), work 2 sts (marker is between these 2 sts) and then work 2 sts twisted tog (in rib).
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ONESIE:
The piece is worked top down. Work back and forth on circular needle to after neck vent, then work piece in the round on double pointed needles/circular needles before dividing for leg openings. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.
YOKE:
Cast on (54) 60-60-64-74 (74-74) sts (includes 6 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3.5 mm/US 4 with off white Baby Merino. K 4 rows (1st row = RS).
Then work an elevation in the back of neck as follows (1st row = RS):
K until (6) 8-8-8-10 (10-10) sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and work until (6) 8-8-8-10 (10-10) sts remain in the other side.
Turn piece, tighten yarn and work until (12) 16-16-16-20 (20-20) sts remain, turn piece, tighten yarn and work back until (12) 16-16-16-20 (20-20) sts remain.
Turn piece, tighten yarn and work until (18) 24-24-24-30 (30-30) sts remain, turn, tighten yarn and work until (18) 24-24-24-30 (30-30) sts remain in the other side.
Turn piece, tighten yarn and work the rest of the row.
Work next row as follows from WS: K 6 band sts, P the next (42) 48-48-52-62 (62-62) sts AT THE SAME TIME inc (32) 26-42-38-44 (60-60) sts evenly over these sts and finish with K 6 band sts (remember BUTTONHOLES on band – see explanation above) = (86) 86-102-102-118 (134-134) sts on needle.
WORK NEXT ROW AS FOLLOWS FROM RS:
SIZE (premature) + 0/1 month:
6 band sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, K 2, P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2, K 2 and 6 band sts in GARTER ST.
SIZE 1/3 months + 6/9 months + 12/18 months:
6 band sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, K 2, P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2, K 2, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 3-3-5 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 7 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 3-3-5 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), P 2, K 2, P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2, K 2 and 6 band sts in GARTER ST.
SIZE (2 years + 3/4 years):
6 band sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, ** K 2, P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2 **, repeat from **-** 2 times in total, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 9 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, P 2, K 2 (insert 1 marker in the middle of these 2 sts = raglan line), ** P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts), P 2, K 2 **, repeat from **-** 2 times in total and finish with 6 band sts in GARTER ST.
ALL SIZES:
Continue pattern like this back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 sts inc). Repeat inc every other row/round (i.e. every row from RS) (7) 7-7-11-11 (11-11) more times (= (8) 8-8-12-12 (12-12) inc in total on each side of every raglan line).
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures (4) 5-5-6-6 (7-7) cm / (1½”) 2”-2”-2½”-2½” (2¾”-2¾”), band ends and piece is worked in the round on needle as follows (make sure that next row is worked from RS): Place piece tog with sts from right band at the top (so that bands are on top of each other and buttonholes are at the edge).
Work 1 round in the round AT THE SAME TIME K tog the 6 sts from right and left band 2 by 2, work the rest of round, cut the yarn and beg next round mid back.
Continue rib and pattern in the round AT THE SAME TIME continue inc for raglan as before but work the 6 sts mid front as follows: P 2, A.1 (= 2 sts) and P 2.
After last inc for raglan there are (144) 144-160-192-208 (224-224) sts on needle. Work (0) 2-2-2-2 (2-2) more rounds as before, piece measures approx. (7) 8-8-10-11 (11-11) cm/ (2¾”) 3”-3”-4”-4½” (4½”-4½”) from shoulder.
On next round slip the (32) 32-32-40-48 (48-48) sts between each marker over sleeve on stitch holders (work sts before slipping them on stitch holder) = (40) 40-48-56-56 (64-64) sts remain on front and back piece.
BODY:
= (80) 80-96-112-112 (128-128) sts. On next round cast on (8) 16-12-12-16 (16-20) LOOSE sts under each sleeve = (96) 112-120-136-144 (160-168) sts on body – NOW MEASURES PIECE FROM HERE. Place a marker each side.
Continue rib in the round as before (= K 2/P 2) with A.1 at the front as before. When piece measures (13) 16-20-20-21 (24-27) cm/ (5”) 6¼”-8”-8”-8¼” (9½”-10½”) from armhole, divide at the markers in each side and finish front and back piece separately.
BACK PIECE:
= (48) 56-60-68-72 (80-84) sts. Work rib back and forth as before but work the outermost 3 sts in each side in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st inside the 3 edge sts in each side – READ DECREASE TIP 1 (= 2 sts dec).
Repeat dec on every row (i.e. from both RS and WS) (6) 10-12-16-14 (18-14) more times (= (7) 11-13-17-15 (19-15) times in total) and then every other row (i.e. every row from RS) (5) 5-5-5-7 (7-11) times in total = (24) 24-24-24-28 (28-32) sts remain on needle.
