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Ice Island
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Knitted sweater for men in DROPS Karisma. The piece is worked with raglan, cables and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 224-10
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-927
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-104-112-124-132-144 cm = 37¾"-41"-44"-48¾"-52"-56½"
Full length: 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm = 24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½"-28⅜"
All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
800-900-1000-1050-1200-1300 g color 01, off white
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.
KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.10. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.
DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the number of stitches to be decreased/increased over (e.g. 23 stitches), and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 6) = 3.8. In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 3rd and 4th stitch.
When increasing, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
INCREASE TIP (sleeves):
Increase 2 stitches under the sleeve by making 1 yarn over on each side of the marker-stitch as follows: Work the marker-stitch (always the first stitch in A.4), 1 yarn over, pattern as far as the marker-stitch, 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches into A.9/A.10 until you have room for a complete repeat, then work the stitches in A.4.
RAGLAN:
Decrease to raglan on each side of the marker, in each transition between body and sleeves as follows.
FROM RIGHT SIDE:
AFTER THE MARKER: Knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased)
BEFORE THE MARKER: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 1 (= 1 stitch decreased).
FROM WRONG SIDE:
AFTER THE MARKER: Purl 1, purl 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased)
BEFORE THE MARKER: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, purl 2 twisted together, purl 1 (= 1 stitch decreased).
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The body is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the armholes.
The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, bottom up. The body and sleeves are placed on the same circular needle and the yoke worked, decreasing to raglan at the same time. Stiches are bind off for the neck mid-front and the piece continued back and forth. The neck is worked to finish.
BODY:
Cast on 272-288-304-344-360-392 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Karisma. Knit 1 round.
Then work the following rib:
Purl 1, knit 2 * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* over the next 20-24-28-24-28-36 stitches, work A.1 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repeats of 14 stitches), A.2 (= 18 stitches), A.3 (= 26 stitches), A.2, A.1 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repeats of 14 stitches), * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 44-52-60-52-60-76 stitches, knit 2, A.1 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches, A.2, A.3, A.2, A.1 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 20-24-28-24-28-36 stitches, knit 2 and purl 1.
Continue this rib – NOTE: In diagrams A.2 and A.3 repeat the first 2 rounds onwards.
When 1 round remains before the piece measures 5 cm = 2", decrease stitches as follows:
Work stockinette stitch over the first 23-27-31-27-31-39 stitches and decrease 6-6-6-6-6-8 stitches evenly over these stitches – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP,
work A.1 as before over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches, work the last round in A.2 (= 18 stitches, 1 stitch decreased),
work the last round in A.3 (= 26 stitches, 2 stitches decreased),
work the last round in A.2 (= 18 stitches, 1 stitch decreased),
A.1 as before over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches,
work stockinette stitch over the next 46-54-62-54-62-78 stitches and decrease 13-13-13-13-13-17 stitches evenly over these stitches,
A.1 as before over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches,
work the last round in A.2 (= 18 stitches, 1 stitch decreased),
work the last round in A.3 (= 26 stitches, 2 stitches decreased),
work the last round in A.2 (= 18 stitches, 1 stitch decreased),
A.1 as before over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches,
work stockinette stitch over the last 23-27-31-27-31-39 stitches and decrease 7-7-7-7-7-9 stitches evenly over these stitches = 238-254-270-310-326-350 stitches. The rib is now finished.
Insert 1 marker in the first stitch and 1 marker in the 120th-128th-136th-156th-164th-176th stitch (= sides). Allow these markers to follow your work onwards; they are used when binding off for the armholes. Change to circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7.
Work the next round as follows:
A.4 over the first 17-21-25-21-25-31 stitches, A.5 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repeats of 14 stitches), A.6 (= 17 stitches), A.7 (= 24 stitches), A.6, A.8 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repeats of 14 stitches), A.4 over the next 33-41-49-41-49-61 stitches (marker sits in the middle of these stitches), A.5 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches, A.6, A.7, A.6, A.8 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches and A.4 over the last 16-20-24-20-24-30 stitches.
Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 36 cm = 14¼" in all sizes, bind off for the armholes as described below. There is approx. 26-28-30-32-34-36 cm = 10¼"-11"-11¾"-12½"-13⅜"-14¼" left to finished length.
