New Beginnings by DROPS Design

Knitted, fitted top in DROPS Cotton Merino. Piece is knitted with vents in the sides, short sleeves and round yoke with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 212-38
DROPS design: Pattern cm-121
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-92-100-110-122-134 cm = 33”-36 1/4”-38 3/8”-43 3/8”-48”-52 3/4”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22”-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-350-400-450-450-500 g color 28, powder

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm = 16” and 24” or 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32” for edges in garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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50% Wool, 50% Cotton
from 4.10 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.10 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body)
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 4 stitches remain before marker and knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker thread is between these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, stitch knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 316 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 6) = 52.7.
In this example decrease by knitting approx. every 52nd and 53rd stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work from bottom up. Work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle separately up to vent. Then slip parts together, and work body in the round on circular needle up to armholes. Then work 2 sleeve edges in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle, then slip them on to same circular needle as body. Work yoke in the round on circular needle until finished measurements.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 88-96-104-116-128-140 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with Cotton Merino. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH back and forth - read explanation above! Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work in stockinette stitch with 3 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side until piece measures 8 cm = 3 1/8” - finish after a row from wrong side. Put piece aside and work the back piece.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 88-96-104-116-128-140 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Work 2 ridges back and forth. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work in stockinette stitch with 3 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side until piece measures 8 cm = 3 1/8” - finish after a row from wrong side. Then work body as explained below.

BODY:
Slip front piece and back piece on to same circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 = 176-192-208-232-256-280 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side in the transitions between front piece and back piece. Move the marker threads upwards when working; they should be used for increase and decrease later in the sides.
Work in stockinette stitch in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 9 cm = 3 1/2” from cast-on edge, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP-1 (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 4 cm = 1 1/2” 3 times in total in each side = 164-180-196-220-244-268 stitches.
When piece measures 22 cm = 8 3/4” from cast-on edge, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4 cm = 1 1/2” 3 times in total in each side = 176-192-208-232-256-280 stitches.
When piece measures 34 cm = 13 3/8” from cast-on edge in all sizes, bind off 6-8-8-10-10-12 stitches in each side for armholes, i.e. bind off 3-4-4-5-5-6 stitches on each side of both marker threads = 82-88-96-106-118-128 stitches on each of the parts. Cut the yarn. Put piece aside and work the sleeve edges.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Cast on 60-66-70-78-86-90 stitches on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 with Cotton Merino. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - read explanation above. Switch to double pointed needles or short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Work 3 rounds in stockinette stitch. Work next round as follows: Bind off the first 3-4-4-5-5-6 stitches, work 54-58-62-68-76-78 stitches in stockinette stitch and bind off the remaining 3-4-4-5-5-6 stitches. Cut the yarn. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve edge the same way. Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Slip sleeve edges on to same circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 as body, where stitches for armholes were bind off = 272-292-316-348-388-412 stitches on needle. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work 2-2-2-2-4-4 rounds in stockinette stitch, and decrease at the same time 2-2-6-8-8-2 stitches evenly on last round – read INCREASE DECREASE TIP-2 = 270-290-310-340-380-410 stitches.
Work A.1 in the round (= 27-29-31-34-38-41 repetitions of 10 stitches). When A.1 has been worked, work 4-4-6-6-10-10 rounds in stockinette stitch– AT THE SAME TIME decrease 50-50-50-50-60-60 stitches evenly on last round = 220-240-260-290-320-350 stitches.
Work A.1 in the round (= 22-24-26-29-32-35 repetitions of 10 stitches). When A.1 has been worked, insert 1 marker on round. Then work in stockinette stitch in the round while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing evenly as explained in the different sizes below - yoke now measures from marker:

S and M:
When piece measures 1-1 cm = 3/8”-3/8” from marker, decrease 44-48 stitches evenly = 176-192 stitches.
When piece measures 3-4 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/2” from marker, decrease 44-48 stitches evenly = 132-144 stitches. Then work as explained under ALL SIZES!

L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
When piece measures 1-1-1-1 cm = 3/8”-3/8”-3/8”-3/8”, decrease 37-47-53-58 stitches evenly = 223-243-267-292 stitches.
When piece measures 3-4-4-5 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-2”, decrease 37-47-53-58 stitches evenly = 186-196-214-234 stitches.
When piece measures 5-7-7-9 cm = 2”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-3 1/2”, decrease 37-47-53-58 stitches evenly = 149-149-161-176 stitches. Then work as explained under ALL SIZES!