K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec (8) 8-8-8-10 (10-12) sts evenly = (16) 16-16-16-18 (18-20) sts remain on needle. K 10 rows (= 5 ridges) and loosely bind off with K from WS.
FRONT PIECE:
= (48) 56-60-68-72 (80-84) sts. Work rib back and forth as before but work the outermost 3 sts in each side in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st inside the 3 edge sts in each side – READ DECREASE TIP 1 (= 2 sts dec).
Repeat dec on every row (i.e. from both RS and WS) (11) 13-17-21-19 (23-17) more times (= (12) 14-18-22-20 (24-18) times in total) and then every other row (i.e. every row from RS) (0) 2-0-0-2 (2-8) times in total = (24) 24-24-24-28 (28-32) sts remain on needle.
K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec (8) 8-8-8-10 (10-12) sts evenly = (16) 16-16-16-18 (18-20) sts on needle. K 1 row from WS.
On next row (= RS), dec for 3 buttonholes as follows: K (3) 3-3-3-3 (3-4), * 1 YO, K 2 tog, K (2) 2-2-2-3 (3-3) *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, K 2 tog, 1 YO and K (3) 3-3-3-3 (3-4). K 4 rows (= 2 ridges) and loosely bind off with K from WS.
SLEEVE:
= (32) 32-32-40-48 (48-48) sts. Cast on (8) 16-12-12-16 (16-20) LOOSE sts under sleeve = (40) 48-44-52-64 (64-68) sts on needle (work in the round on double pointed needles). Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Continue rib in the round as before (= K 2/P 2). AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 1 cm/½”, dec 1 st on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP 2. Repeat dec every (4) 4-6-6-6 (8-8) rows (3) 7-3-7-7 (7-7) more times (= (4) 8-4-8-8 (8-8) times in total) = (32) 32-36-36-48 (48-52) sts remain on needle.
When sleeve measures (12) 16-20-20-24 (29-35) cm/ (4¾”) 6¼”-8”-8”-9½” (11½”-13¾”), loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.
Work the other sleeve the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.
Sew 2 buttons on to left button band in the neck and 3 buttons at the bottom of body.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
|
= K from RS, P from WS |
|
= 1 YO between 2 sts |
|
= K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec) |
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
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Hola no entiendo cómo hay que hacer esta parte: Unir la labor con los pts de la cenefa derecha hacia arriba (de modo que las cenefas estén sobrepuestas y los ojales se encuentran en el borde). Trabajar 1 vta en redondo , AL MISMO TIEMPO tejer juntos de derecho los 6 pts de la cenefa derecha y la cenefa izquierda de 2 en 2
14.02.2023 - 16:04DROPS Design answered:
Hola Ana, tenemos que disminuir los pts de la cenefa de la parte izquierda del delantero trabajándolos juntos de derecho con los pts de la cenefa en la parte derecha del delantero. Pasamos los pts de la cenefa izquierda a una aguja auxiliar y los colocamos detrás de la labor. Trabajamos toda la vuelta como antes y, cuando llegamos al 1º punto de la cenefa derecha, trabajar juntos el punto de la cenefa derecha con el 6º punto de la cenefa izquierda, después el 2º pt de la cenefa derecha con el 5º pt de la cenefa izquierda, y así sucesivamente.
16.02.2023 kl. 23:03I have 5 raglan lines( meaning if i followed the pattern correctly where it sais to" continue pattern for all sizes"then i have 5 stitch markers) is this correct? because now i dont know where to start the inc on raglan lines bcz i have 5 st markers. also are the markers supposed to be unevenlly spaced? i am not beginner knitter but its my first time doing raglan. it would be very useful if drops patterns could include full video tutorials. thnx
06.02.2023 - 03:02DROPS Design answered:
Dear lb, you should have only 4 raglan lines in all sizes, one between front piece/sleeve, sleeve/back piece, back piece/sleeve and sleeve/front piece - make sure you divide stitches with markers as it says for the appropriate size. Happy knitting!
06.02.2023 kl. 10:21Ich verstehe die Abnahme bei dem Rückenteil leider nicht. Zuerst nehme ich beidseitig in Hin-und Rückreihe je 1 Masche ab, bis ich nur noch 13 M auf der Nadel habe? (Gr. 1/3 Monate.)\r\nDanach nur noch in den Hinreihen bis ich 8M auf der Nadel habe?\r\nWas danach nicht mehr mit der Anleitung übereinstimmen würde...
