Elodie Cardigan by DROPS Design
Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with European/diagonal shoulders and V-neck. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 240-29
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-427
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 104-112-120-130-142-152 cm = 41"-44"-47 1/4"-51 1/4"-55 3/4"-59 3/4"
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.
YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-350-400-450-450 g color 24, pink
BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 603: 3 items in all sizes.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.
KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-427
Yarn group C or A + A
-------------------------------------------------------
SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 104-112-120-130-142-152 cm = 41"-44"-47 1/4"-51 1/4"-55 3/4"-59 3/4"
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.
YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-350-400-450-450 g color 24, pink
BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 603: 3 items in all sizes.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.
KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE
Increase towards the left AFTER MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop.
Increase towards the right BEFORE MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
INCREASE TIP FROM WRONG SIDE:
Increase towards the left AFTER MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and purl stitch in front loop.
Increase towards the right BEFORE MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and purl stitch in back loop.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures:
S: 27, 34 and 41 cm = 10 5/8", 13 3/8" and 16 1/8"
M: 27, 35 and 43 cm = 10 5/8", 13 3/4" and 17"
L: 29, 37 and 45 cm = 11 3/8", 14 1/2" and 17 3/4"
XL: 30, 38 and 47 cm = 11 3/4", 15" and 18 1/2"
XXL: 32, 40 and 49 cm = 12 1/2", 15 3/4" and 19 1/4"
XXXL: 33, 42 and 51 cm = 13", 16 1/2" and 20"
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The back piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down as far as the armholes. Stitches are knitted up along each shoulder and increased for the neck and the front pieces are worked back and forth with circular needle as far as the armholes. The back and front pieces are joined and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. Stitches are knitted up around each armhole and the sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. The neck is worked to finish.
BACK PIECE:
Cast on 30-32-34-36-36-38 stitches with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and DROPS Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Insert 1 marker inside the 3 outermost stitches on each side. Keep the markers inside these 3 stitches onwards.
Work stockinette stitch back and forth.
AT THE SAME TIME, increase AFTER the marker at the beginning of the row (seen from the right side) and BEFORE the marker at the end of the row – read INCREASE FROM RIGHT SIDE.
On the next row (wrong side) increase in the same way – read INCREASE FROM WRONG SIDE.
Increase from both the right and wrong side a total of 26-28-28-30-32-36 times. After the last increase there are 82-88-90-96-100-110 stitches.
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Continue working until the piece measures 14-15-16-17-17-18 cm = 5 1/2"-6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7". Cut the yarn, put stitches on a thread or on an extra needle and work the front pieces as explained below.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Start on the left shoulder (when the garment is worn).
Cast on 7 stitches (band), knit up 26-28-28-30-32-36 stitches inside 1 stitch along the left shoulder on the back piece (knit up 1 stitch in each row) = 33-35-35-37-39-43 stitches. Work stockinette stitch with 7 stitches in GARTER STITCH-see description above, mid-front. When the piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2", increase at the beginning of each row from the right side for the neck, after the 7 garter stitches + 2 stockinette stitches – remember INCREASE FROM RIGHT SIDE. Increase 1 stitch every 2nd row 10-11-12-13-13-14 times, every 4th row 3 times and every 6th row 2 times = 48-51-52-55-57-62 stitches. When the piece measures 24-25-26-27-29-30 cm = 9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-11 3/4", stitches on a thread or on an extra needle, after working the last row from the right side. Cut the yarn. Work the right front piece as explained below.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Knit up 26-28-28-30-32-36 stitches inside 1 stitch along the right shoulder on the back piece then cast on 7 stitches at the end of the row (band) = 33-35-35-37-39-43 stitches. Work stockinette stitch with 7 stitches in garter stitch mid-front. When the piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2" increase at the end of each row from the right side for the neck, before 2 stockinette stitches + 7 garter stitches – remember INCREASE FROM RIGHT SIDE. Increase 1 stitch every 2nd row 10-11-12-13-13-14 times, every 4th row 3 times and every 6th row 2 times = 48-51-52-55-57-62 stitches. When the piece measures 24-25-26-27-29-30 cm = 9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-11 3/4", work as follows from the wrong side: Work the 48-51-52-55-57-62 stitches on the right front piece, cast on 6-8-12-14-20-20 stitches work the 82-88-90-96-100-110 stitches on the back piece, cast on 6-8-12-14-20-20 stitches, work the 48-51-52-55-57-62 stitches on the left front piece.
