DROPS Children 49 · Lots of new kid designs!
Product image DROPS Fabel yarn
DROPS Fabel
 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 4.05 CAD /50g
DROPS Needles & Hooks
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.20CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Accessories
  4. Hats
  5. Beanies
  6. DROPS
  7. 151
  8. 41

Ursula

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS hat and neck warmer with domino squares in ”Fabel”.

Change language:

Highlight Size:
DROPS 151-41

#ursulaset

DROPS design: Pattern no fa-251
Yarn group A
-----------------------------------------------------------
HAT:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm / 21"/22" – 22½"/23½"
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100-100 g color no 547, gray/brown


NECK WARMER:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Measurements: Circumference at the bottom: approx. 118-126 cm / 46½"-49½". Circumference at the top: approx. 30-32 cm / 11 ¾"-12½".
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100-150 g color no 547, gray/brown

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24") size 3.5 mm / US 4 – or size needed to get 23 sts x 46 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".
DROPS SEASHELL BUTTON, NO 525: 6 pieces for all sizes

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

You might also like...

Women Accessories Hats Neck Warmers Beaniesdiagonal-knit domino garter stitch
related pattern
related pattern
Product image DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 4.05 CAD /50g
DROPS Needles & Hooks
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.20CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K 2 rows.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band on first domino square. Beg on 8th row from beg (= 1st row from RS over all sts) and dec as follows: K 3, * 1 YO, K 2 tog, K 8-9 * repeat from *-* 5 times in total, 1 YO, K 2 tog and K the rest of row (with dec in domino square as before).

SHORT ROWS (HAT):
Over the last 41-43 sts (seen from WS) work short rows as follows:
Row 1 = from WS: K 32-34, turn.
Row 2 = from RS: K back.
Row 3 = from WS: K 23-25, turn.
Row 4 = from RS: K back.
Row 5 = from WS: K over all 41-43 sts.
Row 6 = from RS: K all sts.
Repeat rows 1 to 6.

SHORT ROWS (NECK WARMER):
Over the last 46-50 sts (seen from WS) work short rows as follows:
Row 1 = from WS: K 21-25, turn.
Row 2 = from RS: K back.
Row 3 = from WS: K 14-17, turn.
Row 4 = from RS: K back.
Row 5 = from WS: K 4-6, turn.
Row 6 = from RS: K back.
Row 7 = from WS: K over all 46-50 sts.
Row 8 = from RS: K all sts.
Repeat row 1 to 8.

DOMINO SQUARE:
Insert 1 marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K until 1 st remains before st with marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K rest of row.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. dec 2 sts in the middle of the square on every other row until 1 st remains, cut the yarn and pull it through remaining st.

KNITTING TIP:
Pick up sts along the side on domino square in front loop of outermost st. Then the hat looks nice on both sides and can be worn both ways.

----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:
Worked sideways, back and forth on circular needle and sewn tog when finished. Hat can be turned and worn both ways.
Cast on 78-80 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Fabel. Work all sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above. K 1 row from RS over all sts.
Then work as follows (1st row = WS): * Work DOMINO SQUARE – see explanation above – over the first 37-37 sts, AT THE SAME TIME work SHORT ROWS – see explanation above – over the next 41-43 sts. Continue like this until domino square has been worked, K 1 row from WS over the remaining 41-43 sts.
Work next row as follows from RS: K over the first 41-43 sts, pick up 19-19 sts along the side on domino square – READ KNITTING TIP, cast on 18-18 new sts on needle = 78-80 sts *.
Repeat from *-* until 6-7 domino squares have been worked in total (on last domino square bind off with K from WS when domino square has been worked).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog the cast-on and bind-off edge. Baste a strand of yarn through sts along the upper edge and tighten the hat tog.

