DROPS / 222 / 26

White Water Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with round saddle shoulders, lace pattern and pouffe sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

  • White Water Jacket / DROPS 222-26 - Knitted jacket in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with round saddle shoulders, lace pattern and pouffe sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
  • White Water Jacket / DROPS 222-26 - Knitted jacket in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with round saddle shoulders, lace pattern and pouffe sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
  • White Water Jacket / DROPS 222-26 - Knitted jacket in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with round saddle shoulders, lace pattern and pouffe sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
  • White Water Jacket / DROPS 222-26 - Knitted jacket in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with round saddle shoulders, lace pattern and pouffe sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
  • White Water Jacket / DROPS 222-26 - Knitted jacket in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with round saddle shoulders, lace pattern and pouffe sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern ks-173
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 90-96-104-114-128-142 cm = 35 1/2"-37 3/4"-41"-45"-50 3/8"-55 3/4"
Full length: 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
175-200-225-250-275-300 g color 38, chalk

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
20 stitches in width with pattern A.3 = 10 cm = 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8 : Length 40 = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch and lace pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 5-5-6-6-6-6 pieces

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, count the stitches to be increased/decreased (e.g. 17 stitches), and divide by stitches of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 5) = 3.4.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes
If decreasing knit in this example alternately approx. every 2nd and 3rd stitch and every 3rd and 4th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP-1:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (from wrong side) purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 FROM RIGHT SIDE:
BEFORE MARKER:
The stitch is twisted towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The stitch is twisted towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 3 cm = 1 1/8". Then bind off the next 4-4-5-5-5-5 buttonholes approx. 9½-10-8-8½-9-9 cm = 3 5/9"-4"-3 1/8"-3 1/4"-3 1/2"-3 1/2" apart.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. 3rd or every 6th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked top down.
Work neck edge back and forth from mid front. Then work shoulders back and forth separately. Then slip all stitches on to same circular needle, at the same time pick up stitches along the saddle shoulders. Then work yoke back and forth from mid front, at the same time increase for sleeves and yoke.
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 96-102-106-106-110-122 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 with 2 strands Kid-Silk. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). Work next row as follows from right side: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, work A.1 over the next 12-15-15-15-15-18 stitches, work the first 2 stitches in A.1, insert 1 marker here (= in transition between front piece and left saddle shoulder), work A.2 over the next 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches, insert 1 marker here (= in transition between left saddle shoulder and back piece), work A.1 over the next 30-30-30-30-30-36 stitches, work the first 2 stitches in A.1, insert 1 marker here (= in transition between back piece and right saddle shoulder), work A.2 over the next 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches, insert 1 marker here (= in transition between right saddle shoulder and right front piece), work A.1 over the next 12-15-15-15-15-18 stitches, work the first 2 stitches in A.1, 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth like this. When rib measures 3 cm = 1 1/8", cut the yarn.
Now divide the piece for front pieces, back piece and saddle shoulders. Slip the first and last 19-22-22-22-22-25 stitches on separate stitch holders (= front piece), skip the next 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches in each side (= shoulder stitches), slip the middle 32-32-32-32-32-38 stitches on a stitch holder (= back piece). Now work saddle shoulder separately.

SADDLE SHOULDERS:
= 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches. Work back and forth over shoulder stitches in one side on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5, as follows: Cast on 1 stitch on row (= edge stitch), work the 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches in pattern as before, at the same time increase all 1 purl stitch to 2 purl stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1 (= 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches increased), cast on 1 stitch at the end of row (= edge stitch) = 21-21-24-24-27-27 stitches. Now work pattern (1 English rib stitch, purl 2) back and forth until piece measures 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm = 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" from where all 1 purl stitches were increased to 2 purl stitches, adjust so that last row is worked from wrong side. Slip stitches on a stitch holder. Work the other saddle shoulder the same way.

