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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Alpaca 100% Alpaca |
from 5.30 $ /50g | Order | ||||||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | Order |
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
All measurements in charts are in cm.
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= K from RS, P from WS |
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= P from RS, K from WS |
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= put 2 st on cable needle behind the piece, K2, K2 from cable needle |
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 14-2) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Hola. Quisiera saber por q al final del patrón del cardigan dice que quedan 158 en el talle más grande y yo cuento solo 15 torsadas con sus respectivos 2 puntos a cada lado. No me da ese resultado. Me podrían aclarar. Gracias
30.05.2022 - 19:18DROPS Design answered:
Hola Emilita, al trabajar el canesú, tendrás 25 trenzas, sumando las trenzas del cuerpo y cada manga. Después de las disminuciones, tendremos 24 trenzas x6 pts (4 pts de la trenza y 2 pts de revés) + 10 pts de la cenefa + 4 pts de una trenza más. En total son 158 pts.
31.05.2022 kl. 17:52Hi.. I reached the Yoke section, I'm trying to put sleeves but it become very tight I could not continue. I don't know where is my mistake! :(
13.01.2021 - 11:14DROPS Design answered:
Dear Hessa, this video shows how to add sleeves on the same needle as back and front pieces, over the cast off stitches for armholes - the first rows might be somewhat tricky but after a few rows, it will work nicely. Happy knitting!
13.01.2021 kl. 12:28I am knitting the 2nd size. Yoke section: Do I knit the 6 rows and 0 decrease and THEN 4 rows 1 decrease 8x? Or do I leave the 6 rows out altogether and start decreasing in the 4th row
10.10.2020 - 18:33DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Venne, in 2nd size you work 3 or 4 rows (just make sure next row will be from RS) before working first decrease row, then decrease a total of 8 times on every 4th row + 2 times on every other row. Happy knitting!
12.10.2020 kl. 08:00Jeg strikker jakken i str.2/3 år og jeg forstår ikke hvordan ærmet strikkes, det kommer to eller tilogmed tre fletter ved siden av hverandre!??
09.08.2020 - 00:36DROPS Design answered:
Blessuð Gréta Ósk. Þú mátt ekki gleyma að prjóna eftir mynsturteikningu: STÆRÐ 2/3 ára: Mynstur M.2B (= 4 lykkjur), 2 lykkjur brugðið, mynstur M.2A yfir næstu 56 lykkjur, mynstur M.2B (= 4 lykkjur) og 2 lykkjur brugðið. Vona að þetta hjálpi. Gangið þér vel.
10.08.2020 kl. 16:11Estoy a la espera de tu respuesta.Muchas gracias
27.07.2020 - 16:46Buen dia.Quiero saber si este modelo lo encuentro en talle mas grande,Deseo tejerlo para 10 años,12, 14 etcLo teji en los que publicaron y les aseguro que las personas aman este diseño.Dime si no es posible como hago para lograr mi requerimiento.DAME UNA MANO !!!!!por favor Saludos y que estemos pronto todos muy bien Gracias
08.07.2020 - 12:47DROPS Design answered:
Hola Adela, no hacemos patrones personalizados. Para realizar este modelo para tallas más grandes tienes que hacer los cálculos necesarios. Para ello, puedes inspirarte en patrones de nuestra colección hechos para las tallas deseadas.
17.08.2020 kl. 20:17Hola. Disculpa que insista, pero cuando hago las repeticiones de M2A, en los 56 puntos termino con los 4 puntos de la trensa y despues se tejen los 6 puntos restantes que empiezan con los 4 puntos de la trensa y despues los 2 reveses. , entonces en ese momento es cuando termino con una trensa en los 56 puntos e inicio los 6 puntos que quedan con otra trensa (M2B). Ahi debo colocar MP para el aumento. he repetido esta parte mas de 4 veces y me sale lo mismo. Gracias por tu tiempo y paciencia.
22.11.2019 - 07:16DROPS Design answered:
Hola Maritza. M2A se termina con los puntos de revés y no con la trenza. Talla 2 años: M.2B (= 4 puntos/trenza) + 2 reveses, + M.2A (14 puntos x 4 repeticiones = 56 puntos/ la repetición termina con 10 puntos de revés) + M.2B (= 4 puntos/trenza) + 2 reveses.
15.12.2019 kl. 19:50Hola . Estoy tejiendo la chaqueta para 2 años, pero en las mangas no me calza el patrón M2B , 2R, M2A, M2B, 2R. ,con la cantidad de puntos, ya que me quedan 2 torsadas juntas al final. Después sale en las correcciones, que debo tejer en punto musgo pero cuantos cm.? y después debo seguir el patrón ?. Por favor ayúdame. Maritza
04.11.2019 - 21:39DROPS Design answered:
Hola Maritza. Primero se teje en redondo en punto musgo 5 cm ( ver las explicaciones en el patrón). Después continuar para la talla 2 años como sigue, M.2B (= 4 pts), 2r, M.2A sobre los 56 pts sig, es decir, 5 repeticiones completas de M.2A más los 6 primeros puntos del diagrama (= 4 puntos de la trenza más 2 reveses), M.2B (= 4 pts), 2r. Entre las trenzas hay 2 reveses. Según el patrón no hay 2 trenzas juntas.
10.11.2019 kl. 18:00Hej. Jag har tänkt att sticka vantar. Det ser ut som att det är stickad i aviga, men i mönstret står det rätstickning. Vänder man den ut och in sedan... eller? Det står inget om det i mönstret.
24.09.2019 - 09:18DROPS Design answered:
Hej. Du stickar rätstickning i 2 cm och efter det resår. Efter resåren stickar du ett varv räta samtidigt som du ökar antalet maskor. Sedan börjar du sticka aviga m och du börjar då också på diagram M.3. Lycka till!
24.09.2019 kl. 11:47Thankyou for this lovely pattern. How can I use this pattern for a 5 -year old ? How do I calculate the increase in stitches? Thankyou.
14.06.2019 - 10:28DROPS Design answered:
Dear Gana, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request. You can take inspiration from a pattern with round yoke with same tension you'd like to use - for any further individual assistance please contact the store where you bought the yarn. Happy knitting!
14.06.2019 kl. 10:57