Forest Trails Cardigan by DROPS Design
Knitted jacket in 4 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with moss stitch, double neck, raglan and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 244-3
DROPS Design: Pattern ks-212
Yarn group A + A + A + A or E
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 102-110-116-124-136-150 cm = 40"-43 3/8"-45 3/4"-48 3/4"-53 1/2"-59"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.
YARN:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-125-125-125 g color 19, dark green
100-100-100-125-125-125 g color 31, mauve
100-100-100-125-125-125 g color 35, chocolate
100-100-100-125-125-125 g color 37, north sea
BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm = 32” circular needle in each size.
KNITTING GAUGE:
12 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with moss stitch (A.1) and 4 strands DROPS Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS Design: Pattern ks-212
Yarn group A + A + A + A or E
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 102-110-116-124-136-150 cm = 40"-43 3/8"-45 3/4"-48 3/4"-53 1/2"-59"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.
YARN:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-125-125-125 g color 19, dark green
100-100-100-125-125-125 g color 31, mauve
100-100-100-125-125-125 g color 35, chocolate
100-100-100-125-125-125 g color 37, north sea
BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm = 32” circular needle in each size.
KNITTING GAUGE:
12 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with moss stitch (A.1) and 4 strands DROPS Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.
RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch before/after the 4 marker-stitches (raglan-stitches) by making 1 yarn over. The raglan-stitches are purled from the right side/knitted from the wrong side.
On the next row work the yarn overs twisted as described below, then work them into A.1.
Work the yarn overs from the wrong side before and after the raglan-stitches as follows:
BEFORE raglan-stitch:
Purl the yarn over twisted if the last stitch before the yarn over was knitted, or knit the
yarn over twisted if the last stitch before the yarn over should was purled, there should
be no hole.
AFTER raglan-stitch:
Slip the yarn over knit-wise, insert the left needle into the yarn over and place it back on the left needle (twisted), purl the yarn over if the next stitch is to be knitted or purl the
yarn over if the next stitch is to be purled, there should be no hole.
INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row/round work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.
DECREASE TIP (mid-under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch alternately before and after the marker-stitch by knitting/purling 2 together (depending on how the last/next stitch in A.1 is worked).
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the neck. Then work the other 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8-8½-9-7½-8-8 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/4"-3 1/2"-2 7/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" between each one.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid-front, then a neckline is worked with short rows. The yoke is continued back and forth, divided for body and sleeves and the body finished back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.
The neck is folded double and sewn down.
DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 69-73-75-79-81-87 stitches with circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and 1 strand of each color DROPS Kid-Silk (4 strands). Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work the next row as follows from the right side: 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm = 2"-2"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8".
Cast on 6 stitches at the end of the next 2 rows for the bands = 81-85-87-91-93-99 stitches.
Continue the rib but now with 7 band-stitches on each side, worked in garter stitch.
Work until the neck measures 10-10-10-12-12-12 cm = 4"-4"-4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4" – with the next row from the right side.
Insert 4 markers as described below, without working the stitches. NOTE: Each marker is inserted in a purled stitch seen from the right side (hereafter called raglan-stitches).
Count 14-14-16-17-16-19 stitches (front piece), insert marker-1 in the next stitch, count 17-17-15-17-19-17 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-2 in the next stitch, count 15-19-21-19-19-23 stitches (back piece), insert marker-3 in the next stitch, count 17-17-15-17-19-17 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-4 in the next stitch. There are 14-14-16-17-16-19 stitches left after the last marker (front piece).
Knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 4-8-2-0-4-0 stitches evenly spaced as follows: Knit past marker-1, then decrease 2-2-0-0-2-0 stitches evenly between markers 1 and 2, decrease 0-4-2-0-0-0 stitches evenly between markers 2 and 3, decrease 2-2-0-0-2-0 stitches evenly between markers 3 and 4 and work to end of row (do not decrease the marker-stitches) = 77-77-85-91-89-99 stitches.
There are 15-15-15-17-17-17 stitches between markers 1 and 2 and markers 3 and 4 (sleeves) and 15-15-19-19-19-23 stitches between markers 2 and 3 (back piece).
