DROPS / 119 / 21

Sea Blush by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS bolero with lace pattern in ”Cotton Viscose” and ”Kid-Silk”. Size XS/S - XXXL

Tags: boleros, lace,
DROPS design: Pattern no N-110
Size: XS/S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
color no 28, light pink: 200-250-250-300-300-350 g
and use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
color no 03, light pink: 75-75-75-100-100-100 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 4.5 mm/US 7 - or size needed to get 14 sts in lace pattern with 1 thread of each quality = width 10 cm / 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 4 mm/US 6 – for rib.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
DROPS Cotton Viscose DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
find alternatives

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1 – Diagram shows the pattern from RS.

INCREASING TIP: Inc by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole.

Body piece worked back and forth on needle, and rib border worked in the round on circular needle.

Cast on 104-111-118-126-133-140 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 thread of each quality. K 3 rows (first row = WS) AT THE SAME TIME on row 3 dec 17-18-19-21-22-23 sts evenly (work approx every 5th and 6th st tog) = 87-93-99-105-111-117 sts. Continue as follows from RS: 3 GARTER STS - see above, M.1A (= 3 sts), M.1B until 3 sts remain and finish with 3 GARTER STS. Continue in M.1 like this with 3 garter sts each side. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 3-3-4-5-6-7 cm / 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1½"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4" cast on 6 new sts each side for sleeve = 99-105-111-117-123-129 sts. Continue in M.1 on all sts with 3 garter sts each side. When piece measures 37-41-44-47-50-53 cm / 14½"-16 1/8"-17 1/4"-18½"-19 3/4"-21" bind off 6 sts each side = 87-93-99-105-111-117 sts. Continue in M.1 with 3 garter sts each side until piece measures 39-43-47-51-55-59 cm / 15 1/4"-17"-18½"-20"-21 5/8"-23 1/4" (adjust so that next row is from WS). K 3 rows AT THE SAME TIME on row 1 inc 17-18-19-21-22-23 sts evenly (approx after every 5th st) = 104-111-118-126-133-140 sts. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. Now pick up 104-111-118-126-133-140 sts in cast on row = 208-222-236-252-266-280 sts, and continue in the round. P 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME inc 80-86-92-100-106-112 sts evenly on round (after approx every other and 3rd st alternately) –see INCREASING TIP = 288-308-328-352-372-392 sts. K 1 round and then continue in rib K2/P2 on all sts. When rib measures 2.5 cm / 7/8'' inc 1 st in each P-section (P2 in first P st) and continue in rib K2/P3 until rib measures 5 cm / 2''. On next round inc 1 st in each K-section (K2 in the last K st) and continue in rib K3/P3 until rib measures 7 cm / 2¾''. Bind off with K over K and P over P.

Sew side and under arm seams inside 1 edge st – see broken line in chart.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 01.09.2010
Materials: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
color no 28, light pink: 200-250-250-300-300-350 g
and use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
color no 03, light pink: 75-75-75-100-100-100 g


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= how to wear the bolero
= K from RS, P from WS
= 1 YO
= slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 119-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (119)

Yvonne 20.05.2019 - 15:58:

Hoe moet ik 104 steken opnemen aan het eind van het patroon

DROPS Design 22.05.2019 kl. 13:13:

Dag Yvonne,

Je steekt de naald in een steek van de opzetrand, slaat de draad om en haalt deze door de steek. Zo neem je 104 steken op in de opzetnaald, zodat je de boord in de rondte kan breien. Misschien heb je ook wat aan deze video. Het gaat over opnemen langs een ribbelsteek in deze video, maar het komt ongeveer op hetzelfde neer.

Fontaine Karlyne 05.03.2018 - 11:11:

Bonjour j'aimerais tricoter se boléro pour offrir ,la personne fait en tout de poitrine ,121 cm qu'elle taille doit je tricoter car je n'ai pas trouver le guide des tailles merci

DROPS Design 05.03.2018 kl. 11:25:

Bonjour Mme Karlyne, comparez les mesures du schéma à celles d'un vêtement similaire qui lui va - (largeur dos, sans les manches 62-84 cm) en comparant si besoin les mesures d'un autre vêtement de ce même catalogue dans les différentes tailles. Cliquez ici pour en savoir plus sur les tailles. Bon tricot!