Adjust so that next round is an odd numbered row in the diagrams, and bind off the first 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches, continue the pattern until there are 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches left before the second marker-stitch, bind off 11-11-13-13-15-15 stitches, work until there are 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches left on the round and bind off 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches = 108-116-122-142-148-160 stitches on the front piece and 108-116-122-142-148-160 stitches on the back piece. Cut the strand.
Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves.
SLEEVES:
Cast on 56-60-60-64-64-68 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Karisma.
Knit 1 round, then work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm = 2". Knit 1 round where you increase 19-15-15-19-19-15 stitches evenly spaced – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 75-75-75-83-83-83 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the first stitch – allow the marker to follow your work onwards; it is used when increasing under the sleeve.
Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 MM = US 7.
Work the next round with pattern as follows:
A.4 over the first stitch (marker-stitch), A.9 (= 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches – start the diagram by the mark for your size and work from right to left), A.6 (= 17 stitches), A.7 (= 24 stitches), A.6, A.10 (= 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches – start at the first stitch in A.10 and work from right to left as far as the mark for your size). Continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 8-10-7-8-9-6 cm = 3⅛"-4"-2¾"-3⅛"-3½"-2⅜", increase 2 stitches under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 4-2½-2½-2½-2-2 cm = 1½"-1"-1"-1"-¾"-¾" a total of 11-15-17-15-17-19 times = 97-105-109-113-117-121 stitches – NOTE: The increased stitches are first worked in A.9/A.10 until there is room for a complete repeat, then worked in A.4.
Continue working until the sleeve measures approx. 51-49-48-46-45-43 cm = 20"-19¼"-19"-18"-17¾"-17" (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Try the sleeve on and work to desired length. Adjust so that the next round is an odd numbered row in the diagrams and bind off for the armhole as follows: Bind off the first 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches, work as before until there are 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches left and bind off the last 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches = 86-94-96-100-102-106 stitches. Cut the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 as the body, where stitches were bind off for the armholes (without working the stitches) = 388-420-436-484-500-532 stitches.
Insert a marker thread in each transition between the body and sleeves = 4 marker threads. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when decreasing to raglan.
Start at the transition between the back piece and the left sleeve – you can insert a marker here to show the start of the round.
Continue the pattern as before, with 2 stitches in stockinette stitch on each side of all 4 marker threads.
OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
On the next round start to decrease to raglan; you will also bind off stitches for the neck mid-front and finish working back and forth from mid-front. When there are not enough stitches for the cables, work stockinette stitch over these stitches.
Read RAGLAN and NECK before continuing.
RAGLAN:
Decrease to RAGLAN on each side of all 4 marker threads – read description above.
Decrease every 2nd round a total of 24-27-30-32-36-38 times, then every round 7-7-6-7-4-4 times.
NECK:
When the piece measures 55-57-59-60-62-64 cm = 21⅝"-22½"-23¼"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" (adjust so the next round is an odd round in the diagrams), decrease 6-6-6-10-10-10 stitches evenly over the middle 24-24-24-32-32-32 in front – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP. Then place the middle 30-32-34-42-46-54 stitches on a thread for the neck. Work to the beginning of the round. Cut the strand. Start from the wrong side, by the neck and continue the pattern back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME bind off at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1-1-1-2-2-2 times on each side.
After all the decreases to raglan and neck there are 98-104-102-112-116-124 stitches on the needle. Cut the strand.
DOUBLE NECK:
Start mid-back and knit up 134-142-142-162-170-186 stitches around the neck (including the stitches on the thread and on the needle) with short circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Karisma.
On the next round decrease stitches to avoid the neck being too loose – knit 1 round and decrease to 104-108-112-116-120-124 stitches evenly spaced. Purl 1 round and knit 1 round.
Work the next round as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and knit 1. Continue this rib until the neck measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛"-4"-4"-4". On the next round increase all purl-2 to purl-3 by making 1 yarn over after each purled section (the yarn overs are purled twisted on the next round to avoid holes).
Continue working until the neck measures 11-11-11-13-13-13 cm = 4⅜"-4⅜"-4⅜"-5⅛"-5⅛"-5⅛". Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and cast off loosely. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the opening under each sleeve.
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Diagram explanations |
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.10. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.
DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the number of stitches to be decreased/increased over (e.g. 23 stitches), and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 6) = 3.8. In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 3rd and 4th stitch.