----------------------------------------------------------

NECK WARMER:
Work sideways back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 79-83 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Fabel. Work all sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above. K 1 row from RS over all sts. * Then work as follows (1st row = WS). Work DOMINO SQUARE – see explanation above – over the first 33-33 sts, AT THE SAME TIME work SHORT ROWS – see explanation above – over the next 46-50 sts.
Continue like this until domino square has been worked – Remember BUTTONHOLES – see explanation above.
When domino square has been worked, K 1 row from WS over the remaining sts. Work next row as follows from RS: K over the first 46-50 sts, pick up 17-17 sts along the side on domino square, cast on 16-16 new sts on needle = 79-83 sts *. Repeat from *-* until 16-17 domino squares have been worked in total (on last domino square bind off with K from WS when domino square has been worked).
Sew on buttons.
© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #ursulaset or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 151-41

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Mamieflo wrote:

Bonjour Nathalie Je me sens un peu perdue 1. DOMINO Je fais S/M donc Domino marqueur à la maille 19 mais ensuite, 18 de chaque côté. ensuite on n'a plus ce marqueur 2.RANGS RACCOURCIS si je comprends on fait les 6 rangs à la suite AU 6ème rang sur l'endroit, on tricote toutes les mailles et on arrive à nouveau sur les 2 rangs DOMINO. EST-CE BIEN CELA ?? Merci

17.10.2016 - 15:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mamieflo, on tricote le domino sur les 37 premières m (le marqueur doit bien rester dans la m centrale jusqu'à la fin), et les rangs raccourcis sur les 41 dernières m vu sur l'envers. Au 1er rang sur l'envers, tricotez les 37 m du domino + 32 m (il en reste 9), tournez et tricotez le rang suivant sur l'end sur ces m (dim. pour le domino). Au rang 3, tricotez les 35 m du domino, puis 23 des 41 m (=il reste 18 m en fin de rang), Tournez et tricotez ces m (dim. pour le domino). Puis tricotez 2 rangs sur toutes les m (celles du domino + les 41 m en fin de rang sur l'envers) en dim. pour le domino au rang sur l'endroit. Répétez ainsi ces 6 rangs. Bon tricot!

17.10.2016 - 16:26

country flag Agnes wrote:

Hvor er den smuk Agnes

29.06.2013 - 18:40

country flag Ammetz wrote:

Playful and eye-catching--great design.

28.06.2013 - 13:35

country flag Annie wrote:

Hat and collar are both really ugly!

26.06.2013 - 13:36

country flag Petra wrote:

Sieht nach einer kleinen Herausforderung aus, würde es zuerst für Kinder probieren, dann für mich, interessantes Muster

21.06.2013 - 19:55

country flag Claudotte wrote:

J'ai hâte d'avoir les explications, car cela fera un magnifique cadeaux pour toute ma progéniture fille

19.06.2013 - 13:35

country flag Hanna wrote:

Sieht das raffiniert aus!

11.06.2013 - 17:14

country flag Antje wrote:

Sehr, sehr schön. Ganz toller Farbverlauf. Freue mich schon. Auch gaanz tolles edles Weihnachtsgeschenk!

10.06.2013 - 14:12

country flag Moni wrote:

JA! Meine Schultern und mein Nacken freuen sich schon auf diesen Kragen. Super finde ich die 6 Knöpfe zum Öffnen.

01.06.2013 - 22:34

country flag Andrea wrote:

Mein Namensvorschlag ist Edelkastanie: es erinnert mich an Herbstspaziergaenge kuschlig warm eingepackt, heisse Marroni am Weihnachtsmarkt, Leckereien wie Vermincelle und creme de marron...

01.06.2013 - 13:06

Drops Design logo

Ursula

#ursulaset

Ursula / DROPS 151-41 - Set consists of: Knitted DROPS hat and neck warmer with domino squares in ”Fabel”.
Ursula / DROPS 151-41 - Set consists of: Knitted DROPS hat and neck warmer with domino squares in ”Fabel”.

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS hat and neck warmer with domino squares in ”Fabel”.

