DROPS Baby / 25 / 32

Simply Sweet Shorts by DROPS Design

Knitted short pants in garter st with lace pattern in the sides for baby in DROPS BabyMerino. Size premature - 4 years

Tags: body, lace, pants, shorts,
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-066-by
Yarn group A
Size: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Note: Because of the rib the garment will be very elastic and will stretch compared to the measurements in chart.

DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
(50) 50-100-100-100 (100-100) g color no 02, off white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm / 16" and 24") SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 2.5 mm / US 1.5 - for edges.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagram A.1.

Inc on each side of 2 K sts by working 1 YO. On next round work YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st) to avoid holes. Work the inc sts into rib, i.e. K the first 2 inc sts, and P the next 2 sts etc.

Work until 3 sts remain before marker, work 2 sts tog (in rib), work 2 sts (marker is between these 2 sts) and then work 2 sts twisted tog (in rib).

Worked in the round, top down. Rounds start mid back.
Cast on (88) 96-104-120-128 (136-144) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Baby Merino.
Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid back) and 1 marker after (44) 48-52-60-64 (68-72) sts (= mid front).
Work rib from mid back as follows: K 1, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish round with P 2 and K 1. When rib measures 4 cm / 1½'', work next round as follows: * K 1, 1 YO, P 2 tog, K 2, 1 YO, P 2 tog, K 1 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= edge with eyelet holes for ties).
Work 1 round in rib K 2/P 2.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work an elevation at the back as follows: Work (7) 7-9-9-9 (9-9) sts in rib, turn, tighten yarn, work (14) 14-18-18-18 (18-18) sts in rib, turn, tighten yarn, work (20) 20-26-26-26 (26-26) sts in rib, turn, tighten yarn, work (26) 26-34-34-34 (34-34) sts in rib.
Continue like this by working (6) 6-8-8-8 (8-8) sts more on every turn until a total of (50) 50-66-66-82 (82-82) sts have been worked. Turn, continue rib with pattern A.1 in each side as follows from mid back:

Work rib as before over (19) 23-23-27-31 (31-35) sts, work A.1 over 2 K sts, P 2, A.1 over 2 K sts, work rib over (38) 38-46-54-54 (62-62) sts, work A.1 over 2 K sts, P 2, A.1 over 2 K sts, work rib over the remaining (19) 23-23-27-31 (31-35) sts = (88) 96-104-120-128 (136-144) sts on round.
Continue rib with A.1 2 times in each side until piece measures (10) 12-13-16-15 (16-17) cm / (4") 4 3/4"-5 1/8"-6 1/4"-6" (6 1/4"-6 3/4") mid front. Now inc 1 st on each side of the 2 middle sts at the front and back – SEE INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc).
Repeat inc every other round (7) 7-7-7-11 (11-11) more times (= (8) 8-8-8-12 (12-12) inc in total) = (120) 128-136-152-176 (184-192) sts.
When piece measures (15) 17-18-21-22 (23-24) cm / (6") 6 3/4"-7"-8 1/4"-8 3/4" (9"-9½") mid front (inc are now done), bind off sts for gusset as follows: Beg mid back and bind off the first (6) 6-6-6-8 (8-8) sts (bind off with K over K and P over P). Work rib until (6) 6-6-6-8 (8-8) sts before marker at the front and bind off (12) 12-12-12-16 (16-16) sts.
Work rib until (6) 6-6-6-8 (8-8) sts remain on round. Bind off.
Slip sts for one leg on a stitch holder and finish each leg separately.

= (48) 52-56-64-72 (76-80) sts. Distribute sts on 4 double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and continue rib and A.1 in the round as before for (1) 1-1-2-2 (2-3) cm / (½") ½"-½"-3/4"-3/4" (3/4"-1"). Finish after 4th or 8th row in A.1. Work 1 cm / ½'' more in rib without A.1.
Then loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.
The whole piece measures approx. (17) 19-20-24-25 (26-28) cm / (6 3/4") 7½"-8"-9½"-9 3/4" (10 1/4"-11"). Slip sts from the other leg back on needle and work as first leg.

Sew tog the (12) 12-12-12-16 (16-16) sts that were bound off between legs.