Now work front pieces, back piece and shoulder stitch on to same circular needle size 5 MM = US 8, at the same time pick up stitches along the sides on saddle shoulders. Work as follows from RS:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, knit over the next 14-17-17-17-17-20 stitches and increase at the same time 1-5-5-8-8-12 stitches evenly – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (= 15-22-22-25-25-32 stitches), pick up 16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches inside edge stitch along the side on saddle shoulder, knit 1 * knit 1 in front and back loop of next stitch, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over the next 17-17-21-21-24-24 stitches, knit 1 in front and back loop of stitch, knit 1 (= 58-58-67-67-76-76 stitches), pick up 16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches inside edge stitch along the other side of saddle shoulder, knit over the 32-32-32-32-32-38 stitches on back piece and increase at the same time 9-9-9-15-15-9 stitches evenly (= 41-41-41-47-47-47 stitches), pick up 16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches inside edge stitch along the side on saddle shoulder, knit 1 * knit 1 in front and back loop of next stitch, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over the next 17-17-21-21-24-24 stitches, knit 1 in front and back loop of stitch, knit 1 (= 58-58-67-67-76-76 stitches), pick up 16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches inside edge stitch along the other side of saddle shoulder, knit over the next 14-17-17-17-17-20 stitches and increase at the same time 1-5-5-8-8-12 stitches evenly (= 15-22-22-25-25-32 stitches), 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above.
There are now 261-275-293-321-339-353 stitches on needle. Purl 1 row from wrong side (band stitches in garter stitches as before).

YOKE:
Insert a marker thread after band at the beginning of stitches mid front - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Now work pattern and 4 markers in the piece as follows:
1st marker: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.3 over the next 28-35-35-42-42-49 stitches, work the first 3 stitches in A.3, insert 1st marker in next stitch (= right front piece).
2nd marker: Work in stockinette stitch over the next 56-56-65-65-74-74 stitches, insert 2nd marker in next stitch (= right sleeve).
3rd marker: Work A.3 over the next 70-70-70-84-84-84 stitches, work the first 3 stitches in A.3, insert 3rd marker in next stitch (= back piece).
4th marker: Work in stockinette stitch over the next 56-56-65-65-74-74 stitches, insert 4th marker in next stitch (= left sleeve).
Work A.3 over the next 28-35-35-42-42-49 stitches, work the first 3 stitches in A.3, 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= left front piece).
Move these 4 markers upwards when working; increase at each of these markers.
Continue back and forth with pattern like this. (stitches with markers are worked in stockinette stitch. AT THE SAME TIME on next row from right side the increase for SLEEVE INCREASE and YOKE INCREASE starts. Increase as explained below:

SLEEVE INCREASE:
Work in stockinette stitch on sleeves.
AT THE SAME TIME on next row from right side increase 4 stitches for sleeves as follows:
Increase AFTER 1st and 3rd marker and increase BEFORE 2nd and 4th marker – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased).
Increase stitches on sleeves, and work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.
Increase like this every other round 7-10-7-9-6-8 times in total.

YOKE INCREASE:
Work pattern as before on front pieces and back piece.
AT THE SAME TIME on next row from right side increase 4 stitches for yoke as follows:
Increase BEFORE 1st and 3rd marker and increase AFTER 2nd and 4th marker – remember INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased).
Increase on front pieces and back piece, and work the increased stitches in A.3.
Increase like this every other round 0-7-7-7-14-21 times in total.

