Poetry Reading by DROPS Design

Knitted vest with cables and textured pattern in DROPS Lima. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no li-123
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-106-114-122-138-146 cm = 38 1/2”-41 3/4”-45”-48”-54 1/4”-57 3/8”
Full length: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"

All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color 0206, light beige

KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 80 cm = 32” for cables and textured pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for edges.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUTTONS Marble, NO 629: 4-4-5-5-5-5 items.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Lima uni colour DROPS Lima uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Lima mix DROPS Lima mix 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 197 stitches) minus edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 61) = 3.2.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 3rd stitch. Do not increase over the edge stitches. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.


PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern from the right side.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and bottom up. Stitches are bind off for the armholes and the front and back pieces finished separately. The piece is sewn together at the shoulders. Stitches are knitted up for the bands, neck and sleeve edges.

BODY:
Cast on 197-213-229-245-277-293 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and Lima.
Work 2 RIDGES back and forth – read description above. Knit 1 row from the right side. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, purl 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work a total of 4 rows of this rib, back and forth. Then purl 1 row (edge stitches knitted) AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 61 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes – read INCREASE TIP = 258-274-290-306-338-354 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and insert a marker thread 66-70-74-78-86-90 stitches in from each side = 126-134-142-150-166-174 stitches between the threads on the back piece. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when binding off for the armholes.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 (= 11 stitches), A.2 (= 24 stitches), A.3 (= 18 stitches), A.4 over the next 24-32-40-48-64-72 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), work A.3 (= 18 stitches), A.2 (= 24 stitches), A.3 (= 18 stitches), A.2 (= 24 stitches), A.3 (= 18 stitches), A.4 over the next 24-32-40-48-64-72 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), work A.3 (= 18 stitches), A.2 (= 24 stitches), A.5 (= 11 stitches) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern back and forth. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE.
When the piece measures 27-28-29-30-31-32 cm = 10 5/8”-11”-11 3/8”-11 3/4”-12 1/4”-12 172”, bind off for the armholes on the next row from the right side as follows: Work the first 63-67-71-75-83-87 stitches as before (= right front piece) – place these stitches on a thread, bind off 6 stitches for the armhole (3 stitches on each side of the marker thread), work 120-128-136-144-160-168 stitches as before (= back piece) – place these stitches on a new thread, bind off 6 stitches for the armhole (3 stitches on each side of the marker thread) and work as before over the last 63-67-71-75-83-87 stitches (= left front piece). Do not cut the strand.
The front and back pieces are finished separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 63-67-71-75-83-87 stitches. Start from the wrong side and continue the pattern as before. AT THE SAME TIME bind off stitches for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the right side as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-4-5 times and then 1 stitch 2-4-4-3-7-7 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm = 12 1/2”-13”-13 3/8”-13 3/4”-14 1/4”-14 1/2”, bind off stitches for the neck at the beginning of each row from the wrong side as follows: Bind off 5 stitches 1 time, 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-4-4 times and then 1 stitch 10-10-11-11-10-10 times.
After all the decreases for armhole and neck there are 33-35-36-38-39-41 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18 1/2”-19 1/4”-20”-21”-21 5/8”-22 1/2”. Now work the diagonal shoulders by binding off stitches at the beginning of each row from the right side as follows: Bind off 8-9-9-10-10-10 stitches 3 times and then 9-8-9-8-9-11 stitches 1 time.
All the stitches are now bind off and the piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8" from the highest point on the shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Place the 63-67-71-75-83-87 stitches from the thread back onto circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7. Start from the wrong side and continue the pattern as before. AT THE SAME TIME bind off stitches for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the wrong side as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-4-5 times and then 1 stitch 2-4-4-3-7-7 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm = 12 1/2”-13”-13 3/8”-13 3/4”-14 1/4”-14 1/2”, bind off stitches for the neck at the beginning of each row from the right side as follows: Bind off 5 stitches 1 time, 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-4-4 times and then 1 stitch 10-10-11-11-10-10 times.
After all the decreases for armhole and neck there are 33-35-36-38-39-41 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18 1/2”-19 1/4”-20”-21”-21 5/8”-22 1/2”. Now work the diagonal shoulders by binding off stitches at the beginning of each row from the wrong side as follows: Bind off 8-9-9-10-10-10 stitches 3 times and then 9-8-9-8-9-11 stitches 1 time.
All the stitches are now bind off and the piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8” from the highest point on the shoulder.

