DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Elodie Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with European/diagonal shoulders and V-neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 240-29
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-427
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 104-112-120-130-142-152 cm = 41"-44"-47¼"-51¼"-55¾"-59¾"
Full length: 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm = 20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-350-400-450-450 g color 24, pink

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 603: 3 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE
Increase towards the left AFTER MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop.
Increase towards the right BEFORE MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop.

INCREASE TIP FROM WRONG SIDE:
Increase towards the left AFTER MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and purl stitch in front loop.
Increase towards the right BEFORE MARKER:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and purl stitch in back loop.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures:
S: 27, 34 and 41 cm = 10⅝", 13⅜" and 16⅛"
M: 27, 35 and 43 cm = 10⅝", 13¾" and 17"
L: 29, 37 and 45 cm = 11⅜", 14½" and 17¾"
XL: 30, 38 and 47 cm = 11¾", 15" and 18½"
XXL: 32, 40 and 49 cm = 12½", 15¾" and 19¼"
XXXL: 33, 42 and 51 cm = 13", 16½" and 20"

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The back piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down as far as the armholes. Stitches are knitted up along each shoulder and increased for the neck and the front pieces are worked back and forth with circular needle as far as the armholes. The back and front pieces are joined and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. Stitches are knitted up around each armhole and the sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. The neck is worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 30-32-34-36-36-38 stitches with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and DROPS Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Insert 1 marker inside the 3 outermost stitches on each side. Keep the markers inside these 3 stitches onwards.
Work stockinette stitch back and forth.
AT THE SAME TIME, increase AFTER the marker at the beginning of the row (seen from the right side) and BEFORE the marker at the end of the row – read INCREASE FROM RIGHT SIDE.
On the next row (wrong side) increase in the same way – read INCREASE FROM WRONG SIDE.
Increase from both the right and wrong side a total of 26-28-28-30-32-36 times. After the last increase there are 82-88-90-96-100-110 stitches.
THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Continue working until the piece measures 14-15-16-17-17-18 cm = 5½"-6"-6¼"-6¾"-6¾"-7". Cut the yarn, put stitches on a thread or on an extra needle and work the front pieces as explained below.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Start on the left shoulder (when the garment is worn).
Cast on 7 stitches (band), knit up 26-28-28-30-32-36 stitches inside 1 stitch along the left shoulder on the back piece (knit up 1 stitch in each row) = 33-35-35-37-39-43 stitches. Work stockinette stitch with 7 stitches in GARTER STITCH-see description above, mid-front. When the piece measures 4 cm = 1½", increase at the beginning of each row from the right side for the neck, after the 7 garter stitches + 2 stockinette stitches – remember INCREASE FROM RIGHT SIDE. Increase 1 stitch every 2nd row 10-11-12-13-13-14 times, every 4th row 3 times and every 6th row 2 times = 48-51-52-55-57-62 stitches. When the piece measures 24-25-26-27-29-30 cm = 9½"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝"-11⅜"-11¾", stitches on a thread or on an extra needle, after working the last row from the right side. Cut the yarn. Work the right front piece as explained below.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Knit up 26-28-28-30-32-36 stitches inside 1 stitch along the right shoulder on the back piece then cast on 7 stitches at the end of the row (band) = 33-35-35-37-39-43 stitches. Work stockinette stitch with 7 stitches in garter stitch mid-front. When the piece measures 4 cm = 1½" increase at the end of each row from the right side for the neck, before 2 stockinette stitches + 7 garter stitches – remember INCREASE FROM RIGHT SIDE. Increase 1 stitch every 2nd row 10-11-12-13-13-14 times, every 4th row 3 times and every 6th row 2 times = 48-51-52-55-57-62 stitches. When the piece measures 24-25-26-27-29-30 cm = 9½"-9¾"-10¼"-10⅝"-11⅜"-11¾", work as follows from the wrong side: Work the 48-51-52-55-57-62 stitches on the right front piece, cast on 6-8-12-14-20-20 stitches work the 82-88-90-96-100-110 stitches on the back piece, cast on 6-8-12-14-20-20 stitches, work the 48-51-52-55-57-62 stitches on the left front piece.

BODY:
= 190-206-218-234-254-274 stitches. Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and garter stitch - REMEMBER THE BUTTONHOLES – see description above, for a further 42-44-46-48-50-52 cm = 16½"-17¼"-18"-19"-19¾"-20½". Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 62-62-70-74-82-90 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 252-268-288-308-336-364 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Work rib as follows from the wrong side: 7 garter stitches, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 9 stitches left, purl 2 and 7 garter stitches. Continue this rib for 10 cm = 4". Bind off.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Using circular needle size 5 MM = US 8, knit up from the right side 40-42-45-45-49-51 stitches from the bottom of the armhole and up the front piece to the shoulder, then 24-26-27-29-29-31 stitches from the shoulder to the bottom of the armhole down the back piece = 64-68-72-74-78-82 stitches.