When all increases are done there are 289-343-349-385-419-469 stitches on row.
Work until piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm = 7 1/2"-8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8" from marker after neck edge.
Now divide piece for body and sleeves. Work next row as follows:
Work the first 40-50-52-57-64-78 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 64-78-77-85-88-92 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-10-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 81-87-91-101-115-129 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 64-78-77-85-88-92 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-10-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work the last 40-50-52-57-64-78 stitches as before (= front piece).
Now finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 173-199-211-235-263-305 stitches. Continue back and forth with pattern as before, but over the 14-6-12-10-10-10 stitches in each side (i.e. the 6-6-8-10-10-10 new stitches cast on + 4-0-2-0-0-0 stitches on each side of these stitches) work in stockinette stitch.
When piece measures 19-19-18-18-17-17 cm = 7 1/2"-7 1/2"-7"-7"-6 3/4"-6 3/4" from division, next row from right side as follows:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.3 as before over the next 31-45-45-52-59-73 stitches, but skip the yarn over in every repetition A.3 (decrease 1 stitch in every repetition A.3 = 4-6-6-7-8-10 stitches decreased), knit over the next 14-6-12-10-10-10 stitches and increase at the same time 4-3-6-5-5-5 stitches evenly, work pattern as before over the next 73-87-87-101-115-129 stitches but skip the yarn over in every repetition A.3 (decrease 1 stitch in each repetition A.3 = 10-12-12-14-16-18 stitches deceased), knit the next 14-6-12-10-10-10 stitches and increase at the same time 4-3-6-5-5-5 stitches evenly, work pattern as before over the next 31-45-45-52-59-73 stitches, but skip the yarn over in every repetition A.3 (decrease 1 stitch in every repetition A.3 = 4-6-6-7-8-10 stitches decreased), 5 band stitches in garter stitch = 163-181-199-217-241-277 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Now work rib as follows:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, work the last 2 stitches in A.1, then work A.1 until 6 stitches remain on row, work first stitch in A.1, 5 band stitches in garter stitch - English rib stitch in A.1 should fit knit stitches in A.3.
Continue rib like this for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Bind off with knit over garter stitches and English rib stitches and purl over purl - read BIND-OFF TIP.
Jacket measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22" from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 64-78-77-85-88-92 stitches from stitch holder in one side back on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8. Pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-10-10-10 new stitches under sleeve = 70-84-85-95-98-102 stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 22-20-18-16-15-12 cm = 8 3/4"-8"-7"-6 1/4"-6"-4 3/4" from division - try the jacket on and work until desired length (approx. 9 cm = 3 1/2" rib remain until finished measurements), decrease 28-42-40-47-47-51 stitches evenly = 42-42-45-48-51-51 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5. Work A.1 in the round for 9 cm = 3 1/2". Bind off with knit over English rib stitches and purl over purl - read BIND-OFF TIP.
Sleeve measures approx. 31-29-27-25-24-21 cm = 12 1/4"-11 3/8"-10 5/8"-9 3/4"-9 1/2"-8 1/4" from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 17.03.2021
SADDLE SHOULDERS: ... Now work pattern (1 English rib stitch, purl 2) back and forth until piece measures 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm = 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" ... YOKE: ... Continue back and forth with pattern like this (stitches with markers are worked in stockinette stitch)...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = insert right needle through stitch from previous row, knit 1 and slip stitches off the left needle (= English rib stitch)
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn over to make holes
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 222-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Susanne 26.05.2021 - 16:28:

Medium str. ang svar på spørgsmålet nedenunder

user icon DROPS Design 28.05.2021 kl. 08:04:

Hei Susanne. Da har vi lagt til en rettelse under Sadelskulder (i str S og M). Det skal strikkes: * 1 rett i fremre og bakre ledd av neste maske, lag 1 kast om pinnen *, strikk fra *-* over de neste 17 maskene (ikke 18 m). Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette. God Fornøyelse videre på jakken. mvh DROPS design

country flag Susanne 25.05.2021 - 20:22:

Er det mig der tæller forkert? Første udt ved sadelærmer bliver til 21. Næste udt skal man strikke 1 ret i hver side (= 19 tilbage) men opskriften siger 18 med udt i forreste, bagerste og slå om????er nødt til at spørge da det er pivsvært at trævle op i kids silk🤪

user icon DROPS Design 26.05.2021 kl. 14:46:

Hei Susanne. Vi skal dobbeltsjekke, men hvilken størrelse refererer du til? mvh DROPS design

country flag Susanne 15.05.2021 - 14:45:

Hvilken pind str skal strikkefastheden tilpasses? 3 eller 5?

user icon DROPS Design 17.05.2021 kl. 10:43:

Hej Susanne, vi får 17 masker på 10 cm i glatstrik på pind nr 5 med 2 tråde DROPS Kid-Silk. God fornøjelse!

country flag Carine 23.04.2021 - 21:01:

Bonjour, Je suis à la partie "EMPIECEMENT". J'ai partagé les mailles par 4 marqueurs, mais j ai 4 mailles de trop. Pour la plus petite taille on a un total de 261 mailles. In sépare comme suit: pour le devant 5m+28m+3m=36m Pour la Manche 56m Pour le dos 70m+3m=73m Pour la 2e manche 56m Pour le 2e devant 28m+3m+5m=36m Total : 257 mailles, comme j'ai 261mailles ça me fait 4 mailles de trop. Me suis-je trompée ?

user icon DROPS Design 26.04.2021 kl. 07:20:

Bonjour Carine, vous devez bien avoir 261 mailles au début de l'empiècement, les marqueurs sont chacun placés dans une maille = les 4 mailles qui vous "manquent", autrement dit vous avez: 36 m pour le devant, 1 m avec un marqueur, 56 m pour la manche, 1 m avec un marqueur, 73 m pour le dos, 1 m avec un marqueur, 56 m pour la manche, 1 m avec un marqueur, 36 m pour le devant = 36+1+56+1+73+1+56+1+36=261 m. Bon tricot!

country flag Salla 16.04.2021 - 10:46:

Would I make this alpaca yarn simple enough or should it be double?

country flag Ellen 15.03.2021 - 21:20:

I'm working on the yoke, and I don't understand what you do with the stitches you place a marker at, as the pattern just says insert marker. Do you just put the marker in and slip that stitch from the left needle to the right needle? or do you put the marker in and then knit that stitch across? Thank you

user icon DROPS Design 16.03.2021 kl. 08:05:

Hi Ellen, You insert the marker either before or after working the stitch, but the stitch must be worked as normal. Happy crafting!

country flag Sigrid 12.03.2021 - 15:01:

Hei, når man skal begynne på bærestykket, skal man plassere de fire merkene i «neste maske». Men hvordan skal masken med merket strikkes? Og skal man ta ut merket for så å strikke masken, og så flytte det hver runde?

user icon DROPS Design 15.03.2021 kl. 13:59:

Hei Sigrid. Det strikkes etter mønster, er det en vrangmønster i diagrammet som er neste maske, strikkes det vrang. Som regel settes et merke i en rettmaske. Du kan enten flytte merket etter hver omgang som du skriver, eller se etter hvilken maske som har merke og så følge denne "linje". mvh DROPS design

country flag Sigrid 12.03.2021 - 15:00:

Hei, når man skal begynne på bærestykket, skal man plassere de fire merkene i «neste maske». Men hvordan skal masken med merket strikkes? Og skal man ta ut merket for så å strikke masken, og så flytte det hver runde?

country flag Sareith 05.03.2021 - 08:54:

Bonjour Merci pour votre rapide réponse et la vidéo. Malgré tout, je ne comprends pas comment tricoter ces augmentations sur la partie de l'épaule, dois je augmenter sur le bord de l'épaule avec 1m avant+1m brin arrière+1 jeté puis sur l'épaule 1mavant sur 1 marin arrière sur 21 mailles mais je n'arrive pas à 67 "" (= 58-58-67-67-76-76 mailles) ""

user icon DROPS Design 05.03.2021 kl. 13:03:

Bonjour Mme Sareith, vous allez tricotez les 24 m de l'épaule ainsi: 1 m end, puis les 21 suivantes vont être "triplées" (= *tricotez 2 fois 1 m, 1 jeté* x 21 = vous avez ainsi 63 m au total), tricotez 2 fois la m suivante (= 2 m) et 1 m end = 1+63+2+1= 67m. En espérant que ce soit plus clair ainsi. Bon tricot!

country flag Sareith 04.03.2021 - 19:34:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas la partie les brins relever 16-16-16-20-20-20 mailles à 1 maille lisière du bord le long du côté de l'épaule, tricoter 1 maille endroit, *1 maille endroit dans le brin avant et dans le brin arrière de la maille suivante, 1 jeté *, Avez vous une video ?

user icon DROPS Design 05.03.2021 kl. 07:29:

Bonjour Mme Sareith, tout à fait, cette vidéo montre comment tricoter une maille d'abord dans le brin avant, puis dans le brin arrière. Bon tricot!

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