DROPS / 119 / 27

Marcia by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS bolero in lace pattern with short raglan sleeve in ”Muskat”. Size XS/S to XXXL

  • Marcia / DROPS 119-27 - Knitted DROPS bolero in lace pattern with short raglan sleeve in ”Muskat”. Size XS/S to XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern no R-562
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Size: XS/S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 72-86-94-102-116-132 cm / 28 3/8"-33 7/8"-37"-40"-45 3/4"-52"
Full length: 34-36-38-41-44-47 cm / 13 3/8"-14 1/4"-15"-16 1/8"-17 1/4"-18½"

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
color no 10, peach: 200-250-250-300-300-350 g

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES size 4 mm / US 6 – or size needed to get 16 sts x 22 rows in lace pattern = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 3.5 mm/US 4 - for rib.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS no 540: 1 pcs.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 2.10 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 2.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 – Diagram shows the pattern from RS (first row = RS).

DECREASING TIP (applies to raglan):
Dec 1 st inside 1 garter st along raglan:
FROM RS:
After 1 garter st: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
2 sts before 1 garter st: K2 tog.
FROM WS:
After 1 garter st: P2 tog.
2 sts before 1 garter st: P2 tog into back of loop.
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BOLERO:

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 59-71-77-83-95-107 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Muskat. P 1 row from WS and work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see above, M.1A (= 3 sts), M.1B until 1 st remain and finish with 1 edge st in GARTER ST. Continue in pattern like this. When piece measures 11-12-13-15-17-19 cm / 4 3/8"-4 3/4"-5 1/8"-6"-6 3/4"-7½" - adjust so that next row is from RS – bind off 3 sts for armhole at the beg of the next 2 rows. On next row from RS dec 1 st each side for raglan - see DECREASING TIP, and repeat the dec on every other row a total of 2-7-6-5-10-9 times and then on every 4th row a total of 7-5-6-7-5-6 times = 35-41-47-53-59-71 sts – NOTE: Work sts not fitting into pattern in stockinette st until they fit pattern. Slip sts on a stitch holder, piece measures approx 25-27-29-32-35-38 cm / 9¾''-10 5/8''-11 3/8''-12½''-13¾''-15''.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 17-23-29-29-35-41 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Muskat. P 1 row from WS and work next row as follows from RS (= from mid front): 1 edge st in garter st, M.1A (= 3 sts), M.1B until 1 st remain and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue in pattern like this, AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts at the end of every row from WS (= towards mid front) as follows: 1 st 2 times and then 2 sts a total of 5 times = 29-35-41-41-47-53 sts - NOTE: work inc sts not fitting into pattern in stockinette st until they fit pattern, with 1 edge st in garter st. When piece measures 11-12-13-15-17-19 cm / 4 3/8"-4 3/4"-5 1/8"-6"-6 3/4"-7½" - adjust so that next row is from WS - bind off 3 sts at the side for armhole. On next row dec for raglan as described for back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12-13-14-16-18-20 cm / 4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5½"-6 1/4"-7"-8" slip 9 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck and bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 3 sts 1-2-2-2-3-4 times and 1 st 0-0-9-8-7-13 times, then on every other row from mid front: 1 st 3-3-2-3-4-1 times and then on every 3rd row from mid front: 1 st 2-2-0-0-0-0 times (i.e. all sts have been dec) – work sts not fitting into pattern in stockinette st until they fit pattern again.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Like right front piece, but mirrored, i.e. work first row from RS from the side towards mid front, cast on new sts towards mid front at the end of every row from RS (instead of WS). Bind off 3 sts for armhole at the beg of row from RS and bind off for neckline at the beg of row from WS (instead of RS).

