DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 76.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Forest Trails Cardigan

Knitted jacket in 4 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with moss stitch, double neck, raglan and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 244-3
DROPS Design: Pattern ks-212
Yarn group A + A + A + A or E
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 102-110-116-124-136-150 cm = 40"-43⅜"-45¾"-48¾"-53½"-59"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-125-125-125 g color 19, dark green
100-100-100-125-125-125 g color 31, mauve
100-100-100-125-125-125 g color 35, chocolate
100-100-100-125-125-125 g color 37, north sea

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm = 32" circular needle in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
12 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with moss stitch (A.1) and 4 strands DROPS Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.75 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 76.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch before/after the 4 marker-stitches (raglan-stitches) by making 1 yarn over. The raglan-stitches are purled from the right side/knitted from the wrong side.
On the next row work the yarn overs twisted as described below, then work them into A.1.

Work the yarn overs from the wrong side before and after the raglan-stitches as follows:
BEFORE raglan-stitch:
Purl the yarn over twisted if the last stitch before the yarn over was knitted, or knit the
yarn over twisted if the last stitch before the yarn over should was purled, there should
be no hole.
AFTER raglan-stitch:
Slip the yarn over knit-wise, insert the left needle into the yarn over and place it back on the left needle (twisted), purl the yarn over if the next stitch is to be knitted or purl the
yarn over if the next stitch is to be purled, there should be no hole.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row/round work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.

DECREASE TIP (mid-under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch alternately before and after the marker-stitch by knitting/purling 2 together (depending on how the last/next stitch in A.1 is worked).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the neck. Then work the other 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8-8½-9-7½-8-8 cm = 3⅛"-3¼"-3½"-2⅞"-3⅛"-3⅛" between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid-front, then a neckline is worked with short rows. The yoke is continued back and forth, divided for body and sleeves and the body finished back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.
The neck is folded double and sewn down.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 69-73-75-79-81-87 stitches with circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and 1 strand of each color DROPS Kid-Silk (4 strands). Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work the next row as follows from the right side: 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm = 2"-2"-2"-2⅜"-2⅜"-2⅜".
Cast on 6 stitches at the end of the next 2 rows for the bands = 81-85-87-91-93-99 stitches.
Continue the rib but now with 7 band-stitches on each side, worked in garter stitch.
Work until the neck measures 10-10-10-12-12-12 cm = 4"-4"-4"-4¾"-4¾"-4¾" – with the next row from the right side.
Insert 4 markers as described below, without working the stitches. NOTE: Each marker is inserted in a purled stitch seen from the right side (hereafter called raglan-stitches).

Count 14-14-16-17-16-19 stitches (front piece), insert marker-1 in the next stitch, count 17-17-15-17-19-17 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-2 in the next stitch, count 15-19-21-19-19-23 stitches (back piece), insert marker-3 in the next stitch, count 17-17-15-17-19-17 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-4 in the next stitch. There are 14-14-16-17-16-19 stitches left after the last marker (front piece).

Knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 4-8-2-0-4-0 stitches evenly spaced as follows: Knit past marker-1, then decrease 2-2-0-0-2-0 stitches evenly between markers 1 and 2, decrease 0-4-2-0-0-0 stitches evenly between markers 2 and 3, decrease 2-2-0-0-2-0 stitches evenly between markers 3 and 4 and work to end of row (do not decrease the marker-stitches) = 77-77-85-91-89-99 stitches.
There are 15-15-15-17-17-17 stitches between markers 1 and 2 and markers 3 and 4 (sleeves) and 15-15-19-19-19-23 stitches between markers 2 and 3 (back piece).

NECKLINE:
Change to circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75, work short rows and AT THE SAME TIME increase for raglan as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE.
ROW 1 (wrong side): Work 7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (remembering to knit all raglan-stitches from the wrong side/purl them from the right side) until you have worked 2 stitches past marker-1 (i.e., front left side of neck when the garment is worn), turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for RAGLAN on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches – read description above, and until you have worked 2 stitches past marker-4 (front right of neck and 8 stitches increased), turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Work A.1 until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned by marker-1, turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 4 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches, and until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned by marker-4 (= 8 stitches increased), turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 5 (wrong side): Work A.1 until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned by marker-1, turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 6 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches and until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned by marker-4 (= 8 stitches increased), turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 7 (wrong side). Work A.1 to end of row (raglan-stitches are knitted from the wrong
side and the bands are knitted).

The short rows are finished and you have increased for raglan 3 times on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches = 101-101-109-115-113-123 stitches.
Continue working the yoke back and forth over all stitches as described below. REMEMBER THE BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.

YOKE:
Continue A.1 with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side, purling the raglan-stitches from the right side and knitting them from the wrong side. AT THE SAME TIME continue to increase for raglan as follows:

Increase for raglan every 2nd row (each row from the right side) but every 2nd increase is only on the front and back pieces, i.e., increase on the front/back pieces every 2nd row and on the sleeves every 4th row (alternately 4 and 8 increased stitches). Increase like this 12-14-18-18-20-20 times on the front/back pieces and 6-7-9-9-10-10 times on the sleeves = 173-185-217-223-233-243 stitches.
The increases on the sleeves are finished. Continue to increase on the front/back pieces 4-4-0-1-2-3 more times = 189-201-217-227-241-255 stitches.
All raglan increases are finished. Continue working without further increases until the yoke measures 19-21-22-22-25-26 cm = 7½"-8¼"-8¾"-8¾"-9¾"-10¼", measured after the neck mid-back.

Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 34-36-38-40-42-46 stitches as before (front piece), place the next 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 55-59-63-65-71-77 stitches (back piece), place the next 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 34-36-38-40-42-46 stitches (front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 137-145-153-163-177-195 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 7-7-7-9-11-13 cast-on stitches under each sleeve. Allow them to follow your work onwards – they are used when dividing for the split in each side.
Continue A.1 back and forth with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
When the body measures 21-21-22-23-22-23 cm = 8¼"-8¼"-8¾"-9"-8¾"-9" from the division, divide the piece at each marker and finish the front and back separately. The marker-stitches belong to the front pieces.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-40-42-44-48-52 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 9-9-9-11-11-13 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP (do not increase over the bands) = 47-49-51-55-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work as follows from the wrong side (from the side): 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, purl 1 and 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off. You can use Italian bind off – see video under Tips and Help on our web page. The piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" from the shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-40-42-44-48-52 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 9-9-9-11-11-13 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 47-49-51-55-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work as follows from the wrong side (from mid-front): 7 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off in the same way as on the left front piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 61-65-69-75-81-91 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 18-20-20-20-24-24 stitches evenly spaced = 79-85-89-95-105-115 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work as follows from the wrong side: 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off in the same way as on the front pieces.

SLEEVES:
Place the 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 7 MM = US 10.75 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7-7-7-9-11-13 new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 40-42-46-50-54-56 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker and continue A.1 in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-4-3-3 cm = 1½"-1½"-1½"-1½"-1⅛"-1⅛" from the division decrease 1 stitch before the marker – read DECREASE TIP. When the sleeve measures 12-12-8-6½-5-5 cm = 4¾"-4¾"-3⅛"-2½"-2"-2" from the division decrease 1 stitch after the marker – remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this, alternately before and after the marker, every 8-8-4-3-2-2 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-1½"-1⅛"-¾"-¾" a total of 4-4-8-10-14-14 times (2-2-4-5-7-7 times before the marker and 2-2-4-5-7-7 times after the marker) = 36-38-38-40-40-42 stitches. When the sleeve measures 37-35-35-36-34-32 cm = 14½"-13¾"-13¾"-14¼"-13⅜"-12½" from the division, knit 1 round and increase 14-14-16-16-18-18 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 10 cm = 4". Bind off. You can use Italian bind off. The sleeve measures approx. 47-45-45-46-44-42 cm = 18½"-17¾"-17¾"-18"-17¼"-16½" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight, it is important that the seam is elastic.
Sew together the opening on the bands mid-front, with small stitches.

Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (4)

country flag Pierrette wrote:

Existe-il l'explication en commençant par le bas.? ma fille m'a donné sa laine Duvetine de chez Bergere de France qui se tricote en 6/5 (Jersez) diagrame 12 m/17 rg. Avez vous un catalogue de fils, je réside a la frontière Espagnole! j'aime beaucoup vos modèles..Merci pour votre réponse ! Cordialement . Mme Perreau

25.03.2024 - 15:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Pierrette, ce gilet se tricote de haut en bas, en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire. On va augmenter pour le raglan, puis diviser l'ouvrage et terminer le bas du gilet (en allers et retours) et les manches (en rond) séparément. Retrouvez ici tous nos modèles de gilets et vestes tricotés de bas en haut, ajoutez des filtres pour affiner votre recherche. Bon tricot!

02.04.2024 - 09:40

country flag Jutta wrote:

For the knitting gage which needle size is used, 7 mm or 5.5?

28.01.2024 - 23:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jutta, the gauge is worked with the same needle that will be used for the specified pattern. The 5.5mm needles are only for the rib. A.1 is worked with the 7mm needles, so you will need to work the gauge with the 7mm needles. Happy knitting!

28.01.2024 - 23:23

country flag Birgit wrote:

Hallo Drops-Team, Beim Stricken (Größe M) des Ärmels sind laut Anleitung von 42 Maschen schrittweise 6 Maschen abzunehmen, es bleiben 38 Maschen übrig. Lese ich die Anleitung falsch oder hat sich ein Fehler eingeschlichen? Sollen insgesamt nur 4 Maschen abgenommen werden oder bleiben 36 übrig? Hat das Auswirkungen auf die Anzahl von Maschen (14), die fürs Bündchen zugenommen werden? VG, Birgit

31.10.2023 - 20:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Birgit, es wird jeweils nur 1 Masche abgenommen, das erste Mal am Ende der Runde (vor der Markierung), das 2. Mal nach der Markierung (am Anfang der Runde) und noch 2 Mal so - so haben Sie 42 M - 4 M abgenommen = sind dann 38 Maschen übrig. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.11.2023 - 15:03

country flag Asnate wrote:

Will try this cardigan! With nepal & air yarns ( I had them at home waiting for an autumn project) First time trying something with buttons :)

31.08.2023 - 16:38