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Copper Rose by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Safran. Piece is knitted top down with round yoke, raglan, lace pattern on yoke and ¾ long sleeves. Size XS–XXL.

Keywords: 3/4 sleeves, bobble, lace, raglan, round neck, round yoke, sweater, top, top down

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DROPS 212-10
DROPS design: Pattern e-304
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-92-100-108-118-130 cm = 33”-36 1/4”-39 3/8”-42 1/2”-46 1/2”-51 1/4”
Full length: 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17 1/4”-18”-19”-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 59, red clay

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.55 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.55 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.75$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 114 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 18) = 6.3.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 6th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
To decrease in this example knit approx. every 5th and 6th stitch together.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan in every transition between front/back piece and sleeves, i.e. increase 1 stitch on each side of the 4 markers as explained below:
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker is between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at the marker and 8 stitches increased in total on round). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 6th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 114-118-122-128-132-136 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 with Safran. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1/purl 1) for 3 cm = 1 1/8”.
Knit 1 round while increasing 18-26-34-28-36-44 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 132-144-156-156-168-180 stitches. Knit 1 round (knit yarn overs twisted). Insert 1 marker in the middle of round (= mid front). Then work yoke as explained below. Measure yoke from this marker!

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work A.1 in the round (= 11-12-13-13-14-15 repetitions of 12 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! When A.1 has been worked vertically, there are 242-264-286-312-336-360 stitches on row, and piece measures approx. 11-11-11-13-13-13 cm = 4 3/8”-4 3/8”-4 3/”-5 1/8”-5 1/8”-5 1/8” from marker by the neck. Knit 1 round while increasing 6-4-6-4-4-4 stitches evenly = 248-268-292-316-340-364 stitches.
Now insert 4 markers in piece as explained below (this is done without working the stitches). Use markers when increasing for raglan.
Count 38-42-46-49-53-58 stitches (= ½ back piece), insert 1 marker before next stitch, count 48-50-54-60-64-66 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker before next stitch, count 76-84-92-98-106-116 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker before next stitch, count 48-50-54-60-64-66 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker before next stitch. 38-42-46-49-53-58 stitches remain on round after last marker (= ½ back piece).
Work in stockinette stitch in the round and increase for RAGLAN on each side of the 4 markers - read explanation above. Increase like this every other round 9-10-10-12-13-15 times in total vertically = 320-348-372-412-444-484 stitches.
After last increase work in stockinette stitch without increases until piece measures 18-19-20-22-24-26 cm = 7”-7 1/2”-8”-8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4” from marker by the neck.
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves, i.e. work last round as follows: Work 47-52-56-61-66-73 stitches in stockinette stitch (= ½ back piece), slip the next 66-70-74-84-90-96 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work 94-104-112-122-132-146 stitches in stockinette stitch (= front piece), slip the next 66-70-74-84-90-96 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) , and work the remaining 47-52-56-61-66-73 stitches in stockinette stitch as before (= ½ back piece). Cut the yarn. Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 200-220-240-260-284-312 stitches. Insert 1 marker in one side of piece, in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under sleeve.
Begin round at the marker thread and work in stockinette stitch in the round until piece measures 19-20-21-21-21-21 cm = 7 1/2”-8”-8 1/4”-8 1/4”-8 1/4”-8 1/4” from division (approx. 3 cm = 1 1/8” remain until finished measurements, try the sweater on and work to desired length).
Knit 1 round while increasing 40-44-48-52-56-62 stitches evenly = 240-264-288-312-340-374 stitches. NOTE! Increase stitches to avoid the rib to be worked, from contracting the piece.
Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm = US 1,5. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BIND-OFF TIP. Sweater measures approx. 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm = 17 1/4”-18”-19”-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4" from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 66-70-74-84-90-96 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 72-76-82-92-100-106 stitches.
Begin round in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches under sleeve, and work in stockinette stitch in the round until sleeve measures 18-17-17-15-14-14 cm = 7”-6 3/4”-6 3/4”-6”-5 1/2”-5 1/2” from division (approx. 5 cm = 2” remain until finished measurements, try the sweater on and work to desired length). NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke.
Knit 1 round while decreasing 12-14-18-24-30-34 stitches evenly - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 60-62-64-68-70-72 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = US 1,5. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 5 cm = 2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember bind-off tip! Sleeve measures approx. 23-22-22-20-19-19 cm = 9”-8 3/4”-8 3/4”-8”-7 1/2”-7 1/2” from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over to make a hole
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = Bobble: Knit 1, 1 yarn-over, knit 1, 1 yarn-over, knit 1 in same stitch (= 5 stitches), turn piece. Work 4 rows in stockinette stitch over these 5 stitches Then pass 2nd stitch on right needle over first stitch, then pass 3rd stitch over first stitch, then 4th stitch over first stitch and finally 5th stitch over first stitch (= 1 stitch remains)
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 212-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Janne wrote:

Thank you for your very quick response to my question. The thing that confused me is that the pattern states “work A1 in the round x# repetitions of 12 stitches”. Perhaps I’m the only one that misinterpreted but it may be helpful to clarify that. I have found the videos very helpful. Love the sweater. Thank you.

