Mushroom Season Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked top down with double neck, round yoke, colored pattern with fungi and berries and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

Keywords: assembly free, christmas, colorwork, double neck, long sleeves, round neck, round yoke, stocking stitch, sweater, top down

DROPS 245-11
DROPS Design: Pattern u-969
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-104-112-122-134-146 cm = 37 3/4"-41"-44"-48"-52 3/4"-57 3/8"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-650-700-750-850 g color 85, light beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 45, light olive
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 48, wine red
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 55, light beige brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 87, moss green

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm = 32” circular needle in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
100% Wool

from 3.00 $ /50g

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	DROPS Karisma uni colour	3.00 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order
	DROPS Karisma mix	3.00 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

ELEVATION:
To make the sweater slightly higher at the back of the neck, you can work an elevation as described here. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Start from the right side and knit 16-17-18-19-20-21 stitches from the marker-thread at the beginning of the round, turn, tighten strand and purl 32-34-36-38-40-42 stitches back.
Turn, tighten strand and knit 48-51-54-57-60-63 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 64-68-72-76-80-84 stitches back.
Turn, tighten strand and knit 80-85-90-95-100-105 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 96-102-108-114-120-126 stitches back. Turn, tighten the strand and knit to marker-thread.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension losing its elasticity when working pattern it is important that
the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if
the piece becomes tight.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over which is worked twisted on the next row/round to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle as far as the split. Then the front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 110-114-118-122-128-132 stitches with color light beige DROPS Karisma, using short circular needles size 3 and 4.5 MM = US 7 held together. Remove the needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 keeping stitches on needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 (this gives you an elastic cast-on edge). Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 9 cm = 3 1/2".
Fold the neck double to the inside and work 1 more round of rib, working every 2nd stitch together with its corresponding stitch on the cast-on edge.
You now have a double neck.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7. Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round – allow it to follow your work onwards.
Knit 1 round and increase 26-28-30-32-36-40 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 136-142-148-154-164-172 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the round (mid-front), the yoke is measured from this marker.
You can now work an ELEVATION mid-back. If you do not want an elevation, continue as described below.
Work stockinette stitch in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When there are 2 rounds left before the yoke measures 4-5-5-6-6-7 cm = 1 1/2"-2"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/4" from the marker, increase 40-42-44-46-52-52 stitches evenly spaced on the first round = 176-184-192-200-216-224 stitches. After the 2 rounds, work pattern at the same time continue increasing as explained below – read KNITTING TIP and PATTERN above.

A.1:
Work A.1 a total of 22-23-24-25-27-28 times around the yoke.
AT THE SAME TIME, on each round with an arrow in the diagram, increase as follows:
ARROW-1: Increase 40-48-48-48-56-56 stitches evenly spaced = 216-232-240-248-272-280 stitches.
ARROW-2: Increase 32-40-40-40-48-48 stitches evenly spaced = 248-272-280-288-320-328 stitches.
ARROW-3: Increase 24-24-32-32-32-40 stitches evenly spaced = 272-296-312-320-352-368 stitches.
ARROW-4: Increase 16-16-24-24-24-32 stitches evenly spaced = 288-312-336-344-376-400 stitches.
ARROW-5: Increase 4-4-12-4-4-12 stitches evenly spaced = 292-316-348-348-380-412 stitches.

When A.1 is finished, continue with stockinette stitch and color light beige until the yoke measures 21-23-24-25-27-29 cm = 8 1/4"-9"-9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8" from the marker.

DIVISION FOR BODY AND SLEEVE:
Divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Knit 44-48-52-53-59-65 (half back piece), place the next 58-62-70-68-72-76 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-16-16-16 stitches (in side under sleeve), knit 88-96-104-106-118-130 (front piece), place the next 58-62-70-68-72-76 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-16-16-16 stitches (in side under sleeve), knit the last 44-48-52-53-59-65 stitches (half back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here.

BODY:
= 192-208-224-244-268-292 stitches. Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-16-16-16 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when dividing for the split in each side. Work stockinette stitch in the round, using color light beige, for a further 22-22-23-24-24-24 cm = 8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2"-9 1/2"-9 1/2". Now divide the piece at each marker-thread and finish the back and front separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 96-104-112-122-134-146 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 25-27-29-33-35-39 stitches evenly spaced = 121-131-141-155-169-185 stitches.
Work the next row from the wrong side as follows: 1 GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 6 cm = 2 3/8". Bind off a little loosely. The sweater measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder.

FRONT PIECE:
= 96-104-112-122-134-146 stitches. Work in the same way as the back piece

SLEEVES:
Place the 58-62-70-68-72-76 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4.5 MM = US 7 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 66-70-78-84-88-92 stitches. Insert a marker-thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-16-16-16 stitches under the sleeve with colour light beige. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards, it is used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Start at the marker-thread and work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-3-3-3 cm = 1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid-under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5½-4½-3-2½-2-2 cm = 2 1/8"-1 5/8"-1 1/8"-1"-3/4"-3/4" a total of 6-7-10-12-13-14 times = 54-56-58-60-62-64 stitches. Work until the sleeve measures 36-34-34-33-32-30 cm = 14 1/4"-13 3/8"-13 3/8"-13"-12 1/2"-11 3/4" from the division (or to desired length. There is approx. 8 cm = 3 1/8" left).
Change to double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5. Knit 1 round and increase 20-22-22-24-24-26 stitches evenly spaced = 74-78-80-84-86-90 stitches. Work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 8 cm = 3 1/8". Bind off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 44-42-42-41-40-38 cm = 17 1/4"-16 1/2"-16 1/2"-16 1/8"-15 3/4"-15" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= light beige
	= light beige brown
	= wine red
	= moss green
	= light olive
	= increase round

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 245-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

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