DROPS / 222 / 25

White Water by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with round saddle shoulders, lace pattern and pouffe sleeves. Size: S - XXXL

  • White Water / DROPS 222-25 - Knitted sweater in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with round saddle shoulders, lace pattern and pouffe sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
  • White Water / DROPS 222-25 - Knitted sweater in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with round saddle shoulders, lace pattern and pouffe sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
  • White Water / DROPS 222-25 - Knitted sweater in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with round saddle shoulders, lace pattern and pouffe sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
  • White Water / DROPS 222-25 - Knitted sweater in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with round saddle shoulders, lace pattern and pouffe sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern ks-172
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 90-106-104-114-128-142 cm = 35 1/2"-41 3/4"-41"-45"-50 3/8"-55 3/4"
Full length: 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
175-200-225-250-275-300 g color 38, chalk

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
20 stitches in width with pattern A.3 = 10 cm = 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8 : Length 40 = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch and lace pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5 : Length 40 = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, count the stitches to be increased/decreased (e.g. 17 stitches), and divide by stitches of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 5) = 3.4.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes
If decreasing knit in this example alternately approx. every 2nd and 3rd stitch and every 3rd and 4th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (from wrong side) purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2:
BEFORE MARKER:
The stitch is twisted towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from round below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The stitch is twisted towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from round below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. 3rd or every 6th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Work shoulders back and forth separately. Then pick up stitches along shoulders, and work in the round over all stitches, at the same time increase for sleeves and for yoke. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 90-90-94-106-110-110 stitches on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 with 2 strands Kid-Silk. Knit 1 round. Then work rib as follows: A.1 over the first 15-15-15-18-18-18 stitches, work the first 2 stitches in A.1 (= approx. half back piece), insert a marker here, A.2 over the next 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches (= shoulder stitches), insert a marker, A.1 over the next 30-30-30-36-36-36 stitches, work the first 2 stitches in A.1 (= front piece), insert a marker here, A.2 over the next 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches (= shoulder stitches), insert a marker here, A.1 over the last 15-15-15-18-18-18 stitches (= approx. half back piece). Continue in the round like this for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Cut the yarn.
Now divide the piece for back piece, front piece and saddle shoulders.
Slip the first 17-17-17-20-20-20 stitches on a stitch holder (= approx. half back piece), skip the next 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches (= saddle shoulder), slip the next 32-32-32-38-38-38 stitches on a stitch holder (= front piece), skip the next 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches (= saddle shoulder), slip the last 15-15-15-18-18-18 stitches on a stitch holder (= approx. half back piece).
Now work saddle shoulder in each side, separately.

SADDLE SHOULDERS:
= 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches. Work back and forth over shoulder stitches in one side on circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5, as follows: Cast on 1 stitch on row (= edge stitch), work the 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches in pattern as before, at the same time increase all 1 purl stitch to 2 purl stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1 (= 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches increased), cast on 1 stitch at the end of row (= edge stitch) = 21-21-24-24-27-27 stitches. Now work pattern (1 English rib stitch, purl 2) back and forth until piece measures 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm = 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" from where all 1 purl stitches were increased to 2 purl stitches, adjust so that last row is worked from wrong side. Slip stitches on a stitch holder. Work the other saddle shoulder the same way.