BODY:
= 190-206-218-234-254-274 stitches. Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and garter stitch - REMEMBER THE BUTTONHOLES – see description above, for a further 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16 1/2"-17 1/4"-18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2". Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 62-62-70-74-82-90 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 252-268-288-308-336-364 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Work rib as follows from the wrong side: 7 garter stitches, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 9 stitches left, purl 2 and 7 garter stitches. Continue this rib for 10 cm = 4”. Bind off.
LEFT SLEEVE:
Using circular needle size 5 MM = US 8, knit up from the right side 40-42-45-45-49-51 stitches from the bottom of the armhole and up the front piece to the shoulder, then 24-26-27-29-29-31 stitches from the shoulder to the bottom of the armhole down the back piece = 64-68-72-74-78-82 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the stitches picked up. Work now back and forth in
stockinette stitch with short rows for the sleeve cap, to gives a better shape to the sleeve.
1st row (from wrong side): work to 16 stitches after marker, turn.
2nd row (from right side): work to 16 stitches after marker, turn.
3rd row (from wrong side): work to 20 stitches after marker, turn.
4th row (from right side): work to 20 stitches after marker, turn.
5th row (from wrong side): work to 24 stitches after marker, turn.
6th row (from right side): work to 24 stitches after marker, turn.
7th row (from wrong side): work to the beginning of the row.
Work stockinette stitch back and forth for 5-5-7-7-9-9 cm = 2"-2"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/2"-3 1/2", measure from where the stitches were picked up (all length are measured mid on top of sleeve).
Join the sleeve, using short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8 and continue in the round. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (mid-under sleeve). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards.
Start at the marker-thread and continue with stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 7-7-9-9-11-11 cm = 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/2"-3 1/2"-4 3/8"-4 3/8" from the knitted-up stitches. Decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every5½-4½ -3½-3½ -2½-2 cm = 2 1/8"-1 5/8"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1"-3/4" a total of 6-7-8-8-9-10 times = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 38-37-38-37-37-35 cm = 15"-14 1/2"-15"-14 1/2"-14 1/2"-13 3/4". There is approx. 10 cm = 4” left; try the jacket on and work to desired length before the rib. Knit 1 round and increase 16-18-16-18-20-18 stitches evenly spaced = 68-72-72-76-80-80 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 10 cm = 4”. Bind off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 48-47-48-47-47-45 cm = 19"-18 1/2"-19"-18 1/2"-18 1/2"-17 3/4".
RIGHT SLEEVE:
Work the same way as the left sleeve, but first knit up 24-26-27-29-29-31 stitches from the bottom of the armhole up the back piece to the shoulder, then 40-42-45-45-49-51 stitches from the shoulder down the front piece. Sew the bottom of the armholes.
NECK
Knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7 garter stitches at the top of the right front piece, work garter stitch back and forth for 8-9-9-10-10-10 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2"-4"-4"-4"; check that the band reaches approx. midway at the back of the neck when stretched slightly. Bind off. Work in the same way from the band on the left front piece. Sew the bands together mid-back and sew the neck to the neckline.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
-------------------------------------------------------
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE
Increase towards the left AFTER MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop.
Increase towards the right BEFORE MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
INCREASE TIP FROM WRONG SIDE:
Increase towards the left AFTER MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and purl stitch in front loop.