Insert 1 marker in the middle of the stitches picked up. Work now back and forth in
stockinette stitch with short rows for the sleeve cap, to gives a better shape to the sleeve.
1st row (from wrong side): work to 16 stitches after marker, turn.
2nd row (from right side): work to 16 stitches after marker, turn.
3rd row (from wrong side): work to 20 stitches after marker, turn.
4th row (from right side): work to 20 stitches after marker, turn.
5th row (from wrong side): work to 24 stitches after marker, turn.
6th row (from right side): work to 24 stitches after marker, turn.
7th row (from wrong side): work to the beginning of the row.


Work stockinette stitch back and forth for 5-5-7-7-9-9 cm = 2"-2"-2¾"-2¾"-3½"-3½", measure from where the stitches were picked up (all length are measured mid on top of sleeve).

Join the sleeve, using short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8 and continue in the round. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (mid-under sleeve). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards.
Start at the marker-thread and continue with stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 7-7-9-9-11-11 cm = 2¾"-2¾"-3½"-3½"-4⅜"-4⅜" from the knitted-up stitches. Decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every5½-4½ -3½-3½ -2½-2 cm = 2⅛"-1⅝"-1¼"-1¼"-1"-¾" a total of 6-7-8-8-9-10 times = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 38-37-38-37-37-35 cm = 15"-14½"-15"-14½"-14½"-13¾". There is approx. 10 cm = 4" left; try the jacket on and work to desired length before the rib. Knit 1 round and increase 16-18-16-18-20-18 stitches evenly spaced = 68-72-72-76-80-80 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 10 cm = 4". Bind off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 48-47-48-47-47-45 cm = 19"-18½"-19"-18½"-18½"-17¾".

RIGHT SLEEVE:

Work the same way as the left sleeve, but first knit up 24-26-27-29-29-31 stitches from the bottom of the armhole up the back piece to the shoulder, then 40-42-45-45-49-51 stitches from the shoulder down the front piece. Sew the bottom of the armholes.

NECK
Knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7 garter stitches at the top of the right front piece, work garter stitch back and forth for 8-9-9-10-10-10 cm = 3⅛"-3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4"; check that the band reaches approx. midway at the back of the neck when stretched slightly. Bind off. Work in the same way from the band on the left front piece. Sew the bands together mid-back and sew the neck to the neckline.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 25.09.2023
A sleeve cap has been added on top of sleeve.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = Bottom of armhole: Sew b to B
symbols = stitches for front left shoulder (d) are knitted up along back left shoulder (D), stitches for front right shoulder (e), are knitted up along back right shoulder (E)
symbols = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (30)

country flag Makena wrote:

I'd like to knit the button band in a different colour. Do I just cast on stitches in the second colour and then pick up with the main body colour? If so how do I attach the two sections. Or should I knit the cardigan them attach a button band after?

02.07.2024 - 22:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Makena, this cardigan was designed with the buttonband mostly knitted at the same time, as the rest of the piece. So unless you are willing to have the yarns twisted and changed after and before the bands at every row (like you would do if you knit intarsia), it would take much modification to knit the bands at a different color, and please understand that with many thousands of patterns available in several languages, we cannot modify our patterns to each individual request. Happy Knitting!

03.07.2024 - 00:42

country flag Monica wrote:

Hei! Jeg får det ikke helt til å stemme at bakstykket kun skal være 14 cm. Når forstykkene skal kobles til bakstykke så faller skulderkonstruksjonen langt ned på skuldrene om du skjønner. Jeg har strikket flere gensere og jakker med helt lik konstruksjon, og da er ofte bakstykkene i alle fall lengre enn 25 cm målt fra oppleggskanten. Er det noe her jeg ikke forstår?

18.06.2024 - 14:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Monica, Det er toppen av forstykket som er litt ned på bakstykket (derfor er forstykket litt lengre en bakstykket og opplukningsrad er bak på skuldrene). Håper dette hjelper og god fornøyelse!

19.06.2024 - 08:05

country flag Robert wrote:

Bonjour La finition du col proposée ne donne pas un excellent rendu. J’ai donc modifié et fait une seule bande d’encolure que j’ai cousu à point arrière. Le rendu est bien plus joli. N’y aurait il pas une autre solution possible? Le gilet est vraiment superbe. Isa

13.03.2024 - 07:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Robert, vous pouvez peut-être vous inspirer de cette vidéo où on montre comment coudre un bord point mousse (emmanchure dans la vidéo, col dans ce modèle) le long du jersey (manche dans la vidéo, encolure dos dans ce gilet). Bon assemblage!