Now work front pieces, back piece and shoulder stitch on to same circular needle size 5 MM = US 8, at the same time pick up stitches along the sides on saddle shoulders. Work as follows from right side:
Begin approx. mid back and knit over the 17-17-17-20-20-20 stitches on half back piece and increase at the same time 5-5-5-5-5-5 stitches evenly – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (= 22-22-22-25-25-25 stitches), pick up 16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches inside edge stitch along the side on saddle shoulder, knit 1 * knit 1 in front and back loop of next stitch, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over the next 17-17-21-21-24-24 stitches, knit 1 in front and back loop of stitch, knit 1 (= 58-58-67-67-76-76 stitches for sleeve), pick up 16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches inside edge stitch along the other side of saddle shoulder, knit over the next 32-32-32-38-38-38 stitches on front piece and increase at the same time 9-9-9-9-9-9 stitches evenly (= 41-41-41-47-47-47 stitches), pick up 16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches inside edge stitch on the other saddle shoulder, knit 1, * knit 1 in front and back loop of next stitch, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* over the next 17-17-21-21-24-24 stitches, knit 1 in front and back loop of stitch, knit 1 (= 58-58-67-67-76-76 stitches), pick up 16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches inside edge stitch along the other side of saddle shoulder, knit over the 15-15-15-18-18-18 stitches on approx. half back piece and increase at the same time 4-4-4-4-4-4 stitches evenly (= 19-19-19-22-22-22 stitches).
There are now 262-262-280-308-326-326 stitches on needle. Knit 1 round.

YOKE:
Insert a marker thread approx. mid back. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Now work pattern and 4 markers in the piece as follows:
1st marker: Work A.3 over the first 35-35-35-42-42-42 stitches, work the first 3 stitches in A.3, insert 1st marker in next stitch (= half back piece).
2nd marker: Work in stockinette stitch over the next 56-56-65-65-74-74 stitches, insert 2nd marker in next stitch (= right sleeve).
3rd marker: Work A.3 over the next 70-70-70-84-84-84 stitches, work the first 3 stitches in A.3, insert 3rd marker in next stitch (= front piece).
4th marker: Work in stockinette stitch over the next 56-56-65-65-74-74 stitches, insert 4th marker in next stitch (= left sleeve).
Work A.3 over the last 35-35-35-42-42-42 stitches (= half back piece).
Move these 4 markers upwards when working; increase at each of these markers.
Continue in the round with pattern like this (stitches with markers are worked in stockinette stitch), AT THE SAME TIME on the next round the increases for SLEEVE INCREASE and YOKE INCREASE starts, increase as follows:

SLEEVE INCREASE:
Work in stockinette stitch on sleeves.
AT THE SAME TIME on next round increase 4 stitches for sleeves as follows:
Increase AFTER 1st and 3rd marker and increase BEFORE 2nd and 4th marker – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased).
Increase stitches on sleeves, and work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.
Increase like this every other round 7-10-7-9-6-8 times in total.

YOKE INCREASE (applies to front and back piece):
Work pattern as before on front pieces and back piece.
AT THE SAME TIME on next round increase 4 stitches for yoke as follows:
Increase BEFORE 1st and 3rd marker and increase AFTER 2nd and 4th marker – remember INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased).
Increase on front pieces and back piece, and work the increased stitches in A.3.
Increase like this every other round 0-7-7-7-14-21 times in total.