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. LOOSELY cast on 74-78-78-82-82-86 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat. P 1 row from WS and continue in rib, K2/P2, with 1 garter st each side. When rib measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' P 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 18-16-16-14-14-12 sts evenly = 56-62-62-68-68-74 sts. Change to needle size 4 mm / US 6 and continue in M.1B with 1 edge st each side (first row = RS). When piece measures 7-7-9-11-12-13 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3½"-4 3/8"-4 3/4"-5 1/8" - adjust so that next row is from RS and finish on the same row in M.1 as on back piece to make pattern fit when body piece and sleeve are sewn tog – bind off 3 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows = 50-56-56-62-62-68 sts. On next row from RS dec 1 st each side for raglan – see DECREASING TIP, and repeat the dec on every other row a total of 15-15-18-16-18-18 times and then on every row a total of 0-3-0-5-3-6 times = 20 sts left on needle for all sizes. Slip sts on a stitch holder, piece measures approx 21-22-25-28-30-32 cm / 8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9 3/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew raglan seams inside 1 edge st.

RIB BORDER:
Pick up approx 198-234-258-290-330-378 sts (= approx 22 sts on 10 cm / 4'', number of sts should be divisible by 4 + 2) from RS inside 1 edge st along opening of bolero (do not pick up round neckline) on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat – make sure to pick up enough sts on the rounded front pieces. P 1 row from WS and continue in rib back and forth on needle as follows (first row = RS): 2 edge sts in garter st, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 2 edge sts in garter st. Bind off LOOSELY with K over K, P over P and garter st over garter st when rib measures 3 cm / 1 1/8''.

NECKLINE:
Slip sts from stitch holders back on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4, AT THE SAME TIME pick up approx 40 to 55 sts along neckline from RS on each front piece (also pick up on rib mid front and include sts from stitch holders mid front) = approx 155 to 221 sts on needle. P 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME dec evenly to approx 150-154-158-162-166-174 sts (number of sts divisible by 4 + 2). Continue in rib as follows (first row = RS): 2 edge sts in garter st, * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K2 and 2 edge sts in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME after 1 cm / 3/8'' make 1 buttonhole on right side of piece (as seen from RS) as follows: bind off 4th st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on next row. Bind off with K over K, P over P and garter st over garter st when rib measures 3 cm / 1 1/8''. Sew on button.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, 1 YO
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 119-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (75)

country flag Anna 03.06.2021 - 20:50:

Buonasera, avrei una domanda da porle. Dopo aver avviato le maglie la spiegazione dice di lavorare un ferro al rovescio dal rovescio del lavoro, ma io in quel momento sono dal dritto del lavoro e non dal rovescio. Come faccio? Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 03.06.2021 kl. 23:09:

Buonasera Anna, il 1° ferro dopo aver avviato le maglie sarà il suo rovescio del lavoro: prosegue da li la lavorazione. Buon lavoro!

country flag Pam 21.05.2021 - 05:14:

Just wanted to start out right. Immediately after cast on, the pattern says to purl a row, but does not mention the edge stitch in garter stitch. So all stitches should be purled on that row? Or is the first stitch a knit stitch?

user icon DROPS Design 21.05.2021 kl. 07:56:

Dear Pam, on the very first row, purl all stitches without any edge stitches, then work pattern with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. Happy knitting!

country flag Riviere Francoise 11.04.2021 - 11:48:

Bonjour, un grand merci pour votre aide, j'ai terminé le modèle il est magnifique. Je l'ai tricoté avec la laine drops Coton Merino, le rendu est très beau doux et va à merveille avec la robe bustier de la mariée.

country flag Riviere Francoise 26.03.2021 - 19:29:

J'en arrive au col. Pour avoir l'ensemble des mailles je dois soit en relever soit en reprendre(maille en attente). Donc ces maille en attente je dois les tricoter pour ensuite relever les mailles suivante. j'aurai donc sur ce rang des mailles tricote et des mailles relevés. est-ce normal ? encore merci

user icon DROPS Design 30.03.2021 kl. 11:20:

Bonjour Mame Riviere, vous devez tricoter les mailles en attente pour éviter d'avoir à couper le fil. Bon tricot!