22.12.2022 - 21:48DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Mary, ja genau, es wird zuerst 2 Maschen (jeweils innerhalb die 3 ersten und die 3 letzten Maschen) in jeder Reihe (Hin- sowie Rückreihe) abgenommen, dann nehmen Sie 2 Maschen in jeder HinReihe = 24 M übrig in die 4 ersten Größen, dann stricken Sie 1 Hinreire nechts und gleichzeitig nehmen Sie 8 Maschen regelmäßig ab = 16 M übrig. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
23.12.2022 kl. 08:37Når jeg strikker str 1/3 mdr. passer maskeantallet ikke med raglan, hvis der udtages maskeantal som angivet i opskriften. Jeg har så læst i et svar til en anden, at der skal være 102 masker ved raglan start… det har jeg så prøvet at lave udtag til. Når der så er taget ud 8 gange som opskriften angiver er masketalle større end de 144 masker, som skulle være efter raglanudtag…. Jeg synes det er meget ærgerligt, da opskriften bliver meget vanskelig at følge
09.11.2022 - 16:37DROPS Design answered:
Hei Jannie. I str. 1/3 mnd legger du opp 60 masker og etter forhøyningen økes det med 42 masker = 102 masker. Du øker med 8 masker hver gang det økes til raglan, og det økes 8 ganger totalt = 8 x 8 = 64 økte masker + de 102 maskene du hadde før du startet = 166 masker, men SAMTIDIG når arbeidet måler 5 cm strikkes de 12 stolpemaskene sammen til 6 masker, slik at når alle raglansøkningene er strikker er det også minsket 6 masker over stolpen = 160 masker. Og det er det maskeantallet det står i oppskriften. Maskeantallet 144 tilhører str. (prematur) og str. 0/1 mnd. mvh DROPS Design
14.11.2022 kl. 10:33Jag stickar i storlek 1/3mån och är enligt instruktionen klar med raglanökningarna, men mina mått stämmer inte. Mitt arbete mäter ca 7 cm nu, men i instruktionen står det att det ska mäta 8cm "från axeln". Vad är det jag ska mäta som ska vara 8cm? På bilden längst ner ser mina mått ut att stämma ganska bra.
21.05.2022 - 23:27DROPS Design answered:
Hei Linnea. Stemmer din strikkefasthet i høyden som er oppgitt i oppskriften (32 p i høyden = 10 cm)? Husk også at det er strikket en fornøyning. På målskisse er målene til str. 1/3 mnd ca 6+2 cm. mvh DROPS Design
23.05.2022 kl. 09:45Jeg strikker størrelse 1/3 mdr. men kan ikke få maskeantallet til at passe når jeg skal starte på mønster og raglan. Jeg har 86 masker, men som jeg forstår opskriften mangler der en del masker for at "få plads" til hele mønsteret
15.06.2021 - 11:03DROPS Design answered:
Hej Kirsten, i størrelse 1/3 måneder skal du have 102 masker på pinden :)
16.06.2021 kl. 12:53Derfra mangler diagram på netudgave!
17.02.2021 - 17:55Hej jeg er i tvivl, om man fortsætter i retstrikning, mens man laver forhøjning ba i nakken m vendestrik. Mvh maya
17.02.2021 - 17:15DROPS Design answered:
Hej Mays, ja forhøjningen strikkes i retstrik, men du kan naturligvis strikke den i glatstrik hvis du hellere vil det :)
18.02.2021 kl. 08:42Strikker denne i str 12/18 mnd. Får ikke maskeantallet til å stemme på første omgang der inndelingen til raglanlinjen er. Følger inndelingen som det står, men får for lite masker på slutten.
29.12.2020 - 19:33DROPS Design answered:
Hei Hilde. Har du satt merket for raglanlinjene etter 2 rett eller slik det står i oppskriften, sett 1 merke midt mellom disse 2 maskene? Strikk 6 stolpemasker + 14 masker, 1. raglanmerke settes mellom 13. og 14. maske. Deretter strikkes det 24 masker og 2. raglanmerke settes mellom 23. og 24. maske (=1.erme). Så strikkes det 32 masker og 3. raglanmerke settes mellom 31. og 32. maske (=bakstykket). Så strikkes det 24 masker og 4. raglanmerke settes mellom 23. og 24. maske (=2.erme), så strikkes det 12 masker + 6 stolpemasker. Da blir det 19 masker (1.merke) + 24 masker (2. merke) + 32 masker (3.merke) + 24 masker (4.merke) + 19 masker = 118 masker på pinnen. God Fornøyelse!
13.01.2021 kl. 14:34It does :) Thank you!!
17.12.2019 - 15:28