DROPS Baby / 33 / 21

Ready to Play Romper by DROPS Design

Knitted play suit for baby with cables and moss stitch in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size 1 - 24 months.

  • Ready to Play Romper / DROPS Baby 33-21 - Knitted play suit for baby with cables and moss stitch in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size 1 - 24 months.
  • Ready to Play Romper / DROPS Baby 33-21 - Knitted play suit for baby with cables and moss stitch in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size 1 - 24 months.
  • Ready to Play Romper / DROPS Baby 33-21 - Knitted play suit for baby with cables and moss stitch in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size 1 - 24 months.
  • Ready to Play Romper / DROPS Baby 33-21 - Knitted play suit for baby with cables and moss stitch in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size 1 - 24 months.
  • Ready to Play Romper / DROPS Baby 33-21 - Knitted play suit for baby with cables and moss stitch in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size 1 - 24 months.
DROPS design: Pattern me-065-by
Yarn group B
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 - 24 months
Size in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 – 92
Size in feet: 1ft 10/2ft – 2ft3/2ft5 – 2ft7/2ft9 - 3ft

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 38-40-42-46 cm = 15”-15 3/4”-16 1/2”-18”
Full length: 31-35-39-43 cm = 12 1/4”-13 3/4”-15 1/4”-17”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-150-150-200 g color 37, misty forest

KNITTING GAUGE:
22 stitches in width and 30 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm = US 4, length 40 cm = 16” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5, length 40 cm = 16” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 2 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 2 stitches remain before A.1, decrease as follows: Knit 2 together, work stitches in A.1, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over.

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

PLAY SUIT – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is worked back and forth in 2 parts, bottom up to after leg opening. Then work piece in the round before dividing at the waist, and finishing front piece back and forth on needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 14-16-18-20 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 with Merino Extra Fine and work in stockinette stitch back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME cast on 2 new stitches at the end of every row 9-9-9-10 times in total in each side = 50-52-54-60 stitches on needle and piece measures approx. 6-6-6-7 cm = 2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/4”. Put piece aside and work the front piece.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 14-16-18-20 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 with Merino Extra Fine and work in stockinette stitch back and forth for 5-5-5-6 cm = 2”-2”-2”-2 3/4”.
SIZE 1/3 months - 6/9 months - 12/18 months: Now cast on 6 new stitches at the end of every row 3 times in total each side.
SIZE 24 months: Cast on 6 new stitches in each side at the end of every row 2 times, then 8 new stitches in each side 1 time = 50-52-54-60 stitches on needle and piece measures approx. 7-7-7-8 cm = 2 3/4”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/8”.

BODY:
Slip stitches from front and back piece on to same circular needle = 100-104-108-120 stitches on needle. Insert 1 marker in each side (= 50-52-54-60 stitches between markers) - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue to work - beginning of the round should be 8 stitches before first marker thread. Work A.1 (= 16 stitches), stockinette stitch over the next 34-36-38-44 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.1 (= 16 stitches), stockinette stitch over the next 34-36-38-44 stitches in stockinette stitch. Marker threads are in the middle of A.1 in each side.

Continue this pattern in the round. When piece measures 2-3-5-7 cm = 3/4”-1 1/8”-2”-2 3/4”, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both A.1 - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Repeat decrease every 2 cm = 3/4” 4 times in total = 84-88-92-104 stitches on needle. When piece measures 10-11-14-16 cm = 4”-4 3/8”-5 1/2”-6 1/4” from markers (piece measures approx. 17-18-21-24 cm = 6 3/4”-7”-8 1/4”-9 1/2” from cast-on edge) work an elevation at the back as follows: work knit over knit and A.1 over A.1 as before over the first 58-60-62-68 stitches,, i.e. until after the second repetition of A.1 (= front piece), knit until 5 stitches remain before A.1 at the beginning of round, turn and purl back until 5 stitches remain before A.1 in the other side, turn piece. Knit until 10 stitches remain before A.1, turn piece and purl until 10 stitches remain before A.1 in the other side. Turn piece and knit until the middle of the first A.1.

Switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work 1 round as before over all stitches, AT THE SAME TIME increase 1 stitch between every A.1 = 86-90-94-106 stitches – NOTE: To avoid holes at every turn pick up loop between 2 stitches and knit twisted together with next stitch on needle. Work next round as follows: Continue with A.2 over the first 8 stitches (= make sure to begin on same row that should have been worked in A.1), work rib purl 1/knit 1 over the next 27-29-31-37 stitches, work A.3 over the next 8 stitches (= make sure to begin on same row that should have been worked in A.1), work rib purl 1/knit 1 over the next 43-45-47-53 stitches. When piece measures 1 ½ cm = 1/2”, work a row eyelet holes as follows: Work as before over the first 8 stitches, purl 1, * knit 1, purl 1, 1 yarn over, knit 2 together*, repeat from *-* over the next 24-28-28-36 stitches, work 10-8-10-8 stitches as before, purl 1, * knit 1, purl 1, 1 yarn over, knit 2 together*, repeat from *-* over the next 40-44-44-52 stitches, work 2-0-2-0 stitches as before. Then continue pattern and rib as before, until 1 round remains before rib measures 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Work next round as follows: Work over the first 43-45-47-53 stitches (= front piece), LOOSELY bind off the next 43-45-47-53 stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl (= back piece).

FRONT PIECE:
Insert 1 marker, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 and work first row from right side as follows: Continue A.2 over the first 8 stitches on needle, 27-29-31-37 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.3 over the last 8 stitches on needle. Continue like this back and forth. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 1-0-0-1 cm = 3/8”-0”-0”-3/8”, decrease 1 stitch in each side - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat decrease every 2nd-4th-6th-6th needle 7-7-6-6 times in total = 29-31-35-41 stitches remain on needle. When piece measures 7-9-11-12 cm = 2 3/4”-3 1/2”-4 3/8”-4 3/4” from marker - adjust so that next row is from right side), work 6 rows with A.4 over stitches between A.2 and A.3 in each side. Work next row as follows from right side: work 8 stitches (= A.2) and slip these stitches on 1 stitch holder for shoulder strap, bind off the next 13-15-19-25 stitches and work the last 8 stitches (= A.3, shoulder strap).

SHOULDER STRAP:
Continue in A.3 back and forth until shoulder strap measures approx. 18 to 24 cm = 7” to 9 1/2” (or desired length). Bind off. Continue in A.2 back and forth until the other shoulder strap measures approx. 18 to 24 cm = 7” to 9 1/2” (or desired length). Bind off.

ASSEMBLY:

RIB EDGE:
Pick up from right side approx. 50 to 58 stitches along one opening for leg on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with Merino Extra Fine. Purl 1 row from wrong side AT THE SAME TIME increase evenly to 58-62-66-70 stitches. Then work rib = knit 2/purl 2 back and forth with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When edge measures 2-4 cm = 3/4”-1 1/2”, loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Repeat along the other leg.

Sew opening between legs inside 1 edge stitch - i.e. sew together one rib edge, then sew seam between leg openings and finally the other rib edge.

Fasten a button at the bottom on each shoulder strap. Use holes in eyelet row on rib to button.

TIE:
Cut 2 lengths Merino Extra Fine yarn of approx. 3 metres = 120”. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Begin mid front and thread tie up and down through eyelet row on rib in waist.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 15.09.2020
Correction: BODY: ... When piece measures 1 ½ cm = 1/2", work a row eyelet holes as follows: Work as before over the first 8 stitches, purl 1, * knit 1, purl 1, 1 yarn over, knit 2 together*, repeat from *-* over the next 24-28-28-36 stitches, work 10-8-10-8 stitches as before, purl 1, * knit 1, purl 1, 1 yarn over, knit 2 together*, repeat from *-* over the next 40-44-44-52 stitches, work 2-0-2-0 stitches as before.
Updated online: 05.10.2020
Correction: Under BODY there have been corrections in explanation for how to work an elevation at the back.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
symbols = slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 33-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Ivanete Aguillera Dias 06.03.2021 - 15:25:

Muito lindo este trabalho. Pretendo adaptá-lo para máquina de tricô.

country flag Vibeke 01.03.2021 - 23:07:

Avsnitt 3 under «Bol»: «Bytt til rundpinne 3 og strikk 1 omgang som før over alle masker, SAMTIDIG som det økes 1 maske mellom hver A.1» Betyr dette rundt hele eller bare bakstykket? Og HVOR mellom A1ene skal masken økes? Ser at også Lone har spurt om dette uten å få ordentlig svar.

user icon DROPS Design 03.03.2021 kl. 07:46:

Hei Vibeke, Du har A.1 på hver siden av bolen og du skal øke 1 maske mellom hver A.1, så det blir 2 masker. i tillegg til maskene allerede på pinnen. Det kan økes ved siden av A.1 for at det skal være minst synlig. God fornøyelse!

country flag Sandra 17.02.2021 - 17:19:

Zur einfacheren Klärung: meine Frage bezieht sich auf folgendes Modell: "Ready to Play Romper by DROPS Design" DROPS Design: Modell me-065-by in Größe 56/62

user icon DROPS Design 18.02.2021 kl. 08:52:

