DROPS / 212 / 22

Spinning Ribbons by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted with rib and lace pattern. Size XS–XXL.

DROPS design: Pattern z-885
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZE:
XS - S/M - L/XL – XXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 82-96-110-124 cm = 32 1/4”-37 3/4”-43 3/8”-48 3/4”
Full length: 52-54-57-60 cm = 20 1/2”-21 1/4”-22 1/2”-23 5/8”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-200-250-300 g color 3112, powder pink
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-75-100-100 g color 03, light pink

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm = US 9: Length 40 and 80 cm = 16” and 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16” - for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to sleeve):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes. At first increase, increase after the first purl stitch in every purl section. On second increase, increase before the last purl stitch in every purl section. On third increase, increase after the first purl stitch in every purl section, etc.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Increase in every knit section as follows: Knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit the remaining 4 stitches = 6 stitches.

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, purl 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased), marker thread is here, purl 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased). Repeat at the other marker thread.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work body in the round on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle. Then slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body before working yoke in the round on circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 132-154-176-198 stitches on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work rib (= purl 5/knit 6) in the round. When piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8”, work pattern as follows: * Purl 5, A.1 over the next 6 stitches *, work from *-* in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Continue until piece measures 27-33-28-31 cm = 10 5/8”-13”-11”-12 1/4” – adjust to finish after next to last round in A.1. Work next round (i.e. last round in A.1) as follows: Bind off the first 6 stitches (= purl 5, and knit 1), work the next 59-70-81-92 stitches (= front piece), bind off the next 7 stitches (= knit 1, purl 5, knit 1), work the next 59-70-81-92 stitches (= back piece), bind off last stitch (= knit 1). Cut the yarn. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 45-45-54-54 stitches on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work rib (purl 4/knit 5) in the round for 3 cm = 1 1/8”.
Now work A.2 over the 5 knit stitches and continue with purl over purl. AT THE SAME TIME decrease and increase as follows:
When piece measures 6 cm = 2 3/8”, decrease all 4 purl stitches to 3 purl stitches by purling the first 2 stitches in purl sections together = 40-40-48-48 stitches.
When piece measures 12 cm = 4 3/4”, decrease all 3 purl stitches to 2 purl stitches by purling the last 2 stitches in purl sections together = 35-35-42-42 stitches.
When piece measures 18-18-17-16 cm = 7”-7”-6 3/4”-6 1/4”, increase all 2 purl stitches to 3 purl stitches - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 40-40-48-48 stitches.
When piece measures 24-24-23-22 cm = 9 1/2”-9 1/2”-9”-8 3/4”, increase all 3 purl stitches to 4 purl stitches = 45-45-54-54 stitches.
When piece measures 29-29-28-27 cm = 11 3/8”-11 3/8”-11”-10 5/8”, adjust so that one whole repetition of A.2 has been worked vertically, increase all 5 knit stitches to 6 knit stitches - read INCREASE TIP-2 = 50-50-60-60 stitches. Then work A.1 over every repetition of A.2.
When piece measures 35-35-33-33 cm = 13 3/4”-13 3/4”-13”-13”, increase all 4 purl stitches to 5 purl stitches = 55-55-66-66 stitches.
Continue in the round with A.1 and 5 purl stitches in every purl stitch until sleeve measures 39-41-38-38 cm = 15 1/4”-16 1/8”-15”-15” - adjust to finish after next to last round in A.1. Work next round (i.e. last round in A.1) as follows: Bind off the first 6 stitches (= 5 purl stitches, 1 knit stitch), work pattern as before until 1 stitch remain, bind off last stitch (= 1 knit stitch) = 48-48-59-59 stitches remain on needle. Cut the yarn. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bind off in each side= 214-236-280-302 stitches. In every transition between body and sleeves there are now 10 knit stitches. Begin round after 10 knit stitches, i.e. after 5 knit stitches after transition between right sleeve and back piece.
Work pattern A.3 over A.1, A.4 over the 5 purl stitches and A.5 over the 10 knit stitches in transition between body and sleeves. When A.5 has been worked vertically (8 rounds on yoke have been worked), 4 stitches have been decrease in every repetition A.5 (= 16 stitches decreased) = 198-220-264-286 stitches.
Now work in the different sizes as follows:

Size XS and S/M:
Continue with A.3 and A.4 as before, over the 6 stitches in A.5 work A.3 (make sure to begin on same round in all repetitions on round). When diagrams have been worked vertically, there are 72-80 stitches on round. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Continue with rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Cut and fasten the yarn. Sweater measures approx. 52-54 cm = 20 1/2”-21 1/4” from shoulder and down.

Size L/XL, XXL:
Repeat the first 8 rounds in A.3 and A.4 and over A.5 work A.3 (make sure to begin on same round in all repetitions on round). When the 8 rounds in diagrams have been worked 2-2 times in total vertically (i.e. 16 rounds have been worked in total on yoke), work the remaining rounds in diagrams. When diagrams have been worked vertically, there are 96-104 stitches on round. Now insert a marker thread in the middle of the 2 knit stitches mid on top of shoulder in each side. On next round work knit over knit and purl over purl, and on each side of marker thread on each shoulder decrease 2 stitches - read DECREASE TIP = 88-96 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6. Continue with rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Bind off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Cut and fasten the yarn. Sweater measures approx. 57-60 cm = 22 1/2”-23 5/8” from shoulder and down.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit
= purl
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over to make hole
= knit 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased)
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased)
= purl 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased)
= knit 3 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased)


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 212-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

Emily 05.02.2020 - 11:43:

Can you please help me me which No of Alpaka can be combined with Kid silk N.4. I have these 75GR from another design and woul like to knit this very lovely sweater....

DROPS Design 05.02.2020 kl. 14:33:

Dear Emily, your DROPS store will give you all personnal advices and tips , please contact them either per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

Anne Larsen 28.01.2020 - 19:01:

Fantastisk, med endnu en model i størrelse XS 😊

Janka 21.01.2020 - 09:27:

Wzór mi się bardzo podoba, szkoda tylko, że jest zrobiony z dwóch nitek. Czy jest możliwość zrobienia tego swetra z samej Alpaci?

DROPS Design 22.01.2020 kl. 17:28:

Witaj Janko! Kid-Silk jest cieniuteńka, nada sweterkowi nieco puszystości, ale nie będzie go obciążać. Jeśli jednak chcesz użyć tylko Alpaki (1 nitka) najpierw wykonaj próbkę, dostosuj grubość drutów, tak aby próbka zgadzała się z próbką we wzorze. Pozdrawiamy!

Sabine 19.01.2020 - 18:15:

Die Wolle für diesen schönen Pullover habe ich schon. Wann wird die Anleitung veröffentlicht? Kann es kaum erwarten ihn zu stricken!

Lena Schön 13.01.2020 - 11:56:

Pink perfection

Jane 10.01.2020 - 19:44:

Can’t wait to knit this

Renata 28.12.2019 - 16:45:

Piękny. Czekam niecierpliwie na wzór.

Betina Kauer 21.12.2019 - 23:50:

Sehr schönes Modell, ich freue mich schon auf die Anleitung.

Maria Carr 14.12.2019 - 21:02:

Beautiful delicate pattern

Marleen 11.12.2019 - 21:54:

Lieflijk patroontje. Heerlijk voor koele zomerdagen. Ook in de zomer draag ik lange mouwen, want ik ben een koukleum.

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