ALL SIZES:
Continue in the round in stockinette stitch until piece measures 4-6-7-9-9-11 cm = 1 1/2”-2 3/8”-2 3/4”-3 1/2”-3 1/2”-4 3/8” from marker – i.e. 18-20-22-24-26-28 cm = 7”-8”-8 3/4”-9 1/2”-10 1/4”-11” from where body and sleeve edges were slipped together. Knit 1 round while decreasing 24-32-33-29-35-46 stitches evenly = 108-112-116-120-126-130 stitches.
Switch to a short circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. Work 2 ridges in the round. Switch back to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and bind off by knitting. Top measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22”-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26" from shoulder and down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over on needle, on next round knit yarn over (= holes)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
symbols = beginning of round is displaced 1 stitch to the right
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 212-38) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (28)

country flag Marielle wrote:

Je viens de comprendre le patron,

08.09.2022 - 03:51

country flag Marielle wrote:

Je termine les diminutions à 149 mailles quand je continue en tricotant et diminue encore 24 mailles. Donc 125 mailles mais vous parlez de 108 mailles, il y a une différence de 17 mailles. Expliquez-moi

08.09.2022 - 03:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marielle, dans la partie TOUTES LES TAILLES, 24 est le chiffre a diminuer dans la taille S. Dans la taille L il faut diminuer 33 mailles: 149-33=116. Bon tricot!

08.09.2022 kl. 09:06

country flag Marielle wrote:

Depuis le rang de montage , est-ce au tout début. Dos et devant

04.05.2022 - 06:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marielle, tout à fait, le rang de montage correspond au tout début de l'ouvrage, lorsque vous avez monté vos mailles. Bon tricot!

04.05.2022 kl. 08:01

country flag Vivi Busch-Christensen wrote:

Hej Kan den strikkes med lange ærmer? Kan den strikkes med kun det øverste hulmønster på bul og samtidig begge på det korte ærme? Vh Vivi Busch-Christensen

30.04.2022 - 06:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Vivi. Du kan strikke denne med lange ermer, men må du selv regne ut hvordan du vil felle under ermet og hvor langt erme du ønsker. Om du ønsker mønster, må du huske å ha riktig maskeantall slik at mønstret går opp. mvh DROPS Design

02.05.2022 kl. 13:13

country flag Busra wrote:

Hi! Thank you for the pattern! How do I skip a stitch? Just by slipping it from the left needle to the right? My question is about the black square. Thank you!

03.04.2021 - 15:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Busra, these black squares in the diagrams are usualy on the place of stitches that were decreased (without a corresponding increase) in the pattern, and in the row you have one (or more) stitch less than in the row/ round before. Happy Knitting!

04.04.2021 kl. 21:32

country flag Sonja Sarauw wrote:

Jeg syntes ikke det fremgår af opskriften hvor omgangen begynder når mønstret begynder. Kan jeg få hjælp?

17.09.2020 - 19:32

country flag Johanna wrote:

Ik heb inmiddels ontdekt, dat ik zelf ben verder gegaan met de beschrijving van maat XXL i.p.v. maat L. De beschrijving klopt wel degelijk!

13.09.2020 - 19:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Johanna,

Fijn dat je het hebt ontdekt. Bedankt voor de terugkoppeling en veel breiplezier!

15.09.2020 kl. 13:15

country flag Johanna wrote:

Ik ben bezig met dit patroon in maat L. Ik werk aan de pas en heb het A.1 patroon voor de tweede keer in hoogte gebreid (=260 st op de naald). Hierna ga ik volgens beschrijving voor maat L verder, waarbij ik na 1 cm. 53 st. moet minderen. Hierna zou ik 267 st. moeten hebben, maar aangezien ik "maar" 260 st. heb vóór de mindering denk ik dat hier een fout in de beschrijving staat? Hoe moet ik verder?

13.09.2020 - 19:09

country flag Brunhilde wrote:

Hallo! Ich habe das Modell nun fertig gestrickt und es gefällt mir sehr gut. Mich stört aber, dass sich der untere Rand hochrollt. Wie kann ich das künftig verhindern? Oder was kann ich mit dem fertig gestrickten Teil tun?

19.07.2020 - 19:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Brunhilde, Sie können den Top mit Stecknadeln auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, danach entfernen Sie die Stecknadeln, dann sollte sich der Rand nicht mehr rollen. Viel Spaß!

20.07.2020 kl. 10:04

country flag Margaret Sedgwick wrote:

Hello, can't cope with circular needles, would love to knit this on two needles, is this possible? Thank you.

11.06.2020 - 14:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Sedgwick, you will find here how to adapt a pattern from circular needle to straight needles - should you need further assistance you are welcome to contact your DROPS store. Happy knitting!

11.06.2020 kl. 16:00

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