country flag Riviere Francoise 25.03.2021 - 17:33:

Bonjour, maintenant je dois relever les mailles des bordures cotes. Comment fait-on pour relever pratiquement deux fois plus de mailles qu'il n'y a. Fait-on un jeté que l'on tricote torse j'ai essayé mais ce n'est pas tres jolie merci !

user icon DROPS Design 26.03.2021 kl. 07:00:

Bonjour Mme Riviere, vous devriez avoir suffisamment de place pour relever toutes ces mailles, relevez suffisamment rapproché si besoin, vous allez ensuite tricoter en côtes, ce qui nécessite plus de mailles pour moins de largeur. Si besoin, augmentez au 1er rang en tricotant 2 fois une maille si l'augmentation jeté tricoté torse ne vous convient pas. Relevez aussi plus de mailles au niveau de l'arrondi des devants pour que la bordure soit plus belle. Bon tricot!

country flag Francoise Riviere 22.03.2021 - 14:32:

Bonjour. Je ne comprends pas ajuster le motif avec le dos et devant lorsque qu'on tricote la manche. Merci

user icon DROPS Design 22.03.2021 kl. 15:35:

Bonjour Mme Rivière, vous devez rabattre les 3 mailles au début des 2 prochains rangs aux mêmes rangs du point fantaisie que vous avez rabattu les mailles des emmanchures au dos et à chacun des devants. Ainsi, le motif sera le même sur le dos/les devants et sur les manches. Bon tricot!

country flag Riviere 19.03.2021 - 09:48:

Bonjour, je suis au début de l'emmanchure devant droit. Pouvez-vous me préciser le en même temps à 12 cm. glisser 9m coté encolure : est-ce bien au niveau coté milieu devant. Si oui je dois le faire lorsque je tricote sur l'envers. Je ne comprends pas pourquoi ces mailles en particulier sur un arret maille. Merci comme toujours !

user icon DROPS Design 19.03.2021 kl. 10:26:

Bonjour Mme Riviere, les 9 mailles à mettre en attente côté milieu devant = pour l'encolure doivent être tricotées avant, ainsi, pas besoin de couper le fil. Pour le devant droit, ce sont les 9 mailles en début de rang sur l'endroit; pour le devant gauche ce seront les 9 mailles en début de rang sur l'envers. Ces mailles seront ensuite reprises au moment de tricoter le col. Bon tricot!

country flag A Sturman 21.07.2020 - 09:45:

I do not understand the front piece “slip 9 stitches toward mid front”. Do I work those immediately after slipping them? Confused

user icon DROPS Design 29.07.2020 kl. 08:30:

Dear Mrs Sturman, yes, you work these 9 first stitch at the beg of the row starting from mid front and slip these stitches on a thread/stitch holder, work row to the end, turn and work return row (= this row will stop just before these 9 sts). Happy knitting!

country flag Heather Hobbs 05.09.2019 - 23:47:

This is a lovely garment but so many people have obviously had trouble following the instructions I am not game to try it :-(

country flag Carrion Francoise 21.07.2018 - 09:12:

Bonjour, je suis en train de tricoter ce modèle. Surprise ! Le raglan des devants est plus court que celui du dos et les manches n'ont pas de diminutions particulières pour correspondre et rejoindre les devants qui sont "arrêtés" plus bas que le dos. J'ai bien suivi vos explications. D'ailleurs sur le croquis on voit bien que les devants sont plus courts au niveau du raglan. Merci de m'aider. Cordialement.

user icon DROPS Design 23.07.2018 kl. 07:33:

Bonjour Mme Carrion, c'est à priori tout à fait possible car les diminutions de l'encolure devant vont empiéter également sur les mailles du raglan. Pour les manches, on diminue pour le raglan 1 m de chaque côté tous les 2 rangs puis tous les rangs en fonction de la taille. Bon tricot!

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