DROPS / 218 / 3

Ice Castles Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Puna. Piece knitted with textured pattern and cables. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern pu-046
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-102-114-126-138-148 cm = 38 1/2”-40”-45”-49 1/2”-54 1/4”-58 1/8”
Full length: 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19”-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-450-500-550-600 g color 01, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: Length 40, 60 and 80 cm = 16”, 24” and 32”.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Puna natural DROPS Puna natural 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Puna natural mix DROPS Puna natural mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Puna uni colour DROPS Puna uni colour 4.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 225 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 9) = 25.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 25th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
To decrease in this example work every 24th and 25th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. Work yarn overs twisted on next round to avoid holes - work the new stitches in A.2.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Piece is knitted in the round on circular needle up to armhole, then divide the piece and work front piece and back piece separately. Work sleeves in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles before decreasing for sleeve cap, and continue sleeve back and forth on needle.

BODY:
Cast on 207-225-243-261-288-315 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 with Puna. Knit 1 round, then work pattern over all stitches according to A.1 (= 23-25-27-29-32-35 repetitions of 9 stitches on round). Continue with A.1 over all stitches until piece measures approx. 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm = 6”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2”-8”, adjust after one whole repetition of A.1 vertically. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH over all stitches – see explanation above, on last round adjust number of stitches to 204-216-240-264-288-312. Insert 1 marker thread in each side; one at the beginning of round and one after 102-108-120-132-144-156 stitches= sides. Then work pattern as follows - from beginning of round: A.2 over the first 14-17-23-29-35-41 stitches (finish with the first 2 stitches in A.2), A.3 (= 12 stitches), A.4 (= 8 stitches), A.5 (= 34 stitches), A.4, A.3, A.6 over the next 28-34-46-58-70-82 stitches (finish with first stitch in A.6), A.3, A.4, A.5, A.4, A.3, A.6 over the last 14-17-23-29-35-41 stitches (finish with the first 2 stitches in A.6).

Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm = 9 3/4”-10 1/4”-10 5/8”-11”-11 3/8”-11 3/4”, work next round as follows: Bind off the 3-3-3-4-4-4 first stitches on round, work 96-102-114-124-136-148 stitches, bind off 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches, work 96-102-114-124-136-148 stitches, bind off the last 3-3-3-4-4-4 stitches. Each part is worked separately back and forth on needle. Slip the first 96-102-114-124-136-148 stitches on a stitch holder, and work over the last 96-102-114-124-136-148 stitches on back piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 96-102-114-124-136-148 stitches. Continue with pattern as before, and continue to bind off for armhole in each side on every other row as follows: 2 stitches 1-1-2-3-4-5 times and 1 stitch 1-2-4-5-6-8 times = 90-94-98-102-108-112 stitches.

When piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18”-19”-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22", bind off the middle 38-40-40-42-42-44 stitches for neck, and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off 1 stitch on next row towards the neck = 25-26-28-29-32-33 stitches. Continue with pattern until piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19”-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4" (= 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm = 9”-9 1/2”-9 3/4”-10 1/4”-10 5/8”-11” from beginning of armhole), bind off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 96-102-114-124-136-148 stitches. Continue with pattern and to bind off for armhole in the sides as on back piece = 90-94-98-102-108-112 stitches. When piece measures 42-44-46-48-49-51 cm = 16 1/2”-17 1/4”-18”-19”-19 1/4”-20”, slip the middle 30-32-32-34-34-36 stitches on a stitch holder for neck, and finish shoulders separately. Then bind off stitches on every row from neck as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 3 times = 25-26-28-29-32-33 stitches remain on each shoulder. Continue with pattern until piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19”-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4" (= 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm = 9”-9 1/2”-9 3/4”-10 1/4”-10 5/8”-11” from beginning of armhole), bind off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/ circular needle, bottom up. Divide piece when decreasing for sleeve cap and work back and forth on needle.

Cast on 54-54-54-63-63-63 stitches on double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 with Puna. Knit 1 round, then work pattern over all stitches according to A.1 (= 6-6-6-7-7-7 repetitions of 9 stitches on round). Continue with A.1 over all stitches until piece measures approx. 11 cm = 4 3/8”, adjust after one whole repetition of A.1 vertically. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH over all stitches – see explanation above, on last round adjust number of stitches to 54-56-58-60-64-66. Insert a marker thread at beginning of round = mid under sleeve. Continue as follows: 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, work A.2 over the next 52-54-56-58-62-64 stitches, finish with 1 stitch in stockinette stitch. Continue this pattern, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm = 4 3/4”, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - READ INCREASE TIP. Increase on every 2-1½-1½-1½-1-1 cm = 3/4”-1/2”-1/2”-1/2”-3/8”-3/8” 17-18-20-21-23-24 times in total = 88-92-98-102-110-114 stitches. When piece measures 46-46-45-43-42-40 cm = 18”-18”-17 3/4”-17”-16 1/2”-15 3/4”, bind off 3 stitches on each side of marker thread (= 6 stitches bind off mid under sleeve), then work sleeve back and forth. Bind off for sleeve cap at beginning of every row in each side as follows: 2 stitches 4-4-4-5-5-6 times, 1 stitch 0-0-1-2-3-4 times. Then bind off 2 stitch in each side until piece measures 52 cm = 20 1/2” in all sizes, bind off 3 stitches in each side, then bind off the remaining stitches. Sleeve measures 53 cm = 21” in all sizes. Work another sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Begin from right side with Puna and a short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 - pick up approx. 96 to 106 stitches (including stitches from stitch holder and divisible by 2). Purl 1 round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round, knit 1 round. Work rib (knit 1/purl 1) in the round for 10 cm = 4”. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 09.09.2020
Correction: New diagram A.5.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
= slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
= slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, purl 1 from cable needle
= slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 1 from cable needle
= slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, purl stitch from cable needle
= slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 218-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (18)