When increasing, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
INCREASE TIP (sleeves):
Increase 2 stitches under the sleeve by making 1 yarn over on each side of the marker-stitch as follows: Work the marker-stitch (always the first stitch in A.4), 1 yarn over, pattern as far as the marker-stitch, 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches into A.9/A.10 until you have room for a complete repeat, then work the stitches in A.4.
RAGLAN:
Decrease to raglan on each side of the marker, in each transition between body and sleeves as follows.
FROM RIGHT SIDE:
AFTER THE MARKER: Knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased)
BEFORE THE MARKER: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 1 (= 1 stitch decreased).
FROM WRONG SIDE:
AFTER THE MARKER: Purl 1, purl 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased)
BEFORE THE MARKER: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, purl 2 twisted together, purl 1 (= 1 stitch decreased).
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The body is worked in the round with circular needle as far as the armholes.
The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, bottom up. The body and sleeves are placed on the same circular needle and the yoke worked, decreasing to raglan at the same time. Stiches are bind off for the neck mid-front and the piece continued back and forth. The neck is worked to finish.
BODY:
Cast on 272-288-304-344-360-392 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Karisma. Knit 1 round.
Then work the following rib:
Purl 1, knit 2 * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* over the next 20-24-28-24-28-36 stitches, work A.1 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repeats of 14 stitches), A.2 (= 18 stitches), A.3 (= 26 stitches), A.2, A.1 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repeats of 14 stitches), * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 44-52-60-52-60-76 stitches, knit 2, A.1 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches, A.2, A.3, A.2, A.1 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 20-24-28-24-28-36 stitches, knit 2 and purl 1.
Continue this rib – NOTE: In diagrams A.2 and A.3 repeat the first 2 rounds onwards.
When 1 round remains before the piece measures 5 cm = 2", decrease stitches as follows:
Work stockinette stitch over the first 23-27-31-27-31-39 stitches and decrease 6-6-6-6-6-8 stitches evenly over these stitches – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP,
work A.1 as before over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches, work the last round in A.2 (= 18 stitches, 1 stitch decreased),
work the last round in A.3 (= 26 stitches, 2 stitches decreased),
work the last round in A.2 (= 18 stitches, 1 stitch decreased),
A.1 as before over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches,
work stockinette stitch over the next 46-54-62-54-62-78 stitches and decrease 13-13-13-13-13-17 stitches evenly over these stitches,
A.1 as before over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches,
work the last round in A.2 (= 18 stitches, 1 stitch decreased),
work the last round in A.3 (= 26 stitches, 2 stitches decreased),
work the last round in A.2 (= 18 stitches, 1 stitch decreased),
A.1 as before over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches,
work stockinette stitch over the last 23-27-31-27-31-39 stitches and decrease 7-7-7-7-7-9 stitches evenly over these stitches = 238-254-270-310-326-350 stitches. The rib is now finished.
Insert 1 marker in the first stitch and 1 marker in the 120th-128th-136th-156th-164th-176th stitch (= sides). Allow these markers to follow your work onwards; they are used when binding off for the armholes. Change to circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7.
Work the next round as follows:
A.4 over the first 17-21-25-21-25-31 stitches, A.5 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repeats of 14 stitches), A.6 (= 17 stitches), A.7 (= 24 stitches), A.6, A.8 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-2-2-2 repeats of 14 stitches), A.4 over the next 33-41-49-41-49-61 stitches (marker sits in the middle of these stitches), A.5 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches, A.6, A.7, A.6, A.8 over the next 14-14-14-28-28-28 stitches and A.4 over the last 16-20-24-20-24-30 stitches.
Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 36 cm = 14¼" in all sizes, bind off for the armholes as described below. There is approx. 26-28-30-32-34-36 cm = 10¼"-11"-11¾"-12½"-13⅜"-14¼" left to finished length.
Adjust so that next round is an odd numbered row in the diagrams, and bind off the first 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches, continue the pattern until there are 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches left before the second marker-stitch, bind off 11-11-13-13-15-15 stitches, work until there are 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches left on the round and bind off 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches = 108-116-122-142-148-160 stitches on the front piece and 108-116-122-142-148-160 stitches on the back piece. Cut the strand.
Lay the piece to one side and work the sleeves.
SLEEVES:
Cast on 56-60-60-64-64-68 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Karisma.
Knit 1 round, then work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm = 2". Knit 1 round where you increase 19-15-15-19-19-15 stitches evenly spaced – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 75-75-75-83-83-83 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the first stitch – allow the marker to follow your work onwards; it is used when increasing under the sleeve.
Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 MM = US 7.
Work the next round with pattern as follows:
A.4 over the first stitch (marker-stitch), A.9 (= 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches – start the diagram by the mark for your size and work from right to left), A.6 (= 17 stitches), A.7 (= 24 stitches), A.6, A.10 (= 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches – start at the first stitch in A.10 and work from right to left as far as the mark for your size). Continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 8-10-7-8-9-6 cm = 3⅛"-4"-2¾"-3⅛"-3½"-2⅜", increase 2 stitches under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 4-2½-2½-2½-2-2 cm = 1½"-1"-1"-1"-¾"-¾" a total of 11-15-17-15-17-19 times = 97-105-109-113-117-121 stitches – NOTE: The increased stitches are first worked in A.9/A.10 until there is room for a complete repeat, then worked in A.4.
Continue working until the sleeve measures approx. 51-49-48-46-45-43 cm = 20"-19¼"-19"-18"-17¾"-17" (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Try the sleeve on and work to desired length. Adjust so that the next round is an odd numbered row in the diagrams and bind off for the armhole as follows: Bind off the first 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches, work as before until there are 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches left and bind off the last 5-5-6-6-7-7 stitches = 86-94-96-100-102-106 stitches. Cut the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
YOKE:
Place the sleeves on the same circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 as the body, where stitches were bind off for the armholes (without working the stitches) = 388-420-436-484-500-532 stitches.
Insert a marker thread in each transition between the body and sleeves = 4 marker threads. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when decreasing to raglan.
Start at the transition between the back piece and the left sleeve – you can insert a marker here to show the start of the round.
Continue the pattern as before, with 2 stitches in stockinette stitch on each side of all 4 marker threads.
OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
On the next round start to decrease to raglan; you will also bind off stitches for the neck mid-front and finish working back and forth from mid-front. When there are not enough stitches for the cables, work stockinette stitch over these stitches.
Read RAGLAN and NECK before continuing.
RAGLAN:
Decrease to RAGLAN on each side of all 4 marker threads – read description above.
Decrease every 2nd round a total of 24-27-30-32-36-38 times, then every round 7-7-6-7-4-4 times.
NECK:
When the piece measures 55-57-59-60-62-64 cm = 21⅝"-22½"-23¼"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" (adjust so the next round is an odd round in the diagrams), decrease 6-6-6-10-10-10 stitches evenly over the middle 24-24-24-32-32-32 in front – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP. Then place the middle 30-32-34-42-46-54 stitches on a thread for the neck. Work to the beginning of the round. Cut the strand. Start from the wrong side, by the neck and continue the pattern back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME bind off at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 1-1-1-2-2-2 times on each side.
After all the decreases to raglan and neck there are 98-104-102-112-116-124 stitches on the needle. Cut the strand.
DOUBLE NECK:
Start mid-back and knit up 134-142-142-162-170-186 stitches around the neck (including the stitches on the thread and on the needle) with short circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Karisma.
On the next round decrease stitches to avoid the neck being too loose – knit 1 round and decrease to 104-108-112-116-120-124 stitches evenly spaced. Purl 1 round and knit 1 round.
Work the next round as follows: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 2 and knit 1. Continue this rib until the neck measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛"-4"-4"-4". On the next round increase all purl-2 to purl-3 by making 1 yarn over after each purled section (the yarn overs are purled twisted on the next round to avoid holes).
Continue working until the neck measures 11-11-11-13-13-13 cm = 4⅜"-4⅜"-4⅜"-5⅛"-5⅛"-5⅛". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the opening under each sleeve.
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purl from right side, knit from wrong side
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place 3 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
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place 2 stitches on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
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place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
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place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 2 from cable needle
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place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, purl 1 from cable needle
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cable worked over 2 stitches as follows: skip the first stitch on the left needle, knit the second stitch on the left needle without slipping it from the needle, then knit the first stitch that was skipped, and slipp both needles from left needle
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knit 2 together
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slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
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Comments / Questions (83)
Lotte Chili Kristensen wrote:
Hvordan ser man om størrelsen passer - hvilke brystmål har drops karisma opskriften til en Str xl Vh slotte
02.02.2024 - 10:51DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lotte, jo du finder måleskitsen nederst i opskriften. Størrelse XL har da et brystmål på 62cm x 2 = 124 cm :)
02.02.2024 - 12:14Picard wrote:
Bonjour est ce que ce modèle existe pour femme , merci
23.01.2024 - 14:26DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Picard, tout à fait, retrouvez la version femme ici. Bon tricot!