NECKLINE:
Change to circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75, work short rows and AT THE SAME TIME increase for raglan as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE.
ROW 1 (wrong side): Work 7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (remembering to knit all raglan-stitches from the wrong side/purl them from the right side) until you have worked 2 stitches past marker-1 (i.e., front left side of neck when the garment is worn), turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for RAGLAN on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches – read description above, and until you have worked 2 stitches past marker-4 (front right of neck and 8 stitches increased), turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Work A.1 until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned by marker-1, turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 4 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches, and until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned by marker-4 (= 8 stitches increased), turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 5 (wrong side): Work A.1 until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned by marker-1, turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 6 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches and until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned by marker-4 (= 8 stitches increased), turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 7 (wrong side). Work A.1 to end of row (raglan-stitches are knitted from the wrong
side and the bands are knitted).
The short rows are finished and you have increased for raglan 3 times on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches = 101-101-109-115-113-123 stitches.
Continue working the yoke back and forth over all stitches as described below. REMEMBER THE BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
YOKE:
Continue A.1 with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side, purling the raglan-stitches from the right side and knitting them from the wrong side. AT THE SAME TIME continue to increase for raglan as follows:
Increase for raglan every 2nd row (each row from the right side) but every 2nd increase is only on the front and back pieces, i.e., increase on the front/back pieces every 2nd row and on the sleeves every 4th row (alternately 4 and 8 increased stitches). Increase like this 12-14-18-18-20-20 times on the front/back pieces and 6-7-9-9-10-10 times on the sleeves = 173-185-217-223-233-243 stitches.
The increases on the sleeves are finished. Continue to increase on the front/back pieces 4-4-0-1-2-3 more times = 189-201-217-227-241-255 stitches.
All raglan increases are finished. Continue working without further increases until the yoke measures 19-21-22-22-25-26 cm = 7 1/2"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4", measured after the neck mid-back.
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 34-36-38-40-42-46 stitches as before (front piece), place the next 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 55-59-63-65-71-77 stitches (back piece), place the next 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 34-36-38-40-42-46 stitches (front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!
BODY:
= 137-145-153-163-177-195 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 7-7-7-9-11-13 cast-on stitches under each sleeve. Allow them to follow your work onwards – they are used when dividing for the split in each side.
Continue A.1 back and forth with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
When the body measures 21-21-22-23-22-23 cm = 8 1/4"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-8 3/4"-9" from the division, divide the piece at each marker and finish the front and back separately. The marker-stitches belong to the front pieces.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-40-42-44-48-52 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 9-9-9-11-11-13 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP (do not increase over the bands) = 47-49-51-55-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work as follows from the wrong side (from the side): 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, purl 1 and 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm = 3 1/8". Bind off. You can use Italian bind off – see video under Tips and Help on our web page. The piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-40-42-44-48-52 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 9-9-9-11-11-13 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 47-49-51-55-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work as follows from the wrong side (from mid-front): 7 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm = 3 1/8". Bind off in the same way as on the left front piece.
BACK PIECE:
= 61-65-69-75-81-91 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 18-20-20-20-24-24 stitches evenly spaced = 79-85-89-95-105-115 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work as follows from the wrong side: 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm = 3 1/8". Bind off in the same way as on the front pieces.
SLEEVES:
Place the 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 7 MM = US 10.75 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7-7-7-9-11-13 new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 40-42-46-50-54-56 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker and continue A.1 in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-4-3-3 cm = 1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" from the division decrease 1 stitch before the marker – read DECREASE TIP. When the sleeve measures 12-12-8-6½-5-5 cm = 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-3 1/8"-2 1/2"-2"-2" from the division decrease 1 stitch after the marker – remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this, alternately before and after the marker, every 8-8-4-3-2-2 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4" a total of 4-4-8-10-14-14 times (2-2-4-5-7-7 times before the marker and 2-2-4-5-7-7 times after the marker) = 36-38-38-40-40-42 stitches. When the sleeve measures 37-35-35-36-34-32 cm = 14 1/2"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-13 3/8"-12 1/2" from the division, knit 1 round and increase 14-14-16-16-18-18 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 10 cm = 4”. Bind off. You can use Italian bind off. The sleeve measures approx. 47-45-45-46-44-42 cm = 18 1/2"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-18"-17 1/4"-16 1/2" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight, it is important that the seam is elastic.