Increase towards the right BEFORE MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and purl stitch in back loop.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures:
S: 27, 34 and 41 cm = 10 5/8", 13 3/8" and 16 1/8"
M: 27, 35 and 43 cm = 10 5/8", 13 3/4" and 17"
L: 29, 37 and 45 cm = 11 3/8", 14 1/2" and 17 3/4"
XL: 30, 38 and 47 cm = 11 3/4", 15" and 18 1/2"
XXL: 32, 40 and 49 cm = 12 1/2", 15 3/4" and 19 1/4"
XXXL: 33, 42 and 51 cm = 13", 16 1/2" and 20"
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
-------------------------------------------------------
START THE PIECE HERE:
-------------------------------------------------------
JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The back piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down as far as the armholes. Stitches are knitted up along each shoulder and increased for the neck and the front pieces are worked back and forth with circular needle as far as the armholes. The back and front pieces are joined and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. Stitches are knitted up around each armhole and the sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. The neck is worked to finish.
BACK PIECE:
Cast on 30-32-34-36-36-38 stitches with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and DROPS Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Insert 1 marker inside the 3 outermost stitches on each side. Keep the markers inside these 3 stitches onwards.
Work stockinette stitch back and forth.
AT THE SAME TIME, increase AFTER the marker at the beginning of the row (seen from the right side) and BEFORE the marker at the end of the row – read INCREASE FROM RIGHT SIDE.
On the next row (wrong side) increase in the same way – read INCREASE FROM WRONG SIDE.
Increase from both the right and wrong side a total of 26-28-28-30-32-36 times. After the last increase there are 82-88-90-96-100-110 stitches.
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Continue working until the piece measures 14-15-16-17-17-18 cm = 5 1/2"-6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7". Cut the yarn, put stitches on a thread or on an extra needle and work the front pieces as explained below.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Start on the left shoulder (when the garment is worn).
Cast on 7 stitches (band), knit up 26-28-28-30-32-36 stitches inside 1 stitch along the left shoulder on the back piece (knit up 1 stitch in each row) = 33-35-35-37-39-43 stitches. Work stockinette stitch with 7 stitches in GARTER STITCH-see description above, mid-front. When the piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2", increase at the beginning of each row from the right side for the neck, after the 7 garter stitches + 2 stockinette stitches – remember INCREASE FROM RIGHT SIDE. Increase 1 stitch every 2nd row 10-11-12-13-13-14 times, every 4th row 3 times and every 6th row 2 times = 48-51-52-55-57-62 stitches. When the piece measures 24-25-26-27-29-30 cm = 9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-11 3/4", stitches on a thread or on an extra needle, after working the last row from the right side. Cut the yarn. Work the right front piece as explained below.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Knit up 26-28-28-30-32-36 stitches inside 1 stitch along the right shoulder on the back piece then cast on 7 stitches at the end of the row (band) = 33-35-35-37-39-43 stitches. Work stockinette stitch with 7 stitches in garter stitch mid-front. When the piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2" increase at the end of each row from the right side for the neck, before 2 stockinette stitches + 7 garter stitches – remember INCREASE FROM RIGHT SIDE. Increase 1 stitch every 2nd row 10-11-12-13-13-14 times, every 4th row 3 times and every 6th row 2 times = 48-51-52-55-57-62 stitches. When the piece measures 24-25-26-27-29-30 cm = 9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-11 3/4", work as follows from the wrong side: Work the 48-51-52-55-57-62 stitches on the right front piece, cast on 6-8-12-14-20-20 stitches work the 82-88-90-96-100-110 stitches on the back piece, cast on 6-8-12-14-20-20 stitches, work the 48-51-52-55-57-62 stitches on the left front piece.
BODY:
= 190-206-218-234-254-274 stitches. Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and garter stitch - REMEMBER THE BUTTONHOLES – see description above, for a further 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16 1/2"-17 1/4"-18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2". Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 62-62-70-74-82-90 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 252-268-288-308-336-364 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Work rib as follows from the wrong side: 7 garter stitches, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 9 stitches left, purl 2 and 7 garter stitches. Continue this rib for 10 cm = 4”. Bind off.
LEFT SLEEVE:
Using circular needle size 5 MM = US 8, knit up from the right side 40-42-45-45-49-51 stitches from the bottom of the armhole and up the front piece to the shoulder, then 24-26-27-29-29-31 stitches from the shoulder to the bottom of the armhole down the back piece = 64-68-72-74-78-82 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the stitches picked up. Work now back and forth in
stockinette stitch with short rows for the sleeve cap, to gives a better shape to the sleeve.
