DROPS Baby / 10 / 7

Beach Baby by DROPS Design

Short sleeved dress and hat in Safran

  • Beach Baby / DROPS Baby 10-7 - Short sleeved dress and hat in Safran
  • Beach Baby / DROPS Baby 10-7 - Short sleeved dress and hat in Safran
Size: 6/9 – 12/18 months - 2 – 3/4 years
Finished measure:
Bust: 46-54-60-66 cm / 18"-21 1/4"-23 5/8"-26"
Full length: 37-47-51-55 cm / 14½"-18"-20"-21 5/8"

Materials: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
150-150-200-200 g color 17, white

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needle size 3 mm / US 2½
Buttons, 4 pcs

Knitting gauge: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size 3 mm / US 2½ in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Cotton
from 1.55 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.55 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.65$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Garter sts (back and forth): Knit all rows

Pattern: See diagrams M.1-M.3. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.

Buttonhole: Make buttonholes on right front band on the yoke from RS as follows: bind off 3rd st from edge and make a yo over bind off st on the return row. Make buttonholes as follows:
Size 6/9 months: 22, 25, 28 and 31 cm / 8 3/4"-9 3/4"-11"-12 1/4"
Size 12/18 months: 31, 34.5, 38 and 41 cm / 12 1/4"-13½"-15"-16 1/8"
Size 2 years: 33, 37, 40.5 and 44 cm / 13"-14½"-16"-17 1/4"
Size 3/4 years: 36, 39.5, 44 and 48 cm / 14 1/4"-15½"-17 1/4"-19"

Decreasing tips (apply to armhole and neck): All dec are done from the RS.
Dec as follows before 4 garter sts: K2 tog
Dec as follows after 4 garter sts: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso



The dress is knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 189-199-209-219 sts (includes 4 edge sts each side = mid front, knitted in garter sts throughout) on needle size 3 mm / US 2½.
Knit M.1 and continue in M.2. When piece measures 22-31-33-35 cm / 8 3/4"-12 1/4"-13"-13 3/4" knit M.3, at the same time dec 79-69-65-61 sts evenly on the first row (do not dec over edge sts each side) = 110-130-144-158 sts. After M.3 finish the piece in stockinette – edge sts in garter sts and remember buttonholes on right front band, see above. When piece measures 25-34-37-40 cm / 9 3/4"-13 3/8"-14½"-15 3/4" insert 2 markers, 28-33-37-40 sts in from each side = 54-64-70-78 sts between markers = back piece. Continue with 4 rows in garter st over 6 sts each side of both markers (the remaining sts in stockinette sts) = 12 garter sts each side.
On next row bind off the middle 4 of these 12 sts for armhole and complete each piece separately.

Left front piece:
= 26-31-35-38 sts. Continue in stockinette sts with 4 sts in garter sts towards front edge and towards armhole. Bind off for armhole at side on beg of every row from side: 1 st 2-2-2-2 times = 24-29-33-36 sts (continue with 4 sts in garter sts towards armhole).
When piece measures 31-41-44-48 cm / 12 1/4"-16 1/8"-17 1/4"-19" knit 4 rows with garter sts over 12-13-14-15 sts toward front edge (remaining sts in stockinette sts).
On next row bind off 8-9-10-11 sts at front for neck, continue with 4 sts in garter sts towards front edge and bind off to shape the neckline in beg of every row from front: 1 st 4 times = 12-16-19-21 sts left on shoulder.
Bind off when piece measures 37-47-51-55 cm / 14½"-18"-20"-21 5/8".

Right front piece:
Like left front piece, but mirrored. Remember buttonholes on front band.

Back piece:
= 50-60-66-74 sts. Bind off for armhole each side as described for front piece = 45-56-62-70 sts. When piece measures 35-45-49-53 cm / 13 3/4"-17 3/4"-19 1/4"-21" knit 4 rows garter sts over the middle 30-32-32-36 sts (remaining sts in stockinette sts).
On next row bind off the middle 22-24-24-28 sts for neck = 12-16-19-21 sts left on each shoulder. Work each shoulder separate and continue with 4 sts in garter sts each side until piece measures 37-47-51-55 cm / 14½"-18"-20"-21 5/8" and then bind off.

Sew shoulder seams and sew on buttons.


Size: 6/12 months – 2/4 years
To fit head circumference: 42-46 cm / 16½"-18"

Cast on 90-100 sts on short circular needle size 3 mm / US 2½.
Knit 4 rows garter sts and continue in M.2. Knit 5-6 vertical repeats of M.2 and now insert a marker in the first st in each horizontal repeat = 9-10 markers. Knit 1 more vertical repeat of M.2 and dec on the rows marked with an arrow in the diagram.
Dec as follows: slip the st before the st with marker as if to knit, knit tog st with marker and the next st, psso. Repeat this dec in all horizontal repeats by the 3 arrows in diagram, i.e. a total dec of 54-60 sts = 36-40 sts left on needle. After the last round of M.2 knit 1 round in stockinette sts, at the same time knitting all sts tog 2 by 2 = 18-20 sts left. Cut the thread and pull through remaining sts. Sew tight.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = make a yo
symbols = slip 1 st as if to knit, K2 tog, psso.
symbols = indicate dec in hat pattern

