DROPS / 217 / 1

Mistletoe Muse by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Mistletoe Muse / DROPS 217-1 - Knitted sweater in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Mistletoe Muse / DROPS 217-1 - Knitted sweater in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Mistletoe Muse / DROPS 217-1 - Knitted sweater in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Mistletoe Muse / DROPS 217-1 - Knitted sweater in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Mistletoe Muse / DROPS 217-1 - Knitted sweater in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke and Nordic pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-304
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-106-112-120-136-142 cm = 38 1/2”-41 3/4”-44”-47 1/4”-53 1/2”-55 3/4”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-200-250-250-300 g color 02, wheat
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 05, brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 26, beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 22, yellow
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 07, ruby red
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 28, red brick
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 29, old pink
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 30, sage green

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch/Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch/Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 72.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.
If the knitting gauge is not correct in height and you work too tightly, the garment will be short and the armholes too small – you can correct for this by regularly working an extra row in the 1-colored sections.
If you work loosely, the garment will be too long – you can correct for this by regularly working 1 round less in the 1-colored sections.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 80 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 22) = 3.6.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 3rd and 4th stitch. On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from the transition between the left sleeve and the back piece and top down. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 80-84-88-94-96-102 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and wheat. Knit 1 round then work rib (= knit 1 twisted / purl 1) in the round for 9 cm = 3 1/2”.
When the rib is finished, knit 1 round where you increase 22-24-26-26-30-36 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 102-108-114-120-126-138 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round; the yoke is measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Work pattern A.1 (= 6 stitches) a total of 17-18-19-20-21-23 times on the round – read KNITTING TIP. On the rounds with arrows, increase as follows - remember INCREASE TIP:
Arrow-1: Increase 24-24-30-30-30-30 stitches evenly spaced = 126-132-144-150-156-168 stitches. There is now room for 21-22-24-25-26-28 repeats of A.1 on the round.
Arrow-2: Increase 14-22-24-18-19-21 stitches evenly spaced = 140-154-168-168-175-189 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Now continue in the different sizes as described below:

Sizes S and M:
Work A.2 (= 7 stitches) a total of 20-22 times on the round.
When the piece measures 22-24 cm = 8 3/4”-9 1/2”, sizes S-M are finished. If the knitting gauge is correct there are 4-0 rounds left in A.2 and 240-264 stitches on the round. If the piece is shorter than 22-24 cm = 8 3/4”-9 1/2”, continue with the remaining rounds in A.2 and then A.3 over A.2 (there is room for 2 repeats of A.3 over the 12 stitches in A.2) to the correct length.

Sizes L and XL
Work A.2 (= 7 stitches) a total of 24-24 times on the round. When the diagram has been worked in height there are 288-288 stitches on the round. If the knitting gauge is correct the piece measures 24-24 cm = 9 1/2”-9 1/2” from the marker. Continue with A.3 over A.2 (there is room for 2 repeats of A.3 over the 12 stitches in A.2) until the piece measures 25-26 cm = 9 3/4”-10 1/4” from the marker.

Sizes XXL and XXXL:
Work A.2 (= 7 stitches) a total of 25-27 times on the round. When the diagram has been worked in height there are 300-324 stitches on the round. If the knitting gauge is correct the piece now measures 24-24 cm = 9 1/2”-9 1/2” from the marker.
Continue with A.3 over A.2 (there is room for 2 repeats of A.3 over the 12 stitches in A.2) until the piece measures 28-30 cm = 11”-11 3/4” from the marker; at the same time on row 8 in A.3 increase 12-12 stitches evenly spaced = 312-336 stitches.

All sizes:
Now divide the piece for the body and sleeves. To give a symmetric pattern on the front and back pieces, the beginning of the round is moved back 3 stitches in sizes M and XXXL (i.e., cut the strand and place the first stitches on the right needle onto the left needle before continuing). In sizes S, L, XL and XXL keep the beginning of the round where it is.
Work the next round in pattern as before and as follows: Work the first 72-78-84-84-96-102 stitches (= back piece), place the next 48-54-60-60-60-66 stitches on a thread for the sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-12-12-12 new stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the next 72-78-84-84-96-102 stitches (= front piece) and place the next 48-54-60-60-60-66 stitches on a thread for the sleeve and cast on 6-6-6-12-12-12 new stitches (= in side under sleeve).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 156-168-180-192-216-228 stitches. Continue in the different sizes as follows:

Size S:
Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6 new stitches cast on under each sleeve (= 3 stitches on each side of the thread). Continue with A.2 as before until the diagram has been completed in height – NOTE: The pattern does not fit under the sleeves; work as many stitches of pattern that there is room for under sleeves. Work A.3 (= 6 stitches) a total of 26 times on the round. When A.3 has been completed go to ALL SIZES.