1st row (from wrong side): work to 16 stitches after marker, turn.
2nd row (from right side): work to 16 stitches after marker, turn.
3rd row (from wrong side): work to 20 stitches after marker, turn.
4th row (from right side): work to 20 stitches after marker, turn.
5th row (from wrong side): work to 24 stitches after marker, turn.
6th row (from right side): work to 24 stitches after marker, turn.
7th row (from wrong side): work to the beginning of the row.
Work stockinette stitch back and forth for 5-5-7-7-9-9 cm = 2"-2"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/2"-3 1/2", measure from where the stitches were picked up (all length are measured mid on top of sleeve).
Join the sleeve, using short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8 and continue in the round. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (mid-under sleeve). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards.
Start at the marker-thread and continue with stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 7-7-9-9-11-11 cm = 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/2"-3 1/2"-4 3/8"-4 3/8" from the knitted-up stitches. Decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every5½-4½ -3½-3½ -2½-2 cm = 2 1/8"-1 5/8"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1"-3/4" a total of 6-7-8-8-9-10 times = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 38-37-38-37-37-35 cm = 15"-14 1/2"-15"-14 1/2"-14 1/2"-13 3/4". There is approx. 10 cm = 4” left; try the jacket on and work to desired length before the rib. Knit 1 round and increase 16-18-16-18-20-18 stitches evenly spaced = 68-72-72-76-80-80 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 10 cm = 4”. Bind off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 48-47-48-47-47-45 cm = 19"-18 1/2"-19"-18 1/2"-18 1/2"-17 3/4".
RIGHT SLEEVE:
Work the same way as the left sleeve, but first knit up 24-26-27-29-29-31 stitches from the bottom of the armhole up the back piece to the shoulder, then 40-42-45-45-49-51 stitches from the shoulder down the front piece. Sew the bottom of the armholes.
NECK
Knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7 garter stitches at the top of the right front piece, work garter stitch back and forth for 8-9-9-10-10-10 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2"-4"-4"-4"; check that the band reaches approx. midway at the back of the neck when stretched slightly. Bind off. Work in the same way from the band on the left front piece. Sew the bands together mid-back and sew the neck to the neckline.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
Updated online: 25.09.2023
A sleeve cap has been added on top of sleeve.
A sleeve cap has been added on top of sleeve.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
|
= Bottom of armhole: Sew b to B |
|
= stitches for front left shoulder (d) are knitted up along back left shoulder (D), stitches for front right shoulder (e), are knitted up along back right shoulder (E) |
|
= knitting direction |
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We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
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Hej! Jag får inte ihop beskrivningen för ärm och armhåla. Jag plockar upp 68 maskor (m), stickar fram och tillbaka i 2 cm och sedan stickar jag runt. Det blir ju ingen skillnad på om jag hade stickat runt direkt. Jag hade förstått bättre om jag skulle ha stickat slätstickning t ex 60 maskor i 2 cm och sedan börjat sticka runt med de 8 som är mitt under armen. ?? Eller ??? Tacksam för hjälp!
16.09.2023 - 15:19DROPS Design answered:
Hei Therese. Husk at du skal strikke frem og tilbake med forkortede pinner over ermetoppen. Dette gjøres for at ermet skal få en bedre passform. Se forklaringen til varv 1 - 7. mvh DROPS Design
26.09.2023 kl. 11:40Skal det være én, to eller ingen masker masker mellom økningene på ryggen?
09.09.2023 - 20:08DROPS Design answered:
Hei Nikoline LItt usikker på hva du mener. Du øker i hver side og det økes før/etter de 3 ytterste maskene. Mellom økningene er det et maskeantall (24-26-28-30-30-32) avhengig av hvilken str. du strikker etter. Ta gjerne titt på hjelpevideoene til Europeisk skulder, som du finner under målskissene. mvh DROPS Design
18.09.2023 kl. 10:13Entschuldigung. Autokorrektur. Die Frage bezieht sich auf die Hin- und Rückreihen.
