DROPS Baby / 13 / 16

Flora by DROPS Design

DROPS Jacket and hat in Alpaca

  • Flora / DROPS Baby 13-16 - DROPS Jacket and hat in Alpaca
  • Flora / DROPS Baby 13-16 - DROPS Jacket and hat in Alpaca
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 –3/4 years)

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
Jacket and hat:
150-150-150 (200-200) g color no 3140, baby pink
150-150-150 (200-200) g color no 3720, pink
+ a remnant of no 0100, off-white for flower attachment
and use: DROPS Cotton Viscose from Garnstudio
a remnant of color no 02, off-white for flower attachment

DROPS circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 (for hat)
DROPS crochet hook size 4.5 mm/ US 7 (for hat)

DROPS wooden button, no 501, 3 pcs


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100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JACKET:
Knitting gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows with double strand on needle size 5 mm / US 8 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows

The jacket is knitted sideways from sleeve edge to mid back – knit back and forth on circular needle.

Left sleeve, front and back piece:
Loosely cast on 28-30-30 (30-32) sts (incl 1 edge st each side) with 1 strand baby pink and 1 strand pink Alpaca (double strand) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and knit garter sts.
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' insert a marker (measure piece from here for now on) and continue in stockinette sts.
When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' inc 1 st each side on every 3-2.5-2 (2.5-2.5) cm a total of 4-5-7 (8-9) times = 36-40-44 (46-50) sts.
When piece measures 18-19-20 (25-29) cm loosely cast on 33-35-40 (47-52) sts each side for front and back pieces = 102-110-124 (140-154) sts.
Insert a new marker in piece and measure piece from this point form now on.
Knit stockinette sts with the 6 outermost sts each side in garter sts (= edge at front and back pieces).
When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' from 2nd marker knit next row as follows from the wrong side: Knit 6 sts in garter sts, purl 45-49-56 (64-71) sts (= front piece), insert new marker and measure piece from this point form now on, bind off 3 sts, purl 42-46-53 (61-68) sts and 6 sts in garter sts (= back piece).
Keep the 48-52-59 (67-74) sts for back piece on needle and put the 51-55-62 (70-77) sts for front piece on a thread.
Knit 1 row from the right side. Turn the piece and bind off 1 st by purling tog the 2 outermost sts towards the neck.
Continue in stockinette sts with 6 sts in garter sts on lower edge until piece measures 6.5-8-10 11/12.5) cm – adjust so that next row will be worked from the wrong side. K2 rows over all sts and then bind off loosely with K sts from WS (= mid back).

Right sleeve, front and back piece:
Cast on and knit as left front, but mirrored.

Assembly:
Sew seam mid back – sew in the outer loops of sts so that seam doesn’t become too bulky – there will be approx 4 rows garter sts (= 2 ridges) mid back.

Front edge/collar:
Put the 51-55-62 (70-77) sts from right front piece back on needle, pick up approx 25 –45 sts along neck on back piece and put the 51-55-62 (70-77) sts from left front piece on needle = 127 – 199 sts.
Knit 1 row from the wrong side, at the same time increasing number of sts to 147-159-183 (207-231) – do not inc over the outermost 6 sts each side.
Knit 1 row and continue in Rib as follows (1st row = wrong side): 6 sts in garter sts, *P3, K3*, repeat from *-* and finish with P3 and 6 sts in garter sts (seen from the right side there will be 3 sts in stockinette sts next to the 6 garter sts).
Insert a marker by each shoulder.
When Rib measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' inc all P3 between the markers (= neck back piece) to P4. When Rib measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' inc the P4 between markers to P5.
When Rib measures 9-10-13 (14-16) cm make 3 buttonholes evenly distributed on right front edge – the lower buttonhole should be 8-10 cm from bottom edge and the top one 18-20 cm from shoulder.
Make buttonhole as follows from the right side: Purl 1 st, yo, P2 tog. Knit yo on next row.
Bind off loosely in rib when Rib measures 11-12-15 (16-18) cm.

Sew side and sleeve seams within 1 edge st. Sew the last 4 cm / 1½'' towards sleeve edge with seam inside out and fold edge towards the right side.
Sew on buttons.



HAT:
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 – 3/4 years)
To fit head circumference: 42/44 – 44/46 – 46/48 (48/50 – 50/52) cm

Knitting gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows with double strand on needle size 5 mm / US 8 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Increasing tips: Inc 1 st within 1 edge st by making a yo. Knit yo into back of sts on next row.

Earflap:
Cast on 4 sts with 1 strand baby pink and 1 strand pink Alpaca (double strand) on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8.
Knit back and forth on needle. At the same time after 2 rows inc 1 st each side on every other row – see Increasing tips – a total of 7-8-9 (10-11) times = 18-20-22 (24-26) sts. After the last inc piece measures approx 5-5-6 (6-7) cm.
Put sts on a holder and make another earflap.