BACK PIECE:
Place the 120-128-136-144-160-168 stitches from the thread back onto circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7. Start from the wrong side and continue the pattern as before. AT THE SAME TIME bind off stitches for the armholes at the beginning of every row as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 0-0-0-1-1-1 time, 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-4-5 times and 1 stitch 2-4-4-3-7-7 times on each side = 108-112-116-120-124-128 stitches left.
Continue working until the piece measures 47-49-51-53-55-57 cm = 18 1/2”-19 1/4”-20”-21”-21 5/8”-22 1/2”. Now bind off for the diagonal shoulders on each side AT THE SAME TIME as you bind off for the neck as described below.

DIAGONAL SHOULDER:
Bind off for the diagonal shoulders at the beginning of every row as follows: Bind off 8-9-9-10-10-10 stitches 3 times on each side and 9-8-9-8-9-11 stitches 1 time on each side.

BACK OF NECK:
AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side decrease 10 stitches evenly spaced over the middle 42-42-44-44-46-46 stitches. On the next row bind off the middle 24-24-26-26-28-28 stitches for the neck. Then bind off stitches at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 2 times on each side.
All the stitches are now bind off and the piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8" from the highest point on the shoulder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge.

RIGHT BAND:
Start on the right side, at the bottom of the right front piece, and knit up 97 to 111 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 as far as the beginning of the neck (number of stitches divisible by 2 + 1). The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 2½ to 3 cm = 7/8” to 1 1/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP!

LEFT BAND:
Start on the right side, at the top of the left front piece below the neck, and knit up 97 to 111 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 down the edge (number of stitches divisible by 2 + 1). The first row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth, but after approx. 1 cm = 3/8” work 3-3-4-4-4-4 buttonholes evenly spaced. The top buttonhole is approx. 10-10-8-8-8-8 cm = 4”-4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8” from the neck and the bottom buttonhole approx. 3 cm = 1 1/8” from the bottom edge.
1 buttonhole = bind off 2 stitches and cast on 2 stitches over the bind-off stitches on the next row.
When the band measures 2½ to 3 cm = 7/8”-1 1/8”, bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP!

NECK:
Start from the right side and knit up 139 to 175 stitches around the neck, inside the 1 edge stitch, with circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4 (number of stitches divisible by 2 + 1).
Knit 1 row from the wrong side – AT THE SAME TIME work 1 buttonhole over the others on the left band (worked in the same way as on the band; make sure it is positioned directly above the other buttonholes).
Knit 1 row from the right side, knit 1 row from the wrong side and knit 1 more row from the right side. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work a total of 4 rows of this rib. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP!

SLEEVE EDGE:
Start from the right side at the bottom of the armhole and knit up 110 to 138 stitches around the armhole, inside the 1 edge stitch, with short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 (number of stitches divisible by 2). Purl 1 round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round and knit 1 round. Then work 4 rounds of rib (knit 1, purl 1). Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. Bind off with knit – remember BINDING-OFF TIP! Work a similar edge around the other armhole.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the right band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = place 1 stitch on the cable needle behind the piece, knit 2, purl 1 from the cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on the cable needle in front of the piece, purl 1, knit 2 from the cable needle
symbols = place 2 stitches on the cable needle in front of the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from the cable needle
symbols = place 3 stitches on the cable needle behind the piece, knit 3, knit 3 from the cable needle
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 218-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Brenda Baird wrote:

Wondering if you might be able to advise me on something: I am considering knitting this pattern but want to add about 12 inches to the length. How much more yarn, would you estimate that I need?

06.05.2022 - 14:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Baird, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every single request, but please contact your DROPS store - they will be able to help you, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

06.05.2022 kl. 16:05

country flag Janet wrote:

Hello, Could you please confirm if I am reading the diagrams correctly? Thank you very much for your kind help! A 1 - Row 2 (wrong side) P1, K2, P6, K1, P1 A 4 - Row 2 (wrong side) P4, K4

21.01.2022 - 16:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Janet, read the diagrams from left to right on the wrong side. A.1 row 2: P1, K1, P6, K2, P1. A.4 row 2: K4, P4. Happy knitting!

21.01.2022 kl. 17:20

country flag Janet wrote:

Hello, I am stuck on the increase stitches on the body part. If i were to increase a stitch after the 3rd stitch (excluding the edge stitches), there will be total of 65 stitches increased instead of 61 stitches. Should I stop the increase after 61 stitches have been done? Thank you in advance for your kind help!

14.01.2022 - 16:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Janet, you increase after each 3rd stitch until you have worked 61 stitches. Happy knitting!