Sew together the opening on the bands mid-front, with small stitches.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.
RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch before/after the 4 marker-stitches (raglan-stitches) by making 1 yarn over. The raglan-stitches are purled from the right side/knitted from the wrong side.
On the next row work the yarn overs twisted as described below, then work them into A.1.
Work the yarn overs from the wrong side before and after the raglan-stitches as follows:
BEFORE raglan-stitch:
Purl the yarn over twisted if the last stitch before the yarn over was knitted, or knit the
yarn over twisted if the last stitch before the yarn over should was purled, there should
be no hole.
AFTER raglan-stitch:
Slip the yarn over knit-wise, insert the left needle into the yarn over and place it back on the left needle (twisted), purl the yarn over if the next stitch is to be knitted or purl the
yarn over if the next stitch is to be purled, there should be no hole.
INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row/round work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.
DECREASE TIP (mid-under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch alternately before and after the marker-stitch by knitting/purling 2 together (depending on how the last/next stitch in A.1 is worked).
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the neck. Then work the other 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8-8½-9-7½-8-8 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/4"-3 1/2"-2 7/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" between each one.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid-front, then a neckline is worked with short rows. The yoke is continued back and forth, divided for body and sleeves and the body finished back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.
The neck is folded double and sewn down.
DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 69-73-75-79-81-87 stitches with circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and 1 strand of each color DROPS Kid-Silk (4 strands). Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work the next row as follows from the right side: 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm = 2"-2"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8".
Cast on 6 stitches at the end of the next 2 rows for the bands = 81-85-87-91-93-99 stitches.
Continue the rib but now with 7 band-stitches on each side, worked in garter stitch.
Work until the neck measures 10-10-10-12-12-12 cm = 4"-4"-4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4" – with the next row from the right side.
Insert 4 markers as described below, without working the stitches. NOTE: Each marker is inserted in a purled stitch seen from the right side (hereafter called raglan-stitches).
Count 14-14-16-17-16-19 stitches (front piece), insert marker-1 in the next stitch, count 17-17-15-17-19-17 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-2 in the next stitch, count 15-19-21-19-19-23 stitches (back piece), insert marker-3 in the next stitch, count 17-17-15-17-19-17 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-4 in the next stitch. There are 14-14-16-17-16-19 stitches left after the last marker (front piece).
Knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 4-8-2-0-4-0 stitches evenly spaced as follows: Knit past marker-1, then decrease 2-2-0-0-2-0 stitches evenly between markers 1 and 2, decrease 0-4-2-0-0-0 stitches evenly between markers 2 and 3, decrease 2-2-0-0-2-0 stitches evenly between markers 3 and 4 and work to end of row (do not decrease the marker-stitches) = 77-77-85-91-89-99 stitches.
There are 15-15-15-17-17-17 stitches between markers 1 and 2 and markers 3 and 4 (sleeves) and 15-15-19-19-19-23 stitches between markers 2 and 3 (back piece).
NECKLINE:
Change to circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75, work short rows and AT THE SAME TIME increase for raglan as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE.
ROW 1 (wrong side): Work 7 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (remembering to knit all raglan-stitches from the wrong side/purl them from the right side) until you have worked 2 stitches past marker-1 (i.e., front left side of neck when the garment is worn), turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for RAGLAN on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches – read description above, and until you have worked 2 stitches past marker-4 (front right of neck and 8 stitches increased), turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Work A.1 until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned by marker-1, turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 4 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches, and until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned by marker-4 (= 8 stitches increased), turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 5 (wrong side): Work A.1 until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned by marker-1, turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 6 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches and until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned by marker-4 (= 8 stitches increased), turn and tighten the strand.