06.09.2023 - 12:34Hallo, ich habe eine Frage. Bei den Vorderteilen soll in jeder 2. , jeder 4. bzw. jeder 6. Reihe zugenommen werden. Bezieht sich das jeweils auf die Hinreißen? Also soll in jeder 2., 4. bzw. 6. Hinreihe zugenommen werden? Oder werden die Rückseiten mitgezählt? Ich bedanke mich im Voraus für Ihre Mühe und Antwort.
06.09.2023 - 12:16DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Nicole, wenn man in jeder 2. Reihe / jeder 4. Reihe /jeder 6. Reihe zunimmt, wird man in jeder Hin-Reihe / in jeder 2. Hin-Reihe / in jeder 3. Hin-Reihe zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
06.09.2023 kl. 15:56Hi me again. With the decrease tip It said to k2tog then ssk which makes the decreased stitches lean out ward. Shouldn’t the decreases be leaning inword towards the center of the bottom marker? Thanks
28.08.2023 - 04:08DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jiji, in this video we show how to decrease mid under sleeve, feel free to edit the decreases if you like them leaning another way. Happy knitting!
28.08.2023 kl. 16:28Hello I am currently knitting a XL size cardigan and I am having some trouble with starting the left arm. The pattern states that you have to pickup 45stitches along the front to shoulder and 29stitches along the shoulder to back, a total of 74 stitches i work these 74 stitches for 4cm then do I pick up 14 stitches along the bottom of the arm hole then join and knit in the round? If I do so how do I avoid a giant hole caused by the off-set of 4cm stockinette / under armhole stitches?
27.08.2023 - 11:36DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jiji, there will be a hole, which you will later sew with an underarm seam, as indicated in the last sentence of right sleeve (Sew the bottom of the armholes). Happy knitting!
28.08.2023 kl. 01:07Hi:) I don't understand how to knit sleeves. At the beginning of knitting sleeves are we knit up stitches without armhole stitches ? Then we work stockinette stitch back and forth for 2-2-4-4-6-6 cm. And after we pick up the loops from the armhole and connect them in a circle? Thank you:)
15.08.2023 - 13:45DROPS Design answered:
Dear Alona, you will pick up stitches along armhole (not in the stitches cast on mid under sleeve) and more stitches along front piece (because armhole is longer) then along back piece (which is shorter), then correct, you continue back and forth for 2,4 or 6 cm than continue in the round. Happy knitting!
15.08.2023 kl. 16:13Hello, I don't understand the instruction that says to insert a marker "inside" the three outermost stitches. What does it mean? To insert a marker after the first three stitches and one before the last three.
15.08.2023 - 00:18DROPS Design answered:
Hi Melisa, Yes, that is correct. The markers are inserted after the first 3 stitches on the row and before the last 3 stitches. Happy crafting!
15.08.2023 kl. 06:37The description of the left and right front part says 'When the piece measures 24-25-26-27-29-30 cm'. From where to measure this length? From the shoulder? That is, from the place where we cast on 7 stitches (band), knit up 26-28-28-30-32-36 stitches?
09.08.2023 - 16:48DROPS Design answered:
Dear Alona, measure on the side, along the armhole (from the picked up stitches). Happy knitting!
09.08.2023 kl. 17:05Me again. When I try to knit up the 68 stitches for the sleeves a problem happened : I have for an M size more than 42 and 25 stitches in both sides of the armholes. How can I get only 68 stitches if my armholes are bigger ? It is not very clear. Thank you.
21.06.2023 - 20:51DROPS Design answered:
Dear Faye, with a tension of 17 sts for 10 cm, you should pick up ca 42 sts along armhole on front piece (=25 cm armhole x 1,7 tension = approx. 42 sts) and 25 sts along back piece (= 15 cm armhole x 1,7 tension = approx 25 sts) - if you get the correct tension, try to pick up stitches less often and/or decrease on the first row from WS to get the correct number of stitches. Happy knitting!
22.06.2023 kl. 09:51