When all increases are done there are 290-330-336-372-406-442 stitches on row.
Work until piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm = 7 1/2"-8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4"-10 5/8"-11 3/8" from marker after neck edge.
Now divide piece for body and sleeves. Work next round as follows:
Work the first 42-45-47-52-59-66 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 64-78-77-85-88-92 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-10-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 81-87-91-101-115-129 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 64-78-77-85-88-92 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-10-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work the last 39-42-44-49-56-63 stitches as before (= back piece).
Now finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 174-186-198-222-250-278 stitches. Continue in the round with pattern as before, but over the 14-6-12-10-10-10 stitches in each side (i.e. the 6-6-8-10-10-10 new stitches cast on + 4-0-2-0-0-0 stitches on each side of these stitches) work in stockinette stitch.
Continue until piece measures 19-19-18-18-17-17 cm = 7 1/2"-7 1/2"-7"-7"-6 3/4"-6 3/4" from division. Adjust so that the last round is worked as 2nd, 4th, 6th or 8th row in diagram A.3, and work the next round as follows:
Work pattern as before, but skip yarn over in every repetition A.3 (= decrease 1 stitch in each repetition A.3), at the same time increase 4-3-6-5-5-5 stitches evenly over the 14-6-12-10-10-10 stitches knit in each side (= 20-24-24-28-32-36 stitches decreased and 8-6-12-10-10-10 stitches increased on round) = 162-168-186-204-228-252 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Now work rib as follows:
Work the last 2 stitches in A.1, work A.1 until 1 stitch remains on round, work first stitch in A.1 – English rib stitch in A.1 should fit knit stitches in A.3.
Continue rib like this for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Bind off with knit over English rib stitches and purl over purl - read BIND-OFF TIP.
Sweater measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22" from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 64-78-77-85-88-92 stitches from stitch holder in one side back on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8. Pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-10-10-10 new stitches under sleeve = 70-84-85-95-98-102 stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 21-20-19-15-14-13 cm = 8 1/4"-8"-7 1/2"-6"-5 1/2"-5 1/8" from division - try the sweater on and work until desired length (approx. 9 cm = 3 1/2" rib remain until finished measurements), decrease 28-42-40-47-47-51 stitches evenly = 42-42-45-48-51-51 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5. Work A.1 in the round for 9 cm = 3 1/2". Bind off with knit over English rib stitches and purl over purl - read BIND-OFF TIP.
Sleeve measures approx. 30-29-28-24-23-22 cm = 11 3/4"-11 3/8"-11"-9 1/2"-9"-8 3/4" from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 17.03.2021
SADDLE SHOULDERS: ... Now work pattern (1 English rib stitch, purl 2) back and forth until piece measures 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm = 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" ... YOKE: ... Continue in the round with pattern like this (stitches with markers are worked in stockinette stitch) ...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = insert right needle through stitch from previous row/round, knit 1 and slip stitches off the left needle (= English rib stitch)
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 222-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Petra Pörtner 28.05.2021 - 09:39:

Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zur Halsblende. In der Anleitung steht im Rippenmuster A1. Meines Erachtens ist das Rippenmuster A2 zu Stricken. L Petra

user icon DROPS Design 28.05.2021 kl. 15:14:

Liebe Frau Pörtner, die Maschen der Halskante wird abwechslungsweise in A.1: die 17-20 ersten Maschen vom Halb-Rückenteil + die 30-30-30-36-36-36 M vom Vorderteil + die 15-18 letzten Maschen und A.2 für die Schulter je 13-13-15-15-17-17 M; Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Helene 29.03.2021 - 06:20:

Hallo, seit Wochen kreisen meine Gedanken um diesen schönen Sommerpulli. Jetzt haben ich die Zeit gefunden den zu Stricken tu mich aber bei der Wolle schwer. Die empfohlene Wolle sowie die Wolle die am altnativ nehmen kann ist mit Mohair. Ist die Wolle für den Sommer nicht zu kratzig? Merino Wolle für den Sommer finde ich zu dick und Baumwolle kann ich mir nicht vorstellen das die Arme so schönen fallen wie bei dem Foto. Können sie mir da ein Tipp geben? Lg Helene

user icon DROPS Design 06.04.2021 kl. 08:43:

Liebe Helene, am besten wenden Sie sich an Ihrem DROPS Laden, dort wird man Ihnen gerne persönliche Hilfe weitergeben - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Svenja 16.03.2021 - 21:50:

Hallo, wie stricke ich denn die markierten Maschen ab? Im muster A3 oder einfach rechts? LG und Danke?

user icon DROPS Design 17.03.2021 kl. 13:13:

Liebe Svenja, diese Maschen werden glatt rechts gestrickt - diese Information wird dazu geschrieben, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Sussi Christiansen 14.03.2021 - 15:19:

White Water Ks-172 Hej igen, jeg har lavet en strikkeprøve med 2 tråde og det er den jeg har skrevet om, der ikke passer, så hvad gør jeg så😳

user icon DROPS Design 17.03.2021 kl. 15:20:

Hej igen Sussi, i 2 tråde DROPS Kid-Silk? Hvis du strikker meget stramt må du prøve med pind nr 7 for at få 17 masker på 10 cm :)

country flag Sussi Christiansen 11.03.2021 - 11:02:

White Water ks-172 Hej, jeg får 20 masker på pind 6 i glatstrik, skulle strikke str. xl , kan jeg strikke en str. l ,og så få det til at passe i størrelsen. (Opskr. Siger 17 m på pind 5) mvh. Sussi

user icon DROPS Design 11.03.2021 kl. 11:10:

Hej igen Sussi, nej så kommer målene ikke til at stemme. Du skal strikke med 2 tråde DROPS Kid Silk, så vil strikkefastheden også passe :)

country flag Sussi Christiansen 09.03.2021 - 09:51:

Jeg skal strikke White Water model K’s-172. Jeg kan ikke få strikkefastheden til at passe, jeg får 20 masker på pind 6 i glatstrik med kid-silk, kan jeg strikke en str. mindre? Bliver pinden større, bliver blusen for hullet. Mvh. Sussi

user icon DROPS Design 09.03.2021 kl. 12:11:

Hej Sussi, strikker du med 2 tråde/dobbelt tråd, så skal du få 17 masker på 10 cm, får du for mange masker på 10 cm så prøv med tykkere pinde :)

country flag Winny 04.03.2021 - 11:02:

Hallo, ik begrijp niet hoe ik bij de zadelschouder van 15 naar 24 steken ga als ik er 7 moet meerderen. De kantsteek is toch alleen op de naald zetten of moet ik hem ook breien?

user icon DROPS Design 07.03.2021 kl. 10:39:

Dag Winny,

Naast het meerderen heb je aan beide kanten ook nog een kantsteek opgezet, waardoor er in totaal 9 steken bij gekomen zijn.

country flag Steffie Östlund 26.02.2021 - 15:53:

Hur många maskor ska det finnas på sadelaxeln när den är klar vid 8 cm? Stickar den i XXXL.

user icon DROPS Design 03.03.2021 kl. 14:54:

Hej Steffie, du har stadigvæk 27 masker når du har strikket de 8 cm. I næste stykke strikker du masker op langs med siderne på sadelskulderen. God fornøjelse!

country flag Josina 25.02.2021 - 14:23:

Hallo, die Angaben bei der sattelschulter verwirren mich. Soll ich nach der ersten Reihe Zunahmen (von 17M auf 27M) diese in den nächsten 8cm fortführen-also jede linke Masche weiterhin verdoppeln? Oder soll ich ab da die 27M nur noch im Muster stricken?

user icon DROPS Design 25.02.2021 kl. 15:24:

Liebe Josina, die Sattelschulter wird bei der 1. Reihe über 17Maschen gestrickt aber gleichzeitig 1 m beiseitig anschlagen + 1 M in jedem Linken-Bereich zunehmen = 17+2+8 = 27 Maschen nach der 1. Reihe bei der Sattelschulter. Jetzt über diese 27 Maschen hin und zurück (wie zuvor mit die rechten Maschen wie in A.2 und 2 Linken Maschen dazwischen) stricken bis die Arbeit/die Sattelschulter 8 cm misst. Viel spaß beim stricken!

country flag Willemien 21.02.2021 - 12:01:

Graag wil ik dit patoon breien op rechte naalden. Hoe moet ik dan het telpatroon in de teruggaande naald breien? Zoals de steken zich voordoen of het telpatroon van links naar rechts lezen in de tweede naald? Jammer dat er zoveel patronen voor rondbreinaalden staan. Daar heb ik altijd moeite mee. Alvast dank voor de reactie.

user icon DROPS Design 23.02.2021 kl. 13:09:

Dag Willemien,

In de teruggaande naalden moet je dan inderdaad het patroon van links naar rechts lezen. In het telpatroon staat ook aangegeven hoe je de betreffende steken aan de verkeerde kant moet breien. Zorg ervoor dat je de oneven naalden in het telpatroon steeds aan de goede kant hebt.

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