DROPS Daisy
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

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Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Red Sunrise

Knitted sweater in DROPS Daisy. The piece is worked top down with raglan, relief-pattern, split in sides and I-cord. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 248-10

#redsunrisesweater

DROPS Design: Pattern da-003
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-104-112-122-132-144 cm = 37¾"-41"-44"-48"-52"-56½"
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS DAISY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-800 g color 20, red

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm = 32" circular needle in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Women Jumpers Basic Jumpers assembly free raglan relief round neck top down

DROPS Daisy
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.

I-CORD:
FIRST 2 STITCHES:
Worked as follows on every row: Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front, knit 1.
LAST 2 STITCHES:
Worked as follows on every row: Work until there are 2 stitches left on the row, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front, knit 1.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next round to avoid a hole.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch before/after A.1, in each transition between body and sleeves.
Increase by making 1 yarn over, which is worked as follows on the next round. The new stitches are then worked in stockinette stitch.
BEFORE A.1:
Slip the yarn-over off the left needle and replace it the other way round (insert the left needle through the back when replacing it). Knit the front loop. No hole.
AFTER A.1:
Knit the back loop, no hole.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for sides of body):
Decrease on each side of the body, on both sides of the stockinette stitch section between A.1 on the front and back pieces:
Begin straight after A.1 on the front piece, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, work until there are 2 stitches left before the next A.1, knit 2 together.
Repeat on the other side of the body (4 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The pattern uses both long and short circular needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from back right shoulder, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round while the sleeves wait. The body is divided for the split in each side and the front and back pieces finished separately, back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round.

NECK:
Cast on 108-112-116-124-128-132 stitches with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and DROPS Daisy. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (purl 1, knit 1) in the round for 4 cm = 1½".
Insert 1 marker. The yoke is measured from here.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Work as follows from back right shoulder: Work 21 stockinette stitches and increase 2-2-2-4-4-4 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP (sleeve), work A.1, 15-17-19-19-21-23 stockinette stitches and increase 0-0-0-2-2-4 stitches evenly over these stitches, work A.1 (front piece), 21 stockinette stitches and increase 2-2-2-4-4-4 stitches evenly over these stitches (sleeve), work A.1, 15-17-19-19-21-23 stockinette stitches and increase 0-0-0-2-2-4 stitches evenly over these stitches, work A.1 = 112-116-120-136-140-148 stitches.
Continue this pattern in the round and at the same time begin to increase for RAGLAN – read description above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Increase for raglan after/before A.1 in each transition between the body and sleeves (8 increased stitches) every 2nd round a total of 5-6-10-13-12-11 times = 152-164-200-240-236-236 stitches.

Continue increasing for raglan, but every 2nd increase is only on the front and back pieces, i.e., increase on the front and back pieces every 2nd round and on the sleeves every 4th round (alternately 4 and 8 stitches increased). Increase like this 24-26-24-22-26-30 times on the front and back pieces (12-13-12-11-13-15 times on the sleeves).
After the last increase there are 296-320-344-372-392-416 stitches and the yoke measures approx. 21-23-24-25-27-29 cm = 8¼"-9"-9½"-9¾"-10⅝"-11⅜" from the marker.

Now divide for the body and sleeves: Place the first 57-61-67-73-75-77 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve (these are the stitches between A.1 on the back piece and A.1 on the front piece), cast on 10-10-12-16-18-20 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 91-99-105-113-121-131 stitches as before (front piece), place the next 57-61-67-73-75-77 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-16-18-20 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 91-99-105-113-121-131 stitches as before (back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here.

BODY:
= 202-218-234-258-278-302 stitches. Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-16-18-20 cast-on stitches under each sleeve. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used to mark the split in each side.
Work stockinette stitch in the round, continuing A.1 on the front and back pieces and working the 10-10-12-16-18-20 cast-on stitches under each sleeve in stockinette stitch.
When the body measures 6 cm = 2⅜" from the division, decrease 2 stitches on each side – read DECREASE TIP-1. Repeat the decrease when the body measures 12 cm = 4¾" = 194-210-226-250-270-294 stitches.
Work until the body measures 20-20-20-21-21-21 cm = 8"-8"-8"-8¼"-8¼"-8¼" from the division. Now divide at each marker-thread and finish each piece separately.