Sizes M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Continue with A.3 (= 6 stitches) a total of 28-30-32-36-38 times on the round. When A.3 has been completed go to ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
After A.3 continue with wheat to finished length. When the piece measures 26-26-27-28-28-28 cm = 10 1/4”-10 1/4”-10 5/8”-10 5/8”-11”-11”-11” from the division, knit 1 round where you increase 28-30-32-32-36-38 stitches evenly spaced = 184-198-212-224-252-266 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm = US 7 and work rib (= knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BINDING-OFF TIP.
The sweater measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 48-54-60-60-60-66 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-12-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-60-66-72-72-78 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-12-12-12 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Continue in the round with pattern, in the same way as on the body – the pattern will not fit under the sleeve. When the sleeve measures 5-3-3-3-3-3 cm = 2”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8” from the division, decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2½-2-2-1½ cm = 1 1/4”-1 1/8”-7/8”-3/4”-3/4”-1/2” a total of 9-11-13-15-14-17 times = 36-38-40-42-44-44 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 37-36-35-34-33-31 cm = 14 1/2”-14 1/4”-13 3/4”-13 3/8”-13”-12 1/4” (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 6-6-6-6-8-8 stitches evenly spaced = 42-44-46-48-52-52 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm = US 7 and work rib (= knit 1 twisted, purl 1) for 5 cm = 2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BINDING-OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 27.11.2020
Correction: Diagram A.2 updated.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = wheat
symbols = beige
symbols = brown
symbols = old pink
symbols = red brick
symbols = ruby red
symbols = yellow
symbols = sage green
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
symbols = increase round – read description in text
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 217-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Christina 12.05.2021 - 08:58:

Hallo, ist es wirklich richtig, dass nach Beenden des Korpusteiles für das Bündchen Maschen zugenommen werden müssen? Normalerweise soll das Bündchen doch enger sitzen, daher hätte ich eher angenommen dass die Maschenzahl reduziert werden muss. Vielen Dank im Voraus! Viele Grüße - Christina

user icon DROPS Design 12.05.2021 kl. 09:36:

Liebe Christina, das Rippenmuster ist elastischer und zieht sich z.B. im Vergleich zum Glatt-rechts-Gestrick zusammen. Wenn vor dem Rippenmuster-Rand zugenommen wird, kann man damit vermeiden, dass der Rand deutlich enger wird als das restliche Rumpfteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Marita 12.03.2021 - 16:23:

Could you knitt this pattern from the bottom and just reverse the instructions?

user icon DROPS Design 13.03.2021 kl. 10:25:

Dear Marita, please undertsand that we cannot modify our patterns for each individual request. However, it is not impossible to reverse the order the piece is knitted, if you feel up to it, might be an interesting challenge. Happy Knitting!

country flag Jaana Seikkula 27.02.2021 - 12:49:

Haluaisin tilata S koossa langat ja puikot, mutta en löytänyt ohjeita tilaukseen.

user icon DROPS Design 15.03.2021 kl. 18:46:

Hei, voit tilata langat valitsemastasi lankakaupasta. Esim. Tapion kauppa ja Menita myyvät DROPS lankoja.

country flag Esther Shtorchan 04.02.2021 - 21:07:

Hi, can I buy yarn and needls for milestone muse that appear up here? can you send it to Israel? if i can buy it, where can I see the prices? thank you!

user icon DROPS Design 05.02.2021 kl. 08:28:

Dear Mrs Shtorchan, you will find list of DROPS stores shipping worldwide here - check their website or contact them for any further informations. Happy knitting!

country flag Karin 16.01.2021 - 21:44:

Min dotter tycker om mönstret, men eftersom hon är väldigt smal undrar hon om jag kan minska ner minsta storleken (S) och hur jag i så fall räknar ut antalet maskor etc.

user icon DROPS Design 19.01.2021 kl. 15:41:

Hej Karin, vi kan desværre ikke regne opskriften om. Men hvis du selv kan, så kan du evt strikke 1 rapport mindre på både forstykket og bagstykket, men husk selv at trække det antal masker fra i resten af opskriften. God fornøjelse!

country flag Heidi 08.12.2020 - 22:22:

Hej! När det är dags att dela upp arbetet i ok och ärmar i storlek M- betyder det att tre maskor FRÅN den högra stickan ska flyttas TILL den vänstra stickan? Förstod inte riktigt eftersom det står att de sista maskorna ska flyttas tillbaka (tolkar det då tvärtom). Fint mönster! Tack på förhand

country flag Tove Eide 01.11.2020 - 13:50:

Flott mønster, men... På A2 omg. 9-13 strikkes det med 3 farger, men det ser ikke sånn ut på bildet, hva er riktig?

user icon DROPS Design 02.11.2020 kl. 16:06:

Hej Tove, nej jeg tror du har ret, de 3 yderste masker til højre skal være en streg i midten. Tak for info, vi skal få rettet! God fornøjelse :)

country flag Asta Paloneva 26.10.2020 - 05:58:

Hyvin pirteän kaunis.

country flag Irina 06.08.2020 - 11:29:

Bellissimo, grazie

country flag Kelly Crane 03.07.2020 - 19:56:

I like how the color highlights the chest area but waist area moves to the background. It isn't overwhelming the wearer but compliment her.

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