DROPS 151-41
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-251
Yarn group A
-----------------------------------------------------------
HAT:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm / 21"/22" – 22½"/23½"
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100-100 g color no 547, gray/brown


NECK WARMER:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Measurements: Circumference at the bottom: approx. 118-126 cm / 46½"-49½". Circumference at the top: approx. 30-32 cm / 11 ¾"-12½".
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100-150 g color no 547, gray/brown

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24") size 3.5 mm / US 4 – or size needed to get 23 sts x 46 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".
DROPS SEASHELL BUTTON, NO 525: 6 pieces for all sizes

GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K 2 rows.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band on first domino square. Beg on 8th row from beg (= 1st row from RS over all sts) and dec as follows: K 3, * 1 YO, K 2 tog, K 8-9 * repeat from *-* 5 times in total, 1 YO, K 2 tog and K the rest of row (with dec in domino square as before).

SHORT ROWS (HAT):
Over the last 41-43 sts (seen from WS) work short rows as follows:
Row 1 = from WS: K 32-34, turn.
Row 2 = from RS: K back.
Row 3 = from WS: K 23-25, turn.
Row 4 = from RS: K back.
Row 5 = from WS: K over all 41-43 sts.
Row 6 = from RS: K all sts.
Repeat rows 1 to 6.

SHORT ROWS (NECK WARMER):
Over the last 46-50 sts (seen from WS) work short rows as follows:
Row 1 = from WS: K 21-25, turn.
Row 2 = from RS: K back.
Row 3 = from WS: K 14-17, turn.
Row 4 = from RS: K back.
Row 5 = from WS: K 4-6, turn.
Row 6 = from RS: K back.
Row 7 = from WS: K over all 46-50 sts.
Row 8 = from RS: K all sts.
Repeat row 1 to 8.

DOMINO SQUARE:
Insert 1 marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K until 1 st remains before st with marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K rest of row.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. dec 2 sts in the middle of the square on every other row until 1 st remains, cut the yarn and pull it through remaining st.

KNITTING TIP:
Pick up sts along the side on domino square in front loop of outermost st. Then the hat looks nice on both sides and can be worn both ways.

----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:
Worked sideways, back and forth on circular needle and sewn tog when finished. Hat can be turned and worn both ways.
Cast on 78-80 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Fabel. Work all sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above. K 1 row from RS over all sts.
Then work as follows (1st row = WS): * Work DOMINO SQUARE – see explanation above – over the first 37-37 sts, AT THE SAME TIME work SHORT ROWS – see explanation above – over the next 41-43 sts. Continue like this until domino square has been worked, K 1 row from WS over the remaining 41-43 sts.
Work next row as follows from RS: K over the first 41-43 sts, pick up 19-19 sts along the side on domino square – READ KNITTING TIP, cast on 18-18 new sts on needle = 78-80 sts *.
Repeat from *-* until 6-7 domino squares have been worked in total (on last domino square bind off with K from WS when domino square has been worked).

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog the cast-on and bind-off edge. Baste a strand of yarn through sts along the upper edge and tighten the hat tog.

----------------------------------------------------------

NECK WARMER:
Work sideways back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 79-83 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Fabel. Work all sts in GARTER ST - see explanation above. K 1 row from RS over all sts. * Then work as follows (1st row = WS). Work DOMINO SQUARE – see explanation above – over the first 33-33 sts, AT THE SAME TIME work SHORT ROWS – see explanation above – over the next 46-50 sts.
Continue like this until domino square has been worked – Remember BUTTONHOLES – see explanation above.
When domino square has been worked, K 1 row from WS over the remaining sts. Work next row as follows from RS: K over the first 46-50 sts, pick up 17-17 sts along the side on domino square, cast on 16-16 new sts on needle = 79-83 sts *. Repeat from *-* until 16-17 domino squares have been worked in total (on last domino square bind off with K from WS when domino square has been worked).
Sew on buttons.

Have you finished this pattern?

Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #ursulaset or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Do you need help with this pattern?

You'll find 13 tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com.
Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store that sold you the yarn.

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site.