FRONT PIECE:
= 97-105-113-125-135-147 stitches. Work 1 row as before from the right side and increase 2-2-3-3-4-5 stitches on each side between the marker-threads and A.1 and 16-18-18-20-18-20 stitches evenly between each A.1 = 117-127-137-151-161-177 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5.
Work as follows from the wrong side: 2 edge stitches in I-CORD – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 1, 2 edge stitches in I-cord. Continue this rib back and forth for 6 cm = 2⅜". Bind off.
The sweater measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜" from the shoulder.

BACK PIECE:
Work in the same way as the front piece.

SLEEVES:
Place the 57-61-67-73-75-77 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-16-18-20 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 67-71-79-89-93-97 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-16-18-20 stitches under the sleeve. Start at the marker-thread and work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-3-2-2 cm = 1½"-1½"-1½"-1⅛"-¾"-¾" from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 7-5½-3½-2½-2½-2 cm = 2¾"-2⅛"-1¼"-1"-1"-¾" a total of 5-6-9-13-14-15 times = 57-59-61-63-65-67 stitches.
Work until the sleeve measures 39-37-38-37-36-34 cm = 15¼"-14½"-15"-14½"-14¼"-13⅜" from the division. There is 6 cm = 2⅜" left. Try the sweater on and work to desired length before the rib.
Knit 1 round and increase 11-11-13-13-13-13 stitches evenly spaced = 68-70-74-76-78-80 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 6 cm = 2⅜". Bind off. The sleeve measures approx. 45-43-44-43-42-40 cm = 17¾"-17"-17¼"-17"-16½"-15¾" from the division.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit
	= purl

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #redsunrisesweater or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Comments / Questions (15)

Petra wrote:

Hej jag har stickat fram till där jag ska dela upp till ärmar och fram/ bakstycke. Det står att jag ska sätta 57 maskor på tråden, men jag har bara 49 maskor mellan A1 och A1.(15+10+24) På fram/bakstycket har jag då 99 maskor istället för 91. (23+10+48) +18 för A1. Vet inte var jag gjort fel??

13.10.2024 - 17:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Petra. Usikker på hvor det er blitt feil hos deg, mulig du ikke har fått med deg alle økningene / økt på feil sted. Når alle økningene er gjort skal du ha 57 masker på hvert erme (21+2 +5+5+12+12) + 73 masker (15+5+5+24+24) på hvert av for/bakstykket + A.1 ermene (4 x 9) = 57+57+73+73+9+9+9+9=296 masker. mvh DROPS Design

22.10.2024 - 11:23

Andrine wrote:

Jeg har lyst til å strikke denne i DROPS Kid-Silk + DROPS Soft Tweed. Da blir det garngruppe C. Kan jeg endre pinnestørrelse og/eller antall masker for at det skal bli riktig i oppskriften?

26.05.2024 - 21:53

Hei Andrine, Hvis du bruker tykkere garn (fra garngruppe B til C) vil du trenge å justere pinnestørrelsen ned fram til du får riktig antall masker og rader på prøvelappen 10 x 10 cm. Da kan du bruker oppskriften uten videre justeringer. Lykke til!

27.05.2024 - 06:43

Gaby wrote:

Frage hat sich erledigt. Sorry

07.04.2024 - 23:58

Liebes Drops-Team Leider habe ich bereits in der 1. Runde der Anleitung ein Problem. Auf der Nadel sind 108 Maschen. Ich soll 21 Maschen für das Rückenteil stricken, 15 für den Ärmel, 21 für das Vorderteil und wieder 15 für den anderen Ärmel. Das wären ( ohne Zunahmen) 72 Maschen. Was passiert mit den restlichen Maschen?