Hat:
Cast on 6-6-5 (5-4) sts, put 1 earflap in on needle (=18-20-22 (24-26) sts, cast on 17-18-18 (19-20) sts (=front), put the other earflap in on needle (=18-20-22 (24-26) sts) and cast on 6-6-5 (5-4) sts = a total of 65-70-72 (77-80) sts.
Distribute sts on double pointed needles.
nit 1 round and purl 1 round and continue in stockinette sts.
When piece measures 7-8-9 (11-13) cm from where the earflaps were put on needle insert 5-5-6 (7-8) markers with 13-14-12 (11-10) sts between each.
Now dec to the left of each marker by knitting tog 2 sts on every other row (= 5-5-6 (7-8) decreases per round) a total of 11-12-11 (10-9) times = 10-10-6 (7-8) sts left on needles.
After the last dec knit tog all sts 2 and 2 and pull the yarn through remaining 5-5-3 (4-4)sts.
Hat measures approx 17-18-19 (21-21) cm.

Crochet border:
rochet a border round the opening of the hat with 1 strand baby pink and 1 strand pink Alpaca (double strand) and crochet hook size 4.5mm/US 7 as follows:
1 sc in first st, *2 ch, skip approx 1.5 cm, 1 sc in next st*, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in 1st sc.

Crochet flower:
Ch 4 with 1 strand of off-white Alpaca and 1 strand off-white Cotton Viscose and make a ring with a sl st in 1st ch.
1st round: ch 3 (= 1 dc), crochet 13 dc around the ring and finish with a sl st in the 3rd ch from beginning of round = 14 dc.
2nd round: *ch 4, 1 dc in the 1st of the ch 4, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in the next st*, repeat from *-* a total of 7 times and finish with a sl st in sl st from beginning of previous round (instead of 1 sc in next st) = 7 leaves, cut the yarn.
Crochet another flower and attach to each earflap.


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SOFT TOY: see pattern 13-33
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Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 13-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Anastasija 15.10.2019 - 10:51:

Hei, Hvis jeg ønsker å strikke den jakke i str 5 år (110cm), hvor mange m må jeg legg opp? Takk

user icon DROPS Design 16.10.2019 kl. 15:15:

Hej, Jakken er strikket fra side til side, så vil du have den større i omkreds, kan du lægge til ønsket antal cm. Vi kan desværre ikke hjælpe til med at regne opskriften om. God fornøjelse!

country flag Anna 15.11.2018 - 15:15:

Ich habe noch eine Frage zur Mütze: wenn ich die Ohrenklappen stricke, muss ich jedes Mal den Faden abschneiden? Ich habe beide Klappen fertig und überlege, wie ich nun die restlichen Maschen aufnehmen kann, ohne ständig den Strickfaden kappen zu müssen. Die ersten kann ich ja herausstricken aber wie nehme ich nach der ersten Klappe die nächsten Maschen auf? Danke!

user icon DROPS Design 16.11.2018 kl. 08:14:

Liebe Anna, am Ende beide Ohrenklappe sollen Sie den Faden abschneiden, dann stricken Sie die Mütze weiter: neue Maschen anschlagen, die stillgelegten Maschen der 1. Ohrenklappe stricken, die neuen Maschen für das Vorderteil der Mütze anschlagen, die stillgelegten Maschen der 2. Ohrenklappe stricken, und die letzten Maschen noch anschlagen - alle Maschen werden jetzt auf das Nadelspiel verteilt und weiter in Runden gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Anna 24.10.2018 - 10:52:

Guten Tag, kann ich die Mütze mit einem Faden Alpaka und einem Faden Baby Merino stricken? Beide sind ja in der gleichen Garngruppe... Danke

user icon DROPS Design 24.10.2018 kl. 15:42:

Liebe Anna, ja genau, Baby Merino und Alpaca gehören der gleichen Garngruppe, so können Sie mit je 1 Faden jedem Garn stricken, anstatt 2 Fäden Alpaca. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Alie De Graaf 11.11.2014 - 22:24:

Ik wil alleen de muts maken. Kunt u aangeven hoeveel Drops Alpaca ik nodig heb voor het maken van de muts?

user icon DROPS Design 12.11.2014 kl. 11:55:

Hoi Alie. Ik verwacht dat je prima uitkomt met 50 gr van elke kleur voor alle maten.

country flag Michaela 09.01.2014 - 10:35:

Total süss die Kombination, habe ich mir vorgemerkt

Lamontagne J. 20.11.2012 - 05:16:

Je voudrais savoir lorsque nous terminons le 1e coté dos de la veste ,devons-nous rabattre les 73 mailles? Deplus à l'assemblage d'où viennent les 4 rangs au point mousse? Merci

user icon DROPS Design 20.11.2012 kl. 09:41:

Bonjour Madame Lamontagne, une phrase manquait avant la fin du 1er côté de la veste, vous devez tricoter 2 rangs point mousse et rabattre à l'end sur l'envers les mailles du milieu dos. Vous aurez ainsi les 4 rangs point mousse (= 2 côtes mousse) au milieu dos lors de l'assemblage. Bon tricot !

country flag Drops Design France 04.06.2011 - 10:24:

Tout à fait merci Herpin, la correction a été faite.

country flag Herpin 04.06.2011 - 07:56:

B13/b16 il y a une erreur dans la traduction, ce qui fait qu'il y a marqué monter 3m au lieu de rabattre 3m. J'ai compris en prenant la traduction en anglais

jessica mattsson 15.03.2006 - 19:36:

Jättefin kofta med en härlig mössa till. Gör jag gärna.

Gunilla 15.03.2006 - 13:20:

Annorlunda och mysig, ser mjuk o go ut, fin. En favorit.

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