ROW 7 (wrong side). Work A.1 to end of row (raglan-stitches are knitted from the wrong
side and the bands are knitted).
The short rows are finished and you have increased for raglan 3 times on each side of the 4 raglan-stitches = 101-101-109-115-113-123 stitches.
Continue working the yoke back and forth over all stitches as described below. REMEMBER THE BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
YOKE:
Continue A.1 with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side, purling the raglan-stitches from the right side and knitting them from the wrong side. AT THE SAME TIME continue to increase for raglan as follows:
Increase for raglan every 2nd row (each row from the right side) but every 2nd increase is only on the front and back pieces, i.e., increase on the front/back pieces every 2nd row and on the sleeves every 4th row (alternately 4 and 8 increased stitches). Increase like this 12-14-18-18-20-20 times on the front/back pieces and 6-7-9-9-10-10 times on the sleeves = 173-185-217-223-233-243 stitches.
The increases on the sleeves are finished. Continue to increase on the front/back pieces 4-4-0-1-2-3 more times = 189-201-217-227-241-255 stitches.
All raglan increases are finished. Continue working without further increases until the yoke measures 19-21-22-22-25-26 cm = 7 1/2"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-8 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4", measured after the neck mid-back.
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 34-36-38-40-42-46 stitches as before (front piece), place the next 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 55-59-63-65-71-77 stitches (back piece), place the next 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 34-36-38-40-42-46 stitches (front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!
BODY:
= 137-145-153-163-177-195 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 7-7-7-9-11-13 cast-on stitches under each sleeve. Allow them to follow your work onwards – they are used when dividing for the split in each side.
Continue A.1 back and forth with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
When the body measures 21-21-22-23-22-23 cm = 8 1/4"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-8 3/4"-9" from the division, divide the piece at each marker and finish the front and back separately. The marker-stitches belong to the front pieces.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-40-42-44-48-52 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 9-9-9-11-11-13 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP (do not increase over the bands) = 47-49-51-55-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work as follows from the wrong side (from the side): 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, purl 1 and 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm = 3 1/8". Bind off. You can use Italian bind off – see video under Tips and Help on our web page. The piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-40-42-44-48-52 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 9-9-9-11-11-13 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 47-49-51-55-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work as follows from the wrong side (from mid-front): 7 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm = 3 1/8". Bind off in the same way as on the left front piece.
BACK PIECE:
= 61-65-69-75-81-91 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 18-20-20-20-24-24 stitches evenly spaced = 79-85-89-95-105-115 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work as follows from the wrong side: 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm = 3 1/8". Bind off in the same way as on the front pieces.
SLEEVES:
Place the 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 7 MM = US 10.75 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7-7-7-9-11-13 new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 40-42-46-50-54-56 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker and continue A.1 in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-4-3-3 cm = 1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" from the division decrease 1 stitch before the marker – read DECREASE TIP. When the sleeve measures 12-12-8-6½-5-5 cm = 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-3 1/8"-2 1/2"-2"-2" from the division decrease 1 stitch after the marker – remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this, alternately before and after the marker, every 8-8-4-3-2-2 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4" a total of 4-4-8-10-14-14 times (2-2-4-5-7-7 times before the marker and 2-2-4-5-7-7 times after the marker) = 36-38-38-40-40-42 stitches. When the sleeve measures 37-35-35-36-34-32 cm = 14 1/2"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-13 3/8"-12 1/2" from the division, knit 1 round and increase 14-14-16-16-18-18 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 10 cm = 4”. Bind off. You can use Italian bind off. The sleeve measures approx. 47-45-45-46-44-42 cm = 18 1/2"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-18"-17 1/4"-16 1/2" from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight, it is important that the seam is elastic.
Sew together the opening on the bands mid-front, with small stitches.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
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= knit from right side, purl from wrong side |
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= purl from right side, knit from wrong side |
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
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Will try this cardigan! With nepal & air yarns ( I had them at home waiting for an autumn project) First time trying something with buttons :)
31.08.2023 - 16:38