07.04.2024 - 01:45

Liebe Gaby, so stricken Sie: 21 M glatt rechts (+ 2 M), A.1 (= 9 M), 15 M glatt rechts, A.1 (9 M), 21 M glatt rechts (+ 2 M), A.1 (= 9 M), 15 M glatt rechts, A.1 (=9 M), 15 M glatt rechts, A.1 (= 9 M) = 21+9+15+9+21+9+15+9 (+2+2)= 108 Maschen (+4 Zunahmen = 112 Maschen). Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

08.04.2024 - 08:08

Pascale wrote:

Bonjour, comment répartir les jetés d'augmentation pour le devant et dos, sur la taille M, soit sur les 21 mailles. Je recommence pour la xème fois car c'est visible. Or sur la photo, on ne voit pas les augmentations. Quelque chose m'échappe et mes jetés même torses font des trous... J'ai l'impression de redevenir débutante. Merci de m'indique où répartir les augm (quelles mailles) et comment continuer sur les rangs suivants. Cordialement, P

27.03.2024 - 09:09

Bonjour Pascale, vous pouvez utiliser la technique que vous préférez pour augmenter à intervalles réguliers, ce n'est pas important, ce qui compte c'est que le résultat vous convienne; dans cette leçon, nous expliquons comment augmenter à intervalles réguliers. Bon tricot!

02.04.2024 - 10:48

Suusdr wrote:

Is het begin van de toer in de pas niet de rechterschouder voor? Of zijn de 21 steken de mouw en de 15 steken het pand?

26.03.2024 - 20:30

Dag Suusdr,

Ja, de 21 steken zijn voor de mouw en de 15 steken zijn voor het pand. Op de afbeelding kun je ook zien dat er bij de hals meer tricotsteken op de mouw zitten en minder op de panden.

27.03.2024 - 12:17

Typhaine wrote:

Bonjour, Je m'interroge sur la division du tricot à la fin de l'empiecement. J'ai bien 320 mailles (taille M) : 89 devant/dos, 53 par manche et 4 fois le motif A1 de 9 mailles. Comment dois-je les diviser ? Je n'arrive pas à retomber sur les valeurs annoncées par le modèle. Par avance, merci.

07.03.2024 - 20:59

Bonjour Typhaine, vous devez avoir 61 mailles pour chaque manche (21+2 augmentations + 6 fois 2 m pour le raglan tous les 2 tours + 13 fois 2 m pour le raglan tous les 4 tours = 61 mailles). Et 99 mailles pour le dos/le devant (17 mailles + 6 fois 2 m pour le raglan tous les 2 tours + 26 fois 2 m pour le raglan tous les 2 tours = 81 mailles + les 9 mailles de A.1 avant/après ces 81 mailles = 99 mailles pour le devant/le dos -soit 61x2 + 81x2 + 9x4=320 mailles. Bon tricot!

08.03.2024 - 08:24

Mayola wrote:

Bonjour comment doit on tricoter les augmentations raglan dans A1 ((faut il suivre le motif du diagramme) ? Merci de votre retour

25.02.2024 - 17:41

Bonjour Mayola, on ne va pas augmenter le nombre de mailles tricotées en A.1 car ce sont les mailles des raglans, les augmentations faites avant et/ou après A.1 se tricotent en jersey, cf RAGLAN au début des explications. Bon tricot!

26.02.2024 - 09:32

Davina wrote:

When increasing on the 21sts for the yoke, do we carry on increasing these 2 sts on the next rounds, or is this only for the first round. Thank you

23.02.2024 - 18:44

Dear Davina, these increases are worked only on the first round on yoke; then you will only increase for raglan before/after A.1. Happy knitting !

26.02.2024 - 07:19

Debora wrote:

Buonasera, nella spiegazione del collo non manca la parte a coste? Bel modello, grazie

11.02.2024 - 23:51

Buonasera Debora, grazie per la segnalazione: abbiamo aggiornato il modello. Buon lavoro!

13.02.2024 - 21:52

Red Sunrise

Knitted sweater in DROPS Daisy. The piece is worked top down with raglan, relief-pattern, split in sides and I-cord. Sizes S - XXXL.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a sweater top down

How to read a schematic drawing

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure your tension/gauge

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn!

How to cast on

How to knitt stitches

How to purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Comments / Questions (15)

Red Sunrise

Knitted sweater in DROPS Daisy. The piece is worked top down with raglan, relief-pattern, split in sides and I-cord. Sizes S - XXXL.

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	DROPS Daisy uni colour 100% Wool	4.55 $ /50g	Order
	DROPS Daisy mix 100% Wool	4.55 $ /50g	Order

	DROPS Daisy uni colour 100% Wool 4.55 $ /50g Order
	DROPS Daisy mix 100% Wool 4.55 $ /50g Order