13.03.2024 - 08:29

country flag Nicole wrote:

Hi again, increasing every 2nd row, is that: increase on the right side, no increase wrong side and then increase on the right side again? Or am I knitting a whole right and wrong side as well as a non increase? Thanks.

11.03.2024 - 06:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nicole, increasing every second row is increasing every row from the right side (and no increase on th ewrong side). I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

11.03.2024 - 09:24

country flag Nicole wrote:

Hello, on the front left shoulder, increasing 1 stitch every 2nd row, am I increasing 3 stitches every 4th roe? What does it mean “every 4th row 3 times”? Thank you 🌷

10.03.2024 - 15:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nicole, Increase 1 stitch every 2nd row 10-11-12-13-13-14 times, every 4th row 3 times and every 6th row 2 times. This means that you increase 1 stitch every other row (one row with increases, one row without increases)10-11-12-13-13-14 times. Then, increase 1 stitch every 4th row (1 row with increases, 3 without increase) 3 times. Then, increase 1 stitch every 6th row (1 row with increases, 5 without increases) 2 times. Happy knitting!

11.03.2024 - 00:18

country flag Dominika wrote:

Dzień dobry, nie do końca wiem jak na rękawie przerobić główkę rękawa za pomocą rzędów skróconych. Od 7 rzędu przerabiałam 48 oczek tam i z powrotem aż do uzyskania 7cm na górze ramienia, natomiast 20 oczek znajdujące się od strony pachy nie przerabiałam. Następnie miałam połączyć oczka z rzędów skróconych z oczkami nieprzerabianymi i kontynuować na okrągło, ale powstała brzydka dziura pomiędzy tymi grupami oczek. Czy zrobiłam coś źle? Pozdrawiam

20.02.2024 - 22:51

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Dominiko, wszystko jest ok. Teraz będziesz wszywać tą górną część rękawa do dołu podkroju rękawa (do tyłu/przodu), czyli zszywasz b z B, jak na schemacie z czarną gwiazdką na dole wzoru. Pozdrawiamy!

21.02.2024 - 09:40

country flag Norma Brown wrote:

Hello. Please can you confirm from what point is the measurement taken in order to make the buttonholes. Is it from the marker on the shoulder where the pattern says "THE PIECE IS MEASURED FROM HERE!" ? or from the front piece? Many thanks

12.02.2024 - 18:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Norma, The positioning of the buttonholes is measured from the top of the front piece (from the knitted-up stitches). Happy crafting!

13.02.2024 - 06:46

country flag Sabrina wrote:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zu den Vorderteilen. In der Anleitung steht dass in JEDER Reihe 2 Maschen zugenommen werden. Und anschließend steht dass in dieser Weise in jeder 2./3./6. Reihe jeweils eine Masche zugenommen wird. Was heißt das? Werden also zum Beispiel 2 Maschen zugenommen und in der 2. Reihe 3 Maschen zugenommen ? Oder werden auf der hinreihe 2 Maschen zugenommen und auf der Rückreihe 1 Masche?

19.01.2024 - 21:18

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sabrina, die Zunahmen für den Halsausschnitt werden am Ende einer Hin-Reihe, dh zuerst in jeder 2. Reihe. = bei jeder Hin-Reihe dann in jeder 4. Reihe = in jeder 2. Hin-Reihe dann in jeder 6. Reihe = in jeder 3. Hin-Reihe. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.01.2024 - 08:02

country flag Luna wrote:

Ciao! Nella porzione del corpo, c’e scritto di aumentare 62 maglie uniformemente (sto lavorando una M). Non capisco se si intende di lavorarla per l’intera lunghezza del corpo o nel primo ferro del corpo. Grazie in anticipo!

16.01.2024 - 20:22

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Luna, deve aumentare tutte le maglie nel ferro a diritto indicato. Buon lavoro!

17.01.2024 - 16:53

country flag Ka wrote:

Hallo! Ich wüsste gern, welche Nadelstärke und -länge ich verwenden muss wenn ich die Ärmel mit einer Rundnadel anstatt mit einem Nadelspiel stricken möchte.

05.01.2024 - 14:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ka, wenn Sie mit einer Rundnadel stricken möchten, stricken Sie dan nmit einer 40 cm am Anfang dann wenn es weniger Maschen sind mit dem Nadelspiel oder mit Magic Loop und 8O cm Rundnadel, siehe hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.01.2024 - 15:44