Josan 15.10.2020 - 10:25:

Hallo, ik ben met veel plezier aan deze trui begonnen. Het wordt heel mooi alleen kom ik er te laat achter dat A3 op de foto halverwege het patroon begint. Ik heb dat in de beschrijving niet terug kunnen vinden en ga het ook niet meer uithalen. Misschien aanpassen voor toekomstige brekers. Groeten, Josan

Andrea Laboissière 13.10.2020 - 12:13:

Merci pour la réponse. La tension est la même mais je pense qu'un échantillon en jersey n'a pas de sens pour un motif en torsades, droit/envers etc. Ce motif rétrécit la largeur, forcément. Comment donc calculer la taille, le nombre de mailles en plus pour obtenir une largeur de 49 cm? Malheureusement, pas de magasin dans ma ville. J'ai commandé en ligne.

DROPS Design 13.10.2020 kl. 13:01:

Bonjour Mme Laboissière, l'échantillon est toujours donné en jersey, les mesures sont toujours celles de l'ouvrage terminé (= donc sur la base du nombre de mailles indiqué soit plus de mailles que si on les tricotait en jersey dans ce cas-là) - Nous ne sommes pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande mais votre magasin saura vous aider également par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Andrea Laboissière 13.10.2020 - 07:30:

Je corrige mon message précédent: au lieu de 49 cm, j'obtiens 42 cm à peine en suivant le modèle.

Andrea Laboissière 13.10.2020 - 07:28:

J'ai le problème suivant: J'ai fait un échantillon en jersey avec Puna, tout est parfait. Mais quand je tricote ce pull (avec torsades etc), les mesures ne vont plus du tout. C'est-à-dire, pour la taille S avec le nombre de mailles correct, je n'obtiens pas 49 cm de largeur mais 4cm à peine. J'ai essayé avec la taille M, c'est toujours trop étroit. Les mesures du pull tricoté en jersey ou avec des torsades, ce n'est pas la même chose. Que faire? Qui a déjà fait ce pull?

DROPS Design 13.10.2020 kl. 12:09:

Bonjour Mme Laboissière, conservez bien la même tension que pour votre échantillon pour avoir les bonnes mesures finales. N'hésitez pas à montrer votre ouvrage à votre magasin (même en photo par mail), ils pourront fort probablement vous aider plus facilement en voyant votre ouvrage. Bon Tricot!

Nina 18.09.2020 - 12:46:

Hei Aila ja Irene, Hae mallikuviot saksankielisestä ohjeesta.

Irene 17.09.2020 - 12:25:

Missä mallikuviksi ohje on .

DROPS Design 23.09.2020 kl. 17:47:

Hei, nyt piirrokset aukeavat.

Aila Siltala 14.09.2020 - 19:58:

Mallineule kuvio puuttuu

Suse 14.09.2020 - 11:01:

Ich nochmal , sorry... ich meine am Anfang nicht schon in der Teilung... die MAschen passen nicht beim Rumpfteil. Das heißt in der Anleitung: A.4, A.3, A.6 über die nächsten 28-34-46-58-70-82 Maschen....... das stimmt nicht, deshab stimmt die MAschenanzahl dann auch nicht. Aber ich habe den Fehler nach Stunden gefunden.... es muss heißen A4,A3, A2 nicht A 6 , da liegt der Fehler. Liebe Grüße Suse... jetzt passt es auch alles zusammen

DROPS Design 14.09.2020 kl. 16:14:

Liebe Suse, eine Korrektur kommt - A.6 endet am Ende der Runde mit den 2 ersten Maschen in A.6 (damit es passt mit A.2). Danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Suse 12.09.2020 - 10:50:

Noch ein Fehler... wenn ich nach Teilung das Muster anfange, dann habe ich bei Größe S , wenn ich A 4,A3,A6 und enden mit der 1. Masche A6 nicht 28 Maschen sondern 24 MAschen. Ich komme einfach nicht weiter, hier ist so Einiges falsch. Die Angaben stimmen nicht.

DROPS Design 14.09.2020 kl. 08:23:

Liebe Suse, bei der Teilung werden 6 Maschen beidseitig für jedes Armloch abgkettet; es war 14 Maschen beidseitig von jedem Markierern, jetzt haben Sie nur noch 14-3= 11 Maschn von A.2/A.6, dh die 102 Maschen sehen jetzt so aus: 11 M (A.2/A.6)+12 (A.3)+8 (A.4)+34 (A.5)+8 (A.4)+12 (A.3)+11 (A.6)= 96. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Suse 12.09.2020 - 10:37:

Die Angaben stimmen nicht. Wenn ich 102 Maschen pro Seite habe, dann passt das nicht usammen mit dem Strickmuster. Ich müsste mehr Maschen haben, damit das Muster je Seite aufgeht. 110 Maschen bräuchte ich für Größe S, ich habe aber nur 102 Maschen... was sol ich ändern ? Es ist sehr schade. Suse

DROPS Design 14.09.2020 kl. 08:18:

Liebe Suse, so stricken Sie die 204 Maschen in S: A.2 über 14 M, A.3 (= 12 M), A.4 (= 8M), A.5 (= 34 M.), 14 (= 8 M), A.3 (= 12 M), A.6 über 28 M (= 14 M in A.6, Markierung, 14 M in A.6), A.3 (= 12 M), A.4 (= 8 M), A.5 (= 34 M), A.4 (= 8 M), A.3 (= 12 M), A.6 über 14 M = 14+12+8+34+8+12+28+12+8+34+8+12+14=204 M. (und 14+12+8+34+8+12+14= 102 M zwischen den Markierungen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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