Liebe Sandra, es sind genau 26 M zwischen beiden A.1 für das Rückenteil, bei der 1. verkürzten Reihe stricken Sie bis 5 M bleiben vor A.1 (= 21 M), wenden und bis 5 M vor A.1 auf den anderen Seiten bleiben (= 16 M), wenden und bis 10 M vor A.1 bleiben (= 11 M) wenden und bis 10 M vor A.1 bleiben (= 6 M), die verkürzten Reihen sind fertig. Wenden Sie jetzt und die nächste Hinreihe bis in der Mitte von 1. A.1 stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Sandra 17.02.2021 - 17:10:

Wie wird die Erhöhung hinten gearbeitet? Laut Beschreibung wird der Abschnitt für die Erhöhung um 30 M (2x5 M und 2x10 M vor den A1) verringert. Die hintere Mitte besteht bei mir (kleinste Größe) allerdings nur noch aus 26 Maschen zwischen beiden A1 -> wende ich nach der linke Rückreihe, um 10 M übrig zu lassen, habe ich nur noch 6 M auf der Nadel, obwohl hier 10 M vor dem A1 vor dem nächsten Wenden stehen sollten, um dann noch zur Mitte zwischen beiden A1 zu kommen.

country flag Susanne Lövmark Ek 16.02.2021 - 21:07:

Byt till rundsticka 3 och sticka 1 varv som förut över alla maskor, (Då är jag ju på avigan av bakstycket om det bara är bakstycket jag ska sticka detta "varv" på?)SAMTIDIGT som det ökas 1 maska mellan varje A.1 = 86-90-94-106 maskor – OBS: För att undvika hål vid varje vändning hämtas öglan mellan 2 maskor upp och stickas vridet räta (Men i och med det står RÄTA så antar jag det är på räta sidan jag är?!)tillsammans med nästa maska på stickan. 

country flag Susanne Lövmark Ek 14.02.2021 - 14:00:

Det står ingenstans att varvet ska börja 8 m före markören dräkten VÄNSTRA sida. Jag har börjat på motsatt sida. Det ställer ju till det för mig nu när jag ska börja med höjningen bak. Hur tycker ni jag ska göra? Kan jag bara sticka ett extra varv på bakstycket och sedan låtsas starta om varvet på vänstra sidan så jag kan läsa mönstret rätt

country flag Lone 01.02.2021 - 17:40:

Der står skift til rund pind 3 og strik en omgang som før, det var jo kun over bagstk og ikke en hel omgang ligeledes står der at der tages 1 maske ud mellem hver A1 Kan i beskrive det på en anden måde så jeg kan finde ud af det. På forhånd tak.

user icon DROPS Design 05.02.2021 kl. 14:59:

Hej Lone, Hvor langt er du kommet i opskriften. Er det evt lettere at forstå hvis vi skrive strik en omgang/pind som før?

country flag Charlotte 28.12.2020 - 08:00:

Bonjour, quel fil d’été recommandez vous à la place de mérinos extrafine pour ce modèle ? Muskat est possible ? Ou coton mérino ? Merci ☺️

user icon DROPS Design 28.12.2020 kl. 09:11:

Bonjour Charlotte! Toutes les deux sont possibles. Pour plus d’options essayez notre convertisseur ICI. Comment remplacer un fil ou une quantité vous trouverez ICI. Bon tricot!

country flag Pia Larsen 07.12.2020 - 19:39:

Ang. forhøjning bagpå. I skriver: skift til rundpind 3 og strik 1 omgang som før over alle masker. Hvad betyder det? Så skriver I OBS. For at undgå hul.... hentes løkken op....... henviser I her til at jeg skulle gøre det, da jeg lavede den tidligere forhøjning? Mvh Pia

user icon DROPS Design 10.12.2020 kl. 15:44:

Hej Pia, nej det skal du gøre på denne omgang du er kommet til, over hver af de huller du har fået ved tidligere vendinger. God fornøjelse!

country flag Kim 19.11.2020 - 15:44:

Une fois qu'on a fini le dos et qu'on le met en attente pour faire le devant, est-ce qu'on doit couper le fil pour commencer le devant ?

user icon DROPS Design 19.11.2020 kl. 16:02:

Bonjour Kim, tout à fait, coupez le fil à la fin du dos, tricotez le devant et, à la fin du devant, vous glisserez les mailles du dos sur la même aiguille que celles du devant. Bon tricot!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 33-21

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

From the #dropsfan gallery

Ready to Play Romper

Katharina B, Norway

Ready to Play Romper

Strikkenerden, Norway

Ready to Play Romper

Cécile, Germany