17.01.2022 kl. 00:53

country flag Aleksandra wrote:

Hi, I cannot go further back piece. I am not really sure in which order to decrease and cast off stitches in parts "diagonal shoulder" and "back of neck". Can you please explain it in more details or maybe order? I don't understand how to decrease evenly within middle sts and follow the pattern at the same time and how to continue decreasing stitches in diagonal shoulders if we casted off middle sts for neck.. finish them separately? Pls help, i really love this vest!

29.05.2021 - 13:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Alexsandra,at the middle of the back, you simply decrease the amount of stitches,, and the next row cast off, so keeping in pattern needs only extend to keep the knit and purl stitches in order. And yes, the two shoulders needs to be finished separately. Happy Knitting!

29.05.2021 kl. 14:12

country flag Lotte Bjerregaard wrote:

Hej, Jag har stickat denna, men skulle vilja ha ärmar på. Kanin rekommenderar ett mönster så jag har rätt form mot skulderna? Jag kan nog anpassa mönstret själv, men hur får jag ett ärm som passar? Lotte

10.03.2021 - 13:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lotte. Du kan se på våra andra tröjor/ koftor i garngrupp B för att se om du hittar någon som du kan använda. Kanske att tex nr 216-38 kan fungera. Mvh DROPS Design

11.03.2021 kl. 06:42

country flag Ag Urquhart wrote:

Are the wrong side rows shown on the diagram...or is the diagram all right side rows with doing purl in every other row...hope this makes sense

10.02.2021 - 20:23

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ag Urquhart , the diagrams show every row of the pattern. Every second row is knitted "as it seen" or "covered", that means from teh wrong side the stitches of the cables are purled, the other stitches are knitted. Happy Knitting!

11.02.2021 kl. 00:37

country flag Christine Pedersen wrote:

Hej Når der i bagstykket skal skal lukkes af til halsudskæring og skrå skulder, skal arbejdet så deles med halsudskæring en i midten? Kan kun finde videoer hos jer, hvor maskerne sættes på tråd uden at blive lukket af. Har I en video, der passer denne opskrift?

05.02.2021 - 23:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Christine. Vi har ingen video til akkurat denne halsfellingen. Men du skal på 1. pinne fra retten felle 10 masker jevnt fordelt over de midterste 42-42-44-44-46-46 maskene. Så strikkes det 1 pinne fra vrangen, neste pinne fra retten skal de de midterste 24-24-26-26-28-28 maskene felles av til hals og nå strikker du hver skulder for seg selv, SAMTIDIG som det felles til skrå skulder. mvh DROPS design

12.02.2021 kl. 10:42

country flag Christine Pedersen wrote:

Hej Efter de fire pinde Rib i den nederste kant, skal der strikkes en pind vrang, hvor der tages 61 masker ud ved omslag. Når jeg så på retsiden skal strikke de 61 masker drejet for at undgå huller, men stamtidig strikke mønster a.2, hvordan gør jeg det i de masker, der i mønsteret skal være vrang? Har I evt. en video, der viser dette?

18.01.2021 - 01:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Christine. Du strikker kastet vrang i den bakre maskebuen for å unngå å få hull/blir et lite hull. Ta en titt på denne video og ved ca tid: 01:13. mvh DROPS design

27.01.2021 kl. 11:46

country flag Denise Loup wrote:

Muss ich die Schulter zuerst abnehmen und dann den Halsauschnitt am Rücken? Die 10 Maschen muss ich diese abmaschen oder 2 zusammenstellen ? Schulter abmaschen, paar Maschen stricken 10 abmaschen, wieder paar Maschen stricken, Schulter abmaschen? Ist das so gemeint?

22.12.2020 - 22:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Loup, Beim Stricken von Zöpfen ziehen sich die Maschen mehr zusammen, als wenn Sie glatt rechts stricken, deshalb wird hier zuerst 10 Maschen über die Zöpfe abgenommen (= 10 Mal 2 Maschen zusammenstricken regelmäßig verteilt. ), und gleichzeitig sollen Sie bei dieser Reihe die ersten 8-9-10 M (siehe Größe) stillegen. und wenn die mittleren Maschen für den Hals abgekettet werden, wird jede Schulter separat gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.12.2020 kl. 07:04

country flag Beate wrote:

Nice pattern. At first it looked huge but the cables draw in so much that the measurements came out exactly right. However, I m not used to the buttonholes on the left band, switched them to the right one.

15.12.2020 - 20:39

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