Trudy 19.08.2017 - 09:45:

Is dit patroon geschikt voor breien op 2 nld? Graag wat uitleg hier over? Groet Trudy Koster

DROPS Design 20.08.2017 kl. 21:40:

Hallo Trudy, Het patroon is niet geschikt om op te delen in voor en achterpand met een zijnaad erin, en omdat er veel steken op de naald staan, heeft rondbreinaalden de voorkeur. Als je een kleine maat maakt, zou je met twee rechte naalden met knop kunnen breien ipv een rondbreinaald. Bij de grotere naalden wordt het denk ik wat krap om de steken op de naald te houden.

Anne 17.06.2017 - 21:50:

I am having difficulty with the pattern - are there written instructions for this garment?

DROPS Design 18.06.2017 kl. 18:16:

Dear Anne, originally there is no written out pattern for the lace, but here you go: 1st row: *K 3, yo, ssk, k2tog* repeat *-*. until the end of row. Row 2: purl Row 3: knit Row 4: purl. Row 5: *yo,ssk, k2tog, yo, 3 K*. Repeat *-* end of row. Row 6: purl Row 7: knit Row 8 : purl. Repeat row 1-8. I hope this helps. Happy knitting!

Diana Sutton 11.01.2017 - 15:09:

Can you please tell me the approximate sizing for XL and XXL - bust size in inches, centimetres or U.K. sizing would be great. Thankyou

DROPS Design 11.01.2017 kl. 18:15:

Dear Mrs Sutton, you will find all measurements for each size in the measurement chart at the bottom of the page, compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Click here to read more and remember you can contact your DROPS store for any further personnal assistance. Happy knitting!

Sophia 20.02.2016 - 09:58:

When say continue with M1 what it means? M1a and M1b together or only M1b?

DROPS Design 20.02.2016 kl. 12:42:

Dear Sofia, continue working M.1a at the beg of row from RS (end of row from WS) and repeat M.1b. Happy knitting!

Sophia 20.02.2016 - 00:22:

In pattern say 3st in garter, m1a 3st, m1b until 3st remain .(.how we knit these remain sts?)and 3st in garter.thank you.

DROPS Design 20.02.2016 kl. 12:53:

Dear Sofia, repeat M.1b in width until 3 sts remain and finish with 3 sts in garter st. Happy knitting!

Natalie 13.06.2015 - 23:24:

Hallo, wie breit soll das Bündchen werden: 7 cm oder 14,5 (2,5+5+7)? Danke im Voraus

DROPS Design 16.06.2015 kl. 11:42:

Mit dem 7 cm ist die Gesamthöhe des Bündchens gemeint, also nicht 14,5, sondern nur 7 cm.

Marie Rönnberg 31.03.2015 - 10:41:

Hur tolkar jag diagramet? det står 3 räta i början och slutet av varje varv men då följs ju inte diagrammet som på varv 6 ska de börjas med 1 omslag, lyft 1 sticka ihop 2 dra lyfta över sen omslag. om man gör som nu skriver så är de ju samma mönster som upprepas som varv 4 hela tiden.

DROPS Design 13.05.2015 kl. 12:26:

Hej. De 3 rätstickade maskorna ingår inte i diagramet. "Sedan stickas det så här från rätsidan: 3 m RÄTST - se förkl ovan, M.1A (= 3 m), M.1B tills det återstår 3 m och avsluta med 3 m RÄTST." Du stickar alltså 3 rätstickade maskor, sen diagramet och till slut 3 rätstickade maskor. Lycka till!

Genie Carter 17.03.2015 - 03:14:

When pattern says to pick up 104 sts in cast on row, do I connect these sts to the sts already on the needles and if so please explain how. Pattern states to change needle size. do I pick up the sts. then connect the existing sts to knit in the round?

DROPS Design 17.03.2015 kl. 09:20:

Dear Mrs Carter, when you have 104 sts left on your needle, pick up 1 st in each of the sts from cast on row (from RS) = 104 sts picked up = 208 sts on the needle, then continue in the round for the edge. Happy knitting!

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