29.09.2022 - 19:38

country flag Janne wrote:

Row 1 of A1, I get a count of 14., not 12. What am I doing wrong? Bobble 1 st, YO, 3 k, k2tog=1, YO, p1, YO,(sl1,k1,psl)=1 st,3k,YO=14 st

29.09.2022 - 05:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Janne, The row is the number of stitches before it is worked(so the number of stitches worked from the previous row). There are 12 basic stitches on the row and you 4 stitches increased (yarn overs) and 2 stitches decreased which leaves you 14 stitches to work on the next row. I hope this helps and happy knitting!

29.09.2022 kl. 07:41

country flag Ansku wrote:

Mikä olisi paras silmukoiden väli tehdessä lisäyksiä pääntien reunukseen L-koon paitaan?

17.08.2022 - 13:31

country flag Stefania wrote:

Buongiorno, montando le 114 maglie per la tg. S con i ferri 2,5mm viene un girocollo e non un collo a barca come quello in foto... le misure sono corrette? come posso fare? Grazie

18.03.2022 - 22:36

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Stefania, ha controllato che il suo campione corrispondesse a quello indicato prima di iniziare a lavorare? In ogni caso può portare il lavoro in forma dopo il lavaggio e il bloccaggio. Buon lavoro!

20.03.2022 kl. 15:26

country flag Ann Desiree Wastrup wrote:

Hej! Se denna kommentaren: "country flag Lill Heidi Hillmann wrote: Det er feil beskrivelse i mønsteret når det gjelder den sorte prikken. Kastet skal strikkes vridd på neste omgang da det ikke skal bli hull. 03.07.2020 - 09:13 DROPS Design answered: Hej. Tack för info, detta har nu rättats! Mvh DROPS Design 03.07.2020 kl. 09:44" Detta är fortfarande inte rättat i beskrivningen, per idag 4/3 2022.

04.03.2022 - 20:32

country flag Elisabeth LP wrote:

Bonjour, merci de nous offrir ce si joli modèle. Je suis en train de le réaliser et je voudrais savoir pourquoi il faut couper le fil après avoir séparé les différentes parties ( devant , dos et manches) et recommencer à partir du marqueur ; il ne me semble pas que le fait de tricoter les 55 mailles entre la moitié dos et sous le bras puisse déséquilibrer le tricot. Mais, je me trompe peut-être . Pourriez-vous m'expliquer ? Merci beaucoup.

05.06.2021 - 22:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Elisabeth LP, c'est un choix de la styliste, mais vous pouvez fort probablement continuer à tricoter à partir du milieu dos jusqu'à la fin du dos/devant pour éviter d'avoir à couper le fil. Bon tricot!

07.06.2021 kl. 07:24

country flag Louise M Smith wrote:

Why is there not a Download PDF link box for the free patterns? I may not want to print the pattern right away so I save them in a knitting pattern file. I do not use a tablet so it shows on my desk laptop computer so not convenient to pack around.

22.04.2021 - 21:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Louise, you can download the patterns in PDF format by clicking on the Print icon, then continue to pattern, and then save. Happy Knitting!

23.04.2021 kl. 01:48

country flag Ulla wrote:

Jeg er ved at strikke str L men forstår ikke at der efter diagram A1 er færdigstrikket i højden skal være 286 masker på pinden. Der er 13 rapporter som bliver 24 masker tilsidesat i diagrammet og det giver 312 masker. Hvad gør at der kun skal være 286 masker

22.03.2021 - 19:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ulla, Hvis du strikker L (4.størrelse) så skal du have 312 masker efter at have strikke diagrammet, tager 4 masker ud så du har 316 masker osv...

23.03.2021 kl. 14:12

country flag Irina E wrote:

Hi DROPS Team, I just want to tell you how much I like this pattern. Almost done knitting this top. I added slight modification by adding after yoke extra rows on the back by knitting incomplete row. Thank you!

09.08.2020 - 16:55

country flag Lill Heidi Hillmann wrote:

Det er feil beskrivelse i mønsteret når det gjelder den sorte prikken. Kastet skal strikkes vridd på neste omgang da det ikke skal bli hull

03.07.2020 - 09:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Tack för info, detta har nu rättats! Mvh DROPS Design

03.07.2020 kl. 09:44

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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
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