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 10-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (124)

country flag Regina Bressani 06.06.2021 - 20:39:

Buonasera, sto iniziando il vestitino. Quanti giri a punto kegaccio? Su lavora tutti con i ferri n 3? Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 06.06.2021 kl. 22:35:

Buonasera Regina, deve lavorare con il numero di ferri che le consente di ottenere il campione indicato. Dopo l'avvio delle maglie deve lavorare il diagramma M.1 e poi M.2. Buon lavoro!

country flag Louise 15.05.2021 - 23:14:

In het patroon M2 moet ik een omslag maken. Ik begrijp dit niet want dit geeft toch een meerdering? hopelijk kunt U mij dit uitleggen

user icon DROPS Design 16.05.2021 kl. 12:08:

Dag Louise,

In patroon A.2 maak je inderdaad 2 omslagen op naald 5, 7 , 9 en 11, maar in diezelfde naalden minder je ook steken zoals aangegeven in het symbool met de omhoog wijzende driehoek, door 1 steek af te halen, 2 steken samen te breien en de afgehaalde steek over te halen. Hierdoor blijft het totaal aantal steken hetzelfde.

country flag Filomena 01.05.2021 - 11:24:

Grazie per aver risposto così velocemente.

country flag Filomena 01.05.2021 - 02:22:

Buongiorno vorrei sapere se 200 grammi indicati per la taglia 18 mesi di questo modello sono sufficienti oppure conviene comperare qualche gomitolo in più. Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 01.05.2021 kl. 11:21:

Buongiorno Filomena, se il suo campione corrisponde a quello indicato, la quantità di filato è corretta. Buon lavoro!

country flag Teresa Muto 28.04.2021 - 14:33:

Buongiorno, sto lavorando il vestitino misura12/18 mesi. Devo eseguire lo schema M.2 ma lasciando le 8 maglie di vivagno (4 per lato) poi per il diagramma mi ritrovo con una maglia in più infatti 199 - 8 = 191 e lo schema è su 10 maglie. Dove sbaglio? o c'è un errore nel numero di maglie? grazie

user icon DROPS Design 30.04.2021 kl. 20:46:

Buonasera Teresa, l'ultima maglia è lavorata come la prima maglia del diagramma. Buon lavoro!

country flag Teresa 22.04.2021 - 12:07:

Grazie per l'immediata risposta..ma dopo aver fatto le diminuzioni, sul ferro successivo come proseguo il diagramma M.2?mi trovo con delle maglie in meno

user icon DROPS Design 30.04.2021 kl. 21:09:

Buonasera Teresa, con le diminuzioni ci saranno meno maglie tra i gettati e i diagrammi si avvicineranno. Buon lavoro!

country flag Teresa 21.04.2021 - 17:23:

Salve, ma le diminuzioni su quali ferri devono essere fatte in M.2.? sui ferri dispari o su quelli pari...grazie

user icon DROPS Design 21.04.2021 kl. 18:38:

Buonasera Teresa, può diminuire sui ferri dispari. Buon lavoro!

country flag Ribault Martine 17.04.2021 - 13:21:

Bonjour, Est-ce qu'il est possible de ne réaliser uniquement le haut de la robe, donc le bustier pour y ajouter une jupe en tissu ? Si c'est réalisable comment dois-je m'y prendre ? Je travaillerai sur la taille 6/9 mois et 12/18 mois. Sinon est-ce qu'il existe un modèle de réalisation de bustier tricoté ou crocheté uniquement, afin d'y ajouter une jupe tissu dans un de vos modèles ? Si oui, je reste dans l'attente de vos indications. Merci pour votre réponse. Cdlt

user icon DROPS Design 19.04.2021 kl. 07:59:

Bonjour Mme Ribeault, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande et n'avons pas de modèle tricot/tissu. Votre magasin pourra probablement vous aider, même par mail ou téléphone, n'hésitez pas à le contacter; merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!

country flag Margarete Hoffmann 16.03.2021 - 11:26:

Wann stehen die Bilder der Striicksachen wieder zur Verfügung? Können Sie mir die Strickanleitung auch per Email schicken ? Vielen Dank vorab

user icon DROPS Design 16.03.2021 kl. 14:43:

Liebe Frau Hoffmann, Wir haben Probleme beim Laden von Bildern auf unserer Website und arbeiten daran, das Problem zu lösen. Wir hoffen, bald wieder normal zu sein! Danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis und Geduld.

country flag Helga 10.03.2021 - 15:34:

Hallo, ich hätte eine Frage. Muss ich zu Beginn gleich nach dem Maschenanschlag in der ersten Reihe mit rechts beginnen, oder kommt vorher eine Rückreihe mit links ?

user icon DROPS Design 10.03.2021 kl. 16:13:

Liebe Helga, für das Kleid stricken Sie bei der 1. Hinreihe die 1. Reihe in M.1 (= 1 Hinreihe rechts). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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