Cut 2 lengths off white yarn of 2.5-3.5 meters / 2.75-3.75yds each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the strands double so that they twine. Make a knot at each end.
Baste the yarn up and down through eyelet row - start and finish mid front.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 25-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

Sara Grebner 12.03.2020 - 07:27:

Hej! Jag har kommit till delen där man ska öka. Men jag förstår inte hur jag ska tänka med resåren. Man stickar ju runt utan att vända. Hur ska omslagen stickas och hur ska de två räta maskorna i mitten stickas? Mvh Sara

DROPS Design 16.03.2020 kl. 12:15:

Hei Sara. Les ØKETIPS i oppskriften, der står det: Det økes på hver side av 2 maskene rett ved å lage 1 kast, på neste omgang strikkes kastene vridd (dvs strikk i bakre maske-bue) slik at det ikke blir hull. De økte maskene strikkes fortløpende inn i vrangborden, dvs at de 2 første maskene som økes strikkes rett, de 2 neste vrang osv. God Fornøyelse!

Janita 10.02.2020 - 19:55:

Hei. Jeg skjønner ikke hvordan jeg skal øke i vrangborden uten at det vises i vrangbord-mønsteret. Dersom jeg lager 1 kast på hver side av 2r og strikker disse f.eks. vridd rett neste omgang vil jo dette bryte med mønstret? Skjønte ikke hva dere mente med å «strikke de økte m direkte inn i vrangborden. Takk for svar på forhånd!

DROPS Design 11.02.2020 kl. 13:57:

Hej Janita, jo alle de "gamle" masker skal stemme over vrangborden, men for hver gang du øker, skal de nye masker strikkes som næste maske i vrangborden. Nej de vil ikke stemme hele vejen rundt før du har taget nok masker ud til at de går op :)

Pia 01.09.2016 - 01:17:

Hvad betyder 'tel' ? det står i forbindelse med størrelserne overst på opskriften.

DROPS Design 01.09.2016 kl. 12:15:

Hej Pia. Det har jeg ikke staaende. Jeg tror din Skype er koblet paa en eller anden maade til din browser, saa den laver str om til telefonnummer :)

Bourgarel 20.10.2015 - 10:43:

Què save dire "re-hausse" pour le dos? Lorsqu'en tricote le pantalon vous dites de tricoter un "re-hausse pour le dos" et je ne comprends pas bien ce qu'il faut faire. merci d'avance pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 20.10.2015 kl. 14:03:

Bonjour Mme Bourgarel, la ré-hausse dos consiste à tricoter quelques rangs raccourcis sur les mailles du dos pour donner l'aisance voulue. Suivez bien les indications pour votre taille et tricotez 7-9 m à partir du milieu dos, tournez et tricotez 14-18 m, tournez, tricotez 20-26 m, tournez et tricotez 269-34 m, tournez et tricotez 6-8 m en plus à chaque rang, à chaque fois que vous tournez jusqu'à ce que vous ayez tricoté 50-82m, tournez et continuez ensuite en rond comme indiqué. Bon tricot!

Manuela 15.06.2015 - 10:52:

Mit dem Top einfach eine super Kombination für die heißen Tage!

Emma Falch 15.10.2014 - 21:14:

Ønsker å strikke denne som lang bukse i stedet for shorts. Har dere noen tips til hvordan jeg burde strikke beina? Hvor lange bør de være og bør jeg felle noen masker underveis for å skråne beina?

DROPS Design 17.10.2014 kl. 15:00:

Hei Emma. Du kan bruke målene i lengden som på modell 25-17. Der er det også en felling som du sikkert kan tilpasse etter. Lykke til videre.

Emma Falch 08.10.2014 - 13:06:

Sammenligner med oppskriften for den kortermede genseren som passer til, der står det pinnestr 3,5 og likt antall masker per cm som i denne oppskriften hvor man bare skal bruke pinnestr 3. Det må vel være en feil?

DROPS Design 16.10.2014 kl. 16:02:

Her har du strikkefastheden i både rib og glatstrik på p nr 3,5 – eller det p.nr du skal bruge for at få 34 m x 32 p Rib på 10 x 10 cm (24 m x 32 p glatstrik på 10 x 10 cm).

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