24.01.2024 - 08:07Berit wrote:
Varför är det så krånglig beskrivning på resåren? Om jag stickar 28 m A1 och sedan 18m A2 då blir det ju 4 rm efter varandra. Går det att göra som ”vanligt ” att sticka 2rm och 2am, eller finns det någon finess med detta sättet.
13.01.2024 - 13:41Sarangi Ketola wrote:
Hello. Can this pattern knit, top to down instead of down to top?
11.01.2024 - 09:03DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Ketola, it might be possible but you would have to adjust the whole pattern to work it the other way. You might rather work from an existing pattern top down - see jumpers for men worked top down here. Happy knitting!
11.01.2024 - 15:36Angela wrote:
Hi, I'm a little confused in the raglan/neck part. Should I decrease for the neck and set aside those stitches on a thread WHILE doing my raglan decreases (rather than completing the raglan decreases, and THEN decreasing for the neck)? It also seems like something is wrong with the stitch count for size L? It says there should be 34 stitches on the thread, and 102 on the needle (136 stitches total), but then in the Double Neck section it says to knit up 142 stitches. Thanks!
27.12.2023 - 16:26DROPS Design answered:
Dear Angela, while you will shape neck, you have to continue raglan decreases as before, this means after the middle stitches for neck are on a thread, continue back and forth from neck; there were 436 sts - (30+6) x 8 sts decreased for raglan - 34 sts slipped on a thread (- 6 sts decreased) - (2 sts 1 time x 2 sides) - (1 st 1 time x 2 sides) = 102 sts remain. Happy knitting!
02.01.2024 - 08:51Marian Pors wrote:
Ik wil dit patroon breien met Drops cotton- merino. De garencategorie van dit patroon is B. Bij deze categorie wordt geadviseerd te breien met naald dikte 4. Maar in het patroon wordt gesproken over naalddikte 4.5. Waarom dit verschil?
27.10.2023 - 10:13DROPS Design answered:
Dag Marian,
De naalddikte kan van patroon tot patroon verschillen en hoeft niet altijd overeen te komen met de naalddikte die bij het garen staat. Waarschijnlijk is er bij dit patroon voor een andere naalddikte gekozen vanwege de kabels. Waar het uiteindelijk om gaat is dat je proeflapje overeenkomt met die in het patroon.
28.10.2023 - 10:25Lorraine H wrote:
Thank you for your quick response to my previous question about the sleeve increases. In your response: "and at the end of the round, continue diagram (= purl first 2 increases, knit next 2 and purl next 2)" , as this refers to A10, shouldn't this read = purl first 2 increases, knit next 6?
21.10.2023 - 07:27DROPS Design answered:
Dear Lorraine, yes, it should be purl 2 and knit 6 for size L. Happy knitting!
23.10.2023 - 00:10Lorraine H wrote:
Regarding my previous question about the increases to the sleeves, I forgot to mention that I am making the L size. And therefore would be starting A9 with a knit stitch. That is why I was thinking that the first two increases would be knit stitches.
20.10.2023 - 09:23DROPS Design answered:
Thanks for these extra infos - see answer below.
20.10.2023 - 14:07Lorraine H wrote:
To follow up on your answer to Jeffrey, after the first two increases, working the pattern from right to left and incorporating the new stitches into A9, the A9 pattern would be 8 knit stitches and 2 purl stitches? In other words I would be adding a new A9 pattern beginning from the right of the pattern? The same would apply to the A10 pattern?
20.10.2023 - 09:09DROPS Design answered:
Dear Lorraine, work the new stitches mid under sleeve at the beg of the round reading diagram from left to right (= first 2 increases will be purled, then next 2 knitted and next 2) so that A.9 is completed, and at the end of the round, continue diagram (= purl first 2 incrases, knit next 2 and purl next 2), then work the new sts in A.4. Happy knitting!
20.10.2023 - 14:06Corinne wrote:
Bonjour, La description du début dos et devant est bien compliquée et source d'erreurs. Pourquoi ne pas écrire tout simplement qu'il s'agit de tricoter des cotes 2 x 2 jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 1 tour avant que l'ouvrage mesure 5 cm ? A part ça, félicitations pour vos modèles qui sont toujours agréables à réaliser.
19.10.2023 - 16:58